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View Full Version : REAL Projector Retrofit for 8G Galant



hedonism
07-23-2011, 02:08 PM
Don't buy those crappy Halo Projectors from eBay guys. Not only are they made for HALOGEN bulbs, but they are just plain crappy. If you are going to do HID's, please do a retro, as H4 reflectors are notorious for being the King of Glare.

This will cost you around 300$. Yes, 3 big ones. But, trust me, it will be worth it. That sexy cutoff line, REAL HID output, REAL CCFL's (optional), and the knowledge that you won't cause any accidents, well, not with your headlights at least.

I got everything I needed over at TheRetrofitSource.

I got the Morimoto Mini D2S kit, but I WOULD RECOMMEND THE MORIMOTO MINI H1 KIT, because our reflector bowls are actually too small to accommodate the bigger D2S. (I managed to cram mine in, so if you don't mind a tight squeeze the D2S is fine too)

Get either the Mini H1 or D2S, both are good, and both are extremely easy to install for us H4 reflector guys. Trust me.

Pick your setup, whether or not you want CCFL's (angel eyes), which shroud you want (E55 is the shortest in height, as I barely cleared our reflector bowls), and while you're at TRS get some BUTYL GLUE as you will need it to reseal your headlights.


I AM NOT LIABLE FOR WHATEVER YOU DO TO YOUR HEADLIGHTS, CAR, SELF, OR OTHERS, DO THIS RETROFIT AT YOUR OWN RISK. THANKS.

Materials Needed:

Pen/Small Stick
Flat head screwdriver
Oven
Primer/Paint + Auto body scuff pad(optional)
10mm Head + Ratchet


Step 1: Remove your current Halogen/HID bulb from the headlight, and also the turn signal bulbs, place aside.

Step 2: Remove the grilles, there are FOUR clips holding them in, just use a pen or small stick to depress the clips and unclip the grilles.

Step 3: Remove the headlight, there are also FOUR screws holding them in. You will need a 10MM head to unscrew these bolts. One is clearly on the top, two are behind where the grilles used to be, and one is right next to the bulb for the turn signal. Place these bolts in a safe place, please don't lose them.

Step 4: Preheat oven to 270* FAHRENHEIT

Step 5: Making sure all pieces of the headlight that can be removed, are removed, place the headlight onto the oven rack, preferably in the middle, and set timer to 8 minutes.

Step 6: WITH OVEN MITTS, take the headlight out of the oven, and place at workstation, quickly use a flat head screwdriver and stick it inbetween the two pieces. You will hear a popping noise, do not worry, this is just the glue separating. Work fast as the glue will cool down and harden again. Work your way around the headlight, running your flat head between the two pieces. you will eventually pry the two pieces apart. You are left with the lens, and the rest of the housing holding the reflector.

Step 7: Remove the plastic cover on the horizontal adjustment knob, and begin loosening it. Alternate between the two adjustment knobs/screws until the reflector is out of the housing.

Step 8: At this point, you need to make a decision, do you want to keep it chrome, or paint your reflector. I opted to keep it chrome the first time, but LISTEN, THERE WILL BE LIKE LEAKAGE FROM THE PROJECTOR THAT WILL REFLECT OFF PART OF THE REFLECTOR AND BLIND PEOPLE TO THE SIDE OF YOU, therefore, I suggest painting it black.

Step 9: If you do not want to paint, skip this part and go to the part about installation. Remove the old bulb shield, it is held in by two screws. Next scuff up the reflector well, and then clean with soap and water. It should look like a POS.

Paint Supplies Needed:

3M Body Scuff Pad
Rustoleum Primer
Rustoleum Paint (I used flat black to prevent glare)
WELL VENTILATED AREA
Patience


You do not have to use those exact products if you know what you are doing. I am merely suggesting products that have worked for me.

Step 10: Make sure it's dry, and then put a base coat of primer on, wait a few minutes, then another coat. Then let dry for a couple of hours, in the sun is even better.

Step 11: When the primer has dried for a few hours, put the final coat on, then wait and few minutes, and another coat, make sure everything is even and covered.

Step 12: Let the reflector dry for AT LEAST 12 HOURS. In the sun even better, if you live in a gloomy state, an oven or hairdryer will help speed up the process too. Mostly, just let it sit.

Step 13: Your reflector is nice and painted, now comes the mounting of the projector. (Keep in mind I used the D2S projector, and the H1 projector MAY have a different mounting method). Take off everything off the back of the reflectors except the big white crush washer. Then insert the wires through the back, making sure the crush washer does not well, crush it.

Step 14: Thread the H4 adapter plate onto the back (some trimming may be needed, I just used a knife) and then the o-ring, then the lock nut.

Step 15: Make sure everything is tight, and then mount it back on the housing using the two adjustment screws.

Step 16: Spread your Butyl glue aroudn the edges if you see that the original glue is lacking. Then preheat your oven back to 270, press the two pieces together, pop it in for 6-7 minutes, and then take it out and press the two pieces together.

Step 17: Repeat with other headlight (YOU SHOULD DO THE TWO HEADLIGHTS TOGETHER, LOL)

Step 18: Install the bulb into the back, install headlights into car, replace grille, setup wiring harness, and you are virtually DONE.

(Instructions are also available from theretrofitsource, just ask)

This is just a brief overview of the instructions, for more detailed ones, just ask in this thread, PM, or email TRS. Thanks for reading guys, and happy retrofitting.

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6759/img20110723123324.jpg
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/2167/img20110723123300.jpg

02redgalant
07-23-2011, 02:23 PM
nice tutorial

personally I would always stick with Oem projectors tsx TL's e46's fx35's .... just because of the wide spread use of them in retrofit applications and the proven output ..Oem bulbs usually start with D _ _ (d2s d2r etc) anything diff and there aftermarket and I always recommend oem d series bulbs vs any random hid kit bulb because of output is significantly better and quality the bulbs....; hidplanet is great place for info too....and checkout for wire harnesses on there also especially if you go bixenon so that you can have the hi silenoid function correctly or if you do dual projectors or hi reflector/low projectors they can both stay on when u flicker high's

hedonism
07-23-2011, 02:28 PM
nice tutorial

personally I would always stick with Oem projectors tsx TL's e46's fx35's .... just because of the wide spread use of them in retrofit applications and the proven output ..Oem bulbs usually start with D _ _ (d2s d2r etc) anything diff and there aftermarket and I always recommend oem d series bulbs vs any random hid kit bulb because of output is significantly better and quality the bulbs....; hidplanet is great place for info too....and checkout for wire harnesses on there also especially if you go bixenon so that you can have the hi silenoid function correctly or if you do dual projectors or hi reflector/low projectors they can both stay on when u flicker high's

Morimoto makes OEM quality D2S and H1 bulbs, so it shouldn't really be a problem. TRS includes a BiXenon harness that is pretty easy to understand.

The reason I didn't use TSX or FX-R or something is because there is massive drilling/cutting involved. The Morimoto Mini's are designed to just be PnP.

WhiteGalant
07-23-2011, 03:03 PM
My morimoto mini h1's work very well. Great light output.

dknight3
07-23-2011, 03:39 PM
where u live? im in oly area.. nice to see a new member from WA!

wetamup2k3g
07-23-2011, 03:45 PM
Good stuff, dude. I'm on HIDPlanet often, I plan on doing the FX-R's, but the 2.0's seem to have a cutoff shield defect, so I'm waiting for that to get fixed.

hedonism
07-23-2011, 03:47 PM
I live up in the Federal Way area, and what cut off defect are ou exactly referring to?

wetamup2k3g
07-23-2011, 03:52 PM
I live up in the Federal Way area, and what cut off defect are ou exactly referring to?

Apparently even with a quality install, the cutoffs bow downward on the nex FX-R 2.0's. See the below links for what I'm talking about:

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?40510-FX-R-2.0-bowing-cutoff-issue

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?40554-new-shield-for-the-fx-r-2.0...more-positive-thread-this-time...

hedonism
07-23-2011, 03:55 PM
Apparently even with a quality install, the cutoffs bow downward on the nex FX-R 2.0's. See the below links for what I'm talking about:

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?40510-FX-R-2.0-bowing-cutoff-issue

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?40554-new-shield-for-the-fx-r-2.0...more-positive-thread-this-time...

Ah, I've also seen that, coupled with the labor intensive install, I'm sure a bunch of people are not, not happy. Lol.

hedonism
07-23-2011, 04:05 PM
Apparently even with a quality install, the cutoffs bow downward on the nex FX-R 2.0's. See the below links for what I'm talking about:

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?40510-FX-R-2.0-bowing-cutoff-issue

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?40554-new-shield-for-the-fx-r-2.0...more-positive-thread-this-time...

How about the TL one's? They look hella nice.

wetamup2k3g
07-23-2011, 04:09 PM
Exactly!! You take all that time and get left with that? The one dude smashed his with a sledge he was so mad.

wetamup2k3g
07-23-2011, 04:11 PM
How about the TL one's? They look hella nice.

I think they are too big for 8G housings, but I could be wrong. I know the FX's fit though. The TL's are nice, ever get some TL highbeams in your mirror? You'll remember it, for sure!!

hedonism
07-23-2011, 04:33 PM
I think they are too big for 8G housings, but I could be wrong. I know the FX's fit though. The TL's are nice, ever get some TL highbeams in your mirror? You'll remember it, for sure!!

http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g297/jvxdriver/LensTest/Set2/DSC_0560h.jpg

http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g297/jvxdriver/LensTest/Set2/DSC_1534h.jpg

OMEGA PHX
07-23-2011, 04:49 PM
About painting or not painting the reflector, you could use some aluminum tape to cover the holes so light doesn't bleed, but I painted mine because I didn't like the idea of seeing the ugly projector reflection on the reflector. And I think TL's would fit but without the reflector, (I'm just saying I'm not sure), So you would need to fabricate brackets and adjustment screws and a way to cover the projector

I have FX-R's 1.0 and they are great but TL's are unreal, so evenly lit you see that cutoff and you see quality.

dknight3
07-23-2011, 05:22 PM
I live up in the Federal Way area, and what cut off defect are ou exactly referring to?.
sweet you live right next to chaps (justin) you might have seen his galant around the area.

wetamup2k3g
07-23-2011, 07:11 PM
http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g297/jvxdriver/LensTest/Set2/DSC_0560h.jpg

http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g297/jvxdriver/LensTest/Set2/DSC_1534h.jpg

For those who don't know, the top light pattern is from the TL projectors, the bottom is from the FX-R. Those light patterns are light years better than what HID kits in reflector housings can produce, period.

mrg7243
07-25-2011, 12:52 PM
can you post some pics of your car from a distance head on?

oakrdrs187
07-25-2011, 01:00 PM
Lexus LS 430, Nuff said.
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy281/oakrdrs187/BestHeadlights.jpg

hedonism
07-27-2011, 05:07 PM
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7632/img20110727143201.jpg
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/7237/img20110727143244.jpg

carl3g
07-28-2011, 12:27 AM
I assume these are the mini D2S 2.0 right? I have the gen 1 and I am not happy with them. I might go out and spend the $120 bucks to hopefully have better lights.

Bloody Arro
07-28-2011, 09:58 AM
Lexus LS 430, Nuff said.
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy281/oakrdrs187/BestHeadlights.jpg

This has got to piss off everyone that is in front of him...

Fresh_617
07-28-2011, 10:08 AM
Lexus LS 430, Nuff said.
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy281/oakrdrs187/BestHeadlights.jpg

lol oh wow thats nice

oakrdrs187
07-28-2011, 12:08 PM
I have seen that output on the freeway, they may have raised the color/contrast on the image but the beam pattern is true. And it really wasn't annoying behind me (not car in picture, actual Lexus Ls430). I just fapped when he passed me and merged to the middle lane, I was like WTF?!

wetamup2k3g
07-28-2011, 01:03 PM
The cutoff (visible in the trees, it looks like there is a slope in the field that makes the car even with the trees) is what keeps that glorious output from bothering other cars. The light stays low and far flung, right where you need it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk fam!

carl3g
07-28-2011, 01:23 PM
I have seen that output on the freeway, they may have raised the color/contrast on the image but the beam pattern is true. And it really wasn't annoying behind me (not car in picture, actual Lexus Ls430). I just fapped when he passed me and merged to the middle lane, I was like WTF?!

+1 That pic was adjusted to give people an idea of the spread of the beam, I think.

A buddy of mine used to have that car, I think its what turned me on about hids.

hedonism
07-28-2011, 03:19 PM
I assume these are the mini D2S 2.0 right? I have the gen 1 and I am not happy with them. I might go out and spend the $120 bucks to hopefully have better lights.

You wouldn't happen to be Carl3g from HIDPlanet would you?

I think I got shafted and recieved the 1.0, cause I ordered them, and next day the 2.0's were up. Thats the one thing that pisses me off the most about TRS. They get rid of their old stuff and sell the new stuff at exactly the same price, WHEN I BOUGHT IT THE DAY BEFORE, DIDN'T EVEN GIVE ME THE OPTION TO UPGRADE. What are the differences between 1.0 and 2.0 btw?

carl3g
07-28-2011, 05:41 PM
You wouldn't happen to be Carl3g from HIDPlanet would you?

I think I got shafted and recieved the 1.0, cause I ordered them, and next day the 2.0's were up. Thats the one thing that pisses me off the most about TRS. They get rid of their old stuff and sell the new stuff at exactly the same price, WHEN I BOUGHT IT THE DAY BEFORE, DIDN'T EVEN GIVE ME THE OPTION TO UPGRADE. What are the differences between 1.0 and 2.0 btw?

Yeah thats me. The 2.0 are supposed to have an even more uniform beam because the bowl was redone. Also, the hardware was redone, i believe i read something along the lines that the locking nut and other piece were casted this time instead of being machined. Although I am not entirely positive, i am pretty sure those are it from what i have read on hidplanet.

If your on hidplanet, give my thread a look over, please. May be you know something that no one else has said yet. :wink:

oakrdrs187
07-28-2011, 05:44 PM
I vote carl3g for vendor. We can all use some clean projector retro's. And deals on Projectors....

hedonism
07-29-2011, 12:12 AM
Yeah thats me. The 2.0 are supposed to have an even more uniform beam because the bowl was redone. Also, the hardware was redone, i believe i read something along the lines that the locking nut and other piece were casted this time instead of being machined. Although I am not entirely positive, i am pretty sure those are it from what i have read on hidplanet.

If your on hidplanet, give my thread a look over, please. May be you know something that no one else has said yet. :wink:

<-- Gary1.

Anyways, I guess I got shafted on the 1.0's.