Problems after new O2 sensor

[Brian03Galant]

I changed my upper O2 sensor on Monday and since then I keep having a error code come up that deals with the heater warm up is below effiency. I have cleared the code 3 or 4 times and I have disconnected the battery for a few hours and then drove the car and the CEL was off, then I drove the car to work tonight and the CEL came back on. Am I doing something wrong or is the new sensor messed up. I am at a loss. Please Help.

[finald8ta]

was it a plug n play type or did u have to rewire it? ive heard ppl having issuse with aftermarket o2 sensors and the only ones that work right are oem ones from the dealer

[polishmafia]

You should replace it with an OEM sensor. Universal ones are junk, and will read O2 outside of the allowed threshold for our cars.

[Brian03Galant]

It was a plug and play Bosch sensor

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[valpen]

I would also go with one from the dealer... or go to a junk yard and get a better used one...

[Brian03Galant]

I forgot to add it was a new one from rockauto

[01blackG]

I have the same bosch one. I think the new caseing they put around their sensors are mess up. Cause once I replaced mine. My gas millage never increased and it has to have a warm motor to get even close to reasonable millage. The last tank of gas I had only got 225 miles from it. And before the origanol O2 went bad I was getting a min of 300 miles a tank.

[finald8ta]

i was having a talk to my boss about this and he had a car that he put bosch o2s in and the car kept throwing codes, he deside to get o2s from the dealer and the car cel hasnt come back

bosch o2s are junk get an oem one instead from the dealer (witch will cost abit more)

[Brian03Galant]

ok thanks guys been beating my head against the wall for the last week.

[01blackG]

i was having a talk to my boss about this and he had a car that he put bosch o2s in and the car kept throwing codes, he deside to get o2s from the dealer and the car cel hasnt come back

bosch o2s are junk get an oem one instead from the dealer (witch will cost abit more)

Awsome to know that. Now I know which route to go even though I'm not throughing codes. Out with the aftermarket and back to the dealer. I will let you guys know once I make the change and fill you in on if my millage improves.

[stonent]

Like I had said in another thread, I replaced the original sensor with a Denso one in my wife's Galant and it has been fine. I think maybe Mits used Denso sensors originally?

[lawrd44]

I'm throwing codes for both up and downtream o2 sensors. bank 2 sens 1 and bank 1 sens 2.
the local part store sells WALKER sensors. has anyone heard of these being problematic in mitsubishis ?

also can you help me locate exactly where they are located please ? and can I get the the pre-cat ones from under the hood or do I need too be under the car. ?

I appreciate it.

[01blackG]

I'm throwing codes for both up and downtream o2 sensors. bank 2 sens 1 and bank 1 sens 2.
the local part store sells WALKER sensors. has anyone heard of these being problematic in mitsubishis ?

also can you help me locate exactly where they are located please ? and can I get the the pre-cat ones from under the hood or do I need too be under the car. ?

I appreciate it.

I havent heard anything about the walker sensors.

But you can get to the up stream O2 from under the hood. And the down stream sensor you can get to from reaching with you arm under the car.

I do recommend purchasing the O2 sensor wrench though. Makes the job ten times easier.
Let me know if you need anymore info on how to get those out with out climbing under the car.

[lawrd44]

can u tell me exactly where they are ? bank 2 sensor 1 and bank 1 senor 2. and once I have the wrench what I have to do to get em out ?
thanks

[Brian03Galant]

Denso was the OEM of the oxygen sensors

[01blackG]

Denso was the OEM of the oxygen sensors

I ran across the following on another thread.

"The sensors only work effectively when heated to approximately 316 °C (600 °F), so most newer lambda probes have heating elements encased in the ceramic that bring the ceramic tip up to temperature quickly. Older probes, without heating elements, would eventually be heated by the exhaust, but there is a time lag between when the engine is started and when the components in the exhaust system come to a thermal equilibrium. The length of time required for the exhaust gases to bring the probe to temperature depends on the temperature of the ambient air and the geometry of the exhaust system. Without a heater, the process may take several minutes. There are pollution problems that are attributed to this slow start-up process, including a similar problem with the working temperature of a catalytic converter.
The probe typically has four wires attached to it: two for the lambda output, and two for the heater power, although some automakers use a common ground for the sensor element and heaters, resulting in three wires. Earlier non-electrically-heated sensors had one or two wires.. "


Im guessing the O2 that was sold to you was faulty.

[Brian03Galant]

I went to advanced and bought a Denso O2 sensor and the light has been out for 3 days now. Will keep updated for a week or so.
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[Brian03Galant]

Since last update the CEL has came on and went off by itself with no reset from a scanner. has only happened twice.

[dronesurfboards]

id reset the ecu and i think the car has to go through 6-8 cold starts before everything is back to normal. if it doesnt come on after that, then youre good, if it does, id check the catalytic converter.

[OMEGA PHX]

I recently ordered my denso O2 I hope it works all right...