Help!

[Volta Pikachu]

so yesterday i took off my brake drums to paint them, and i did it pretty late at night, so i went to sleep, and i woke up early to put em back on, but they wont' fit, and i (now realizing it was a huge mistake) put the brake on and a good amount of fluid was dripping, i heard it could be that the brake cylinder broke or somethng, and i have to go to work today, HELP!

[RedGalant2k1]

I would suggest that you get new rear brake hardware, install it. Then bleed the brakes.

Out of curiosity, did you press then brake pedal with the rear drums off the car?

[Volta Pikachu]

I would suggest that you get new rear brake hardware, install it. Then bleed the brakes.

Out of curiosity, did you press then brake pedal with the rear drums off the car?

yea i did press the pedals. i know it was a huge mistake right after i did it >.>
and does autozone sell new drum brakes with equipment? i start school tomorrow so i can't really go for the good stuff online...

oh and i got one drum brake cover back on, i just need one more...

[RedGalant2k1]

Ok, worst case is new hardware and new wheel cylinders. But, no autozone won't sell a complete package kit, though you could buy it all separate.

[Volta Pikachu]

bah, alright, thanks! i have to run down to autozone now, so ima need this stuff right?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Brakeware-Wheel-Cylinder-Rear/1996-Mitsubishi-Galant/_/N-j5kjdZ8knp8?counter=0&itemIdentifier=23169_29834_3559_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Drum-All-In-One-Kit-Rear/1996-Mitsubishi-Galant/_/N-j5kjdZ8kolh?counter=0&itemIdentifier=268290_0_10969_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Shoes-Rear/1996-Mitsubishi-Galant/_/N-j5kjdZ8ko2c?counter=0&itemIdentifier=97375_180169_10964_

and im assuming i need special tools right? i hate to be a bother, but do you know the names of what i need to replace the shoes? XD

[Galanttuner10]

Rear disc swap it

[eksz]

You should not have to replace your brake drum unless it is too far worn or scored. As long as the drum is not scored I'd just reuse it. When you stepped on the brake pedal it pushed fluid into the wheel cylinder and that it turn pushed the brakle shoes out far enough that you could not put the drum back on. Being you had brake fluid on the floor the most likely thing that happened is you popped off one of the wheel cylinder rubber end caps and that is where your leak came from. If you have not already replaced the brake parts you could open the wheel cylinder bleed screw and push the metal ends back into the wheel cylinder. Now make sure the rubber caps on the wheel cylinder are properly seated. Next attempt to push the brake shoes in and then see if your brake drum will fit on the wheel. Once the drum is back and the wheel cylinder bleed screw closed step on the brakes and bleed that wheel cylinder. One other important thing: be sure you have no grease or brake fluid on the brake shoes or the inside of the brake drum. If you have grease or brake fluid on either of them get brake parts cleaner and clean them up. BTW brake fluid will damage paint. If your brake parts are worn, go ahead and replace them. As long as the brake drum is smooth inside and clean you probably don't need to replace it. Last thought, I alway replace my brake shoes in pairs. I.e., replace the shoes on both sides of the car at the same time. You do not need to replace the wheel cylinder on the other side unless it too is damaged. Autozone is good about loaning you speciality tools to do auto repair. They charge a deposit but give it back as long as you return the tools.

[Volta Pikachu]

okay so i replaced the wheel cylinders, not the pads and then i sprayed it with break cleaner, and i bled the fluid earlier today, and now when i press the brakes, its like there is no pressure unless i repeatedly pump it, then the brake light is on as if my e brake was set, and i noticed that when i pull it its like there is no pressure now,
also i just put in the brake fluid, so how long should it take to circulate?

[RedGalant2k1]

You should bleed the entire brake system in the following order:

Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front

Make absolutely sure that you aren't leaking fluid anywhere. As importantly, make sure the master cylinder does not run dry of fluid.

[lobsterman72]

If the brake light is on and no pressure at the pedal, check for leaks. Press the brake several times while watching the fluid level. Then look under the car for the leak. If none, bleed the whole system. Brake fluid doesn't exactly circulate, it's a hydraulic constant. The fluid needs to be in an enclosed system with no air in it or pressure leaks to work properly. Lastly it could be the master brake cylinder failure...

[Volta Pikachu]

i changed the master cylinder on both rear brakes, :/
so i should just bleed everything? dang, i hope i have enough leftover brake fluid, i have about a fourth of the big bottle i bought,
and i checked for leaks and it seems fine, no leaking as far as i can tell,
although i did notice that when i hit the breaks the pedal (or something else i guess) makes a sound like air is being pushed out (like when you use a bleeder kit, that kinda sound)
what im really worried about is the parking brake v.v
and i had to call off work today...and tomorrow i start my second year of college so i can't afford not to go... >.<

[Volta Pikachu]

oh and could i just use the brake fluid that came from the bleeder? XD it's new anyways

[RedGalant2k1]

I would start with the bleed procedure I suggested. That may be all you need to do. If it still persists with pressure problems, let us know.

[Volta Pikachu]

alright so to bleed em (just to make sure i do it absolutely right, i attach the bleeder to the screw type thing [the one in the middle of the two screws that hold the brake cylinder in] and then what, do i get another person to hit the brakes? or should i just try bleeding it? also i never bled the front calipers, is it the same?)

[Galanttuner10]

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and chances are the whole system isnt new unless you bled it for ever seemingly as it's a good amount of fluid to get there. And hygroscopic means it absorbs any water in the system so you can't reuse it.

I honestly think that a rear disc swap is easier and then more servicable in the future

[Volta Pikachu]

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and chances are the whole system isnt new unless you bled it for ever seemingly as it's a good amount of fluid to get there. And hygroscopic means it absorbs any water in the system so you can't reuse it.

I honestly think that a rear disc swap is easier and then more servicable in the future

i wish that i could but right now i don't have the time :/ i have work and first day of school tomorrow, so i needa get this done fast, although in the future i'd wanna do it

[Galanttuner10]

Also, never pump the brakes when bleeding unless there is no pedal as all you end up doing is compressing the air bubble and not moving it but dispersing it when you crack the bleeder.

[Galanttuner10]

If you get the parts it would take about 2 hours to swap

[Volta Pikachu]

so i don't do anything and just get the bleeder right? same for the calipers???
and you know, i actually am REALLY interested now XD but i don't have much experience, unless someone lived near me who knew how to do it, or i guess i would otherwise wait til i learn more (or i could go to the junkyard and test it out and see how it goes XD)

[Galanttuner10]

where are you from?

[Volta Pikachu]

where are you from?

pomona CA, about 25 minutes away from LA

[galantlvr34]

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and chances are the whole system isnt new unless you bled it for ever seemingly as it's a good amount of fluid to get there. And hygroscopic means it absorbs any water in the system so you can't reuse it.

I honestly think that a rear disc swap is easier and then more servicable in the future

Yeah it is much more easier to replace pads and rotors then it is to do drum brakes.Drum brakes are a pain and i think with the rear disk swap it will stop better too.

[Volta Pikachu]

Yeah it is much more easier to replace pads and rotors then it is to do drum brakes.Drum brakes are a pain and i think with the rear disk swap it will stop better too.

XD haha peer pressure, okay i will do the rear disc swap ONE DAY XD when i have time and money, and more experience XD
but for now i gotta fix this to go to school XD

[Volta Pikachu]

so how would i go about using the brake bleeder? can anyone give step by step instructions on how to do it? cuz i dont' want to take off the drum brake cover, and the springs from the shoes too (how i did it the first time)

[galantlvr34]

Yeah the drum probably wont go on because you have to adjust the adjuster.Also if you have the emergency brake on that will cause problems with getting the drums on too.

[eksz]

Disc calipers are bleed the same way as drum brake wheel cylinders. Basic bleeding process is:
1. Wipe off the bleed screw and put a hose on the bleed screw
2. stick hose end into a jar with some brake fluid in it, makin sure the hose end stays under the fluid while you are doing this so you don't suck air back in the system
3. have someone pump the brake pedal and hold it and then you loosen the bleed screw. They have to keep holding the brake pedal until you close the bleed screw. FYI: The pedal will go all the way to the floor when you open the bleed screw but your helper just rides it down as far as it will go and holds it there. Once the bleed screw is closed your helper should pump the brakes again.
4. BLeed the wheel in the order listed. I usually bleed the wheel that had the leak first to get the majority of the air out of the system first and then do it in the order specified by the manual.
5. Do not reuse brake fluid that has been pumped thru the system no matter how good it looks.
6. Check your master cylinder fluid level continually. If you get air in from the master cylinder you basically are back to zero and have to start all over. Keep tipping it off as you go.

[Volta Pikachu]

Yeah the drum probably wont go on because you have to adjust the adjuster.Also if you have the emergency brake on that will cause problems with getting the drums on too.

i can get the drum brake on, but can i bleed the fluid without taking it off? i just don't wanna go through that whole process again,

also, does anyone know how to get that spring bolt thing that's attached to the brake shoe? cuz i figured if i can't get the brakes to work now, i might as well just do the whole drum brake replacement,

[eksz]

Leave the brake drum on the wheel while you bleed it or you will be right back where you started. There are vacumn units that can be used to suck the fluid through your brake lines. They allow you to bleed your brakes by yourself but as you need your car tomorrow, just get someone to help you.

[Volta Pikachu]

Disc calipers are bleed the same way as drum brake wheel cylinders. Basic bleeding process is:
1. Wipe off the bleed screw and put a hose on the bleed screw
2. stick hose end into a jar with some brake fluid in it, makin sure the hose end stays under the fluid while you are doing this so you don't suck air back in the system
3. have someone pump the brake pedal and hold it and then you loosen the bleed screw. They have to keep holding the brake pedal until you close the bleed screw. FYI: The pedal will go all the way to the floor when you open the bleed screw but your helper just rides it down as far as it will go and holds it there. Once the bleed screw is closed your helper should pump the brakes again.
4. BLeed the wheel in the order listed. I usually bleed the wheel that had the leak first to get the majority of the air out of the system first and then do it in the order specified by the manual.
5. Do not reuse brake fluid that has been pumped thru the system no matter how good it looks.
6. Check your master cylinder fluid level continually. If you get air in from the master cylinder you basically are back to zero and have to start all over. Keep tipping it off as you go.

question! so, my brake bleeder has the type of hose that connects from the bottle top, so how can i keep the hose under the fluid? is there any way to? and how will i know if the master cylinder has air in it?

[eksz]

You should see the bleed screw sticking out the back of the brake wheel cylinder. Post a picture of the spring thing you are asking about

[eksz]

If you have a brake bleeder kit (that's what it sounds like when you write "connects from the bottle top") just follow the instructions that came with it. Bleed kits are made to provide a seal to prevent air from being able to get sucked in thru the bleed screw

[Volta Pikachu]

You should see the bleed screw sticking out the back of the brake wheel cylinder. Post a picture of the spring thing you are asking about

i do see the bleed screw, but when i use the bleeder it shows up as 0 pressure on it (car off of course so im assuming it has to be on?) and the springs i was talking about were the ones inside the brake drum (although i guess it doesn't really matter now cuz i know i can use the bleeder on the screw)

[eksz]

I'd focus on just getting your car back together and forget about doing the whole drum replacement thing until you have more time toplay with it, i.e., a day when you have everything you need and don't have to have your car tomorrow. When you have it bleed properly the pedal will feel hard when you press on it and will not go down to the floor. When you are done test drive it carefully. Be sure to test brakes while driving in forward and reverse. If brakes fail remember you still have an emergency brake and can shift into neutral. Do your testing away from other people and vehicles if at all possible.

[eksz]

You do not need to have the car on. I don't understand what you mean when you write "it shows zero pressure"

[eksz]

Pressure comes from your helper pumping on the brake pedal and then holding it

[eksz]

Master cylinder can only get air in it if you let the fluid level drop too low. Just keep refilling the master cylinder fluid resivoir and you don't have to worry about it

[eksz]

The infor on how to bleed brakes was written under the assumption that you just had a piece of hose and not a brake bleeding kit. If you did not have a brake bleeding kit you could get by using a length of hose as long as it tighly fits the bleed screw and you keep the hose's other end under some brake fluid (its called a liquid seal) to keep air from being sucked back up the brake line

[Volta Pikachu]

so i bled the back two (couldn't do the front two well because the person who put the wheels on tightened the lug nuts way too tight, so i tried going through the wheels and i kinda could)
anyways id like to know what size wrench or ratchet exactly id need in order to take of the bleeder screws from the calipers,
also i can brake now, and the brake light turns off, but the thing about it is that 1. my handbrake has to be pulled VERY far back just to hold the car back a little, also
I HAVE THE PUSH IN THE BRAKES VERY FAR DOWN but they do work

and when i brake now my car makes a noise like a huge truck when it brakes, so i feel like i have about 20% braking power (makes sense cuz drum brakes do about 20% of the work if i remember correctly)

[Volta Pikachu]

update,

i just bled the two calipers and my brakes work pretty good now, still have to push the pedal in a little more than before, but it's good for now i guess,

but i still need to fix my parking brake : / it only works a little if i lift it all the way up

[eksz]

emergency brake adjustment is done by adjusting a nut on a threaded rod on a cable that feeds into the emergency brake handle. You'll need to remove the small tray on the console between the seats to get access. your e-brake should engage tight around the 4th or 5th click when pulling it up. If you don't have a Haynes manual, get one. It has a pretty good section on general maintenance items like this.

[Galanttuner10]

i believe there is an adjustment on our pedal to make the push rod come further out so the pedal play goes away. i still want to say there is air in the system. if air got in it takes about 20 minutes of bleeding to get it all out. good luck