launching

[galant108]

is there really anything you can do to help your galant launch quicker? i've tried different methods but it always seems like it boggs out from a dead start. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks brett

[Gtorque]

to be honest with you are automatic transmission isnt really good with launching.what you could try to do is push your foot all the way down on the brake and use your other foot and push the gas pedal down all the way at the same time.then let your RPMs rise up for a couple of seconds and then let go of the brake.

i had a Level 10 stage 3 auto transmission build in my g.it would rev over 4,000RPMs and the car would inch up way to much.after that i ended up getting some brembo upgrades and the inching up stopped.the take off was 100X better. alot of burning out but a hell of alot better launch and numbers

[galant108]

thanks man. is your g a v6 or a l4?

[Stewi]

You need more power to avoid "bogging" the stock engine is weak and the tranny is sloppy, its not meant to be fast in stock form

[Isaurio]

Yeah i notice that when engine gets hot"running temp"'. Like after a 15min drive. it lags a little bit after a stop. I hope when i change my mani to a outlander and diamante tb will help a little bit. Also changing the pistons and camshaft will help a lot too. Like everyone says AT trans sucks specially 1st gear, when coming to 2 the rpm goes way to low causing the car to lag. :(

[blue8g]

I just double clutch and then when i hit vtec my floor panel flies out because of the stress on the manifold

It's all good.....I sold some sr20's for a premium a week before racewars plus i'm slinging parts for harry

[galant108]

Alright so i'm pretty much screwed. thanks for all the info

[GmoEm2]

you need NOOOOSS!!

[GmoEm2]

but to answer your inquiries: stop that, stop that right now. drive like a normal person.

[keith6110]

Get a manual transmission. I'm waiting to get out of my break in period before I try any launches but I burn out on accident just trying to go sometimes. The difference between auto and manual is phenomenal in every way, especially launches.

[Gtorque]

i have a 2.4l... stewis right ,you need more power. but even when i had my g turboed with a built block the stock transmission still bogged out. you need alittle more power and some upgrades in your tranny to let you rev higher like i told you.or you can just trash all the headache and do a 5speed swap

[Isaurio]

You don't think is the AT ECU of our car. The ECU is the one that calculate the RPM for the AT to shift to the next gear. If you could tune the ECU to shift in higher RPM will be the answer to the lag. but I think is a lot of programing work. But is true more power more compression will solve the problem for AT. U notice no problem when the engine is cold it has more compression because of the cool air coming in, after 20 min the engine bay gets hot and the intake mani gets hot worming the incoming air. Or you could go 5 speed, don't know the exact improvement because i don't have 5 speed.

[Galantman03]

^lol why to much work... just swap with a 5 speed, its 1000000000000000000000x better IMO, and you get to decide what rpm level you want to launch at...

[Galante]

I will start my 5 speed swap tom. I'll let you know the difference after the swap. =)

[galant108]

You don't think is the AT ECU of our car. The ECU is the one that calculate the RPM for the AT to shift to the next gear. If you could tune the ECU to shift in higher RPM will be the answer to the lag. but I think is a lot of programing work. But is true more power more compression will solve the problem for AT. U notice no problem when the engine is cold it has more compression because of the cool air coming in, after 20 min the engine bay gets hot and the intake mani gets hot worming the incoming air. Or you could go 5 speed, don't know the exact improvement because i don't have 5 speed.

ok what would be some good upgrades to the tranny. lol and yes i was going to say f*ck it and hook some spray up and call it a day. anyways i would have money to get upgrades but no where near enough to do a manual swap. don't you need a different ecu for that? and also what if i just got a basemap done? or would that not be enough?

[WhiteGalant]

Its not worth the hassle, just do the 5spd swap.

[skrap]

You can do a 5speed swap for like 1k or less... Just shop around fool. You spend more money on trying to get ur auto tranny to launch better..

[galant108]

You can do a 5speed swap for like 1k or less... Just shop around fool. You spend more money on trying to get ur auto tranny to launch better..

alright i'll look into it. i'm getting $1,7xx for restitution for some stolen dirtbikes. i've decided to only fix the one that i actually ride and it's only $6xx some to fix it. so what first? lower it or manual swap it. cuz one will have to wait for when i get taxes back. lol

[skrap]

5 speed swap with be the most gratifying mod that you do to your G.. I would do that first..

[Galantfan88]

I just double clutch and then when i hit vtec my floor panel flies out because of the stress on the manifold

It's all good.....I sold some sr20's for a premium a week before racewars plus i'm slinging parts for harry

Why are you always talking about your Honda when this has nothing to do with it. We are talking about the auto tranny on a Mitsubishi not Honda.




alright i'll look into it. i'm getting $1,7xx for restitution for some stolen dirtbikes. i've decided to only fix the one that i actually ride and it's only $6xx some to fix it. so what first? lower it or manual swap it. cuz one will have to wait for when i get taxes back. lol

Our cars really arent that bad at all when it comes to taking off...1st gear sux I will say that but after that you can feel the TQ pulling. Yes I can say that when it gets really hot out the G does have trouble taking off bc of all that heat killing the motor. The auto tranny is only ment for you to get from A to B, but I will say that mostly doing a 5 speed swap your car will pick up alot faster and tranny will run cooler than the auto. Just look around and see whos selling what on wither TGC or best bet Club3g.

I say the only auto tranny I have driven that was the best on a Mitsubishi is the Evo x MR. Damn thing shifts so fast

[Stewi]

You don't think is the AT ECU of our car. The ECU is the one that calculate the RPM for the AT to shift to the next gear. If you could tune the ECU to shift in higher RPM will be the answer to the lag. but I think is a lot of programing work. But is true more power more compression will solve the problem for AT. U notice no problem when the engine is cold it has more compression because of the cool air coming in, after 20 min the engine bay gets hot and the intake mani gets hot worming the incoming air. Or you could go 5 speed, don't know the exact improvement because i don't have 5 speed.

Your reading way too much into it and forgetting one important thing. The compression inside the cylinders is at its lowest when the engine is cold. As the engine warms up, the pistons (rings) heat up and expand causing a better seal against the cylinder wall. If you have ever done a compression test you will notice if you did it cold (which is the wrong way) your #'s usually end up about 10-15% lower than what they did when the engine is warm.

Heat soak from hot engine bay temps plays a roll in it, but its not as much as you think, maybe a 5-7whp difference on a naturally aspirated car like a stock 8g, on turbo cars air temp plays a big role since the lower the temp will allow the entire system to run more efficiently (all things considered, timing, boost, fuel) which will provide you the ability to make more power.

In regards to the transmissions gearing and trans ECU tune, you really need to focus on the original question which is just the launch. The launch is just plain acceleration from a dead stop, no consideration for gearing, shifting and the like. On an AT trans car you powerbrake when you "launch" hold the brake to the floor and hold the gas to the floor, from my experience you'll end up at about 1800-2200RPMs and the car wont move, release the brake, the car noses over like a pig, then squats in the back, then goes. If the car had lets say about another 30-50whp, it wouldnt nose over, it would squat, probably chirp the tires and go. You can get into other things like high stall torque converters so that you could leave the line at 3500RPMs which of course the car will have more power, but the bottom line is your trying to "launch" a 3000lb fwd car that makes 104 horses at the wheels.

[GmoEm2]

Why are you always talking about your Honda when this has nothing to do with it. We are talking about the auto tranny on a Mitsubishi not Honda.


if you didnt notice this was a fast and furious quote and it made me lol cuz this ricer is launching his auto. so for once i have to back cody up on this; but he is a little honda fan boy isnt he? lol

[Isaurio]

Your reading way too much into it and forgetting one important thing. The compression inside the cylinders is at its lowest when the engine is cold. As the engine warms up, the pistons (rings) heat up and expand causing a better seal against the cylinder wall. If you have ever done a compression test you will notice if you did it cold (which is the wrong way) your #'s usually end up about 10-15% lower than what they did when the engine is warm.

Heat soak from hot engine bay temps plays a roll in it, but its not as much as you think, maybe a 5-7whp difference on a naturally aspirated car like a stock 8g, on turbo cars air temp plays a big role since the lower the temp will allow the entire system to run more efficiently (all things considered, timing, boost, fuel) which will provide you the ability to make more power.

In regards to the transmissions gearing and trans ECU tune, you really need to focus on the original question which is just the launch. The launch is just plain acceleration from a dead stop, no consideration for gearing, shifting and the like. On an AT trans car you powerbrake when you "launch" hold the brake to the floor and hold the gas to the floor, from my experience you'll end up at about 1800-2200RPMs and the car wont move, release the brake, the car noses over like a pig, then squats in the back, then goes. If the car had lets say about another 30-50whp, it wouldnt nose over, it would squat, probably chirp the tires and go. You can get into other things like high stall torque converters so that you could leave the line at 3500RPMs which of course the car will have more power, but the bottom line is your trying to "launch" a 3000lb fwd car that makes 104 horses at the wheels.

Thanks Stewi for the info.