Lower air box removal VS cold ait intake

[scatterbrain]

Was reading through the site (http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=202) of RPW (the ones who did all the mods on the mitsubishi 380) and it mentioned something about removing the lower part of the factory air box.

"Further options is to remove the lower section of the air box which is a separate part of the air box mounted onto the chassis and clips into the lower portion of the air box. RPW has found that this reservoir, which is factory sealed, if cut on the end enables air to be sucked into the air box. The air is sourced from the inner passenger side guard and not only provides further cold air, but additionally, provides around a 25% increase in air flow into the air box. RPW has successfully done this on many vehicles now with no side effects and fully protected from any water being ingested into the engine."

Also says

"But in all honesty, stock air box with the modified air intake on both ends is superior to an aftermarket cold air kit."

I already have a K&N air filter in my factory air box and was planning on getting the Fujita CAI but if it is better and cheaper to modify the existing box, I'd rather do that. has anyone done this?

[Gotti]

I would cut it out. Only air flow to the stock intake is the snorkeled which is pretty small.

[Corey2kG]

I believe a couple 8g members did it. I know Zobgel did it for sure.

[oakrdrs187]

If you are gonna go with CAI I would assume you have to remove it, if SRI you can leave it.

[Its Reu]

I removed that lower intake box years ago, its hard to reach the bolts that bold it to the frame. Its been so long since Ive done this but i think it changed the sound of the intake when your wide open.

[scatterbrain]

The Extract from the site posted above says it is better than a CAI. Is there any truth to that?

[Gotti]

1 piece cai will likely break at the mounting over time.
Cutting stock airbox $0 vs cai $200+

[scatterbrain]

Then the question is how does one do it?

[Its Reu]

The Extract from the site posted above says it is better than a CAI. Is there any truth to that?

Honestly I dont know, I dont want to tell you yes or no not really knowing. I've never felt the need to get a CAI though...

[bgood12]

let em help you, get a manometer or a magnehlic gauge tap your air box at various points i.e. in front of MAF and after MAF the difference is how much restriction the MAF gives do this at various points. then you till be able to know how well your system is breathing and if any modifications would be worth it . go to autospeed.com and search "magnehelic" and or into the intake and it will be in one of the articles. good luck!

[zobgel]

I believe a couple 8g members did it. I know Zobgel did it for sure.

SLS2000 and I did this mod long time ago and until know I'm still using my modified air box. IMO its better and cheaper than buying a $200+ CAI and it sound 1000x better than aftermarket CAI or SRI (specially on V6). CAI or SRI have raspy sound but the modified air box have deeper tone specially on V6.

[scatterbrain]

I finally got around to cutting the lower air box. The risk of sucking in water with a CAI or heat soak with an SRI after paying good money didn't make sense so I just modified the stock air box. It sounds a little better and throttle response seems better but that may be in my head :023:
Intake wise I next want to remove the resonator but I do not want to just tape it so have to figure out a way to deal with it. Will post a sound clip once done.

[scatterbrain]

Closed

[STrYkeR]

Does anyone have any pics of this being done, or what it looks like? I want to remove the lower air box, but I don't want to fuck it up. :102:

[Dominicano]

its not really rocket science, take the whole piece out make sure to leave the mounting points intact on the bottom end and remove the plastic you don't need to open it up more.

[STrYkeR]

its not really rocket science, take the whole piece out make sure to leave the mounting points intact on the bottom end and remove the plastic you don't need to open it up more.

I Didn't think it was going to be hard, Just curious as to how others did it. I will have a go at it this weekend... or maybe this week sometime.

[Dominicano]

I Didn't think it was going to be hard, Just curious as to how others did it. I will have a go at it this weekend... or maybe this week sometime.


go to a junk yard and pick up an extra piece from the bottom that way if you don't like it then you can put it back to stock.

[STrYkeR]

go to a junk yard and pick up an extra piece from the bottom that way if you don't like it then you can put it back to stock.

Ya, thats what I thought about doing, any airbox for a 3.8 should work right? wheather it is galant, or eclipse.

[Dominicano]

someone with a 9G would need to respond

[#1GALANTFAN]

So do you have to remove some plastic piece or do you have to cut it? It would be really nice if someone who did this can show me pics. I will do this very soon, I just wanna know what the finished product looks like, which would help answer my questions.

[SquareOne]

I have an 8g and would also like to see how this is done, if anyone can post pics that would be great.

[#1GALANTFAN]

After thinking about it, I know its not complicated, but, I want it to be professional like, so what I want to know is, what did you guys cover the hole with? Because I'm not gonna leave it open so any suggestions before I go through with this would really help.

[dkwiat0]

I personally removed the entire bottom piece connected to the bottom of the air box and i have been getting alot better air flow, and it is running great. just unbolt it from the frame and you will see a big increase in air flow. hope it helps buddy

[#1GALANTFAN]

I personally removed the entire bottom piece connected to the bottom of the air box and i have been getting alot better air flow, and it is running great. just unbolt it from the frame and you will see a big increase in air flow. hope it helps buddy

Wait, so you can just disconnect it from the main air box without cutting it? Because if you don't have to cut anything, then I'm more convinced now all of a sudden.

[Dominicano]

just cut a hole at the bottom of the where the filter is held. There should be like a snorkel that connects to that box. I don't see why you would need the snorkel so you can eliminate that and cover up the hole. Then the only air that should be coming in is from the bottom. You can make many hole or just cut out the whole thing without taking away from where it mounts from. when you take the whole box out you will see or if not then post a picture of the bottom and we'll let you know then.

[#1GALANTFAN]

Well, I don't really wanna cut anything, I'll just remove the whole lower box, like what dkwiat0 said he did.

[Dominicano]

ok so then you have to find a way to hold up the box, and also hold up the filter cause I believe the bottom portion is what is connected to the body to hold everything up. The filter gets sandwiched in between the top and the bottom halves. Also DKWIAT0 has and 8G and you have a 9G. I know the 8G would need someway to hold it up or if he rotated the top portion upward he would need something to hold the filter down.

[#1GALANTFAN]

ok so then you have to find a way to hold up the box, and also hold up the filter cause I believe the bottom portion is what is connected to the body to hold everything up. The filter gets sandwiched in between the top and the bottom halves. Also DKWIAT0 has and 8G and you have a 9G. I know the 8G would need someway to hold it up or if he rotated the top portion upward he would need something to hold the filter down.

Ah, ok, I see what your getting at, hopefully I'll think of something.

[#1GALANTFAN]

So I just did this today, just removed the whole lower box and put the main air box back on. Seems good, definitely sounds good, and I do notice a difference driving it. Although I did have the SES light come on, and from what I heard, doing this doesn't piss off the MAF sensor lol, so I don't think I messed anything up? Also, could it be because the first time we started it up and it stalled out immediately, we forgot to hook back up the MAF sensor and it just won't turn off? I only drove it for about 10 minutes and started up a couple. So maybe I just need to reset it? Or is there a problem that I should fix?

[Dominicano]

Disconnect the battery negative terminal for 15 minutes

[#1GALANTFAN]

.
Disconnect the battery negative terminal for 15 minutes

While that would probably work, and thank you for the reply, but I just started her again and its not on, so maybe I just had to wait like an hour, I don't know if its a permanent fix, but that's ok. It's not on right now so I'm happy.

[9Ggts]

Was reading through the site (http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=202) of RPW (the ones who did all the mods on the mitsubishi 380) and it mentioned something about removing the lower part of the factory air box.

"Further options is to remove the lower section of the air box which is a separate part of the air box mounted onto the chassis and clips into the lower portion of the air box. RPW has found that this reservoir, which is factory sealed, if cut on the end enables air to be sucked into the air box. The air is sourced from the inner passenger side guard and not only provides further cold air, but additionally, provides around a 25% increase in air flow into the air box. RPW has successfully done this on many vehicles now with no side effects and fully protected from any water being ingested into the engine."

Also says

"But in all honesty, stock air box with the modified air intake on both ends is superior to an aftermarket cold air kit."

I already have a K&N air filter in my factory air box and was planning on getting the Fujita CAI but if it is better and cheaper to modify the existing box, I'd rather do that. has anyone done this?


I had an Injen SRI on my 06 GTS and decided to return the factory air box with a K&N filter and follow RPW's suggestion. I cut out a portion on the reservoir box located under the left fender so cold air can be sucked in and I can truly say that it is much better than the Injen . Better and smoother throttle response. Enlarging the hole under the filter where the reservoir connects or just taking out the reservoir box is not a good idea since you still get heat soak.

I would definitely recommend RPW's suggestion. I will be selling my SRI.

[GWAPS]

So, this stock air box modification will def wrk on the 8gens as well?

[dkwiat0]

Wait, so you can just disconnect it from the main air box without cutting it? Because if you don't have to cut anything, then I'm more convinced now all of a sudden.
I just took the whole lower air box off, and its been working fine. Even with all the rain i have been getting around here. But then again yes i have the 8g

[9Ggts]

So, this stock air box modification will def wrk on the 8gens as well?

Not sure about the 8gen. Maybe someone here with an 8G already tried it?
What I did with my 9g was to cut out a small portion first, save that piece and if I get a CEL I planned to just put the cut piece back. But I didnt get a CEL ,so I just cut a bigger hole and voila, more cold air coming in.

[GWAPS]

I'm gonna def look more n2 it on this mod. Thus I damn sure am not trying 2 get a cel light on neither so I would need to b very careful u know.

[Dominicano]

You're not going to get a cel light with this mod unless u don't plug in the maf.

[bgood12]

Check this article www.autospeed.com/cms/A_112713/article.html

[June_03GV6_ES]

I'm in need of serious help! I need this car running again before mid September which is around the time my wife gives birth, can a kind soul please help me out hear in figuring out the problem? Thank you, I greatly appreciate it! (P.S. Sorry for changing the subject here, but I'm in desperate need of assistance.)


Here's a link to the inside of my cylinder head.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...8-17175612.jpg

Watch The video and judge for yourself

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJDSbn9iUYM


2003 Mitsubishi Galant V6, Engine Knocking. Car ran 100% until the other day, Passed inspection like a month ago no problem, I decided to give it a back to back 2 day tune before going on a road trip. If you own this car then you know to give it a full tune is a heck of a pain.

Day 1: Changed the Oil Full Synthetic 10w30, Oil Filter and air filter. Drove the car all day not one issue.

Day 2: Took apart the intake to change Spark Plugs and Intake Gasket. Kept my work area cleaned reattached everything, inspected everything making sure all was connected properly. I turned on the car and BAM! it started knocking, so I did what any reasonable person would do, I took apart the intake again to see and make sure the cables were in the right firing order and it was. So I figured maybe spark plugs, but the plugs I put in were double platinum like the old ones before it, so I put the old ones back and guess what? Noise is not gone!

Took it to a Speed Shop where I live and the guy checked for metal in the oil and found nothing, he went inside the shop and came out with one of those expensive Automotive Stethoscope and checked the block all around. When he came to the front of the block he said he swears that something probably fell into the intake and wound up in the front cylinder on the driver side. He said that it sounds like metal bouncing off the cylinder I believe him. He told me to get a Borecope to look into the block and a Flexmagnet Pick Up Tool to pull out what ever is stuck - But I will also like to hear your opinion on what you think is wrong?

I was told various things by different people:

1: Bearings
2: Crankshaft
3: Rods
4: Knock Sensor
5: Something is in the cylinder banging against it
6: Lifters

Alright so I removed the Cylinder Head Cover/Valve Cover whatever you want to call it. I found that my front driver side rocker arm is loose, enough said because we all know there shouldn't be any play there. Anyhow so I'm thinking, and this is just a thought, does anyone think that noise I have could be coming from the cylinder head? I checked under the car and found no noise, I checked my oil pressure and theres no problem there, I found no metal flakes in my oil... I'm hoping it's not a rod??

I also found no metal objects of any kind lodged on my cylinder, someone told me could be a bad lifter that did not charge properly after I reconnected the battery and started the car... anyone who is a professional know how to test if the lifters are bad?

Important Information: The noise only comes from the front driver side top of the engine no noise underneath giving signs of a crankshaft or bearings... but what do I know, I'm not a professional, if I was I wouldn't be here seeking advice.[/SIZE]



http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z415/Truelight4u/jdk2copy.jpg

Here's My Card..

[Dominicano]

why didn't you open up your own thread? this has nothing to do with the discussion or lower airbox.

[June_03GV6_ES]

I was in desperate need and posted on the first thing I saw, I apologize to everyone for this.

[99Ga1ant]

It's really easy to do. Just a few bolts and a rotozip.

[99Ga1ant]

My bad I didnt realize this was for the 9G.

[JohnnyCiphe]

If anybody can PM me in getting the lower air box out without cutting it, I would greatly appreciate it. I can't get the main portion of the air box out because I can't get to a screw which is being blocked by the coolant.

[mainer]

I removed the front inner fender wall as well as the splash guard and was able to get to that screw. I wasn't able to get a clean view of it because of the coolant reservoir, but if you wiggle the lower air box around, you will be able to feel where its bracket meets the car body.