Weird stutter

[Galanttuner10]

It just started a couple days ago. I havent changed any parts on the car recently.

its been happening when cruising around 2800-3500 so its mostly been happening on the highway and seems to happen it i keep my foot steady on the pedal just cruising. If i get in and out it doesnt happen and sometimes when im steady it doesnt. then tonight i was leaving a light got to about 3k and it stuttered really hard on me and bucked forward.

Im thinking its time to do plugs and wires as its been about o lets see 4 years since i did mine i believe.

any other input helps. thanks you

[galantlvr34]

yeah it sounds like it is time for a tune up.

[Stewi]

its gods way of telling you to buy an 8g.

[Galanttuner10]

its gods way of telling you to buy an 8g.

ive been thinking about getting 1 for jill, but she really wants an evo.

ill be doing plugs and wires tomorrow. i bought them today but im tired

[skrap]

Im going to say check your TPS because the same thing happened to me and my TPS was out..

[Galanttuner10]

i will keep that in mind. im going to try the plugs and wires for now as they are overdue. thank you for your input

[Galanttuner10]

ive replaced plugs, wires, distributor and still have this hiccup and sometimes its really bad.

i think it is the ECU as no matter how bad it misses or cuts there has never been a check engine light

[Galanttuner10]

maybe a crank position sensor????

[Galant306m]

They only other thing I can think of is a cam angle sensor as it controls spark rather then a cps

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[mygalantwasfree]

Galanttunner: I would think that if your crank position sensor was bad, your car wouldn't run at all. Mine went bad and the engine immediately stalled out and it was impossible to start again. Is your check engine light on?

[mko]

It looks to be like the misfiring issue I had a few months ago. it was the crank position sensor

[4g63lover]

They only other thing I can think of is a cam angle sensor as it controls spark rather then a cps

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Actually, the Crank position sensor is the trigger sensor for the ignition. Most of the time the CAS or CMP is nothing but a sync sensor to ensure that the crank is at TDC same time as the Cams. Without the CKP you will lose everything including fuel and spark which will cause a crank no start.

Is the car boosted? On boosted engines you have to pay real close attention to the gap on the plugs to avoid experiencing "spark blowout". Spark blowput is when the gap is too far and the spark gets put out by the air/fuel mix before it jumps to the electrode.

I would also check the TPS. If there are dead spots on the sweep, it'll cause it to go in and out like you are experiencing. If you could get it on a scope and do a sweep test you will see exactly where the dead spot is on the TPS. You can even plug it into a scanner that reads Engine data and do a sweep test. With the igniton in the "on" position the TPS should read .5V when the throttle plate is closed and 4.5V at WOT. if you gradually sweep it slow the voltage should gradually increase as you open it and it should gradually decrease as you close it. If voltage jumps around as you sweep open theres a dead point in the TPS. You will see the same jump on the way down to confirm it.

I say, test these components before you start throwing parts at it. It'll save you a lot of money.

[galantlvr34]

It looks to be like the misfiring issue I had a few months ago. it was the crank position sensor

no man his timing belt jumped