Engine completely cut out while driving - won't start.

[mygalantwasfree]

Hey guys,

My Galant has been reliable and good to me for 3 years - has never let me down until now. Tonight, I was driving during heavy snowfall delivering pizzas, and my engine just completely died while driving. It was almost like I had just taken the key out.

I can turn the key, it will turn over but won't start. It won't even sputter, or "try" to start. The way it died leads me to believe that this is an electrical problem - either water got into the wiring harness at the front of the car or my distributor died.
I don't think it's a fuel issue, but I'll have to wait until tomorrow for them to tow my car back home to me. In the mean time, what do you guys think?

First thing I'm going to do is ground-out a spark plug and test for spark.
Your suggestions are appreciated as always!

[mko]

its either fuel or spark problem.

What year is ur G?

Could be the distributor for 94-95 or the crank position sensor and distributor for 96-98

[mygalantwasfree]

its either fuel or spark problem.

What year is ur G?

Could be the distributor for 94-95 or the crank position sensor and distributor for 96-98

It's a '97. Ahh, I was also thinking about the crank sensor as well! If it goes bad, is it an off-and-on sort of thing? Or does it just go out and not come back? And I believe that the ECU should throw a code if this is the case. Correct?

[mko]

yes the crank sensor goes on and off i.e represents the engine RPMs.

If some snow got under the t-belt cover it might have disturbed the work of it. And yes there should be a code.

Check if you t-belt is there. Remove the upper cover and look.

[mko]

check the ignition fuse too. its in the engine bay fuse box

[mygalantwasfree]

yes the crank sensor goes on and off i.e represents the engine RPMs.

If some snow got under the t-belt cover it might have disturbed the work of it. And yes there should be a code.

Check if you t-belt is there. Remove the upper cover and look.

I'm pretty sure that the lower timing cover + seals are in decent shape. I looked under there tonight and it looked pretty snug. The T-belt was replaced 20k ago. If the timing belt did go, wouldn't I notice a slightly different sound when cranking the engine? I would think the engine would both turn over faster and have a different sound to it. I could be wrong though :105:

EDIT: I checked to make sure the ignition fuse was both there and seated properly in the fuse box. Looked intact. I also gave each of my relays a "tap".

[mko]

did you pull the spark plug and test for spark. you only need to do it for one cylinder and while its out check/smell for raw fuel in the cylinder.

[mygalantwasfree]

did you pull the spark plug and test for spark. you only need to do it for one cylinder and while its out check/smell for raw fuel in the cylinder.

Not yet. I'll do that tomorrow, once they tow the car to my house. I didn't have two people with me to do that. I usually have someone crank it while I ground-out the plug. But once I check that tomorrow, I should be able to tell if the ignition system is at fault or can be eliminated from the possibilities.

I really need to take the upper timing cover off before I check that though. If the cylinder head isn't rotating, I definitely won't get spark!

[silversurfer]

do you smell as when u crank it over? then if so its a spark problem. any noises could it be your belts? posy=t a video and crank it over , then we could help you out a little better.k

[mygalantwasfree]

Turns out I'm getting P0335. It is in fact the crankshaft position sensor. It just sucks because it means I'll have to remove all the timing belts and crap behind the timing cover to get to it. Outside in the snow, this is probably going to be a 7-hour job to fix.

[Galanttuner10]

check the ignition fuse too. its in the engine bay fuse box

when this happened to me last week it was only my fuse luckily

sorry to hear the problem man and i know that thing is in a horrible spot. good luck.

[microgalant]

Do you've balanceshaft belt?
Maybe the balanceshaft belt broke and broke the cranksensor..

[mygalantwasfree]

Do you've balanceshaft belt?
Maybe the balanceshaft belt broke and broke the cranksensor..

I guess it's a possibility, but I won't really know until I remove the timing cover. Does that scenario happen commonly with the 7G? If so, and if that did happen to me, I'm very lucky that it didn't break the T-belt as well.

[microgalant]

Not all the 7g's I think the one from 1996-1998 that uses the cranksensor at the crank.
When I got my 1996 galant the bs belt broke and broke the sensor.

[galantlvr34]

I guess it's a possibility, but I won't really know until I remove the timing cover. Does that scenario happen commonly with the 7G? If so, and if that did happen to me, I'm very lucky that it didn't break the T-belt as well.

yeah you are lucky that the timing belt didnt break,but i dont know if the balance shaft belt broke isnt there still a chance the valves could have bent still.

[mygalantwasfree]

yeah you are lucky that the timing belt didnt break,but i dont know if the balance shaft belt broke isnt there still a chance the valves could have bent still.

As long as the timing belt is completely intact, the valves are still in synchronization with the pistons and no valve damage will occur.

[galantlvr34]

As long as the timing belt is completely intact, the valves are still in synchronization with the pistons and no valve damage will occur.

oh ok so if that is what happened to your car then your valves should be fine.

[mygalantwasfree]

Do you've balanceshaft belt?
Maybe the balanceshaft belt broke and broke the cranksensor..

(MK0 also gets credit for this):
...Wow buddy you are either a genius or a psychic. But I don't believe in psychics so you must be really smart then. Guess what happened?

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/7355/img4499l.jpg
You can see the BS belt's teeth in that photo, behind my T-belt. It's quite obvious from the photo that the belt is broken. It broke, took out my crank sensor, and stopped the engine.

I am very, very fortunate that it did not also take out my timing belt. :001:
I'm working in 10 degree weather, with the sky pouring down snow and negative wind chill with a giant smile on my face. This could've been so much worse!

[galantlvr34]

...Wow buddy you are either a genius or a psychic. But I don't believe in psychics so you must be really smart then. Guess what happened?

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/7355/img4499l.jpg
You can see the BS belt's teeth in that photo, behind my T-belt. It's quite obvious from the photo that the belt is broken. It broke, took out my crank sensor, and stopped the engine.

I am very, very fortunate that it did not also take out my timing belt. :001:
I'm working in 10 degree weather, with the sky pouring down snow and negative wind chill with a giant smile on my face. This could've been so much worse!

so the balance shaft belt did brake.wow you are lucky that nothing else happened.

[mygalantwasfree]

I don't really understand why Mitsubishi couldn't get this thing right when they designed the engine. The repair manual specifies to change that belt every 100,000 miles or so. But in reality, this belt must be changed every 20,000 or less. This belt had around 20k on it, and it was changed along with the BS bearing. So I really don't understand why it failed.

Question: Since the crank sensor did not break on its own accord, is it possible that I can just fix the old one? Maybe put it back in place? I don't really want to install another BS belt. Would it be stupid of me to assume that the shaft stopped rotating with all the oil journals still aligned? I'm either going to A)Leave the balance shaft installed like it is. OR B)Buy a delete kit.

People: Remember that first thread I ever made about not installing the delete kit and leaving the BS belt in place? I will now eat my own shoes in embarrassment.

EDIT: The belt should be changed at 60k intervals. 100k is incorrect.

[galantlvr34]

I don't really understand why Mitsubishi couldn't get this thing right when they designed the engine. The repair manual specifies to change that belt every 100,000 miles or so. But in reality, this belt must be changed every 20,000 or less. This belt had around 20k on it, and it was changed along with the BS bearing. So I really don't understand why it failed.

Question: Since the crank sensor did not break on its own accord, is it possible that I can just fix the old one? Maybe put it back in place? I don't really want to install another BS belt. Would it be stupid of me to assume that the shaft stopped rotating with all the oil journals still aligned? I'm either going to A)Leave the balance shaft installed like it is. OR B)Buy a delete kit.

People: Remember that first post I ever made about not installing the delete kit and leaving the BS belt in place? I will now eat my own shoes in embarrassment.

what brand of belts did you use oem mitsubishi,gates,or an autoparts store belt?

[mygalantwasfree]

what brand of belts did you use oem mitsubishi,gates,or an autoparts store belt?

I dunno yet. I won't know until I can get my second floor jack back from my friend, so I can remove the engine mount, move the water pump pulley out of the way and remove the lower timing cover.

Both belts and bearings were changed out at 110k. I do not know which brand was used because I didn't own the car then.

I replaced the timing belt (only) at 118k, because I did not know at that point whether it had already been replaced. The BS belt looked in good condition then, so I left it on there.

[galantlvr34]

I dunno yet. I won't know until I can get my second floor jack back from my friend, so I can remove the engine mount, move the water pump pulley out of the way and remove the lower timing cover.

Both belts and bearings were changed out at 110k. I do not know which brand was used because I didn't own the car then.

I replaced the timing belt (only) at 118k, because I did not know at that point whether it had already been replaced. The BS belt looked in good condition then, so I left it on there.

oh ok.it is probably a autoparts store belt because they are known for cracking and breaking around 20,000.i would put a oem mitsubishi belt on it or a gates.the recommended interval to change the timing belt is every 60,000 miles.

[mygalantwasfree]

oh ok.it is probably a autoparts store belt because they are known for cracking and breaking around 20,000.i would put a oem mitsubishi belt on it or a gates.the recommended interval to change the timing belt is every 60,000 miles.

I'll definitely order the OEM timing belt, however I will never throw another belt on that balance shaft again. From what other people have said and from my own recent experience, I do not trust it at all. Delete kit or just remove the broken belt and leave it. I'm deliberating which...

[galantlvr34]

I'll definitely order the OEM timing belt, however I will never throw another belt on that balance shaft again. From what other people have said and from my own recent experience, I do not trust it at all. Delete kit or just remove the broken belt and leave it. I'm deliberating which...

if you dont use the balance shaft belt it wont ruin the engine will it?i would probably do a delete kit if that is what you want to do.

[w/oarctic7g]

It is possible that if you just remove the broken belt carefully that the sensor will be just fine. I would definitely double check the main timing belt alignment and make sure it starts before you put the cover and pulley back on. I have run with just belt delete in the past.

[mygalantwasfree]

It is possible that if you just remove the broken belt carefully that the sensor will be just fine. I would definitely double check the main timing belt alignment and make sure it starts before you put the cover and pulley back on. I have run with just belt delete in the past.

You think that simply removing the broken BS belt may cause my car to start again? I'm not really sure on how the crank position sensor works, so I can't really say one way or another whether this will work. How would removing a broken belt cause a sensor to start working again? I thought that the failure of the BS belt somehow damaged the sensor and stopped my engine. I mean that question seriously, as I do not know how the sensor works. I'm not trying to sound like a smart-***.

[w/oarctic7g]

The belt wraps around the shaft and a piece gets lodged between sensor and sensor sprocket. The sensor can't read if something is in the way.

[mygalantwasfree]

The belt wraps around the shaft and a piece gets lodged between sensor and sensor sprocket. The sensor can't read if something is in the way.

Thanks buddy! You give me hope that I won't even have to spend $70 on a new one! I guess I'll find out tomorrow though. I must say that, apart from this whole balance shaft fiasco, this car is built very, very well. They designed the crankshaft pulley so that once the crank bolt is removed, I can just remove the 4 10mm bolts to get the pulley off. No pulley-remover tool required! +1 for Mitsubishi!

[w/oarctic7g]

No need to take the large crank bolt off, just take the 4 bolts off for the pulley. Then you can get your cover off.

[mygalantwasfree]

No need to take the large crank bolt off, just take the 4 bolts off for the pulley. Then you can get your cover off..

Well I guess it was even easier than I thought. I borrowed a friend's 100ft extension cord and hooked up my electric impact gun and took it off anyway :033: On most cars, it's gotta come off. Except this one though. The japanese did me a big favor here. It's been 3 years since I replaced the T-belt. Guess I forgot how I took it all apart.

[w/oarctic7g]

I would recommend you put that bolt back on before before dinking with it too much. That is the only thing holding the crank sprocket in place.

[mygalantwasfree]

I would recommend you put that bolt back on before before dinking with it too much. That is the only thing holding the crank sprocket in place.

I will definitely tighten it back down! Wait...there is a gear "tooth" that keeps the sprocket spinning with the actual crankshaft, correct? I was "dinking" with it a lot tonight, that's why I ask. If that's the case, then all I really have to worry about is making sure that I don't pull out on the sprocket, away from the engine block. If I did that, I would pull the sprocket out from underneath the T-belt, losing timing. I don't want to screw things up worse than they are. Am I correct in my assumptions?

[w/oarctic7g]

Its a key-way and your assumptions are correct.

[mygalantwasfree]

This is what happens when you allow a dishonest mechanic to work on your car:

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/8685/img1eh.jpg

That belt was definitely not replaced 20k ago. It's got cracks everywhere and is disintegrating. The previous owner paid some garage $800 to replace parts that were never actually replaced.

[galantlvr34]

This is what happens when you allow a dishonest mechanic to work on your car:

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/8685/img1eh.jpg

That belt was definitely not replaced 20k ago. It's got cracks everywhere and is disintegrating. The previous owner paid some garage $800 to replace parts that were never actually replaced.

wow that thing is torn to pieces.it could have been replaced but with a crappy autoparts store belt.

[microgalant]

Did you check the sensor?
It works?

[mko]

you dont need to take off the crank bolt, just remove the 4 bolts on the harmonic balancer.

[mygalantwasfree]

Did you check the sensor?
It works?

Sure it worked! After I super-glued the plastic pickup back onto it with plastic super glue :thumb_rsvd: That's only temporary though, until the new one I ordered online gets here. i refuse to give Advance Auto $80 for a new one.

My car lives again!! What a great car! It does shake a little more than I used to, but I can live with it.

[mygalantwasfree]

wow that thing is torn to pieces.it could have been replaced but with a crappy autoparts store belt.

I mean I guess it's possible, but if you were to look at this think really close up, you'd see just how dry-rotted and cracked it is. I seriously doubt it's been changed since the 60k service interval. All the balance shaft bearings were fine, none were spun or in danger of being spun, so that definitely rules out a bearing failure as causing the belt to break. It says on the belt:

"168 Do not Bend. Made in USA 107 09605 04913075."
I dunno if that's OEM or not.

[galantlvr34]

I mean I guess it's possible, but if you were to look at this think really close up, you'd see just how dry-rotted and cracked it is. I seriously doubt it's been changed since the 60k service interval. All the bearings were fine, none were spun or in danger of being spun. It says on the belt:

"168 Do not Bend. Made in USA 107 09605 04913075."
I dunno if that's OEM or not.

yeah i guess it is possible it wasnt changed.it is possible that is a autoparts store belt.i am pretty sure it is a autoparts belt because of the 168 on it.

[mygalantwasfree]

yeah i guess it is possible it wasnt changed.it is possible that is a autoparts store belt.i am pretty sure it is a autoparts belt because of the 168 on it.

That really, really scares me as a mechanic. You mean to tell me that Advance Auto parts is charging me $50 a pop for each of their low quality, shredding-prone belts? That is really scary stuff. To think that I was using Advance Auto Parts brand timing belts in my customers' cars. I will never buy T-belts from them again. EVER. (slaps self in face) :scared:

Something about having a change-out interval of 60k and designing a cheap belt that breaks after only 20k, but not specifying this when purchasing seems extremely dishonest at best. I don't really understand this. So there are belt manufacturers out there making timing belts that break before the service interval is due? Shady. Very, very shady.

[w/oarctic7g]

I have seen a number of Korean cars here w/broken belts at less than 70k miles. I guess you get what you pay for sometimes. Next time your at the parts store ask for the cheap belt and then the gatorback or gates or anything that is twice as much. Usually just a visual inspection will give you the real story.

[microgalant]

Great, so you deleted the balanceshafts?

[galantlvr34]

That really, really scares me as a mechanic. You mean to tell me that Advance Auto parts is charging me $50 a pop for each of their low quality, shredding-prone belts? That is really scary stuff. To think that I was using Advance Auto Parts brand timing belts in my customers' cars. I will never buy T-belts from them again. EVER. (slaps self in face) :scared:

Something about having a change-out interval of 60k and designing a cheap belt that breaks after only 20k, but not specifying this when purchasing seems extremely dishonest at best. I don't really understand this. So there are belt manufacturers out there making timing belts that break before the service interval is due? Shady. Very, very shady.

thats why everyone on here says to go with a oem mitsubishi belt or a gates,there are some people that have used a autoparts store belt and they are cracked at 20,000.their belts are usually made in other countries besides USA.

[mygalantwasfree]

Great, so you deleted the balanceshafts?

I didn't delete it. It just isn't rotating anymore. Is this going to hurt my engine? I've been driving it like it is now for 1,000 miles with no ill effects.

[galantlvr34]

I didn't delete it. It just isn't rotating anymore. Is this going to hurt my engine? I've been driving it like it is now for 1,000 miles with no ill effects.

no it wont really hurt the engine,there will just be more engine vibration.