Need Help from the TGC family

[Galantfan88]

Well it has come down to this my good friends...I want to sell my 2002 Galant. I have put so much time and effort into it and as of right now I give up becasue I do not have any more time to really work on her. The engine is running and sounds strong but for some reason compression all across the 4 cylinder its showing 95 psi and when doing the wet test it jumped up to 180 psi. I do not know if there is really something wrong with the rings or they just didnt seat yet,, but what ever it is I can not do this no more. :sad:

I am so tired right now and want to sell her but do not know for how much...what is a good price to sell this car for with somany mods done to it? She drives around with a basic map on it and its running extreamly rich but still pulls but after running for almost an hour she starts to die out, mostly feels like the spark on the spark plugs are dying out. Everything else works except for the speedo did not wire that up at all. Can anyone help me figue out what to price her at. Thanks for the time and help guys...this does not make me happy but like my friend says "If it becomes more of a chore than fun, time to sell it."

Mods Done:
Exterior:
Full JDM conversion (Needs re-painting but can hardly tell)
Evo 8 rims
Eibach springs 1.25'' drop
KYB SHOCKS AND STRUTS
Prothan bushings on front and read sway bars
tie bar
Brand New tie rods and control arms

Interior:
ProSport gauges


Engine: (Handle up to 600 hp)
2.4l 4 cyl engine 86.5 stock to a 87.0mm bore size (.20) over
CP Pistons 87mm / 8:5.1 compression
Eagle Rods
Stock 100mm brand new crank shaft
Clevite 77 main, rod bearings, and thrust
ARP main studs
Balance shaft delete
AC Delete

Head:
Single cam RPW Stage 3 turbo camshaft (272/272) Lobe Centre Line 112 Degrees
Beehive valve springs
OBX camshaft
OBX turbo manifold
2.75'' custom exhaust
2003 outlander Intake manifold
OMNI POWER 4 BAR MAP SENSOR
Evo 8 Throttle Body
Evo 8 AEM fuel rail/w aeromotive FPR/WALBRO fuel pump
Evo 8 stock injectors with resistor box
HKS Twin Power Ignition/thicker spark plugs...forgot the name.
Cosmetic head gasket
Evo 8 Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto intercooler
13 row oil cooler
Mishimoto racing fan
ARP Head studs
Brakes:
Evo 8 BREMBO front brakes

Turbo:

TURBONETICS TURBO

COMPRESSOR HOUSING: A/R 60 "3" IN, 2" OUT

COMPRESSOR WHEEL: 60MM INDUCER, 82MM EXDUCER

CHRA: OIL COOLER

EXHAUST HOUSING: T3 A/R 48

EXHAUST WHEEL: T31 STAGE III

Tranny:
Switched from Auto to 5 speed Manuel transmission from an 3g eclipse
Short shifter with stiffer bushing and bras bushing on shifter links
ACT Clutch
fidanza flywheel

Computer:
Evo 8 ECU with a Boomslang conversion harness to match into my engine harness.

[Blue8g]

You're better off parting out.

I doubt you'll get more than 3-4k even with all the mods it has.

[Galantfan88]

You're better off parting out.

I doubt you'll get more than 3-4k even with all the mods it has.

Thats what I was afraid of, and finding the time to part it out.

[carl3g]

Jesus, I honestly think you shouldn't sell it.

If you must, id say part it as well. Im guessing 8k is too much? Im not familiar with the costs of gallants yet.

[keith6110]

Just keep it if you have a place to store it. You'll have time at some point to come back and take another whack at it I'm sure. You'll never get your money back out of it even if you take the time to part it out. Just saying; you'll be happier keeping it and figuring it out another day.

[littlejuanito]

Well it has come down to this my good friends...I want to sell my 2002 Galant. I have put so much time and effort into it and as of right now I give up becasue I do not have any more time to really work on her. "If it becomes more of a chore than fun, time to sell it."



I share your feeling and although my car is not modded at all, it is in dire need of maintenace repairs and I'm already contemplating 190,000 miles. I feel like sometimes is not worth the time and money when the car is only worth around 3K at best. Shoot, I even spent $1200 (what my car is probably worth now) replacing a busted timing belt.

I'm also debating selling it to buy a newer-less mileage car

[fatal1]

the majoprity of people wont appreciate the value of the car nor the parts in it. we may know what is in it and how much time and money it cost but most people will look at it as a good looking non running car lol. you will certainly make more money parting it out. and if you do plan on selling it as a whole, ir would really be tough to get more then 2k for it

[Isaurio]

Wtf dude. Dont sell it. Bro you can not just do engine work and slap a turbo and change the ecu and call it a day. You need a super tune when you do a block from scratch. If you runing the stock evo map, it wont work. Since the 64 is a bigger bore and deck then the 63. Also higher cams needs tuning. Big time. If you dont have compression maybe is a bad timing advance and fue on the ecu map. If you running to rich you losse power and the spark wont burn the fuel stalling the car. Just think about it. Tune the crap out of it. And take it slow. You need 1k of break in. The engine wont settle before that. Dont expect to run 100% just of a few starts. Ecu needs weeks to get a stable fuel trims with your settup to get you running 100%. i could change one thing of the map to make the car run like shit. What i mean you need a tune and work and work with the computer.

[underated]

are the numbers pretty even across all 4 cylinders? just because they are reading 95 doesnt mean something is wrong. you have lower then stock compression ratio and you have a 272 cam. both of those things will lower you readings. have you retarded the timing at all? if so that will lower your numbers also. you said the engine sounds strong so what the problem? "Its running rich" i dont see anything about injectors on that list get it tuned and enjoy it. you cant do things half assed and expect it to turnout well. yes modding a car is a lot of time, effort and money. there are a lot of nice cars on here i dont think people really understand what goes into it to correctly do things.

good luck to you bro i hope you keep it and everything turns out well for you.

[deeznutz]

Dude selling or parting out at this point is foolish and dumb your almost there with your build you have all the right tools but a poor execution! Your whole problem is tuning what you need to do is have someone like Isaurio or Matt set up a base tune and correct your maps, you shouldn't have even have started it without a base tune your risking a freshly built motor and if you continue to run it your going to wind up with not much to part out you'll be left with a junk motor. There are plenty of people here that understand your frustration but you have to push. There's too much time and money put into it already to give up now when it can all be corrected by 1 or 2 people

[Galantfan88]

Wtf dude. Dont sell it. Bro you can not just do engine work and slap a turbo and change the ecu and call it a day. You need a super tune when you do a block from scratch. If you runing the stock evo map, it wont work. Since the 64 is a bigger bore and deck then the 63. Also higher cams needs tuning. Big time. If you dont have compression maybe is a bad timing advance and fue on the ecu map. If you running to rich you losse power and the spark wont burn the fuel stalling the car. Just think about it. Tune the crap out of it. And take it slow. You need 1k of break in. The engine wont settle before that. Dont expect to run 100% just of a few starts. Ecu needs weeks to get a stable fuel trims with your settup to get you running 100%. i could change one thing of the map to make the car run like shit. What i mean you need a tune and work and work with the computer.

I know man I must be going mad or something. Im so use to mustang motors and how quickly they are built and running making big number, and thats what I get for hanging out with mustang owners.lol The car has not reached the 1k mark yet so maybe I am taking this alil to far. Motor sounds great only this is at first when starting the motor it has trouble catching idle but after i start second time with alil rev it catches on. No leaks nor ticking sounds, nor smoke from the pipe which means no birning oil expect at first cold start up after goes away. Right now it hold idle at 1k RPM and has 18 psi in oil pressure on worm engine. Your right about the tunning, it needs alot of time spent on tunning and makeing everything work together. I thought after a lil bit of time the compression would build, I didnt think it took after 1k miles. Timing has not been delt with yet and I believe they did placed a bass map from an Evo 8 so Im ganna have to have them really work on it. Thanks bro for everything and giving me strength to keep going.



are the numbers pretty even across all 4 cylinders? just because they are reading 95 doesnt mean something is wrong. you have lower then stock compression ratio and you have a 272 cam. both of those things will lower you readings. have you retarded the timing at all? if so that will lower your numbers also. you said the engine sounds strong so what the problem? "Its running rich" i dont see anything about injectors on that list get it tuned and enjoy it. you cant do things half assed and expect it to turnout well. yes modding a car is a lot of time, effort and money. there are a lot of nice cars on here i dont think people really understand what goes into it to correctly do things.

good luck to you bro i hope you keep it and everything turns out well for you.

Hey man, I havnt retarted the timing at all...right now cam set at 0 degrees. Like I said before I thought by now comprerssion would build at least 120 psi, and when I did a wet test it jumped at 180 so that got me so worried.lol Right now I have stock Evo 8 injectors 550cc and I dont think Turbo Trix really looked into what I have in the engine. I asked if they needed to know and they told me no.lol Next time when I go imma have to really lay it down to them. I have put alot of time and money and I mean alot of money into her and it would be a sham and stupid move of me to sell it just like that with out really breaking in the motor. Thanks buddy.

[Galantfan88]

Dude selling or parting out at this point is foolish and dumb your almost there with your build you have all the right tools but a poor execution! Your whole problem is tuning what you need to do is have someone like Isaurio or Matt set up a base tune and correct your maps, you shouldn't have even have started it without a base tune your risking a freshly built motor and if you continue to run it your going to wind up with not much to part out you'll be left with a junk motor. There are plenty of people here that understand your frustration but you have to push. There's too much time and money put into it already to give up now when it can all be corrected by 1 or 2 people

Well as I was told by Turbo Trix theres a base map on the ECU right now but not sure if its the right one after this a couple of post from people on this forum.lol There are times when I have no idea if I can really trust Turbo Trix or not. Should I just take it straight to a tunner and have it tuned fully? Right now its eating up gas like crazy.

[deeznutz]

That would be a step in the right direction but I think Matt or Isaurio would be alot cheaper for you and more trustworthy not only that you might get a Lil education as well!!!! Is that base map for what's in the car now? You shouldn't even run it to its full potential till its properly broken in anyways.

[Isaurio]

^^^ you right my friend

No problem bro. We are here to help you out. Just to give you a little push

You need to tune and run the car for min 750 miles, 1k to be safe. On the mean while you need to tune the computer on the breaking process. Since the value will change as the engine breaks in and settle.

Questions for you....

1. What MAF are you using? stock 501 or evo 399?
2. What are the injectors scaling and latency on the ROM
3. What MAF scaling, filter and smoothing are you using *current on the rom*
4 What are your idle timing map looks like. from 750RPM to 1000RPM. Loads from 0 to 40 loads
5. What is the min temperature at close loop. I ask this you should have a value of 40 with 272 cams NOT 7.

[Galantfan88]

^^^ you right my friend

No problem bro. We are here to help you out. Just to give you a little push

You need to tune and run the car for min 750 miles, 1k to be safe. On the mean while you need to tune the computer on the breaking process. Since the value will change as the engine breaks in and settle.

Questions for you....

1. What MAF are you using? stock 501 or evo 399?
2. What are the injectors scaling and latency on the ROM
3. What MAF scaling, filter and smoothing are you using *current on the rom*
4 What are your idle timing map looks like. from 750RPM to 1000RPM. Loads from 0 to 40 loads
5. What is the min temperature at close loop. I ask this you should have a value of 40 with 272 cams NOT 7.

Well to answer question # 1 Im using speed density, they placed an OMNI POWER 4 BAR MAP SENSOR on the car. All other questions I have no clue bc I didnt plug the car in I left it with Turbo Trix to figure most of this stuff out.

I tried to message you but its full so imma just place the message here for you:

Hey bro, you seem to know alot about setting up an ECU to where it needs to be and I mean alot. If you have time or any way of helping me please let me know. Can you help me tune my ECU to where it needs to be? If you dont its ok man I still have Turbo Trix, but I would need to keep a close eye with them. Let me know buddy and thank for your help and time.

[underated]

definatly let Isaurio help you out man. one thing you'll learn and im sorry you had to learn this way is evo tuners dont care about anything other then evo's. like you said yourself they didnt even ask you what you had done to the car. you gotta find people like Isaurio or andrew over on club3g who care about this platform enough to tune your car right.

dp you have a tatrix cable and ecuflash and evoscan?

[Isaurio]

Yeah man. Email me at [email protected]. Or text me lol. Im trying to resolve a membership problem.

Uff SD. Im not a fan of SD. One when you tune with SD you cant not mod the car without going back and tune the maps again. Is like you tune the computer everything is great but later you go crazy and want to change the intake mani or head. You need to go back and re-tune all the maps again because the values will change and you dont have nothing to self re-adjust like the maf.

When you in SD. Is only reading from the maps and o2 for trims. If the map are off just a little the whole shit is fuck up. The maf is great because it self adjust when you add any mods to the engine.

Your maps needs to be 110% to run SD. If not you will have cold start probles and other issues.

I will go back to a evo maf for the breaking procces then when the maps are 100% stable you could jump to SD. Only my 2 cents.

Go point. You need a tatrix cable and evo scan to do some logs. Also ecuflash to pull the rom. Also a knock sensor to see any knock so u wont fuck up the pistons and other parts. And a afr wideband port so u could log your afrs.

[Galantfan88]

Yeah man. Email me at [email protected]. Or text me lol. Im trying to resolve a membership problem.

Uff SD. Im not a fan of SD. One when you tune with SD you cant not mod the car without going back and tune the maps again. Is like you tune the computer everything is great but later you go crazy and want to change the intake mani or head. You need to go back and re-tune all the maps again because the values will change and you dont have nothing to self re-adjust like the maf.

When you in SD. Is only reading from the maps and o2 for trims. If the map are off just a little the whole shit is fuck up. The maf is great because it self adjust when you add any mods to the engine.

Your maps needs to be 110% to run SD. If not you will have cold start probles and other issues.

I will go back to a evo maf for the breaking procces then when the maps are 100% stable you could jump to SD. Only my 2 cents.

Go point. You need a tatrix cable and evo scan to do some logs. Also ecuflash to pull the rom. Also a knock sensor to see any knock so u wont fuck up the pistons and other parts. And a afr wideband port so u could log your afrs.

Damn I should of listend to my friend, he told me not to use it bc I was going to run into problems. :075:

Reason why I used SD was bc the turbo was alil to close to the fan and I could really fit the intake pipe and MAF there but Ill find a way around it since the MAF is a better choice for this. Now question is do I have to use an Evo MAF or can I still use the Galant MAF bc I still have the in the trunk of my car?

Yeah Turbo Trix was a hit or miss bc when I brought my car to them it was kinda weird at first. I told them I needed a basic tune and all this guy named Keith said was ok and didnt ask for my keys or what was in the engine or what mods I have done. I mean at lest they got it started but still. I need someone that will be careful and is dedicated to this stuff...its really hard to find people like that out there.

Also forgot to ask...how the heck do I take the SD off? I believe its loaded up on the ECU i have

[deeznutz]

Being that your boosted and the ECM should have the scaling already the evos is the one you should use..

[Isaurio]

Yeah. I will go with a evo maf or a eclipse gts maf. Yes the SD is all in the rom within the ECU. You could always flash back a stock rom. We could find the stock rom with the current ECU ROM ID you have now.

[Galantfan88]

Yeah. I will go with a evo maf or a eclipse gts maf. Yes the SD is all in the rom within the ECU. You could always flash back a stock rom. We could find the stock rom with the current ECU ROM ID you have now.

Ok I already found an Eclipse GTS MAF for a good price, alot cheaper than the Evo MAF. Ok since Im ganna go with you on tunning how can we make this work out? I need the cable and everything else right? Its also a matter how I get to you with the car also.lol

[Isaurio]

http://forums.evolutionm.net/sale-engine-drivetrain-power/580531-evo-8-maf-sesnor-blox-adj-cam-gear-one.html

GET THIS ONE VERY CHEEP FOR A EVO $60

[Galantfan88]

http://forums.evolutionm.net/sale-engine-drivetrain-power/580531-evo-8-maf-sesnor-blox-adj-cam-gear-one.html

GET THIS ONE VERY CHEEP FOR A EVO $60

I pm'ed the guy so hopefuly he still has it and Ill ge that one, good eye on that.

I dont know if you saw the other thing i put down but how do we make this work out...on tunning the car? I know you live in NY in the Bronx and I live in NJ in Carteret, this is my only problem is how do I ge tthe car to you? I mean if this cant work out at all and you dont have time its all good, but just need to know what I need and what I need to do in order for this to work out. Ill email you more about this so keep an eye on your email.

[Isaurio]

We work something out. Maybe i will have to make a few trips over there. But everything you could do it your self for now. Like install the maf. pull out rom, log a few sensors. Nothing crazy at the beginning.

[carl3g]

Idk if yall done it yet but y'all should trade numbers. The responses between mags would be faster than waiting for each other to post. Just a heads up.

[Faction]

Ah I see you got screwed by Turbotrix too and now its bringing you down? Don't feel alone brotha. Ask them about the 08' EVO X from FL, the one with the stroker motor they built, then blew up and wouldn't take responsibility that it was THEIR FAULT. It ran GREAT, made 586awhp, minus that it used a quart or two of oil every 500 miles. Then a valve went through piston #3 while cruising. On another note, oil never looked normal, always looked like graphite, as if the pistons were too small for the cylinder. One thing is, they half ass everything for an outrageous amount. I have never heard of anyone having good results from TT unless it is TT's own vehicles.

I say keep the car and find a REPUTABLE SHOP.



(actually, don't ask them about the 08' EVO X from FL lol. was being sarcastic)

[carl3g]

Jesus, akunamotorsports is a reputable shop in NJ. Call them with questions.

[deeznutz]

He's got all the support he needs right here!

[carl3g]

all he needs is a tow to your spot lol

[Isaurio]

Nahh we could take a nice trip to help a member out. First, we need to take it one step at a time. Starting low and slow. To break in a engine is like taking care a new born baby. Slow patient and let the engine do its thing. You need to learn how to walk before you run.

Break in
Low boost
Keep the setup as simple as posible
Them at 1k we could start adding goodies.

[Galantfan88]

Hey guys thanks for the help, and Isaurio I got your text but my phone is acting crazy and wont let me do much so this week im getting a new phone to work with. I been contacting that one member on the Evo forrum and he does still have the maf which is good. The other day I took a look at my turbo set up and it seems that my rad fan is in the way and it would be impossible for me to fit anything there so right now Im looking for my mishimoto racing fan I have to put on that side. I have one on the outside pushinging air in and the other pulling, but if I cant find the other one i have ill buy a slim fan from Jegs.

[Galantfan88]

Jesus, akunamotorsports is a reputable shop in NJ. Call them with questions.

Damn Carl good eye thats near me, Ill give them a call with some info. Dosnt hurt to collect as much info as I can and Isaurio is 110% right...it takes time to brake in a motor. I have to let it just run and do its thing "Baby Staps" but I am so greatful for all of you helping me out, the TGC family counldt get any better than this.

[Blue8g]

Pssh, break the engine in hard and fast.

[mrg7243]

Pssh, break the engine in hard and fast.

True way to do it, these motors arent like the motors of the old days. If it is going blow it will within the first 5 miles. There are several writes ups on this.

[deeznutz]

Pssh, break the engine in hard and fast.


True way to do it, these motors arent like the motors of the old days. If it is going blow it will within the first 5 miles. There are several writes ups on this.

This is partially true wisco only requires a 1 hour break in period at mild driving but the problem isn't there he is not fully tuned yet and that where the problem lyes so hard and fast is not a wise choice!!!

[Isaurio]

Pssh, break the engine in hard and fast.

Reported

[Galantfan88]

I just checked out Akuma Motorsports just bc it was 7 min away from where I work and damn....the place is awesome, and met John who is the owner of Akuma. Awesome guy, he took his time to sit and talk to me about my car. Thanx Carl for finding this place for me bc he showed me his shop and damn its clean, well organized, and they love what they do. John said if I want to make sure everything is ok with the motor before doing a full tune he told me we can do a leak down test and compression test on the car together so that we know that their might be something wrong with motor and he will take a look at the mess TurboTrix has placed on the ECU. I said the name TurboTrix and he laughed really hard...told he that he was sorry, it was a good joke to start off the new year.lol So tom ganna tow it and get a leak down test, after that Ill up date you Isaurio about what thay say and if everything looks good i will continue with the full tune. Youll be the first one to know.

[Isaurio]

Thanks buddy. Let me know. What type of work does the shop does. I want to do some machine work on a head.

[Galantfan88]

Check out their website bro, they seem to do alot of work on many different types of cars and types of machine work.

http://www.akumamotorsports.com/

[carl3g]

Akuma does all types of work. I learned about Akuma because they have an amazing clean bugeye and like 2 R35 being built for the 1/4 mile. Glad I was able to help out in any way Jesus.

Link to clean bugeye: http://www.akumamotorsports.com/media/shop-projects/akuma-wrx.html
The owner is named Dmoney on NASIOC and its an award winner.

[Isaurio]

Nice i will have to give them a call.

[Guzm4n]

Link to clean bugeye: http://www.akumamotorsports.com/media/shop-projects/akuma-wrx.html
The owner is named Dmoney on NASIOC and its an award winner.

His ride was featured on modified.

[qnz]

havent been following up on this thread. Don't take it to Akuma. Dont take it to turbotrix. lol

Jesus, I was in the same position as you. My car looked great but ran real shitty for 1/2 a year. It took me 3 different "pro" tuners before I found one that actually knew what they were doing. After seeing how a real pro tuned, I could tell how much the other shops just didnt care. When you finally get your car dialed in, you will love it again. This I know

[qnz]

Whoops. Guess I'm a few posts too late. Akuma is the new shop in town but same old stories that you hear about every other North East shop.

They have some good reviews too, but I hear enough things that would make me cautious about them also

[Blue8g]

This is partially true wisco only requires a 1 hour break in period at mild driving but the problem isn't there he is not fully tuned yet and that where the problem lyes so hard and fast is not a wise choice!!!

Didn't even think about that, good call.

[qnz]

Pssh, break the engine in hard and fast.


Reported

Some people claim that this is the best way to break in a engine. Ive seen cars with single digit miles on the odometer making passes on the track

[deeznutz]

Didn't even think about that, good call.

When I build an engine trust me I go in on it right out the gate but as a safety precaution making sure that everything else is in place first is the smart way to go. When I finished up my current 3.5 and pulled it out the driveway Isaurio was like take it easy, I said ok 2 seconds later I dumped the clutch at 5000 and left 2 tire marks for 20 feet... Lol

[Isaurio]

Some people claim that this is the best way to break in a engine. Ive seen cars with single digit miles on the odometer making passes on the track

Not every engine is the same. You said it single passes. I bet after that they need to change the headgasket or even all the engine berings. A american race long block like ford is different than a jdm block. So the break in are different. If you want a engine to last a long time it needs to be donde the right way.

[Isaurio]

When I build an engine trust me I go in on it right out the gate but as a safety precaution making sure that everything else is in place first is the smart way to go. When I finished up my current 3.5 and pulled it out the driveway Isaurio was like take it easy, I said ok 2 seconds later I dumped the clutch at 5000 and left 2 tire marks for 20 feet... Lol

Lol. Exacly. Look it now. Fuck up clutch. Lol. U should have listen to me.

[deeznutz]

Lol can I help it if the clutch is crap! It would have broke either way...

[mrg7243]

Not every engine is the same. You said it single passes. I bet after that they need to change the headgasket or even all the engine berings. A american race long block like ford is different than a jdm block. So the break in are different. If you want a engine to last a long time it needs to be donde the right way.

Every motor nowadays is broke in the same, back in the 60s 70s and 80s the thought was to go slow and gentle, this was because most shops were not tight with the clearances and the cylinder honing process was not as advanced. The rings would take awhile to seat, now that different. Buschur, AMS, and many more now have a hard and fast break in. The guy who did my head in Maryland, builds 8 second street motors on a daily basis and that is how he tells his clients to break them, hard and fast.

[Blue8g]

A perished clutch doesn't mean the engine was broken in improperly lol

[deeznutz]

^^^ true it was just crap spec clutch

[Galantfan88]

These stories can go either way but just like Isaurio said, each engine is different. I know American engines you can just build it right up and the best way to brake in a muscle engine is to brake it in fast, but for imports it could be different. Iv had different people and shops tel me different. I rather be safe than sorry...so far its been sorry for me.lol but after the leak down test that will give me the idea whats going on in the engine.

[Blue8g]

Call up Cosworth haha. They make parts for the 4g6x engines and if I'm going to trust anyone in the world, its them

[Isaurio]

^^^ true it was just crap spec clutch

you found out is crap. But remember we added some extra ponie to the equation and torque. If you would take it easy maybe she would be ready for tune.

[Isaurio]

Call up Cosworth haha. They make parts for the 4g6x engines and if I'm going to trust anyone in the world, its them

What you not understanding is that the whole engine was not made of cosworth parts. There are mix parts in there, every part has their breaking points. Thats why you need to tune the eninge get a few miles on each parts so it could settle and advoid variables.
We not in a rush here to break in the engine. We want to be safe on what is going on with the internals.

[Blue8g]

What you not understanding is that the whole engine was not made of cosworth parts. There are mix parts in there, every part has their breaking points. Thats why you need to tune the eninge get a few miles on each parts so it could settle and advoid variables.
We not in a rush here to break in the engine. We want to be safe on what is going on with the internals.

Its your car now?

[mrg7243]

Here is some information I want to get out there.

The 4g63 is not a small block Chevy. You do NOT crank it with the fuel disconnected or the ignition unplugged to prime the oiling system. If you truly wanted to try and prime the oiling system before starting a new engine you would need to leave the timing belt off and crank the oil pump seperately. Same thing if you DID have a small block Chevy, you'd spin the oil pump through the distributor hole.

This next stuff applies to OUR ENGINES. I don't care about some other shop or some other machine shop that did YOUR work. Don't ask as I could care less.

For our engines. IF you put your head on, timed it etc. and installed the engine in your car AND you have everything exactly right, the engine should start and run almost immediately after trying to start it. When it does hold the engine at around 1500-2000 rpm and let it stay there. Check it for leaks while it is doing this, check it for anything out of the ordinary. If you are using a standalone check the AFR's, look at the knock count etc. Dial in your AFR's a little so it is where it needs to be to run at this RPM. Hopefully you have a map that is right in the first place and you can just let it run. While the car is warming up the lifters will quiet down as the oil pressure builds and the air gets out of the lifters. Check the coolant, watch the coolant temps.

DO NOT just crank the engine to attempt to build oil pressure, it WILL BUILD INSTANTLY IF THE CAR STARTS.

ALL of our engines are built/assembled with a special lube. It is very sticky. I basically fill the crank shaft with it, so there is quite a bit of lube there and everything is very well coated. The engine could probably actually run with NO oil in it for a few minutes with no damage, we don't want that obviously.

Point is to TRIPLE check every single thing on the car first and then it should start instantly and run.

Once you are sure there are no leaks of any type and everything is tight and triple checked again you can either start some low throttle tuning or go for a drive.

As long as everything is 100% I could care less about a break in. Engines built here/assembled here and installed here are broken in on the dyno about 90% of the time. I have maps perfected for any combination we have. So the car is checked, loaded on the dyno. The idle, part throttle tuning is gone over and a few miles are put on the car at light loads to make sure it runs great and the AFR's are good. I do all the fuel mileage calibrations right on the dyno too. When this is done, the car is looked over again and then the tuning at low boost levels (20 psi or whatever) is done. I generally do the pump gas tunes first so the boost levels are lowest. As soon as they are done then the car is turned up and tuned on race gas if that is part of the build.

It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that. Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete bullshit. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over.

David Buschur

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/scrp_0701_racing_engine_break_in/index.html

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

Not sure if you know who Bj(boostxealot) is, but he has built several v6 hybrid monster motors and builds motors for evos in his spare time. Everyone one the motors he has built has 1 not only failed but 2 is built to hold at least 650hp. He uses the same procedure as listed above.

[Isaurio]

Mrg. I know who people are. Every tuner or engine builder has its own techniques on how to do certain things. First our block is not desing as a racing block. All the parts we put it works but it dont mean is for our blocks to work like a factory built. If you want to run it hard and fast by all mean do it.

[Isaurio]

Its your car now?

Dude if you not going to help. Zip it. Just by saying. Break in hard and fast you not saying shit. Bring in facts to the table.

So what are you trying to say that is the car mine? Comments like that makes me lose respect for you or whatever you have to say. I have done more for the galant community in less than a year than you ever will in a life time. So do me the favor if you are not going to bring nothing to the table with facts and educated ideas, go play with your ugly ass rims. Thanks.

[mrg7243]

Mrg. I know who people are. Every tuner or engine builder has its own techniques on how to do certain things. First our block is not desing as a racing block. All the parts we put it works but it dont mean is for our blocks to work like a factory built. If you want to run it hard and fast by all mean do it.

You stick to tuning, and Ill stick to building:party:

[Isaurio]

Lol. Let me know when you are donde with yours. I dont say much about building because i dont like to show off. I have two projects that im doing. I have to say my mods are solid.

[Blue8g]

As solid as your mad tyte graphics? OBX header?

[mko]

Graphics look fine.

Stay on topic and keep it clean and civilized, people.

[Isaurio]

As solid as your mad tyte graphics? OBX header?

Graphics. Dude is all bmw paint. Obx is just fine nothing wrong with that.

Lol you are a funny kid im not going to argue with you. When you come with something good let me know.

Yeah let stay on topic. Sorry galantfan there are some member here that talks thru their ass. You know my number hit me up. Im done giving my opinion here and wasting my time.

[Galantfan88]

Wow I seem to have missed alot on my thread here.lol OBX headers are solid I been always using OBX headers, but thats all I used from OBX.

Well here’s the update everyone, tests show that the engine is dead. Cylinder 3 and 4 are very low (95 psi) and cylinders 1 and 2....no even worth saying how bad it was.lol John said it was prob bc when Turbo Trix tuned the car they tuned it so rich that it washed the cylinder walls down and damaged the piston rings pretty badly. So its not getting the compression I need and the power. =(

But you know what, I have decided bc of that I am not stopping here Oooooo nonono my name isnt Jesus for nothin. This just means time so sell some parts and get a nice Evo 8 engine inside that bad boy. I really want to make this happen and work so Ill be posting some parts up for sale and hopefully find a pretty nice Evo engine out there to put in.

[Faction]

TT is a bunch of shitbags anyways. Anything they touch goes to shit.

[carl3g]

Jesus, did you sign any waivers before you had Turbotrix work on your car? If not, I would suggest thinking about some legal actions.

[Galantfan88]

Jesus, did you sign any waivers before you had Turbotrix work on your car? If not, I would suggest thinking about some legal actions.

No they didnt have me sign anything, and I was thinking of haveing them pay me back for what they did.

[Faction]

From experience, even if you did. TT won't answer the phone, and they will ignore you. They'll even ignore your subpoenas.

[Isaurio]

Crap bro sorry about that. I will text you soon.

[carl3g]

No they didnt have me sign anything, and I was thinking of haveing them pay me back for what they did.


From experience, even if you did. TT won't answer the phone, and they will ignore you. They'll even ignore your subpoenas.

If enough people were screwed over by TT, may be some kind of small class action lawsuit can be filed. I strongly suggest you talk to your family lawyer or a friends parent who is a lawyer and ask about your options.

[Galantfan88]

If enough people were screwed over by TT, may be some kind of small class action lawsuit can be filed. I strongly suggest you talk to your family lawyer or a friends parent who is a lawyer and ask about your options.

I have a lawyer Ill talk to him about it and see what he thinks I should do but trsut me neeeever going back to them...NEVER. I learned from my mistake which was not listening to people when they told me how much they suck. Right now Akuma is my new best friend and Ill be working with them on this, they are so helpful. One guy there that worked on my car use to work with TT, and he told me he quit from there bc they are just not the same anymore. They dont care about anything they do unless its thier cars that go on the track.

[Galantfan88]

Crap bro sorry about that. I will text you soon.

Its all good brother, just ganna have to suck it up and move on to the best thing about owning my Galant. Yeah bro text me and ill give you updates on everything.

[Galantfan88]

Ok guys update on everything and imma give you guys the whole story.

I was just going through the stuff that I have to sell on ebay and found my stock ECU to the Galant. So I decided before I let it go to connect it to the car just to see what happends.........BOOM!!! the car starts and stays on with no problem holding beautiful idle. I decided to just take it for alil drive around the corner just to see what happends just for science...the car drives like a dream with no problem what so ever and yes I was bad and just weantd to see if it would keep power if I go alil faster...shit started to fly in 2nd gear, and what do you know 2nd gear dosnt freak out anymore. Also car is pushing out 5 psi of boost for some reason.

Only thing I think car is running lean at 10.0, and the car kinda starts to die out in first after letting clutch go but I also think its bc I dont have the MAF on the car. Guys is the Galant ECU tunable? if not than wft is going on!!! The car is running strong and pulling like a mofo.

[finald8ta]

Talk to isaurio

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

[deeznutz]

It's absolutely tunable!

[Blue8g]

O SHI.

That sucks but is good at the same time?

[Galantfan88]

if the ECU is tunable than Imma give the stock ECU a try and see where that takes me bc right now the car is running the way I want it to with good power. Im ganna check the compression one more time and see what it is, but right now the engine is pulling like a beast even thought i know lean is bad, but I also believe thats bc I have Evo 8 injectors on stock ECU.

[carl3g]

Congrats Jesus. Im glad you don't have to get ride of it and its working well! You still gotta let me take it out for a spin one day.

[oakrdrs187]

Good to hear man.

[Galantfan88]

Thanx guy, it really means alot to me the motavation you guys give me, and really thanx to Isaurio for his time an effort he's about to put into helping me tune this baby out. We are both going to plan a day for him to come on down to NJ for a good day and fix the map on the ECU and even get rid of the CEL on the tranny. Ill update all of you when this happend and how it comes out.

[Exhaust power]

Man im sure your really happy now you can awake the beast!

Congrats!

[wetamup2k3g]

10.0 afr = rich right? 14.7 is ideal, less than that means less air, which means more fuel I think. I always thought lower was richer, a tuner can correct me if I'm wrong though.

[qnz]

what happened to taking your car to the shop?

[Galantman03]

10.0 afr = rich right? 14.7 is ideal, less than that means less air, which means more fuel I think. I always thought lower was richer, a tuner can correct me if I'm wrong though.

Yeah, lower is richer.
Dude- KEEP IT GOING BRO!

[Isaurio]

10.0 afr = rich right? 14.7 is ideal, less than that means less air, which means more fuel I think. I always thought lower was richer, a tuner can correct me if I'm wrong though.

Yes. 10 is rich thats boosts level afrs. You get max burn for power is at 12.5 or so. Less lean is not about the air been less is about the injectors is not supplying the require fuel for a giving load.

14.7 is set my mitsu so it could keep minimum emission and save fuel at idle and low to mid cruise. Is main for the cat to keep it safe. Main O2 sensor is designed to keep afr at 14.7 on close loop. But ideal maximum fuel economy is at 15.2-5 or so AFR not 14.7. So i would say
10 to 60-70 load or so is at 14.7 AFR
80 to 100 is open loop so around 12.5+- for a N/A
Boost 100+ loads is open loop it should be around 13 and lower depends on boost levels. This it just an average.

[Galantfan88]

what happened to taking your car to the shop?

I took the car to Akuma Motorsports to see what the leak down test tells me, but as good as these people sound, you cant really trust anyone. All they told me was that compression is low and losin 20% compression on 1 and 2 cylinders. I asked where is it leaking from and they said they would have to take it apart to find out. Now I thought doing a leak down test would tell you where its leaking from........hmmmmmm wast of my time. Also John who is the owner said he tried to start the car but it would go on, so I went to go check it out and they forgot to connect the coil packs :nono:

After I tunred on the car and hed went to close my hood and forgot to take my battery cap that covers the + side of the battery from the side of the hood and broke it and was still trying to close the hood until my friend finaly said..ummmm something is there sir.lol Also after taking the car to Akuma now I have oil going into my #1 spark plug tube.