3.8 Swap Thread

[skyy406]

Hi everyone,

I hope this is in the right place.

Yesterday I picked up a 3.8 from a 2004 Galant with 61k. I am planning on swapping it into my 1998 Avenger. I have already swapped in the 3.0 from an eclipse- but the timing belt shredded last week and well that's the end of that motor. I'm also going to swap in a 5 or 6 speed manual- Most likely a 5 speed from a early 90's daytona turbo as it has the same dimensions as my current a604 automatic and uses the same axles with the exception of a half/shaft.

I have already contacted Megasquirt as I will use their ECU in parallel with my stock ECU (A/C Gauges, Alternator, Fans- ect)- and convert to a Ford EDIS for ignition and timing.

For the engine guru's out there I would really appreciate some information. I haven't spent a lot of time looking over the engine, but is it a MIVEC? The reason I ask this is that the Megasquirt can control the MIVEC solenoids.

What type of ignition system does the Galant run- where is the crank
angle sensor (CAS) or distributor trigger wheel and what type is it
(Optical/LED Sensor? Hall Sensor? VR Sensor?)
I am pretty sure its an Optical/LED but I need to make sure

How many teeth/windows/slots and what orientation does the CAS, crank
trigger, and/or distributor wheel have? (any missing? all evenly spaced?)

Is the IAC an on/off, pulse width
modulated, thermal, or stepper type?

I really appreciate any help you guys can give me. I really love the 6g motors and you guys have some great cars on here.

Thanks,

Pete

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/31.jpg?t=1272059229

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Venge2.jpg

[bronxbombr]

nice whip.

[Boosted]

Why don't you use the 4G transmission from the Eclipse as it bolts up to the 3.8 motor?

[skyy406]

Why don't you use the 4G transmission from the Eclipse as it bolts up to the 3.8 motor?


The 4g transmission is a lot larger than the Daytona transmission- I really would rather not having to modify the frame. The Daytona transmission also bolts to the 3.8L. In fact a lot of transmissions bolt to the 6g motors. Several Hyundai 5-6speed transmissions too.

[infliction]

i think thats because mitsu made the hyundai transmissions ;)

umm.. the only real help im going to be is to let you know there werent any mivec 3.8 engines in 04. the galant only got mivec for the ralliart models in 07 and 09
so that'll cut down on headaches. .. also cut down on fun when driving.

[2002BlackDragon]

Has anyone ever put a 2007 3.8 Mivec into an 8G? Would it even be possible? That would be sexy as shit. And backed by a 5 speed too. hawtness!

[6g72lover]

Has anyone ever put a 2007 3.8 Mivec into an 8G? Would it even be possible? That would be sexy as shit. And backed by a 5 speed too. hawtness!

in this forum have one galant what have one 3.8l 5 speed

[2002BlackDragon]

Okay, i have no idea what the hell your saying. The translation is getting messed up somewhere.

[stvn_mj]

Spd_Frk is the one that is going to be running a 3.8 in his galant.

[6g72lover]

okay, i have no idea what the hell your saying. The translation is getting messed up somewhere.
no use traslator

[2002BlackDragon]

Really? I didnt know that Spd_Frk was using the 3.8 Mivec from a Ralliart. I wonder if he is running a 4g or 3g manual?

[stvn_mj]

I think he is using the non mivec and he will use the 3g tranny. Check his build thread for more info

[2002BlackDragon]

cool. Already ahve. I never realized that was the engine he was using. Good stuff.

[SPD_FRK]

I am running the Non-MIVEC 6g75 for a few reasons. MIVEC is nothing "special" other than the increased valve lift once MIVEC is kicked in. There is no advantage of changing when the MIVEC kicks in over what the factory has set it too.

The problem with the MIVEC engine is there are no aftermarket cams available for them yet, RPW was looking to produce them but last I heard they dropped that project for lack of demand. With the Non-MIVEC engine you can run a set of RPW cams for the 6g72 or 6g74 (both will fit right in), this also gives you an advantage for more lift and a better performing cam over what MIVEC could offer.

Engine management can be done with a piggyback unit such as an EManage or the MegaSquirt system. Though there is another alternative such as running a 2001+ Eclipse or Stratus ECU to do full engine management and tuning via ECUFlash.

The ignition system on the 6g75 (MIVEC or Non-MIVEC) is a COP (coil on plug) setup. The only way to control this ignition system to my knowledge currently is to run a full standalone engine management such as AEM. You can setup and run the 6g72 or 6g74 distributor on these engines as it will fit directly into the rear head just the same as the 6g72/74. You will need the 6g74 coolant crossover pipe in order to accomodate for the distributor location. You also need to replace the 6g75 reluctor wheel on the crankshaft with the corresponding 6g72/74 reluctor wheel depending on which distributor you use.


The IAC and stuff, don't even worry about that. The Throttle body on the 6g75 engines is a DBW (Drive By Wire) setup and you will want to swap out for the 6g72/74 TB and run the IAC and TPS from the 6g72/74.

The transmission from the 4th Gen Eclipse is a possibility to use, only if you really think a 6th gear will be "cool." The problem with the 6spd is the same as what the Evo guys have with them, they break. Get a 5spd from the Stratus or 2000-2005 Eclipse as they are a direct bolt up and will withstand the abuse. The internals of the Eclipse (possibly even the stratus) are practically identical to that of the 5spd Evo transmission. Only difference is the bell housing on the Evo due to the AWD portion of the drivetrain.

A lot of us who have built on the 6g72/74/75 engine platforms are not aware that any other transmissions bolt up to these blocks, so if you say that others do please shed some light on this...many out there would like to know.

[2002BlackDragon]

So what exactly is the benifit of going with the 75 over the 74?

[WhiteGalant]

3.8l vs. 3.5l

[SPD_FRK]

So what exactly is the benifit of going with the 75 over the 74?
It is 3.8 vs a 3.5, basically a bigger bore over the 6g74 with the same stroke. The biggest benefit of the 6g75 is the heads. The 6g75 heads have larger valves, and CC chambers, with flow numbers very comparable to the V8 LS6 heads (read exceptional for a V6 platform).

The 6g74 mated to the A/T would put down about 160-165 to the wheels, and the tq curve on the 6g74 peaks around 4000-4500RPMs. With the better flowing 6g75 heads the torque curve would be a bit better in the top end as well instead of hitting the "restriction" from limited flow charactoristics such as the 72/74s.

With the added displacement, I would imagine seeing stock numbers with the A/T around 190, with the 5-spd swap it is likely into the 200-210 area without a tune.

[skyy406]

A lot of us who have built on the 6g72/74/75 engine platforms are not aware that any other transmissions bolt up to these blocks, so if you say that others do please shed some light on this...many out there would like to know.

The engine bay of the Avenger and Sebring (1995-2000) is smaller than a Stratus and Eclipse. Therefore a stratus or Eclipse 5 speed requires modifying the frame.

I belong to www.aseclub.net. Really great A/S club. Anyway, we had a group of members get together and go after V6- 5pseed. They succeeded. They found that the Dodge Daytona Turbo A543 manual transmission is physically the same size as the a604 transmission. Both of the axles are direct swap in, with the exception of a 1/2 shaft.

So that is another option for you guys too!

That is the transmission that I am going to run.

I have a question. What type of sensor is the crank position sensor? VR, Hall, Optical/LED?

[SPD_FRK]

The engine bay of the Avenger and Sebring (1995-2000) is smaller than a Stratus and Eclipse. Therefore a stratus or Eclipse 5 speed requires modifying the frame.

I belong to www.aseclub.net. Really great A/S club. Anyway, we had a group of members get together and go after V6- 5pseed. They succeeded. They found that the Dodge Daytona Turbo A543 manual transmission is physically the same size as the a604 transmission. Both of the axles are direct swap in, with the exception of a 1/2 shaft.

So that is another option for you guys too!

That is the transmission that I am going to run.

I have a question. What type of sensor is the crank position sensor? VR, Hall, Optical/LED?
Ok, nvm about the 3rd Gen 5spd then. With that said, has anybody found the limit on the Daytona Transmissions? I can't really give any more advice specifically on the transmission unfortunately.

That option is out of the question for us, same reason as the 3rd Gen 5spd is out for you (frame modification).

Before you worry about the crank sensor, what ignition setup are you going to run? As noted above the only way to run the COP setup currently is with a full standalone, nothing else will operate the ignition system.

[skyy406]

I am going to run a Ford EDIS 6 Ignition system. It will work seamlessly with my new Megasquirt II

The Daytona transmission has been found to handle 300whp completely stock.


Picked up today:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/photo14-1.jpg

And I just ordered this!!!!

Aluminum bung for IAT Sensor

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/images/products/38npt-bung_a_med.jpg

12 Foot Megasquirt Wiring Harness

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/images/products/msharness12_med.jpg

Pre- Assembled Stimulator Board

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/images/products/msstim22-c_med.jpg

MegaSquirt-II Programmable EFI System PCB3.57

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/images/products/ms2357-c_med.jpg

DB9 6' Male/Female Straight thru cable for tuning and testing my MegaSquirt ECU

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/images/products/tunecable6_med.jpg

GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/images/products/iatwpiggy_med.jpg

Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w LC-1 & blue DB Digital Gauge

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/images/products/wb-dbb-3795_med.jpg

[keith6110]

Picked up today:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/photo14-1.jpg



You will love this welder. I have the exact one with the helmet lol. Only good things will come from this welder.

[qnz]

I love people doing uncommon projects. Good luck

[johnygezony]

I love people doing uncommon projects. Good luck

Yeah this is crazy !!! I hope everything works ! You would never think about someone using the old daytona's for their transmissions let alone anything else.

[skyy406]

So i removed the entire engine harness off the old 3.0 and basically there's just an engine and tranny in the engine bay now. I pulled off the lower intake manifold and discovered an obliterated valve in the front bank- center piston.

It's actually pretty badass. I'll have pics in a few days when I pull the head off.

Meaning, even though I only put like 10k on the car since its last Timing Belt- the age- 7+ years are what ruined it. Word to the wise, get it replaced every 5 years for sure.

Megasquirt will arrive tomorrow. Next week I am going to pick up my 5-speed transmssion and Ford EDIS 6 system.

Oh, can anyone send me some pics of what the accessory belt tensioner looks like and its location? The engine I bought doesn't have one, and that will cause problems for obvious reasons. I may be able to adapt the one from the 2.5 (prior to the 3.0) but I'd like some pics to confirm.

Thanks much!

[skyy406]

Here's an update as of 5/2/10

Removed the Radiator and Fans

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/RemoveRad.jpg

Top of engine mostly Dismantled

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Topengine.jpg

This is why you replace your Timing Belt every 75k or 5 years

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/pistonshole.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/pistonhole.jpg

Rear header clearance (3.0)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/rearheaderclearence.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Rearheaderclearence2.jpg

Heads off

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/30block.jpg

Where I cut the duals off. Notice how close the pipes are when the exhaust is on the car. I then bolted the headers and the downpipes to the 3.8 and lined them up. They are way off. Seems that the 3.8L has a different pattern for the exhaust to go. Unfortunately, I am most likely going to have to hack up my rear header and build one. I will take up the mocked up rear header to a local shop and have them make me a 1 off rear long tube header :naughty: I'll probably have them do the front too once its running.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/DualsUnder.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/38headers.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/FrontheaderDP.jpg

2.5L Crank pulley- I don't think it's supposed to look like that... And also timing cover is all torn up.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/badcrankpulley.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Badcrankpulley2.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/timingcover.jpg

Many thanks to doggs330. He supplied me with a A/C compressor. It bolts right to the 3.8L bracket!!!!!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Aircon.jpg

The A/C pulley will have to be shimmed or i will have to use spacers to push it out a little bit so it lines up with the 2.5L tensionor and crank pulley.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/AirConpulley.jpg

The 2.5L alternator and Power steering tensioner bolts right up. I will have to modify the bracket for the alternator- but not very much and certainly not to the extreme that CMC did his. No welding is needed- just some slight massaging with a dremel and all the bolts line up.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Alternatorandtensioner.jpg

That's all for now. Wednesday I am going to pick up my 5-speed transmission....:woot:

[skyy406]

Pulling motor

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/pullingmotor.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/pullingmotor2.jpg

Deep in thought

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/petethinking.jpg

Engine out

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/engineout.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/engineout2.jpg

5-speed transmission from a 1994 Dodge Shadow

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/5-speed2.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/5-speed3.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/5speed.jpg

The stock Avenger engine mount bolts right up! Thank God, that would have been a major pain in the ass. I can bolt up the stock 2.5L A/C bracket to the 3.8 No problem, just needs about an inch worth of spacing away from the block. Super easy!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0679.jpg

Picked up a new angle grinder today :naughty:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0678.jpg

I tore down the 3.0 today too. All kinds of metal bits and crap in the oil pan

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0674.jpg

Here are 2 great pics of the damage to the piston. Hole smashed clean through the piston.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0676.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0677.jpg

[infliction]

hey if those rods are in good shape it wouldnt be a bad idea to throw them in the 3.8
idk what you plan on doing with that engine once its in. but from what ive seen the rods in the older engines are thicker but all the other measurements are the same.

[SPD_FRK]

Looks like fun so far man, best of luck with everything.


hey if those rods are in good shape it wouldnt be a bad idea to throw them in the 3.8
idk what you plan on doing with that engine once its in. but from what ive seen the rods in the older engines are thicker but all the other measurements are the same.
The 6g72 rods I don't believe fit into the 6g75. The Rod journals are a different size if I remember correctly. If I am wrong and they do fit, throwing in a set of 72 rods (which are shorter), will only drop the compression ratio down quite a bit and he would lose power. The stock 75 rods are good for moderate N/A or light boosted applications, but the best thing is to swap in a set of 6g74 rods as they are direct drop in rods and are thicker than the 75s.

[skyy406]

Looks like fun so far man, best of luck with everything.


The 6g72 rods I don't believe fit into the 6g75. The Rod journals are a different size if I remember correctly. If I am wrong and they do fit, throwing in a set of 72 rods (which are shorter), will only drop the compression ratio down quite a bit and he would lose power. The stock 75 rods are good for moderate N/A or light boosted applications, but the best thing is to swap in a set of 6g74 rods as they are direct drop in rods and are thicker than the 75s.


Your right! Look:

6G74 Rods
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee207/HD-SPDFRK/Engine%20Builds/032008035-1.jpg

6G75 Rods
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee207/HD-SPDFRK/Engine%20Builds/032008034.jpg

I also did some work today

Made some spacers with my new Angle Grinder!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/ACspacers.jpg

Test fitting I have to slide them up a bit

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/ACspacers3.jpg

Look how nicely everything lines up now!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/ACliningup.jpg

About 2mm of space between the A/C bracket and the Oil filter housing.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/ACbracketdistance.jpg

[keith6110]

nice progress man! Love the pictures, keep them coming. Obviously great custom work. Not many people can do what you're doing.

[skyy406]

nice progress man! Love the pictures, keep them coming. Obviously great custom work. Not many people can do what you're doing.

Thanks man! I'm new to this fabrication stuff actually. I just teach myself as I go along and it works out pretty good.

This is a really fun swap!

[skyy406]

Here's an update!

Found a crack in my a543, going to have it welded :cry:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0780.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0781.jpg

Installed my new shifter!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0777.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0776.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0775.jpg

CMC here's your pictures of the alternator bracket. I had to grind down a portion of it and also elongate the hole that the bolt goes through.

On the left is a spare bracket i had- untouched

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0768.jpg

The top one was modified. I merely enlarged the hole slightly.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0767.jpg

I had to elongate the hole a lot to get it to line up properly.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0766.jpg

The bottom one was modified. I had to grind off about 1/4 inch of material and also angle it to line up with the head.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0765.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0763.jpg

Notice a washer.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0761.jpg

I could have probably not ground the bracket so much but it was difficult to get the bolt to line up properly with the head and also have the washers sit flush against the bracket and the head. Either way- its strong and fits great!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0760.jpg

Alternator, tensioner and crank pulley line up!!! Yay!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0757.jpg

These stupid mother fuckers. The damn ball joints are seized into the hub/knuckle... WTF both sides. I am going to have to take them to work and have them remove them with the press. Also the passenger side axle is also stuck in the hub. What a mother fucker I tell you. I hate these little stupid things that prevent this project from going smoothly. Also the steering rack end balljoints were also seized into the hub. I had to cut the drivers side one off- but I was able to get the passenger one off the steering rack.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0756.jpg

A604 and A543 side by side.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0755.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0754.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0753.jpg

An empty engine bay

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0752.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0751.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0750.jpg

[skyy406]

Today's update.

Removed brake pedal assembly.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/brakepedalout.jpg

That hole is where I had my power wire running through the fire-wall. You can see the 3 indentations in the panel. THat is where the factory would have punched out the metal for the master cylinder. Aggravatingly, it is impossible to install the clutch pedal assembly without a hole for the bolt to go through. So I looked at those indents and proceeded to take my drill and dremel to them.

Unfortunately, once I had the holes all punched out I installed the clutch pedal assembly. To my surprise those indents are about 1/2" off. So I had to drill more metal out- which was a pain.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/firewall.jpg

Clutch Master cylinder in!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/clutchmastercylinder.jpg

Resivour in too! I'll take it back off on thursday and paint it all nice like!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/mastercylinderresivour.jpg

Console back in- just waiting on the shift boot.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/console.jpg

Now that, is a beautiful thing :jump:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Pedals.jpg

[skyy406]

Does the MIVEC engine come with an Aluminum or Steel flywheel?

[skyy406]

Lots to report today

MIVEC Heads Came in

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0829.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0826.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0827.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0824.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0825.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0828.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0823.jpg

Valve covers are amazingly clean.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0847.jpg

Cam Sensor cover- is severely damaged. The Box they came in was torn to shreds and very poorly handled. They weigh over 80 pounds together and it is likely that someone dropped them during shipping. Also, they are missing the cam gears and who knows what else. I am going to have to buy an Eclipse manual so I can see exactly what parts are missing for the MIVEC actuation.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0844.jpg

All sorts of scratches and damage. Who the fuck pried these off with a damn bear claw?

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0841.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0843.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0836.jpg

Notice how poorly the aluminum is cast here. In many of the water or oil journals- there is bits of metal left over.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0834.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0835.jpg

Two bent valves in the rear head.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0840.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0839.jpg

The heads sure are more complex than my 3.0 ones.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0845.jpg

Here are some interesting pictures. The 3.8L lower intake manifold is nearly 0.75" wider than the 2.5/3.0- Same height though.

3.8L on right

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0857.jpg

The 3.8L block is 1/2 an inch taller than the 3.0 block

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0863.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0862.jpg

It is also the exact same length

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0860.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0861.jpg

But, it is around 1/2 inch wider

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0865.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0866.jpg

My exhaust flange for the rear header i'm making came today!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/flange-1.jpg

Also my Front Long Tube header came. Rippmods makes good stuff.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/testfitlongtube2.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/testfitlongtube.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/testfitlongtube3.jpg

Look at the difference!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/headercomparo.jpg

The ports on the long-tube header are much bigger too. Really a good free flowing design. Oddly enough you can see how clean my XIRacing header looks (bottom) I guess I had a better gasket than they did or it was sealed better.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0818.jpg

What is this? I'll have to take it off to attach the flywheel.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0873-2.jpg

To my dismay. The metal piece that came from the 3.8L does not work with the a543. The bottom piece from the 3.0 Does- and I cant find the top piece :roll: Also, The metal piece that came with the 3.8L and the one from the 3.0 Are different thicknesses. I was ready to drop in the 3.8L and a543 and begin fabbing up my tranny mounts, but I did not want to start without advice from you guys. The difference in metal thickness is minute but I do not want anything to go wrong with the pressure plate or clutch or any of that stuff. I am going to drop in the motor and tranny bolted together so that I can make precise tranny mounts. If I make the mounts with the wrong metal piece they will be slightly off and that is something I don't want to have to do twice.

3.8L piece. It does not line up on the bottom at all

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0869.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0870.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0871.jpg

Here's the bottom piece from the 3.0- it lines up very well. Unfortunately I don't remember what the top piece looked like and I don't remember if it was broken in 2 or there are in fact 2 pieces. I also don't know how much space there has to be for the clutch and stuff. Or rather, I don't know how much needs to be covered.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0872.jpg

[skyy406]

Did a little work today

There are 2 bolts on the rear of the oil pan that stick out a bit. The tranny would hit the left one- so I had to shave off some of the hole.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/oilpanbolt.jpg

and shaved

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/oilpanbolt2.jpg

I'll have to shave off that "ear" off the oil pan too so that the tranny---> engine bracket will fit

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/ears1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/ears2.jpg

Front "ear"

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/ears.jpg

Wierdly the 3.0 has 2 bolt holes for the bracket

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/bracketholes30.jpg

But the 3.8L does not- the other one was like not finished or something. I suppose I could weld on a bunch of metal and then tap it for a bolt. Do I really need to? Is one bolt enough?

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/bracketholes38.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/bracketon.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/bracketon3.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/bracketon2.jpg

The starter fits just fine- without the bracket in. And the headers don't come any where near the starter which is nice. I have to grind down the bracket that sits behind the starter though. I worked on it for about 30 minutes but didn't get it finished. I prefered not to grind down the starter it self. It'll fit flush and perfect once i'm done.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/headerandstarteron.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/headerandstarteron4.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/headerandstarteron3.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/headerandstarteron2.jpg

3.8L and a543 bolted together.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/engineandtrannyconnected.jpg

Hopefully I can get all the brackets done wednesday night and then drop the engine in on thursday to make the tranny mounts

[Ruslik]

nice work man
good luck

[Bring380GT]

Engine management can be done with a piggyback unit such as an EManage or the MegaSquirt system. Though there is another alternative such as running a 2001+ Eclipse or Stratus ECU to do full engine management and tuning via ECUFlash.

The ignition system on the 6g75 (MIVEC or Non-MIVEC) is a COP (coil on plug) setup. The only way to control this ignition system to my knowledge currently is to run a full standalone engine management such as AEM. You can setup and run the 6g72 or 6g74 distributor on these engines as it will fit directly into the rear head just the same as the 6g72/74. You will need the 6g74 coolant crossover pipe in order to accomodate for the distributor location. You also need to replace the 6g75 reluctor wheel on the crankshaft with the corresponding 6g72/74 reluctor wheel depending on which distributor you use.


So could you run the bigger 75 injectors 310cc I believe? on the stock eclipse/galant/stratus ecu with out a tune? or would it run not so good? And the only thing really needing to swap in this motor is the distributor, reluctor wheel and coolant crossover pipe? I think I might look into doing another build :) then I would buy myself some of those RPW headers :)

[M-Rod]

So could you run the bigger 75 injectors 310cc I believe? on the stock eclipse/galant/stratus ecu with out a tune? or would it run not so good? And the only thing really needing to swap in this motor is the distributor, reluctor wheel and coolant crossover pipe? I think I might look into doing another build :) then I would buy myself some of those RPW headers :)

Crankshaft position sensor is also different.

[SPD_FRK]

So could you run the bigger 75 injectors 310cc I believe? on the stock eclipse/galant/stratus ecu with out a tune? or would it run not so good? And the only thing really needing to swap in this motor is the distributor, reluctor wheel and coolant crossover pipe? I think I might look into doing another build :) then I would buy myself some of those RPW headers :)
If you swap the 6g75 engine and run from the stock ECU, without making necessary adjustments it will run lean. The same issue happens when you swap in the 6g74, but not to the severity as it would with the 3.8L engine. It is "vital" IMHO that you swap in a flashable ECU, or tune with an Emanage to get the AFR corrected. Besides the AFR issues, timing is another issue that the stock 6g72 ECU will not account for.

If you are not running a full standalone system, then you will need to swap over the distributor. The distributor is sufficient to run N/A even high compression builds like 11:1 setups (proven thoroughly by boostzealot's many builds). If you go turbo, the distributor will be safe up to around 10psi, beyond that you will want to look into upgrading the ignition system (which can be done with an MSD setup). Now, swapping in the distributor you also need to swap over the 72 reluctor wheel, and crankshaft position sensor.

You will need to swap in the 74 coolant crossover pipe, and also the pipe that connects to the water pump. The 75 coolant pipe that connects to the water pump has a small tab that will interfere with the transmission bellhousing. This can be trimmed and it will fit fine. Another note on the 74 coolant crossover pipe is that the coolant pipes run to the heater core are mounted differently. They do not both exit the rear towards the firewall like the 72's. You will need these pipes, or modify the existing to fit (one comes off the top of the crossover pipe and needs to make a 90* bend to the firewall).

The 75 fuel rails are returnless, which we cannot use. You can modify the 75 rails, but it looks like a "hack job" and also can become a restriction for fuel flow (resulting in lean/rich in the front or rear bank, not equal). If you run the Non-MIVEC engine we know the 74 lower intake manifold is a direct swap and this will allow you to run our return style fuel rails, and upgrade later if needbe to larger billet rails from the 3000 GT platform.

The alternator brackets are also different. If you have the 75 alternator this will not affect you. If you use the 72 alternator you need to swap in the 74 passenger side engine mount, as well as the alternator bracket. You can modify the 72 alternator bracket to fit, though I am unsure how that will affect the belt length if you are running the P/S and A/C system.



If you need more information, check out galanttuners.com as the thread there pretty much covers everything including the ECU stuff. Also, Club3g.com has quite a bit of information on this swap as well.

[Bring380GT]

Good info! all though I'm running a 74 engine right now with out a tune and it does not run lean it runs a 13.3 most of the time along with some richer levels on the wideband so..

[skyy406]

Update today.

Let me just say. The engine hoist stabilizer is an absolute must have. I was able to tilt the engine/transmission to perfection. Literally was able to drop the motor in, in about 4 minutes once it was in the air.

Amazing useful tool. I have to buy a transmission jack as I need to be able to rotate the engine slightly and also tilt it down slightly. Did a pretty good job though centering it with some blocks of wood though for now until I pick one up.

I am amazed how much smaller the a543 really is in the engine bay. Looks great in there like it was made for this engine bay. Much more so than the a604.

Next step is making the mounts.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/droppedin.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/droppedin5.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/droppedin4.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/droppedin3.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/droppedin2.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/enginemount.jpg

I have a pretty good idea where to make 2 of the mounts for the transmission using existing threaded holes. Except the front transmission mount. The a604 has some tapped holes right in the side of the bell housing and lots of extra aluminum to support weight. The a543 does not. I am a little worried what to do for this mount. Any ideas or suggestions would be great.

a604

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/autotransmountholes.jpg

a543

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/noholesfortransmounta543.jpg

Look at this pic. Where is it red is where the bolt holes should be. There looks to be a weak point in my opinion with that "hole" or gap between the outer bell housing and inner bell housing. I sure do wish someone with an a543 already in their car would take some pics for me of that front mount ;)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/5-speed2-2.jpg

Here's my idea for the rear mount. Basically I will be using the stock transmission mount and bolting or welding a metal extension to the bracket. I will unbolt 2 large bolts from the transmission (looks like differential cover) and then sandwich the metal bracket between longer bolts. I'm using 1/2" thick solid steel for the bracket. Should be overly strong enough. It will be shaped like a 7 of sorts.

Before:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/transmount2.jpg

After:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/transmount2copy.jpg

The front mount also seems to be an easy mount.

There are 2 threaded holes right on top of the transmission- right below where the main transmission mount is located at:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/transmount-boltholes.jpg

And many hours of diligent searching I found the mount made by DMS right here on ASEC. Exactly what I was going to do anyway. Weld a bracket to an existing mount that I got from an Eclipse.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/trannymount-maincopy.jpg

This bracket that goes from the engine to the transmission sure has been a PITA. I can't seem to get the starter to really sit flush against the a543. Nearly flush but not perfect. I know all I have to do is grind more metal off, its just time consuming- this metal is very hard.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/transbracket1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/transbracket2.jpg

[Bring380GT]

Wow man! looking good:thumbup:

[jimmy_o2]

too good

[Bring380GT]

With alot of thinking and SPD's Info/build and this guys build I'm going to buy a 6G75 and hope for some good numbers with my current 74 mods and a tune, also I think I'm going to have to have to get that intake manifold Boostzealot had made(seeing that these heads flow so well), already have the lower part of the Xg350 mani and the VH45 throttle body, also think I might pick up RPW headers for it too!

[skyy406]

With alot of thinking and SPK's Info/build and this guys build I'm going to buy a 6G75 and hope for some good numbers with my current 74 mods and a tune, also I think I'm going to have to have to get that intake manifold Boostzealot had made(seeing that these heads flow so well), already have the lower part of the Xg350 mani and the VH45 throttle body, also think I might pick up RPW headers for it too!

Yeah! Glad to hear it!!!!

[Bring380GT]

Yeah! Glad to hear it!!!!

Inspiration both ways :icon_mrgreen:

[M-Rod]

Inspiration both ways :icon_mrgreen:

Agreed. Seeing things happen makes me want to get off my ass and step up to the big displacement group.

[skyy406]

Well after a lot of planning a ton of thinking. I have decided to utilize the factory mount on the passenger side and I made a Bracket that will be bolted to the Mount and then bolted to the transmission.

I decided that I wanted to use as much factory equipment as possible from here on out. I want to try and limit the amount of custom parts needed that I couldn't make myself. And being that my welder cannot weld aluminum that thick- I didn't really have many options. I bought hardened studs that will be inserted into bolt holes that I will drill out tomorrow or Sunday for the mount. I also have a very clever Idea for the rear mount.

After looking over pictures of the 5-speed turbo venge (DMS did not use a bobble-strut) I can duplicate their mount but make it much more simple. After the main transmission mount is done- i'll work on the rear mount.

Also I have yet to gusset the mount which I will do also.

Here's the factory mount:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Transmissionmountmain6.jpg

Here's the bracket. It's made out of 1/4" solid steel. I still have to trim it a bit- and also drill all the holes. But I wanted you all to see what I am up to.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/TransmissionMountMain.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Transmissionmountmain5.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/transmissionmountmain4.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/TransmissionMountmain3.jpg

Here it is just laying there so you can get an idea of what I am doing with it.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/TransmissionMountmain2.jpg

I also encountered a problem. First off I couldn't fit 1/4" steel between the tranny mount and the transmission without modifying the transmission. So I decided to create the space. I made a 1/4" spacer on the passenger's side main engine mount which lowered the entire engine 1/4"- fit's much better now.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/EngineMount1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/EngineMount2.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/EngineMountSpacer.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Enginemount3.jpg

Welding by the way... is A LOT OF FUN!!!

[Galantfan88]

This is some really good stuff here guys, and SPK is a freakin awesome guy. He takes time to really give out some good info and help others with projects that hasnt even been done like the 6g75 swap. This makes me really want to get the v6 G and do a project like this. Keep up the good work man I hope everything turns out ok and SPK I can not wait to see that baby start up.

[skyy406]

Thanks for the props man! That's one of the main reasons I am posting my build to a bunch of different forums. You'd be surprised how members viewing my thread will get inspiration to get off their ass and do things they wanted to do anyway but were procrastinating. :lol:

[M-Rod]

Thanks for the props man! That's one of the main reasons I am posting my build to a bunch of different forums. You'd be surprised how members viewing my thread will get inspiration to get off their ass and do things they wanted to do anyway but were procrastinating. :lol:

No kidding! I think it was within a week of reading, I hammered out the 75 swap. Funny thing is I'm usually the world's largest procrastinator.

[skyy406]

Update

I still really can't get the bracket to sit completely flush with the tranny mount. It rubs on the transmission and I don't like that. I can't get the engine/trans completely perfectly level and I want to. I need to lower the engine about the thickness of a washer. So that's what I am going to do and see how that works.

I trimmed the bracket a lot today and also drilled the three 1/2" holes for the new studs. Those bolts that you see below are not the finished product those are just so I could mock everything up.

Also.

My welder doesn't seem to get hot enough. The welds aren't to my liking. I am not getting complete penetration through the 1/4" steel. My welder is completely capable of that and I know the problem. Every single outlet in the house I am doing the swap at are 10 amp outlets. I need at least 20amp to weld metal this thick. No biggie. I welded some gusset's onto the bracket for added strength and tomorrow the bracket will be welded by a shop- to keep my mind at ease.

I'll mock up the rear mount and then have it welded by the shop also as it will be made out of 1/2" steel in some areas. I didn't bother to clean up the welds as they will be re-welded and when they are done I'll smooth everything out and make it pretty. I think I'll paint the bracket when its finished too.

Test fit before trimming and gusset's:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/P7.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0910.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0911.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0912.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0913.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0914.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0915.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/P3.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/P6.jpg

This drill is amazing. With sharp bits it has enough torque to plow through the steel like butter.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/103_0916.jpg

[mrg7243]

http://www.club3g.com/forum/3g-eclipse-gt-gts-specific/136385-3-8-mivec-avenger.html

Here is the guy's build thread over on club3g. He said he forgot about updating here, but it is an amazing build, and a great read.

[skyy406]

wow sorry for not updating the thread. Heres the newest pics. 3.8L is in. I rebuilt the A543. Mounts are solid, shifter works great- finishing up the wiring!

Oh boy that looks purdy!

My garage is starting to clean up a little bit now that im putting the car back together :lol:

Getting closer and closer every day guys!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/1-1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/2-1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/3-1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/4-1.jpg

[Galantfan88]

Looking real good man, keep it up and more morrrre pix.

[finald8ta]

holly snap bro looks great, ur not that far from me at all,

[M-Rod]

can't wait to see this run. Keep pushing!

[gtx]

Looking good. What fan setup are you running?

[skyy406]

Those are Flex-a-Lite fans from a 90-94 Eclipse. I made the shroud fit.

[gtx]

Those are Flex-a-Lite fans from a 90-94 Eclipse. I made the shroud fit.
Nice, I like the space you have there with them.

[skyy406]

Did some work today.

Unfortunately I didn't have the forsight to mount the headers on the engine when it was out of the car, with my new rear header bolted on too. I tried to install my alternator and discovered that it didnt fit! So I had to make it fit. I had to remove some aluminum from the case. I am fairly sure that the area i removed material from wasnt load bearing as it was pretty thin.

Because of the close proximity to the header, I also decided to wrap them. The alternator isn't touching the header, but it is very close. Hopefully it won't fail any time soon.

The headers are coated and also wrapped. Im really excited if the header wrap actually does what the package claimed...a 50% reduction in engine bay heat.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/Wrapped2.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/rapped.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/wrapped3.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/wrapped6.jpg

I used some thick copper wire to hold down the wrap on the large section. I need to find some metal straps or zip ties that are at least 14" long or so. I know that the copper works because I had it on my bike for several months and it never came apart- it actually became a lot more rigid with the heating/cooling of the exhaust.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/wrapped5.jpg

I also installed the A/C with belt- wired it up and alternator belt.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/altinstalled.jpg

The alternator is newish, I bought it over 2 years ago, but it only saw like 1,000 miles. Anyway, it has a 6 rib pulley on it when the belt only has 5. As you can see from the picture it is not touching the tensioner 100%. I think tomorrow i'll scoot it over a little bit so that it has more contact with that tensioner.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/Belts.jpg

In addition, this wire comes from my Megasquirt and is supposed to connect to the CPS. It has a gray jacket on the outside, some silver metally wire stuff on the inside and then another wire inside of that. I am not exactly sure how to wire this up to the crank sensor. The crank sensor has a blue and a green wire coming off of it. How can I tell how to wire it up? Also below you will see the wiring diagram for the sensor, and I guess I have to split the wire apart and then solder the connections. Is there any way I can test the Sensor and see which wire is the ground on the sensor?

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/reluctorwire.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/wiringdiagram.jpg

Also if anyone was wondering, the front header is a RIPPMODS header for a 2006 Eclipse GT, and the rear header is a custome longtube header. Boostzealot had it made for me when I sent him a mock header that I designed

[skyy406]

What im working on:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/cutout.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/cutout2.jpg

Hood scoop from a 1969 Boss 429 mustang. It will be molded flush to the hood and 100% functional.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/cutout3.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/cutout5.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/cutout6.jpg

[skyy406]

Did some work today.

I went to the junkyard, found an Avenger and removed the interior drivers side fuse box and modified it for my Ignition On stuff. I also developed a way to mate wire to the metal tabs as shown

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/wiring6.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/wiring7.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/Wiring1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/Wiring2-1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/Wiring3-1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/wiring4-1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/wiring5.jpg

[ichbindasgehirn]

I'm pumped to see how this whole thing is gonna turn out dude!

[skyy406]

Whoa haven't posted here in like a year. Sorry guys.

Long story short, got the engine running. I have a brand new interior, suspension, brakes... ect...

Once I get my AFR issue fixed I can start tuning!!!!

http://youtu.be/66w6z4I4ijo

[dknight3]

amazing

[OMEGA PHX]

Saw your vids on youtube awesome build

[skyy406]

Car is finally driviable.

Has awesome low end torque. Doesn't make much power after 4k rpm.

Have a dyno tune session scheduled for sunday morning!!!

Fuck it feels great to drive the car!

http://youtu.be/T82GcoiPwJw

[Dominicano]

congrats it sounds great!

[Rach3T8G]

Nice!

[#1GALANTFAN]

It's people like you that give me hope lol. And you should totally take pics of how the dyno went and of your car and send them here!

[ALCALA]

Awesome. What was your overall cost on the swap?

[skyy406]

Overall cost? ugh.... I don't really want to think about it. I'd say though that over the last 2 years I have spend around 30k on the swap including tools. Mind you the swap consisted of much more than just a 6g75.

Here's the finished product

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Hotness1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/Avenger%20Swap/Engine1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/4-2.jpg

[johnygezony]

Naice!

[Black8GV6]

Dayum!

[mysticj]

I'll hit it sideways...











.the car. Can't wait for the dyno/tune.

[Isaurio]

^^^ JAJA. x2 on that.

[M-Rod]

Congrats!

[skyy406]

Dyno day!

103 degrees outside!

98% humidity outside!!!

Melted my ASD relay! Slight hold up.

Car performed well.

Mustang Dyno!

Best run was 192hp and 256tq at the wheels.

Still has some tip-in issues that will get resolved. Otherwise it screams. Kinda falls on it's face after 4k rpm. Just stops making hp. Have lots more tuning to do...

Those numbers on +40 timing! WEIRD!

Odd car to say the least.

That's me in the gray shirt!

Got my new plate too :) 6G75

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/IMG_0430.jpg

http://youtu.be/HMDuxlYirXs

http://youtu.be/IBrs2w4OG-g

[#1GALANTFAN]

Lookin good dude!!

[foxbrand]

impressive to say the least, I could only guess your not using MIVEC just yet (due to the power drop off at 4000 rpm), these wold be impressive numbers for any other SOHC 24 valve 6g7 engine
still, 192 whp and 256 wtq is quite good for any engine below 4000 rpm, even in that high heat and humidity (I've drag raced in near 120 degree heat at around 75% humidity, nobody was doing good at the track that day), this is truely impressive, I would dare to say with ported heads, lower intake manifold and upper intake manifold, we could be looking at 200+ whp below 4000 rpm

[sexy 8G]

Does the 6g75 bolt up to the 8g transmission

[2002BlackDragon]

Sexy!!!

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[Isaurio]

What Maf sensor you have? At 4k how ur afr looks. At 4k+ and 70+ load u should be less than 30 on timing not 40. If you want to make more power. Lower timing. Increase fuel. And check your spark plug gap.

Project looks good.


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[skyy406]

Hey guys. Bought a house and got married. Haven't done much to the car in a year. The last time I drove it, it was misfiring badly and degraded from there. Now that it has sat for a year I fired it up and it was running on 3 cylinders. I got a new (used) EDIS module, and it didn't make a difference. I also broke the Slave cylinder bracket, so it doesn't move either.

I pulled the entire engine harness yesterday and am going to rewire, check every wire for bad connection. Then I am going to clean the injectors by hand. Maybe they are clogged from sitting a year? I dunno.

I want to sell the car, but It feels good working in it again.

[skyy406]

Also, fixed the timing issue. Spark was WAYYY off. I wouldn't doubt that the engine makes 250whp now. Pulls like crazy till 6300 or so.

Looking at my sig brings back such good memories!

Got rid of the Acura for a 2005 Dodge Ram SRT10 Quad cab and swapped in a T56 and just installed long-tube headers.

My CBR1000RR magically transformed into an engagement ring.

Inherited a 1973 Black on Black Lincoln Continental Mark IV with 55k miles that is perfect.

Leased a 2014 Nissan Maxima as my daily...

Been a busy year lol.