Car Bogging down under boost?

[IceDouTGaLanT]

I was on my way to work today, doing about 40 on the ramp to get on the freeway. When i accelerated under boost, i felt the car hesitate like it was bogging on me so i let off. Right after i got a code P0303, maybe the plugs?

[03-Galant-ES]

3rd cylinder misfire...I would def check plugs and wires. Also if you have an AFR gauge how were the numbers and do a compression check as well on all cylinders.

[kolio]

how many miles you got on it ron? plugs, coils, and wires replace them if needed

[IceDouTGaLanT]

84K on the car, about 10K after the turbo with these NGK plugs/wires. That might be it, i'll pull them this weekend, never swapped them before should be a fun lesson haha.

[Galantfan88]

Check your plugs first to see what condition each one is in. Its very simple to take the spark plugs out and put back in. Just make sure everything goes back the way it was....VERY IMPORTANT!!!

[GOOSEY2099]

Sounds like what i was having where the spark was being blown out. Change the plugs.

[9G]

If those doesn't work, check the head light fluids. Those could be a ish to do. good luck :p

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Now my car started to bog down so bad, i cant drive it anymore. Also at idle its getting VERY lean 16.1 etc. If i rev up, it feels like its in limp mode.

I removed the plugs, this is the result. think its just the plugs or something more? I have to order some tube-seals.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/th_IMG_0991.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/?action=view&current=IMG_0991.mp4)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/th_IMG_0992.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/?action=view&current=IMG_0992.mp4)

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Anybody?

[qnz]

needs new tube seals. plug #3 looks like it ran a little hotter than the rest. and youre missing the tip of spark plug #4. lol

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Yeah #4 is missing the tip, wondered how that happened. Tube seals are only sold only at dealer? or can i get them from pepboys.

[fatal1]

you can get them at your local store...they come with the valve cover gasket kit. i dont think i payed more then $15 for my v6 when i changed everything.

[Stewi]

If the tip of #4 is missing it could have burned up from being so hot. When the tuner killed my old motor on the dyno, all 4 plugs were toasted, no electrode or anything left, it looked like a screw.

It might be as simple as changing the plugs and/or coils. When the car was running good did it normally run rich? My car ran rich like 12.8-13.5 while in vacuum and I killed a set of NKG BPR7ES's in about 150 miles. I was misfiring, the car wouldnt idle, at one point it wouldnt even start, new plugs, all problems went away. You may want to also try going down one level to a colder plug too.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Thanks for the info guys, Ill pick up the gasket this week. Stewi the car did run rich, 12.4-14.3. I had these current plugs for about 2+ years or so. In the last couple months, i did notice misfiring, but just shock it off. I guess this was the issue all along then. Yeah ill try 1 level down plugs aswell. Also its better to replace all 4 plugs? compared to just 1 or 2?

[Stewi]

Yeah always replace them as a set.

[seth98esT]

2 years is a long time for plugs in a turbo car. Replace them with a set of NGK plugs one step colder and correctly gapped.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Currently im using the NGK colder Plugs BKR7E, So go down to the BKR8E? The gap is .039 -.043 correct?

Since were on this topic, how many miles do you guys usually replace your plugs?

[kolio]

since they are soo cheap, usually do it twice a year

[Stewi]

Thats a big gap. I gap mine around .030

[qnz]

Mine are gapped to .028

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Thanks guys, i'll cut down the gap then.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Picked up the gasket kit, this is all i should need as in seals correct?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/photo-17.jpg

[sponcar]

I would say gapped at .028 dude

[Stewi]

Yeah Ron thats the gasket. Piece of advice, it might be a PITA removing the old gasket, if it is, just take your time and get it ALL OUT. Get some gray RTV silicone and put a few little dabs of it in the gasket groove on the valve cover, it will help hold the gasket in place when you flip the valve cover over to install.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Thanks for the tip stewi, 1st time removing the valve cover. figured this is something easy i could tackle instead take it to the shop. Thanks for the help guys!

[Stewi]

Thanks for the tip stewi, 1st time removing the valve cover. figured this is something easy i could tackle instead take it to the shop. Thanks for the help guys!

yeah the last SOHC valve cover I removed from an 8g was GoldGalant-REBORN's car. It took me about 45 minutes to get all the old pieces of valve cover gasket out of the valve cover because it was stuck, I ened up using a small flathead screw driver and a torch to heat it up.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

After 30 mins I got the valve cover off! You were right about it being stuck on, luckly walmart was 24hrs and I got a rubber mallet. Few questions:

1. Is it better just to install the spark plugs while the valve cover is off already? Should I use any grease on the threads?

2. Tube seals, do I just put dabs of rtv so they stay in place? My current seals, two are on nice and tight, while the other two were just loose which explains the oil on this plugs.

[Stewi]

After 30 mins I got the valve cover off! You were right about it being stuck on, luckly walmart was 24hrs and I got a rubber mallet. Few questions:

1. Is it better just to install the spark plugs while the valve cover is off already? Should I use any grease on the threads?

2. Tube seals, do I just put dabs of rtv so they stay in place? My current seals, two are on nice and tight, while the other two were just loose which explains the oil on this plugs.

1. It doesnt matter when you install the plugs. I would use some anti-sieze on the threads of the plugs and dont over torque them.

2. Yeah you can put a few dabs of RTV between the tube seal and the valve cover to hold them in place when you install it.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Do I let the rtv fully dry before putting the cover back on?

[Stewi]

No just apply the rtv, push the gasket into place and the tube seals into place, wait like 10 minutes and install it.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

So just updating the thread, after i replaced the plugs/gaskets the car started to act normal. The bogging went away, until today. 1/2 throttle 55mp, the wide band went very lean and car bogged, which then i let off the peddle and re-applied and went away. couple miles later, the car went rich and bogged. I have no idea what's going on, ill see on my ride home tonight what happens. Ill re-pull the plugs, but any other idea's whats going on

Video of the initial start up after new plugs:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/th_IMG_1298.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/?action=view&current=IMG_1298.mp4)

[seth98esT]

Sure you didnt blow off an intercooler pipe? If not, and no vacuum leaks, you need to check for spark on each plug wire.

[Stewi]

Sure you didnt blow off an intercooler pipe? If not, and no vacuum leaks, you need to check for spark on each plug wire.

+1

Another thought is the tune. I have a few bad spots in my base map that the car bogs down and if I let off it and get on it again its gone.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

I checked all the connections & clamps on all pipes. Stewi, i had the same tune for over 2 years, maybe it might be time to get it re-tuned?

On the ride home, car sputtered veryy badly to a point where i had to go 20mph all the way home, another cell P0303, pulled all the plugs no oil nor anything wrong. Im going to check for spark like seth advised. Here are few vidz, maybe you can get a better understanding. It sucks, the shop I used to use moved to cali, nothing close by besides nj/nyc. 1st time in the 10years of owning this car, it really caused me an issue, im hoping its something minor which i can tackle. I also like to say thanks to you guys, since im lost and your my gateway to get this car back on the road.

The ride home:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/th_IMG_1355.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/?action=view&current=IMG_1355.mp4)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/th_IMG_1353.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/?action=view&current=IMG_1353.mp4)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/th_IMG_1349.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/?action=view&current=IMG_1349.mp4)

[kolio]

ron you have the E-Manage blue right?

maybe it's shit the bed. i remember people back in the day had issues with them loosing their tune. just a thought

[Stewi]

Ron does your wideband have a hookup to connect to a PC? If it does, program it so the gauge displays AFR changes every 1.5 -2.0 seconds. It will prevent the gauge from being so crazy going up and down while your driving, it will still show the correct value, it just wont be flickering all the time.

It could be the tune, the emanage could be bad, it could be a cracked intake manifold causing a massive vac leak. I would try doing a boost leak test first before I got into re-tuning and stuff. Maybe try swapping out the ignition coils if someone is local to you that you could try theirs to see if thats the issue. To me, the way it sounds in the video it sounds ignition related. Igniton probs could be the emanage, coils, wires, TPS sensor, a loose wire on the cam or crank sensor, etc.

[qnz]

How are your EGTs? One time this past winter, I had a similar problem to yours. I couldnt go faster than 30 mph, AFRs were 16+, EGTs were 1400+. I parked the car and the next day it was "better" but but far from good. My problem I think was the weather was getting colder. I tuned around it and now that its summer, my tune is still OK.

Maybe its time to go Evo 8 ECU. I have a spare on sitting on my desk right now you can have for free. (just kidding Jesus!!) It belongs to galantfan88. lol

[IceDouTGaLanT]

I did not checked the intake manifold for cracks, good call. ill go through the list you posted and see if anything helps. Qnz, egts were all normal. It has been very hot in DE compared to last two years, maybe a re-tune is needed after i check the other possibilities you guys posted. I need to look into the evo ecu, see if its something i can tackle or not

[qnz]

Brian, you wanna take a ride out to Delaware this weekend? Its 2 hrs from NYC. Not too bad.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

that be a life saver! gas+tolls+food on me!

[Stewi]

Brian, you wanna take a ride out to Delaware this weekend? Its 2 hrs from NYC. Not too bad.

Ehhh. If its the tune tho, I dont know SHIT about emanage, if he had AEM I could mess with it a little, but Emanage is foreign to me.

[qnz]

it beats trying to guess whats wrong his car from over the internets

[Shadow19]

When you removed the plugs are you sure you wired the plugs up correctly? I swear my car did that same exact shit when i first did my turbo build and like a jack ass i crossed 2 of the plug wires. Afr was lean, rich, blah blah blah all over the place. That ticking is from the cylnders not firing correctly. Good luck

[seth98esT]

Is the fuel pump stock?

[IceDouTGaLanT]

yeah, i marked all wires before removing them. The same issue was happing before the swap of plugs.

Seth, I have an Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump

[Shadow19]

Maybe u have a bad coil. Good luck man.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

I been thinking its the coilpacks, im trying to locate some which I can test. I remember alot of user's had issues with emange +coilpacks frying, which i never did. But maybe now that might be the issue. Been running the same coilpacks for 90K miles, +2yrs of boost

[Galantfan88]

Maybe its time to go Evo 8 ECU. I have a spare on sitting on my desk right now you can have for free. (just kidding Jesus!!) It belongs to galantfan88. lol[/QUOTE]

HAHA I just saw this right now, your to damn funny Aaron.lol




I been thinking its the coilpacks, im trying to locate some which I can test. I remember alot of user's had issues with emange +coilpacks frying, which i never did. But maybe now that might be the issue. Been running the same coilpacks for 90K miles, +2yrs of boost

I would deff look at the coil packs bc thats a pretty good amount of miles on the coil packs and 2 years of boost...yeah I would look at the coil packs one of them might be fried. I may be wrong but dosnt hurt.

[fatal1]

rpn i have the stock coilpacks still from my brithers car when i parted it out. as well as magnecore wires if you want to switch them out as well.

shoot me a call or a pm and if you want them ill give you a good deal

[Corey2kG]

yeah the last SOHC valve cover I removed from an 8g was GoldGalant-REBORN's car. It took me about 45 minutes to get all the old pieces of valve cover gasket out of the valve cover because it was stuck, I ened up using a small flathead screw driver and a torch to heat it up.

on my v6 it took me about 1 1/2 hours to get one out. ended up messing up the valve cover n had to get another. why do they stick so bad? my g is the only ive worked out that had this problem.

[03chi-town0z]

back to life=

16:1 afr is scary-death for a f/i car man. but that's lean, i would be more worried about the fuel system/tuning than ignition at this point. rich will bog & flood & die, but usually not enough to actually hydrolock and cause damage, super lean conditions, however, blow sh*t up on a regular basis...

love to get an update on what really happened?

[IceDouTGaLanT]

The car is still down, waiting on receiving my new coilpacks. I doubt its a tuneing issue, either fuel or ignition. The car ran great on this current tune for 2+ years with no issues with lean/rich, and just suddenly last month i experienced few backfire's and then this whole stuttering issue happened where car cant be driven. Hopefully its an simple fix *fingers crossed* maybe when you TGC nyc guys stop down for eastcoast mod, you can swing by its 30 mins from my house?

[Stewi]

Ron if there is still a problem with it when mod comes let me know. I will def try to help you out while im down there.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Update: Installed new coilpacks + magnacore wires

Had to replace battery since it drained, thanks optima for the 3yr warranty!

Started car, AFR=16.0 and sounds like a tractor still. I just dont get it arghh! Would bad fuel cause this problem?

[Stewi]

Ron can you take some video of it, or anything with sound? How does it sound if you rev it a little to lets say like 2,000?

It could be bad fuel, if you can drain the fuel great, if not, I would go to a speedshop or local track and get like 5 gallons of 100 or 110 and mix it in, that might help it a bit if the old gas has alot of moisture.

[reiketsutsukigami]

wait it sounds like a tractor? have you check to see if your sparking on all your plugs cause our engine sounds like a tractor or lawnmower when it runs on 2-3 cylinders when my ecu fried it sound like a lawnmower cause i was only running 2 cylinder cause the black/blue ignition wire from ecu pin 11 was feeding 5v even though the wire is supposed to be a ground check the black/blue and the white blue wires from your coil packs to make sure they are grounding properly if your not sparking on a few if your sparking then check your injectors maybe your only getting fuel to a few cylinders or a bit less in one or 2 causing leaner overall conditions i had one of my injector seals get screwed up on me and my egt skyrocketed. and it wasnt a big leak either.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Hey Brian, i will try to get a clip this week. Best i could describe it under 2K is like its on maybe 2-3 cylinders.

Reikets- Thats sounds just about right to whats going on. I never checked voltage, im guessing a standard volt meter is all i need?

[Isaurio]

Hope you get your G fixed. Let us know what is going on. Take a video

[reiketsutsukigami]

yea if you put the power to the larger wire(power wire) and ground it out to both the other 2 it should read around 11.2-12.whatever XD. make sure the key is in the on position when you do this or it work read anything.if either of them show like a 5.5ish number your prolly having the same problem I did.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Heres the videos requested.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/th_IMG_1506.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/?action=view&current=IMG_1506.mp4)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/th_IMG_1509.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/?action=view&current=IMG_1509.mp4)

[Stewi]

Ron are you sure your timing belt didnt jump and skip a few teeth? After watching the 2nd video, I hear alot of noise from the valve train, sounds like pistons kissing the valves.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Pulled the top cover tonight, everything looks good? How can i manually turn the belt? Im guessing that middle socket? clockwise? Anything i should look for brian to indicate skipping? Thanks for helping me problem solve this man, I truly appreciate it since i would be lost without your help.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/IMG_1519.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/IMG_1518.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/IcedoutGalant/IMG_1517.jpg

[Isaurio]

By the first video and looking at the RPM above 1500. It seems you have a big vacuum leak somewhere in the Intake mani. Is that the stock I4 Intake mani? If it is there is your problem. Check intake mani for any cracks and vacuum hoses. Also i would check, MAF, IAC, TPS sensors too. And like Stewi said double check belt and the internal parts, it also sounds like a bad lifter.

[Stewi]

Ron there is a slot for a 1/2" drive ratchet on the crank gear bolt. yes you want to spin it clockwise. Ideally, you need to remove the lower timing cover as well so that you can check the alignment of the crank gear and balance shaft gear. As to what Isaurio said, it could be a lifter, but that noise is LOUD, I have never heard a lifter that loud, unless its a few lifters. If the timing checks out, do a boost leak test to find any leaks.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Thanks to Brian (Stewi) & Aaron (Qnz) which made the 2.5hr drive to DE today, We figured out the issue with the car. After doing some tests (Boost leak, Plugs, Injectors, Timing) & being stumped by the mysterious marks on bank 1 plugs, we found the verdict. The car has a serious issue with detonation, seems like I need her re-tuned ASAP. My starter is taking a poop which I will address this weekend, hopefully the shop can re-tune by mod. Luckly, the car runs great when its out of boost so ill be at MOD regardless! Thanks guys for the help, i truly appreciate it!

[Isaurio]

Dam that very nice bro.

[Stewi]

No problem Ron. We hate seeing people lose interest in the car over stupid and sometimes easily fixable problems. The good thing is we figured it out before you passed the point of no return. See you at MOD!

[qnz]

No problem Ron. We hate seeing people lose interest in the car over stupid and sometimes easily fixable problems. The good thing is we figured it out before you passed the point of no return. See you at MOD!

quoted for truth! Thanks for lunch

[allrice4g64]

somebody drive to minnesota so i can get my car figured out lol

[reiketsutsukigami]

lmao or me i think we all need some help XD.

[Corey2kG]

Glad you guys were able to figure it out

[greddy]

YAY!!!! way to help him out guys!!!

[IceDouTGaLanT]

Replaced Sensor for Air/Fuel Gauge, took a shit

The shop think my 02 sensor is going bad, never replaced it. OEM spec is $150 at dealer ouch! anybody recommended an online store? They say the tune looks good, but will double check on dyno, but want to get this sensor in 1st.

[mrg7243]

I got a denso one from rockauto, for like 65 or 85. with the clip, but you can get one for like 45 but you have to wire it on yourself

[allrice4g64]

i can get a direct oem replacement from orielly auto parts my cost is 48 bucks because i work there if you paypal me money i could prolly hook u up?

[Shadow19]

Denso is the factory sensor, im thoroughly convinced. Rock auto has the best prices on them that i know of.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

i can get a direct oem replacement from orielly auto parts my cost is 48 bucks because i work there if you paypal me money i could prolly hook u up?

Thanks bro! i will hit you with a PM this monday:

Other news: My Air/Fuel gauge took a shit out the blue, It loads up then reads ---, My shop figured lets try new one out the box and swap the gauge it self, and it WORKS?.. wtf same harness, sensor just new gauge. Shop cut me a deal on a new ugeo, I was already paying $95 for the sensor installed, instead they just charged me $195 for another ugeo. I can keep the extra wire harness or sell it on ebay.

[Stewi]

Thanks bro! i will hit you with a PM this monday:

Other news: My Air/Fuel gauge took a shit out the blue, It loads up then reads ---, My shop figured lets try new one out the box and swap the gauge it self, and it WORKS?.. wtf same harness, sensor just new gauge. Shop cut me a deal on a new ugeo, I was already paying $95 for the sensor installed, instead they just charged me $195 for another ugeo. I can keep the extra wire harness or sell it on ebay.

thats what they cost nowadays. Widebands about 3 years ago were really expensive, I remember when the Uego setup was about $350, now they are under $200 retail