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IllestGalant
03-09-2003, 11:53 PM
Started tearing down another 4G64 block today, gonna go knife-edged crank in this one. check out some pics if you want
http://www.geocities.com/illestgalant/Ille...lestGalant.html ('http://www.geocities.com/illestgalant/IllestGalant.html')

seth98esT
03-10-2003, 01:43 AM
nice, Good Luck :wink:

2True
03-10-2003, 03:06 PM
Soooo.. what exactly are you doing there Illest? what's the game plan?

you have two 64's now?

JiP
03-10-2003, 07:02 PM
Stupid questoin...Where do the engine stands atatch to?

IllestGalant
03-10-2003, 08:07 PM
thanks seth, I am planning on boring .030, forged knife-edge crankshaft, forged 30 over pistons, 2nd stage cam, alloy clevitte bearings, valve job,
and all that stuff, ported polished intake, already have full blown exhaust with header and ecu upgrades and SFM. the engine stand bolts into the bell housing bolts, or in other words, where the tranny bolts too
this is actually my third 4G64 and they are getting stronger everytime.

BEAST
03-10-2003, 08:32 PM
Wow looks like you got some big plans for it. You planning on doin another one to, or is this gonna be it for ya. What do you do with your old engines?

IllestGalant
03-10-2003, 09:49 PM
I bought a used 4G64 with like 28,000 miles on it and swapped it in for the motor my car came with. I took that engine apart and found that
it was burning oil due to leaking piston rings. I replaced the rings and
bearings and left the head alone. I put it in my friends 95 galant. Now I bought another used block 40,500 miles and am in the process of tearing down this one. I made some progress, tonight I pulled the head, found the cylinder walls are perfect, nice crosshatch and not a lot of carbon in the block. no internal corrosion at ALL! the main bearings look like they have never even been used, I'm impressed. I will update pics constantly so anyone interested can see what goes on in our motors. this is gonna be fun! :wink:

HeadAche
03-10-2003, 09:59 PM
Damn sounds like a very interesting project keep us posted.. im interested into what your doing..

MidNightRacing
03-11-2003, 03:58 PM
Where are you getting this knife-edged crank. Recently I been thinking about that section and was wondering where I could posibly get something.

JiP
03-11-2003, 08:33 PM
I *think* you send your crank to a machine shop and they grind it and balance it.

IllestGalant
03-11-2003, 08:55 PM
you can send it out to the machine shop, but it cost a fortune and they have to add weight to the edges to make up for the loss of metal they cut away or you will get a ton of vibration. Magnus Motorsports is suppling me with the crank. I also have moved the page to http://www.angelfire.com/ill/illestgalant/ ('http://www.angelfire.com/ill/illestgalant/') I will take pics of the head and
inside of the block this weekend. I will be posting all the info I find out
here.

ablythe
04-13-2003, 01:08 AM
Illest,

Thats pretty smoothe. I've rebuilt 2 Ford 2.3 motors before and I'm thinking about scavenging around for a motor at the local yards in Dallas, TX. My bottom end has 170K miles on it. She just got a fresh A/T and I'd like to have a motor waiting. Maybe with some mods in it! 8)

I have a couple of Q's. How much does a gasket kit cost? How much does a set of pistons, rings, bearings and all that stuff cost? Oh and, how much did you pay for your motors?

Thanks for the help. Righty tighty, lefty loosy, right?? Just kidding.

AB (tunemaker7)
Dallas, TX
96 Galant S Maroon
Dark Tint
Kenwood Headunit
Kenwood Excelon 200W Amp
Kenwood Excelon 6.5 separates
1 12" Rockford Fosgate Sub
Sylvania Silverstar Halogens
Aftermarket doorlocks and power windows

IllestGalant
04-13-2003, 06:32 PM
well aftermarket gasket kit can run about 50 bucks, but I am gonna use the factory seals and will have to buy them peice by piece. the head gasket, header gasket, intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, oil pan gasket will all probably run 150 bucks but i ain sure yet. also need crank and cam seals and distributor seals so could be more, as for the pistons and all that stuff. it depends. a good set of pistons can be 500 bucks. the alloy bearings clevitte makes are like 400 for just the mains and the cam bearings are another 350. it's expensive but it will be worth it. :wink:

ablythe
04-14-2003, 11:26 AM
I know this sounds like a stupid question, but what is the advantage of the clevite alloy bearings? In all the motors I've ever built, I've just had the crank turned 10 Tenthousandths and put oversized bearings in. I'm not familiar with the alloy clevite setup.

And where are you getting the pistons? Are you using a higher compression or lower compression for Forced Induction?

AB Dallas, TX
Tunemaker7

HiperSilver
04-14-2003, 06:06 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MidnightES)</div><div class='quotemain'>Where are you getting this knife-edged crank. Recently I been thinking about that section and was wondering where I could posibly get something.</div>

dont send it to a shop, get a built one from magnus or buschur or some shop, ask em about it. WHat they do is make the edges of a crank like a knife so it cuts through the oil like a hot knife through butter, therefore making it swing easier=more power so to say

Kain
04-14-2003, 07:05 PM
Knife-edging a crank just isn't really worth it in my opinion. I haven't had occasion to see the 4g64 crank yet, but many of the ones that I've pulled out of other modern japanese engines are already fairly aerodynamically designed and low weight from the factory. I guess if you're looking for maximum hp.... I'd be happy enough just swapping out the rods for 1g units and pistons to higher/lower compression depending on the application. But again, just personal opinion. I wish I had the cash to do an engine build, right now I don't have the cash to put gas in my car. End-of-school-year-running-out-of-saved-cash syndrome.

HiperSilver
04-14-2003, 10:33 PM
yea, knife edge crank is for like max hp, where evertyhing counts, just like a lightened flywheel, removing blanceshafts, etc etc

IllestGalant
04-15-2003, 09:57 PM
:wink:
the alloy bearings aren't lead based so they can withstand higher revs and
"should" hold up better under "racing" conditions. This motor is going to be completely Naturally Aspirated so it isn't for forced induction application but would be useful for both. Also the main bearing bores of the block and the girdle for the main caps have to be line bored to make room for bigger bearing and larger crank. As for compression, if dome pistons are installed in a 4G64 to raise the compression, with the combination of a higher lift and duration camshaft, the valves will tap down and collide with a piston so either the pistons have to be machined to have cutouts for the valves to clear or machine a plate deck about an inch thick to slip between the head and block to make the combustion chamer larger. Big bucks but we're talkin some serious horsepower. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

fastdsmbuilder
04-16-2003, 02:10 PM
if you guys are looking for real power , talk to a guy that knows hows
to build power and what it takes to run real power. i worked in a
machine shop and i have built my own 255 hp 4g64 daily driven
no problems. my real love is my 1st gen talon @ 525 at the wheels.
email me @ [email protected]
not being cocky but i have built dsm cars for 9 years now,worked for
mitsu for 5 yrs, and a pro race shop for 4 yrs always willing to help
fellow dsm freaks.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif :firedevil: