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View Full Version : How to Install front motor mount the RIGHT way



mrg7243
10-30-2011, 11:40 PM
Alright this how to is basically How to install your front motor mount 100% right. This can also be done with the stock mount but I am not sure if it will have adverse effects.

But basically here is the stock bolt I don’t know the diameter of it but it’s small.

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af322/mrg7243/IMAG0377.jpg

Now here is the same stock front mount bolt through the stock mount

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af322/mrg7243/IMAG0379.jpg

Notice how there is a lot of wiggle room, so once you shift the whole assembly is going to shift forward when you are really banging through the gears.

What you can do is get a bigger bolt for the front mount

Here is said bigger bolt

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af322/mrg7243/IMAG0380-1.jpg

This was the biggest bolt Lowes had at 5/8 inch in diameter, the stock mount’s hole is ¾ so there is still a little wiggle room but I am not about to go out and order a perfect fitting bolt.

Now here below we see the stock bolt in the poly mount

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af322/mrg7243/IMAG0378.jpg

The poly mount metal insert is the SAME as the stock one that’s why it seems as if Prothane messed up in their design. But it’s actually Mitsu who dropped the ball on their design. SO if you use the stock bolt on the poly mounts you are stick going to have the engine rock.

Now here below is my 5/8 bolt in the poly mount. Since both the stock and poly metal sleeve are the same you can also do this with the stock mount.

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af322/mrg7243/IMAG0381.jpg

See how little wiggle room there is now?

I don’t have picts for the rest but it’s quite explanatory if you can get the stock mount off you can do this.

1. Remove the stock mount and subframe if you choose to do so, I had to as all of my stuff is seized on by rust

2. Now break out your drill (this is assuming you have bought the bigger bolt) Get the drill bit according to the size of your new bigger bolt.

3. Start drilling on the black bracket that attaches to the Trans, you want to just drill the stock holes out bigger.

4. Once both holes are drilled out to size make sure you go and de-burr the holes so the mount doesn’t get snagged on it upon reinstall.

5. Reinstall that shit

Now these next steps are very important

6. Go do a victory dance

7. Drink a soda(I am under 21)

8. Take a nap

9. Torque everything down

10. Startup car let it idle for a bit.

11. Shut off and check for torque on motor mount bolt.

12. Drive your car like a BAWS

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af322/mrg7243/dogboss.jpg

Corey2kG
10-30-2011, 11:58 PM
Never had that with mine

oakrdrs187
10-31-2011, 12:35 AM
Never noticed the amount of gap. LOL.

mrg7243
10-31-2011, 12:44 AM
Never had that with mine

Did you just not notice it? Cause the I4 and the V6 bolt and motor mount are both the same part numbers

Corey2kG
10-31-2011, 01:53 AM
But wouldnt that mean alot of play??? Plus Ive changed that mount SEVERAL times lol

master_visionary
10-31-2011, 03:52 AM
Here's a good pic of the cause and effect of the stock design
http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd399/master_visionary/IMG_20111008_082519.jpg

Good info

mko
10-31-2011, 01:33 PM
moved to tutorials

mrg7243
10-31-2011, 01:58 PM
But wouldnt that mean alot of play??? Plus Ive changed that mount SEVERAL times lol

Yeah there is alot of play

mrg7243
10-31-2011, 01:59 PM
moved to tutorials

thank-you

Stewi
10-31-2011, 05:57 PM
I dont remember having that much play in mine either. Are you sure you didnt put the wrong bolt in there?

mrg7243
10-31-2011, 07:37 PM
I dont remember having that much play in mine either. Are you sure you didnt put the wrong bolt in there?

Yeah positive, I am not the only one who noticed it. A few others on club3g and GT both noticed and did the same mod.

The Vee
10-31-2011, 08:16 PM
Surely though, while there is a lot of play with the bolt in the inner sleeve, when the bolt is tightened, the bracket is squeezed together onto the inner sleeve of the rubber mount so therefore locking it into place. If the sleeve was moving on it's edges inside the bracket it would squeek and rattle and you would see the wear marks inside the bracket flanges.

dknight3
11-01-2011, 12:41 AM
Yeah i noticed that too but i convinced myself that mitsubishi knows what they are doing and used that size bolt for a reason.. maybe i was wrong..

mrg7243
11-01-2011, 02:25 AM
Surely though, while there is a lot of play with the bolt in the inner sleeve, when the bolt is tightened, the bracket is squeezed together onto the inner sleeve of the rubber mount so therefore locking it into place. If the sleeve was moving on it's edges inside the bracket it would squeek and rattle and you would see the wear marks inside the bracket flanges.

ON a stock motor yes. But anything upgraded is going to torque more causing movement especially on the big v6 swaps and the turbo 4's

beam514
12-16-2011, 01:25 PM
I dont remember having that much play in mine either. Are you sure you didnt put the wrong bolt in there?

It can't be the wrong bolt, because the bolt fits perfectly into the hole on the metal bracket (which is why we need to drill it out).

Kinda old topic but I figured I would bump it since it has been coming up again recently.