Car shakes when accelerating after lowered

[poldits]

Good day,

I would like to know if you have any experience or suggestions to fix the shake when accelerating around 15-30mph, i have 2009 galant ralliart w/ 50k on the clock i dont have any problems with it before i lowered them on eibach pro kits, now almost all accelaration would give me all these vibrations/shake. I did search the forum but i dont see this problems with 9g.any tips would be very helpful.

Thank you in advance!

[brent-ralliart08]

your first problem was that you went with the eibachs. Should have gotten the WORKs springs. i have an 08 ralliart lowered with no problems. take it back to the place you got the work done and have them doubl check everything.

[poldits]

I called works, they said they stopped making them for the 9g galants that why i went with eibachs. Just went back today and have them checked everything.all bolts was tightened to its specs and they did wheel alignment and balancing just to make sure everything is correct.the problem still exist. I really wanted to get the works, i even asked workd if they even have the ones for the 4g, they said they also stopped making them.

[poldits]

I saw you car set up and i loved them that why i wanted to get the works, i have an 09 RA same color as yours. I hope there's a fix for my problem

[Sleepervr-4]

Check your axles. I had the same problem when I lowered my 8g and it turned out to be a bad axle. When you lower the car the car cambers in. So the angle of the axle also changes. If the axle was on its way that could be your problem.

[FirstWHIP9gen]

have u gotten a alignment after u dropped the car ... also were the bushings brand new

[poldits]

Axles are still in great conditions & just got them aligned & balanced for the 2nd time, i did search the internet and found out something about the change in angle of the axles. I'm planning to have the shop fabricate a spring spacers, the works spring specs are 1.38" drop F & 1.18" R . Eibachs are 1.4" F & 1.5" R, if i could get the Rear spacers with a .3" lift, i'll be very close with the works springs Specs. Then i'll go from there.

[poldits]

Update: installed .3" rear spring spacers. Now my fronts are 1.4"drop and 1.2" rear but the problem is still there. You could only feel the shakes when accelerating bet 15-20mph then it will go away. Is there any out there with the same problem with their 9g after lowering them? Or anybody found a solution?

Thanks!

[Its Reu]

your first problem was that you went with the eibachs. Should have gotten the WORKs springs. i have an 08 ralliart lowered with no problems. take it back to the place you got the work done and have them doubl check everything.


whats the problem with eibachs? I've had them for over 4 years now and i dont have any problems....

I'd put money on it that the problem is most likely one of your axles

[stayer]

Axis not wear out evenly. You can swap the right and the left axis. It helps when worn. Balls inside the drive will begin to work in the other direction on working surfaces. However, I want to see. This occurs at high mileage (more than the 150,000 miles). As an option you can try.

[stayer]

I also recommend you to check the back mounts of the engine. Vibration may be because of the hanging mounts.

[eric2d3d]

I know this is an old thread but I am having the same problem it is a 2011 35k on it just got an alignment and put in new axles changed rims and tires 3 diffrent sets and problem is still there the car is lowered 2"

[Gotti]

Put the car up in the air and put the car in drive. See if the wheels are wobbly. Maybe bent hub.

[Silvertune]

The CV joints don't offer full movement when they're kinked so far which is what happens when you're lowered. Its in the geometry, it has nothing to do with worn out stuff. You have to put washers behind the hub to push the CV joints back together and the vibration should go away.

[dknight3]

The CV joints don't offer full movement when they're kinked so far which is what happens when you're lowered. Its in the geometry, it has nothing to do with worn out stuff. You have to put washers behind the hub to push the CV joints back together and the vibration should go away.

wow 1 person in this entire thread knows what they are talking about.
pretty sad that you get so much bad advice and the op went through so much unnecessary stuff to try and fix it.

[eric2d3d]

Where should the washers go also by lowering the car wouldent the axles be pushed further into the cv cup and lowering it would change the working angle of the cv how would washers change the angle of the cv and wouldent washers just make the cv go even further into the cup.

[Silvertune]

Your axle can't bend, you have two CV joints. At normal ride height the axle sits horizontal. Our front suspension set up does not do the whole progressive camber thing so when you drop it the knuckle maintains vertical position but rides way up in the wheel well. This causes your axle to sit angled up above the horizonal and it stretches the CV joints out to capacity when you go lower then 1.5 inches down.

With the axle angled the CV joint has a permanent bend in it. What the bend does is put a higher angle in the top of the joint than the lower angle so the bearings have to race back and forth to soak up the angle change. We have a 3 ball design and their big/beef bearings so you can feel them swapping positions at speed.

The remedy is putting spacers behind the hub over the axle. This pushes the CV joints back together so those bearings can roll along the angled axis of that joint caused by the cockeyed axle instead of flying back and forth trying to soak up more space than they geometrically can. Thus the spacers eliminate the vibration...

[eric2d3d]

Ok thanks for the info will try the spacer after work tomorrow

[eric2d3d]

Installed washers no changes installed stock springs and still same problem

[Silvertune]

If you're back at normal ride height and still having the problem then you broke something when it was lowered. Try shaking the axles, you could've destroyed the CV joints just driving it around for the little while with it so low. Age is irrelevant when you put that much stress on them.

[BIG_WILLY_831]

I agree something broke, is bent, or being overlooked. spend time on your front end and look for anything bolted to the body and engine that is designed to absorbe or diminish vibration. run the car and lift it if u need just keep it safe, check motor and trany mounts.

I've check mounts by pulling park brake step on the brake pedal firmly and shift from reverse to drive. sometimes I rev a little bit in rev and drive before I shift to look for exesive movement, I'm no pro but it's how I was taught it might help

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[BIG_WILLY_831]

And I just realized you can't lift and run the car and expect the noise to happen because of the change in working angle ma bad. Unless you use and alignment rack and lift from the lower control arm just a sughestion

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[HotWhip402]

When I slammed my car on 00-05 Eclipse springs which weren't meant for our cars, it was so low, my CV axles were kinked and caused a vibration at 15-25 mph and any mild/heavy acceleration. I raised the front up 1" and I don't have any issues anymore. The car sits level now and I have 2 fingers worth of fender gap.

[Xerojester]

I know that this is reviving an old thread, but I have this same problem. I was on coilovers. I replaced both axles and put the stock suspension back on. It still does the shudder and vibration. I will update if I find the culprit.

[Black8GV6]

probably busted endlinks

[Xerojester]

My car only has 19,000 miles on it. No matter what it is, it sucks.

[Silvertune]

How would end links cause vibration when you're accelerating?

People are stupid. When you drop your car 2 inches or more the CV joints bind and cause vibration. With your sloshy stock engine mounts and suspension the fact that you can feel vibration means your whole drivetrain is SHAKING BACK AND FORTH as you accelerate. You destory engine mounts, suspension bushings and more driving around like that. That's why the problem persists after putting it back to stock height.

[Xerojester]

Not in this case. See my thread about the solution to this problem. I have lowered many cars in my decades of tuning and never had axle biding. This felt like transmission issues and it turned out that it is a transmission issue that Mitsu even knows about.

[Silvertune]

Not in this case. See my thread about the solution to this problem. I have lowered many cars in my decades of tuning and never had axle biding. This felt like transmission issues and it turned out that it is a transmission issue that Mitsu even knows about.

Well lucky you. I've lowered more of THESE cars then you ever will. They fucking axle bind especially when they get older.

[Xerojester]

Why just Galants, I wonder? My 4G Eclipse never did and they have the same suspension.

[Silvertune]

No they don't. Not even close. 4g's use the 27 spline output shafts with chromoly CV cages that come in the Evo... Wayyyyy better hardware then Galants and 3g's. Besides 4g's are designed with a lower suspension geometry in mind from the get go. Our CV joints are at 90* at the monster truck ride height. A 3" drop puts a solid 15 degree angle into them which when introduced to load, causes binding.

[Xerojester]

Wait, you give me negative feedback for providing a real solution as opposed to your guess? Fuck you, you know-it all piece of shit.

[Silvertune]

No, fuck you worthless idiot piece of shit. Get the fuck out of here you novice. Go play with your legos.

[Galantman03]

Wait, you give me negative feedback for providing a real solution as opposed to your guess? Fuck you, you know-it all piece of shit.

"Know it alls" on this forum know their ish, and Silvertune is right.

[Xerojester]

Novice? I have been doing this since 1986. Funny that my Galant axle part number is Mr980076 and so is my Eclipse's. They must be entirely different.

[Xerojester]

I came in thus thread offering a real world right now solution to help others who might have the same issue. So anyway, for those who care, Mitsubishi has a service bulletin out about the TCC causing shuddering after lockup at 25 mph.

[Silvertune]

Cool. 28 years in automotive and you finally figured out that you should read the factory service bulletin. Something every car owner in history should do when they buy their fucking car. Especially mitsubishi owners with automatic transmissions. They're only the single most troublesome part in Mitsubishi history. In automotive history. Do you want a certificate for your meritocracy? A pat on the back for doing something logical? A cookie? What is it that will remove the sand from your vagina and make you smile once again? How many times to did you repeat kindergarten?

And you're right, I forgot you're dealing with the worthless fat pig garbage box land barge that is the 9g. Purchased only by those most horrendously misguided in either their taste in cars or unwillingness to drive any other vehicle in it's class before committing buyer's crime and jumping the gun on buying one. Yes, they use the same axles, but no, they are hardly comparable cars. Even the fucking wikipedia article on the 4g mentions suspension revisions allowing the 4g to ride lower. But hey, no one does research anymore.

Torque converter chatter is actually quite common, most people aren't smart enough to realize that their car is vibrating and half of them that do realize it don't realize it's not supposed to do it. Funny though how Mitsubishi just adds some molasses in and it goes away. I guess smooth slip is better then chatter. Fuck it probably lasts longer that way too and given the fact that nobody is retarded enough to put a lifetime worth of miles on a 9g it's never a surprise that it drives like a garbage truck.

All the same, you've offered no input on the initial and far more common problem which you spent two pages bitching about. Your torque converter didn't magically start chattering the day you put drop springs on your milk carton. The fact of the matter is mitsubishi uses a shitty CV joint setup and that's simply how it is, when ricers lower their car they start binding. Really the worst part about it is the grease, the chromoly cages only flex enough to keep from breaking when performance oriented enthusiasts make them something worth getting off the line but the grease overheats and quits lubricating further encouraging binding.

Ultimately however the problem comes from the CV joint wear pattern. At stock height the joint will wear a 3/4 inch line into the CV cup, a surprising amount of material loss occurs. Then when the car gets dropped the lobes have to travel onto areas in the cup that are not worn down causing a drivetrain oscillation from the immediate acceleration and deceleration bumps as it travels up and down the ridges.

And yes. It takes no more than 19000 miles in one of these barges to get the wear patterns.

QE Fucking D.

[BIG_WILLY_831]

I came in thus thread offering a real world right now solution to help others who might have the same issue. So anyway, for those who care, Mitsubishi has a service bulletin out about the TCC causing shuddering after lockup at 25 mph.

Thanks. I am one the the few who believe not every car has the same problem regardless of how common it is there is always that possibility of it being something else. I usually take forum answers for a grain of salt anyways it just gives me something to check i might not have thought of during my diagnostics not the absolute finas answer.

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[Silvertune]

Ah yes... one of those people who think they're magically above the obvious defects in a platform. I hate customers like you who come barging in and whine about some other world problem when it's just as basic as it gets. The drama must turn them on.

Of course, nobody is saying vibration can't stem from other sources. Everything in your drivetrain spins, oscillation of momentum in infinite directions comes into play. But the origins of this thread lie in vibration starting with the lowering of the chassis which in the life of a vehicle is an instantaneous event and wear is not instantaneous which means only geometry can be the cause. Our poor fellow OP just happened to develop a manufacturer boo boo while his crap box was chewing up it's CV joints and he may be applauded for actually digging up a solution but it can't detract from what should be as obvious as a stripper spreading her cheeks to anyone who decides to lower their car that issues with the CV joints are going to happen whether or not their torque converter needs a shot of KY.

[BIG_WILLY_831]

So are you gonna offer a solution or keep writing a book about how its not this and not that. so far all I been reading is its the cv but you offer no solution the the problem you only keep yellig out "ITS THE CV!!!!" At least the other guy offers a solution. It might not work for everyone but like I said A grain of salt. oh and im not a "customer" I may not have all the experience in the world like everyone like to boast about but I am a tech & I fix cars. I don't know everything but I know enough to keep my job and keep expanding my hands on ezpiriance and learn as much as I can thought research, manuals, and other techs.

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[Xerojester]

Maybe Silvertune misunderstood the nature of my above post. I was trying to offer an alternative solution for people, like myself who replaced their axles and still had issues. I am used to being on sites that legitimately try to help each other out and not have a pissing contest, like Evolutionm, club4g, and ls1gto...

[BIG_WILLY_831]

Maybe Silvertune misunderstood the nature of my above post. I was trying to offer an alternative solution for people, like myself who replaced their axles and still had issues. I am used to being on sites that legitimately try to help each other out and not have a pissing contest, like Evolutionm, club4g, and ls1gto...

I agree just pitch in ideas help each other and move on not try to prove how superior you and your knowledge is or like you said have a pissing contest. Like I was told as a lil kid " if you don't have nothing nice to say shut the fuck up"

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[Xerojester]

So get this: the dealership put this stuff in my tranny called: Shudder Fixx. No joke. I wonder if they carry a can of Go Fast?

[Silvertune]

I never once said it wasn't a good thing to bring up. Obviously the average person isn't smart enough to look up the service bulletins on their car either prior to owning or even when they do. Most people are aware of mitsubishi paint cancer problems, broken wavesprings but little else.

Likewise I never once said I was the best, mentioned superiority or anything even remotely related. Forums are a game, Big Willy you little sniveling piece of worthless trash. I have spread more information amongst these forums then you could comprehend in your head if you read half of it, doesn't mean I have to be nice about it. In fact it's the very reason I get pissed off when idiots like you come on here bantering about shit that should be a given. I've spent more time attempting to share information with the masses than you will sucking off other idiots with for stupid mods over the course of your existence on this planet. Naturally I get annoyed when people fail to take 30 seconds to search out information that I spent hours compiling and posting. Furthermore, most of the problems people deal with and beneath most forms of logic. Read the fucking service bulletin. No fucking shit.

[BIG_WILLY_831]

I never once said it wasn't a good thing to bring up. Obviously the average person isn't smart enough to look up the service bulletins on their car either prior to owning or even when they do. Most people are aware of mitsubishi paint cancer problems, broken wavesprings but little else.

Likewise I never once said I was the best, mentioned superiority or anything even remotely related. Forums are a game, Big Willy you little sniveling piece of worthless trash. I have spread more information amongst these forums then you could comprehend in your head if you read half of it, doesn't mean I have to be nice about it. In fact it's the very reason I get pissed off when idiots like you come on here bantering about shit that should be a given. I've spent more time attempting to share information with the masses than you will sucking off other idiots with for stupid mods over the course of your existence on this planet. Naturally I get annoyed when people fail to take 30 seconds to search out information that I spent hours compiling and posting. Furthermore, most of the problems people deal with and beneath most forms of logic. Read the fucking service bulletin. No fucking shit.

Again you spent all this time writing all these words and your still a idiot piece of turd putting worthless input claiming to be superior. You ain't shit silvertune and all your nagging and winning makes you look like a female on her rag... keep my name out your mouth and if posting and sharing pisses you off so much STOP POSTING ON FORUMS and go talk to yourself because oviously no one cares what you have to say.

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[Xerojester]

http://24.media.tumblr.com/bea0bbe9cfa6e8c91e2490c5c46d1904/tumblr_muzx5prWVg1rkluo3o2_500.gif

[wetamup2k3g]

Guys, what the fuck? Can we be civil? Because If not I need to dust off the banhammer. Quit name calling, that goes for everybody. No more warnings.

[Palmz]

No they don't. Not even close. 4g's use the 27 spline output shafts with chromoly CV cages that come in the Evo... Wayyyyy better hardware then Galants and 3g's. Besides 4g's are designed with a lower suspension geometry in mind from the get go. Our CV joints are at 90* at the monster truck ride height. A 3" drop puts a solid 15 degree angle into them which when introduced to load, causes binding.

would raising the engine accomplish a fix to this binding issue? just spit ballin

[Silvertune]

Technically yes it would. Removing the angle from the cv joints is all it takes. That said raising the drivetrain is pretty much impossible. It'd be easy to lower, but not raise, due to how it's mounted.

[Xerojester]

Has anyone actually successfully done the spacer on the axle and had it work?

[Palmz]

Technically yes it would. Removing the angle from the cv joints is all it takes. That said raising the drivetrain is pretty much impossible. It'd be easy to lower, but not raise, due to how it's mounted.

just a little cut here little weld there some fabrication. shouldnt be that hard if you have the right tools and experience ? or am i missing something? you would only need to rise the motor mounts by like 2 inches at the most

[Silvertune]

Go look at your transmission mount and tell me how easily that could be raised. The passenger mount too.

Besides, raising the engine will astronomically ruin your handling. To the point that the car literally cannot take corners with any aggressive speed what so ever. The relation between center of gravity and mounting points for suspension components is critical.

Just don't lower your car that far. It's stupid. A straight two finger gap is clean and doesn't ruin CV joints (at least in 3g's) and I've dropped galants 2 inches without problems. If you're going to go lower than that you deserve to have problems because it's dumb.

As for the axle spacer the only one I Know who claimed it works is everybody's favorite banned member. The problem with the spacer is no standard washer actually fits over the CV splines without overlapping the knuckle and there's no way to keep it centered behind the hub. Beyond that moving the hub back moves the ABS ring out and you get the ABS light and no function from the system. While that won't matter to people with low trim level 8g's, it will matter to anyone else.

[Palmz]

Go look at your transmission mount and tell me how easily that could be raised. The passenger mount too.

Besides, raising the engine will astronomically ruin your handling. To the point that the car literally cannot take corners with any aggressive speed what so ever. The relation between center of gravity and mounting points for suspension components is critical.

Just don't lower your car that far. It's stupid. A straight two finger gap is clean and doesn't ruin CV joints (at least in 3g's) and I've dropped galants 2 inches without problems. If you're going to go lower than that you deserve to have problems because it's dumb.

As for the axle spacer the only one I Know who claimed it works is everybody's favorite banned member. The problem with the spacer is no standard washer actually fits over the CV splines without overlapping the knuckle and there's no way to keep it centered behind the hub. Beyond that moving the hub back moves the ABS ring out and you get the ABS light and no function from the system. While that won't matter to people with low trim level 8g's, it will matter to anyone else.

yeah i was thinking about this on the jdm when i had the trans out i think cutting the mount or even makeing a new one wouldn't be more than a days work. but im not going to be lowering mine for while i was just creating conversation

[Silvertune]

Cast aluminum is outside the welding capabilities of even a significant percentage of very skilled welders. Especially the crap Mitsubishi uses which is like a combination of butter and sand as far as working properties. The "easy" way would be to pour you're worn urethane mounts and drill holes higher in the bushing but that'll limit mount life and make it very uncomfortable in terms of chassis vibration.

Also keep in mind that the average person looking to drop 3 inches doesn't typically harbor any fabricating skill to begin with.

[Xerojester]

Just don't lower your car that far. It's stupid. A straight two finger gap is clean and doesn't ruin CV joints (at least in 3g's) and I've dropped galants 2 inches without problems. If you're going to go lower than that you deserve to have problems because it's dumb.
Sadly, on the 9g, a two finger gap is almost three inches with our monster-truck wheel gap. lol
This is mine with a 2" drop:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/Xerojester/IMAG0415_zps8262edf0.jpg (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/Xerojester/media/IMAG0415_zps8262edf0.jpg.html)


As for the axle spacer the only one I Know who claimed it works is everybody's favorite banned member. The problem with the spacer is no standard washer actually fits over the CV splines without overlapping the knuckle and there's no way to keep it centered behind the hub. Beyond that moving the hub back moves the ABS ring out and you get the ABS light and no function from the system. While that won't matter to people with low trim level 8g's, it will matter to anyone else.
This is exactly what I figured. It did not sound viable.

[Silvertune]

There are a ton of variables that come in to play really. The general trend is that when these things get dropped past a certain point the CV's bind but I've dealt with some examples where that isn't the case. Take gojirars car, dropped probably 4 inches on coilovers and his car accelerates smoothly. Now, that is the four banger. The cv binding issues increase astronomically with output, 95% of the cars I deal with the problem on are V6's. Particularly when the 3.8 comes into play. But new dealership axles have remedied it in a couple instances.

I've done a couple 3.8's in cars that were already on aftermarket axles (parts store cheapos) and those axles have blown in a single autox event or in other cases not lasted a month of daily driving. On one car I had they bound up with brand new parts store axles. These all being manual cars mind you.

The OEM joints are the best we've got since DSS Doesn't make our axles anymore and when they did they costed twice a set of coilovers anyway. If I want to make a care look real nice I'll drop it down no more than two inches and run one step up a tire size. Just the little bit makes a huge difference and it typically increases performance anyway. That said, my efforts have always been for performance. To me, not dropping way down isn't a big deal because I'd rather have a little more wheel gap than shear axles off making 500 pounds of torque.

[Galantman03]

^ what about smoothing out the wear areas on the axle cup itself?
Would that get rid of that vibration?
What about using brand new oem axles after you lower it?
I know that evo cups can't fit the I4 because evos dont have stub axles on the cups, but do v6 axle cups have stubs? Or are they like evo axles?

[Xerojester]

It may be different on the 9Gs, but I can drop mine another one to two inches without altering too much of the axle angle (coilovers only, since I can adjust the camber pretty heavily). Keep in mind, mine is a 2.4l, so I don't have the same issues as the V6. One other guy on here that is also on club4g.or is slammed. He has no axle binding at all. Of course over time, that may very well change. It seems hit-or-miss.

[antigen_dw]

after reading this thread, I am now afraid of lowering my 9g. Maybe I'll just stick with 18's