Unknown engine plug

[Isaurio]

Hello TGC. I need help identifying a plug:100:. I need to know where it goes.
When i did my Outlander intake mani there was one plug that was left out. This wire goes inside the engine block is above the oil pressure switch here some pics, any comment are welcome. Plug is a male and it have one red and one black wire. This is from a 02 I4

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww267/isaurio/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_8188.jpg

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww267/isaurio/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_8032.jpg

[99galantES]

would it be from the knock sensor? i have one in and it looks like that just sitting in the bay

[Isaurio]

dont know good question. But it needs to be plug somewhere. Dont find the female plug.

[99galantES]

same with me i have a new engine but that plug is just laying there cuz it doesnt have a connector to it my old motor never had it

[Isaurio]

Dam it needs to go somewhere because is coming out from the engine.

[99galantES]

did you ever notice it before

[Isaurio]

not really no. Dont know if it did go somewhere on the old intake mani. I want to know so bad now.

[99galantES]

lol does your car drive fine without it?

[Isaurio]

Well is a little rough idle on drive and reverse.

[mrg7243]

i dont recall seeing that plug hold on let be go check

[mrg7243]

i didnt see anything, but check the egr plug under the tb, it runs by the IAC wire loom

[M-Rod]

That same plug on the V6 is for the knock sensor. I'm guessing it's the same for I4.

[Isaurio]

That same plug on the V6 is for the knock sensor. I'm guessing it's the same for I4.

I dont see the plug that goes to it. BUMP BUMP. Anyone check on your I4. Is under the intake mani by the middle.

[Isaurio]

i didnt see anything, but check the egr plug under the tb, it runs by the IAC wire loom

No is not the egr plug. Is already plug in or the evap.

[Isaurio]

Holy crap. I found out that it is the knock sensor plug. 99galantES, M-Rod yes is the knock sensor. The big question is where does it goes. How the ECU get the reading if don't if is not connected to anything, I got some pics. I was reading about the knock sensor and is very very important for the performance of the engine. If is bad or is not connected it leads to Bad acceleration, reduce on gas millage etc. Need to find where it goes.

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww267/isaurio/knocksensor2.gif
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww267/isaurio/knocksensor.gif

Found this. I'm going to try following the wire. It should be with the evap, and egr connectors. mrg7243 let see if is around there.
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww267/isaurio/knocksensor3.gif

[mrg7243]

here is a picture of where the knock sensor is
its actuallly 99galantES picture
http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af322/mrg7243/IMG00805-20101103-1724.jpg

but it would be beneath the water tube, my car does not have one i can tell you that

[Isaurio]

Yeah i know where it is but i dont found the connector on the wiring hardness.. I have to look more into it.

[99galantES]

as you can see i have one too but no connector idk why my old motor never had one

if you get it wired let me know

[Stewi]

Yeah i know where it is but i dont found the connector on the wiring hardness.. I have to look more into it.

Hey you didnt change motors or wiring harness' right? You just swapped over to the outlander manifold and thats it? If you only swapped manifolds that wiring connector needs to be somewhere. It's typically on the same harness as the wires for the MDP and injectors. Just take a good look for it.

[Isaurio]

Thanks stewi. I only swap the outlander mani. I will take a good look around the harness. It looks like the same plug the oil pressure switch uses.

[Stewi]

Thanks stewi. I only swap the outlander mani. I will take a good look around the harness. It looks like the same plug the oil pressure switch uses.

See I wish I knew more about that year, on my 99' the oil pressure switch uses one of those black slide on blade style connectors, just like the one on the ground near the cam sensor and the connector on the starter.

[RedGalant2k1]

Give me a farther out picture and I can help better.

[Isaurio]

Here some more pics
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww267/isaurio/ce1a58f8.jpg
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww267/isaurio/c03b8f13.jpg
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww267/isaurio/e2b6dbfd.jpg
Ok like a year ago I changed the engine. But the guy said is an 02 galant. But it could be a eclipse engine. Don't know anymore. That sensor threw me off.

[RedGalant2k1]

Does the vehicle have a check engine light on, or ever? Does it run rough? Any other warning lights come on

[SPD_FRK]

As far as I am aware...the 4cyl Galant never had a Knock Sensor on the ECU or Engine. That was one of the key reasons the Galant and Eclipse folks went to the Evo ECU besides being for a M/T setup and having the flash capability, it also had the Knock Sensor on the ECU.

This is a bit wierd though as you can simply plug a Knock Sensor into the back of the Block on the Galant and Eclipse to accomodate for the Evo ECU swap, however without the Evo ECU, neither the Galant or Eclipse ECUs hae a provision to even use the Knock Sensor. The OEM harness doesn't even have a connector for the Knock Sensor either, that has to be wired in seperate.


Hope that helps some...

[Isaurio]

Thanks SPD_FRK. My engine most be from a eclipse them. Yeah i dont find the connector on the 02 harness. UMM I do have a Evo ECU on hold but i will need the whole engine harness for this. RedGalant2k1-- no check engine light, A little rough tho. When i put it on reverse or drive it gets a little rough, motor mounts are OEM and only 6 month old.

I have another question. The oil light is driving my crazy already. Since i went to MOD the oil light comes on. I changed the oil pressure switch and still comes on. It comes off after 2000 RPM but it lights on below 1000 rpm. I changed the oil "synthetic blend 10w30" and it came off for about 3 weeks and them it came back on. I dont know what it could be. Any suggestions.

[Stewi]

you might have low oil pressure, which is serious

[Isaurio]

My mechanic checked the oil pressure and is reading about 4.8PSI on idle. what would be better 10w-30 or 5w-30?

[Stewi]

My mechanic checked the oil pressure and is reading about 4.8PSI on idle. what would be better 10w-30 or 5w-30?

where did he measure it at? If he measured it at the port where the sensor goes, thats wayyyy low. Think about it like this, at idle, pressure at the filter housing is around 10-15psi, sometimes even a bit higher (when the oil is cold, its higher) that oil sensor port is only about 10" away from where the oil goes from the filter housing back into the block, its off a main oil galley. You should be seeing at least 10+ from that port at idle. In my car, I have 5-8psi of oil pressure at the head, at idle with the oil warm and the head has the lowest oil pressure of the entire engine.

I justed checked the FSM and its saying 5psi is the service limit, but i've never seen a car go that low at idle, thats insane.

[Stewi]

Ok just dug up all in info in the service manual

it says 4.2psi is the minimum service limit with the engine warmed up at idle (figure 600-800rpms give or take) and 43psi is the mininum at 3500RPMs. I would have your mechanic test the pressure with the engine at 3500RPMs and if its below 43psi, I would be looking for a new engine. If its still low, it could be the pump, but it could also be damaged bearing inside the engine thats allowing too much oil pressure to pass by, which creates less overall pressure in the system. This happens typically when you damage a crank or balance shaft bearing it creates a giant oil "leak" inside the engine which causes the pressure to drop drastically.

[Isaurio]

Ok just dug up all in info in the service manual

it says 4.2psi is the minimum service limit with the engine warmed up at idle (figure 600-800rpms give or take) and 43psi is the mininum at 3500RPMs. I would have your mechanic test the pressure with the engine at 3500RPMs and if its below 43psi, I would be looking for a new engine. If its still low, it could be the pump, but it could also be damaged bearing inside the engine thats allowing too much oil pressure to pass by, which creates less overall pressure in the system. This happens typically when you damage a crank or balance shaft bearing it creates a giant oil "leak" inside the engine which causes the pressure to drop drastically.

Thanks Stewi for looking that up. Yeah thats right we checked it at idle and it was good. about 4.5PSI. I will try to check it at 3500RPMs. I know when i changed the oil it the light was off for like 3 weeks. When I accelerate it comes off, when drops like about 800 RPM it comes on. Dam don't tell me my engine is Fuck up like that. :(.. My last thing is to check the oil dip stick on the oil pan. I have a brand new oil pump but that's some labor there since the timing belt needs to come off.

[Malcriaoxx]

Damn,isaurio take it to a few mechanics to see what they tell you.If anything talk to keith for maybe a new motor....

[Isaurio]

I'm not giving up on this engine yet. The last thing i will do it to change the oil pan it looks a lil bend inward. and check the oil dip stick. Last i will change the oil pump. If that does not let see what happens.

[Stewi]

Just make sure your not leaking anywhere. Low oil volume can lead to low pressure if its really that low. Take a pic of where the pan is bent. If its bent near the pickup tube, that could be restricting oil flow into the pump which could cause the pump to not be able to build enough pressure coming out.

[Isaurio]

Yes i will take a pic. now that i think carefully, it was bend before and the car was fine for over year with no light. The mechanic told me i should fix it because it could cause problems later on. He said he could fix it by taking it out and push it back out since OEM oil pan is about 180 dollars. When i took it to MOD about a month after i fix the oil pan that happen. Maybe he put the pan a lil wrong making the dip stick off position. Is bend again because when they was changing the timing belt and water pump the lifted\hold the engine by the oil pan. I found it stupid. But i will go back and double check that before i go more deep into it. The car runs good, a lil more power with the outlander and the diamante tb.

[Stewi]

Nah the dip stick tube goes into the block and the stick itself into the pan, you cant really put it on "wrong" so to speak.

When you lift the engine in the future, put a phone book between the jack and the pan and it wont bend.

[Isaurio]

I will change the pan and check around there for any funny thing. Should i go with 5w30 or 10w30?

[RedGalant2k1]

5w30, anything else around these parts is unnecessary.

[Isaurio]

5w30, anything else around these parts is unnecessary.

umm i believe i have the 10w30. synthetic blend.. Dam dont tell me i'm putting the wrong shit. ??????

[BronxBlur23]

umm i believe i have the 10w30. synthetic blend.. Dam dont tell me i'm putting the wrong shit. ??????

Don't worry i've been puttin 10w-40 in mine, I just switch to pennzoil 5w-30, it's been runnin WAY better ever since

[Isaurio]

I'm going to do that when i change the oil pan. I will do a engine oil flush and going to tell them to put 4 quart of 5w30 and one of lucas.

[Stewi]

I would only run a half container of lucas because that shit is THICK. When I had my stock 8g I can 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter.

[RedGalant2k1]

umm i believe i have the 10w30. synthetic blend.. Dam dont tell me i'm putting the wrong shit. ??????

10w30 can be used if needed. But if you look at the specs for 5w30 and 10w30 there isn't much difference at all. The problem is in the winter the thicker weight oil tends to not move as easily. Even still the freeze point and boiling point of 5w30 is only marginally different than 10w30. Then if you use a synthetic like AMSoil, it makes changing the oil weight and viscosity used even less reason to use anything other than 5w30.

[Isaurio]

Bad news. I change oil pump and light still comes on. Checked crankshaft bearings and they look a lil scratch up. I guess new engine for me.

[99galantES]

That shit sucks did you make sure the plug to the oil pressure switch is intact mine was barely attached and made the light come on

[Corey2kG]

Bad news. I change oil pump and light still comes on. Checked crankshaft bearings and they look a lil scratch up. I guess new engine for me.


That shit sucks did you make sure the plug to the oil pressure switch is intact mine was barely attached and made the light come on

Sucks. Looks like you both are in the same boat. Sorry bro

[Stewi]

Bad news. I change oil pump and light still comes on. Checked crankshaft bearings and they look a lil scratch up. I guess new engine for me.

If you changed the pump and still get low oil pressure at idle that means one of the bearings is misaligned or damaged which is causing too much oil flow thru that bearing. A being with normal wear will show a slightly "shaded" area of which is worn, a damaged bearing will show actual scratches in the bearing surface and you should also see some metallic flakes in the oil as well. When time comes to switch the engine, save the oil one, I bet it would be great for a performance shortblock build, I bet the crank could be saved with a polish or a .010 undercut.

[deeznutz]

It's only a matter of time before that engine goes i keep telling him to take my old block and build it but for some reason he don't wanna listen to me. Stop procrastinating and do it before you find yourself stuck with no car!

[Isaurio]

It's only a matter of time before that engine goes i keep telling him to take my old block and build it but for some reason he don't wanna listen to me. Stop procrastinating and do it before you find yourself stuck with no car!

Lol. Yea yea. Is all about the bread

Project Evogalant is activated. Yeah let's take your block and rebuild it 2.5l. I'm going to start little by little collecting parts. 5 speed parts is almost done. Also I have my eye on a good deal on a Evo head, going to buy it today. Let's see if member goes through. I will keep u updated.

Stewi. Yes is was lil line on the crank not noticeable but u could feel it with your finger nails. For now I'm going to run thicker oil.

[deeznutz]

Sell yourself on the corner...

[Stewi]

Whats with everyone and their "2.5 builds"? LOL... I've been seeing alot of that lately. The 2.4 isnt really a 2.4, its a little under 2.4, im not sure where this internet phenomenon is coming from, but when you go .020 over on a 4G64 it doesnt become a 2.5l. End Rant.

On a serious note, let me know if you need help selecting/locating parts and what not. I know of a really good machine shop that has put together alot of 4G64 bottom ends (he did mine, XD_01's and Goosey's) He's not cheap, but he's not over-priced either. Turn around time is usually about 1 month, sometimes even faster.

[Galantman03]

Whats with everyone and their "2.5 builds"? LOL... I've been seeing alot of that lately. The 2.4 isnt really a 2.4, its a little under 2.4, im not sure where this internet phenomenon is coming from, but when you go .020 over on a 4G64 it doesnt become a 2.5l. End Rant.

On a serious note, let me know if you need help selecting/locating parts and what not. I know of a really good machine shop that has put together alot of 4G64 bottom ends (he did mine, XD_01's and Goosey's) He's not cheap, but he's not over-priced either. Turn around time is usually about 1 month, sometimes even faster.

you mean fully balanced, polished crank? boring dip tank and i'm missing something...

[Isaurio]

Yea stewi I will need your advice and where to get parts. First I'm going to start with the block so pm me the info about where and how much to get the block done. Also what custom pistons and rods to get. I will be a lot of work but anything is possible.

[Stewi]

you mean fully balanced, polished crank? boring dip tank and i'm missing something...

pretty much a complete short block assembly and required machine work. block surface is deckd, all freeze and block off plugs are removed, block is bored, honed and hot tanked, all oil and coolant passages are cleaned with a wire brush, freeze plugs replaced, all bolt holes are chased, crank polished and balanced, rotating assembly parts balanced to within 1gram, all assembled and ready for a head and oil pan, includes cost of bearings, I supplied the rest and parts and I think the total for machine work, bearings and assembly was about $800.

[Stewi]

Yea stewi I will need your advice and where to get parts. First I'm going to start with the block so pm me the info about where and how much to get the block done. Also what custom pistons and rods to get. I will be a lot of work but anything is possible.

I cant pm you because I dont have patron status yet : (

You are in luck though. All the parts you need are off the shelf now, nothing custom is needed. Also, you can buy the rods first, but dont order the pistons until the machine shop checks the block. God forbid the block needs to go .030 or .040 over, you dont want to order .020 over pistons, you'd be screwed.

[Isaurio]

Thanks bro. Hope not. I will start saving up for project. Let's keep on touch