Racecar Rebuild: its been awhile!

[6G72gearhead]

Hey, not sure how many of you remember me, but I used to race a lot of autocross and was starting to get into road course racing. Well in May of 2010 I managed to slide the car off the fastest corner of the course and almost rolled it. By almost I mean there was blades of grass stuck too the top of the mirror on the passenger side.

Unfortunately the result was the near complete destruction of my JIC Magic coilovers and several bent suspension links. To add insult to injury after I landed the car on is wheels I hit a berm, denting my header and basically destroying most of the plastic and sheet metal on the nose of the car.

Well, at the time I had no money to put the car back together, so it got partially disassembled and parked. I bought an old Volvo from my aunt and basically forgot about the car. I just didn't have the money to fix any of it.

So it was left to sit, like this, alone in a crappy carport.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0061.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0060.jpg

To top it off this past summer I got blown up, leaving me with only half of my left hand, very blurred vision in my left eye, and I'm in need of 1 more surgery to replace my 2nd eardrum.


Well now I'm in my senior year of school, and I have managed to collect a sum of money I can use to rebuild the car with. So here it goes, I pulled the trigger on the last set of FLT-A2's in JIC's inventory and its time to get this thing back on the track!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0113.jpg

Got it out of the rotting carport and now its time to start building!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0062_BURST002.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0063.jpg

Got her cleaned up!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0064.jpg

Well since its been sitting for 2 years without running, I'm planning on doing a full engine rebuild. I don't have the money yet to go a crazy as I want to with it, but it should be more then it was previously. I have some new friends and contacts to start building the car for the class' I intend to bring it back into.

[foxbrand]

welcome back my friend! hell of a story, rebuild looks great so far

[4g63lover]

holy crap. your car was so clean! cant wait to see what you bring her back to.

[wetamup2k3g]

Great story, in for updates, good luck!

[Blue8g]

You were leaving the site as I was just starting here, but glad to see you back!

[M-Rod]

Welcome back! I always loved your car. Sorry to hear about the mis-haps since last seeing you around. You may be fond of the possible engine swaps available now, if that would interest you rather than fully rebuilding your 6G72. If you do decide to rebuild the 72, there is a killer deal on C3G right now for rods and pistons from a project that never left the ground. Once again, it's good to see you back.

[6G72gearhead]

Thanks guys, I've wanted to get this thing going again, I just wasn't financially able too until now. I'm still waiting for a few more parts before I begin.

A good friend of mine fabricates custom motorcycles and is trying to expand into the automotive market. We are already looking at an integrated battery box and a custom triangulated strut tower brace. I would really enjoy to take advantage of his abilities with titanium!

[greddy]

nice, good to see someone come back who actually regularly tracked their galant, I've felt very lonely for a while now. I have to ask, when you mean blow up, did you mean you were near an explosion of some sort? Also, what spring rates did you go with on your coils?

[6G72gearhead]

Yeah, its been a minute hasn't it, I saw your rally cross pictures, looks like a blast.

The car is coming back 6G72, I've already decided it. I really have learned a lot here at school and I have some idea's and techniques that I want to try out and see what this snappy little engine can do.

Since I have the Volvo the car will be coming back as a dedicated track car, no more compromises, the car will be built to the SMF Solo II class and the Street GT time attack class, which I can't remember what production class that also puts me in, but either way I'm not holding back. I want to put an 8G Galant on a podium. I will do it.

The springs I used to run where 8k and 7k for the eclipse, however I went 9k and 8k this go around just to get the platform sorted out. I can go up to 11k before revalving is needed, I just have to adjust nitrogen, which is easy enough. Jon from JIC is going to help me dissect my telemetry so I really get the most out of the suspension, he seems to support trying to get an oddball car into a competitive set up.

What happened to me was, well, we where experimenting with a mortar propellent, which consisted of oxidized acetone, it got knocked over and it detonated. At like 7300 fps, the amount was enough to have blown a suburban in half. However I stabilized the compound, which prevented the majority from going into an actual detonation event.

[foxbrand]

Well, if you want to make your 6g72 a little snappier, I have at least one 6g74 intake manifold (amongst the many left over parts) you can buy from me (mods don't worry, I will make a fs thread) however you might end up fighting my engine builder for the 6g74 crank if you plan on stroking the engine

Well fellow pyro, stay safe and good luck

[greddy]

excellent, I'm eager to see how your suspension setup works out, I'm on 8K 10K now going to 10K 12K for next track season.

[6G72gearhead]

Have you talked with the designer for the coilovers? That is really stiff, the problem is not so much the actual spring rate, but how fast the valve head reacts. When you go with a super hard spring, the valving in the damper has to react much faster, and in a much shorter stroke to have its say in how the car sets in the corner. I'll probably end up with much stiffer springs, but its going to be after I have collected some data about my driving style and how the car handles on course so when I revalve for the stiffer rate I'm also revalving to make the suspension react to the car much better.

Just some things to think about.

As for an intake manifold, we are drawing up some idea's for an individual throttle set up on solidworks, thanks for the offer but I can put up with a stock manifold until that is completed. Its gonna take longer to finish then this build, but that should kind of hint people to where this is going.

[greddy]

yeah I have, I have have custom coilovers built by AMR engineering who is local to me, the dampers are valved to deal with the stiff rates, I have a season's worth of track testing on the coils with NT-05s and we talked it over and it's time to bump the rates a bit :)

[w/oarctic7g]

Racing is an addictive sport glad to see you're getting back into it. Eagerly looking forward to your progress reports also if you can post pics of any safety upgrades like cage, reinforcements, bars etc that would awesome. Not many expect a g to be a formidable opponent but when you finish well its a pretty incredible feeling. I wish the 6g72 was an easy transplant into a 7g as that would be a significant improvement to my race car.

[6G72gearhead]

Sweet dude, I wish I had stuff like that here, all we got is a bunch of circle track builders that look at you funny when you talk about right turns. How is oversteer on the car? I know with my ST rear swaybar and a stock front turn in is fantastic with a very neutral feel. I think on my current set up going that much stiffer then the front in the rear would lead to a whole lot more oversteer then is needed.

I'll be moving the car to my buddies garage on saturday so we can start the teardown. Still working on getting ahold of all the hardware I need.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0120_BURST002.jpg

Yes, those are high strenth stainless 16mm bolts for the strut attatchment. Uppers will be cam bolts to allow me to dial in as much camber as I can.

[greddy]

the car is actually quite neutral, i went with higher rates in the rear with a beefy rear sway bar simply because of the motion ratio of the rear suspension. I really like the 2K spread front to rear so far. If you ever need stuff like custom camber plates or anything, contact http://www.amrengineering.com/ and talk to Andy. lifetime warranty on everything too. he made me some custom front and rear endlinks as well and made my rear bar adjustable. He's working on a set of rear camber arms for me as well.

[8thLS6]

Love builds that involve fab work and custom parts, so definitely looking forward to your build. Glad to see your getting back to wrenching behind the G. Best of luck in your build

[6G72gearhead]

Sweet dude, sounds like a quality set up you got. The camber plates I got, I'll use. My buddy Sam and I are looking into front and rear adjustable control arms to help change camber and caster. However the main points that are needing to be addressed are: getting this engine built, stopping the surface rust in small area's, making sure the new build will sustain large amounts of rpm for hours on end, and getting the engine bay prepped to do the battery box and strut tower brace.

[greddy]

keep me posted on those front arms, I might be interested in a set if you're willing to make more than one :) and the strut tower bar too. you keeping the battery box up front or trunk mounted?

[6G72gearhead]

Battery is going up front, about in the stock location, it will be a frame mounted set up, only much lighter and for a 16 series motorcycle battery. Possibly something special battery wise, but I'll wait until its a sure thing to divulge the info.

There is a good chance part of the strut tower brace will be weld in, as the firewall needs reinforcement before it can really support having that much load transmitted to it. The thing that makes it tricky is that we still have to be able to pull the engine in and out, so the cross brace that connects the towers directly will have to be bolted in, but that allows more flex.

I'm also toying with how much weight could possibly be saved by building a lighter crash bar. Running without one is foolish, but keeping the strength with lighter materials would be very beneficial.

[foxbrand]

if you get a triangulated strut tower brace made out of titanium, could I get one made out of carbon or stainless steel? or at the least, a sketchup document of it?
:bouncing:

rather than welding it in, you can have it going from the strut studs, to the windshield wiper motor attaches and also to the brake master cylinder (ok, so it would be trapazoidal then with two beams crossing each other within it), welding it in could cause issues later if you run a taller intake manifold or if you need to reach for something by the rear exhaust manifold, just my two cents

I won't think a motorcyle battery would be powerful enough, especially when it would get cold (well, your galant is your track/fun car, so that might not be that much of an issue), I'm toying around the idea of using the same battery that is in my Civic (which is light enough that I can pick it up and carry it with one hand), worse comes to worse, a 15 pound Braille battery would do

[6G72gearhead]

I ran a regular 16L from O'Reillys for years and it would start in the dead of winter, just fine. Really your engine should not pull over 200 amps while cranking. I think the highest I saw was 120 @ maybe 4*f, so damned cold. The reason you see such big lead acid batteries is because in 2 years they have lost almost half of their capacity, so if they are over twice what the car needs you get 4 years or more before you start seeing the diminished capacity effect your ability to start.

Not sure the strut tower brace will be out of titanium at the moment, part of it might be. Titanium won't weld to sheet steel. I keep thinking about using the pinch rail that spans the firewall for part of the mounting. I'm not going to use a 6G74 or a GTS manifold, so space isn't so much of a concern. Nothing is final right now. Plus I gotta get the car together before I can move it to where we'd be fabricating things for it.

[greddy]

interesting, I have a tubular front crash bar on my car now that weighs about half of what the stock one does for intercooler clearance purposes. can't wait to see progress

[6G72gearhead]

I won't be using an intercooler which reduces my design restrictions. When I get back to my house I'll get Sam over and we'll get some solid measurements to start working with.

[keith6110]

Nice to see some interest coming back! Sorry to hear about your story =/

[kolio]

Welcome back man. It's good to see people pushing their G's! I can't wait to see what you do now

[6G72gearhead]

Thanks guys, its good to be building this car again. Its been a long time coming but I think I'll be able to do some things now that really haven't ever been tried with the platform before. Looks like you guys have done a good job keeping it alive without me though!

[M-Rod]

The more the merrier! Every bit of contribution adds to our knowledge base :)

[6G72gearhead]

Did some work on the car today, I can't really tear into it yet since I still need to move it, but my lord is the engine bay a mess!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0121.jpg

I need to start into the header so I pulled it out since its in the way to get the car on the trailer. There is more damage then I thought, both flex joints are busted and the dent is pretty bad, but I think with some heat it will come out.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0122.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0123.jpg

[foxbrand]

I have a set of M2 (Megan knock off's) headers sitting in my basement I bought off SPD_FRK last year, if that isn't repairable, I can sell you them for $100

[Silvertune]

Why would he go from quality headers to outright garbage?

[foxbrand]

slice them apart and make a set of long tubes, I was planning on that until I figured out they were coated mild steel

[Silvertune]

This is real life not Legos, it's not that easy. Seriously.

If the OP doesn't want to fix them I'll buy them and fix them myself. The short tubes are hard to come by and I can fix them.

[6G72gearhead]

They are getting new joints from vibrant and then getting ceramic coated. We just measured them up after running them through the media blaster and should have the joints by the end of the week.

I've had really good luck with that header set, so I'm gonna fix it.

Saturday can't come soon enough, I'm so ready to tear the motor down and really clean up the car.

[6G72gearhead]

I don't know why people call them short tubes vs. long tubes, except that's what rpw calls them. Everything I've seen they are the same collector, the difference is the "short" tubes come with the lower section that attaches the two collectors.

Well I got the car moved yesterday, and we started the teardown, so here is it so far!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0127_BURST002.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0128_BURST002.jpg

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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0130.jpg

Had to use a shovel to pry the exhaust up enough to clear the trailer
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0131_BURST002.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0132.jpg

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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0134.jpg

Moving it off the trailer at the new location!
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0136.jpg

Starting the teardown!
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0137.jpg

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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0139.jpg

[wetamup2k3g]

Coilovers + Stock wheels = Sleeeeper! You move quick, I love it!
Nice 8G pizza delivery car in the second pic.

[kolio]

what are you going to do about the brakes?

[6G72gearhead]

That's my neighbors car, I think he's pretty happy at the fact that I can fix anything on his car cheaper and faster then any shop in town, it helps my bank account too!

As for brakes, I'm looking for a set of brembo's, but I don't really have the money yet, so I'll probably just keep them stock and cheap to get the car moving again, and then do the brembo swap when I can.

Did a bunch of work today

Started here
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0139.jpg

In about 30 minutes
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0140.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0141.jpg

Not too long after
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0143.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0144.jpg

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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0146.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0147.jpg

Thats all for now, gotta get my engine stand over and start taking apart the engine.

[6G72gearhead]

Some pictures I didn't get around to posting last night. I got the valve covers off, as well as the timing cover. Today is gonna be all about getting the rest of the engine apart and increasing the exhaust port size slightly.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0151.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0148.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0149.jpg

[keith6110]

You move quick! Reminds me of myself haha. Can't wait to see some more progress!

[wetamup2k3g]

Look at how clean the inside of those heads are.

[foxbrand]

^ this, last time I had a valve cover off my rocker arms and shafts had a gold/brown tint to them, although the rocker assemblies for my 6g75 are basically silver/grey like yours, mind if I ask what kind of oil you have been using?


but, my you are moving quickly in your build, keep it up!

[finald8ta]

nice!!!\

[6G72gearhead]

The heads have been rebuilt before, which got all the varnish off, but I run Mobil 1 0w-40. So we'll see how the bottom end looks.

The bottom end isn't off because I'm porting the exhaust side of the head to 40mm.

[6G72gearhead]

Ok, I got the timing belt off today, and actually got it down to basically the shortblock.

Here is a couple more pictures inside the heads. They have RPW valvesprings that I'll have to get checked for proper spring pressure.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0157.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0158.jpg

We also got the front subframe out to clean it up, I don't have any pictures, but its good I did since there is some surface rust I'll pour15 before reassembly.

Took all day to enhance the previous port work, the intake side is just dandy, but the exhaust ports on these heads suck, and they can flow much better, but you gotta hog them out quite a bit. The guy who did the port work initially did a good job, he just neglected to take the actual size of the port as large as need be to take advantage of the RPW header system I'm using.

So I took this opportunity to open them up even more. Granted they are rough for now, I'll go in an further polish them to get the full effect. They started at 37mm and I took them out to 40mm to match the headers.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0152.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0153.jpg

The left is the 37mm port, right side is the 40mm
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0155.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0156.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0159.jpg

Before all of you go ehrmagerd why did you grind on them with the heads still on the block?!? Relax, the nice thing about taking an engine apart is that you can do this, and then pull the cylinders out the bottom to keep from scoring the cylinder walls. Which is exactly what I'm going to do, leaving the heads on just made it easier to hold them still while I messed with them.

The bottom end looks good, especially since this engine has spent at least 40k of its life above 4k rpms. This is why I enjoy the short stroke of the 6G72, I think its potential as a naturally aspirated engine hasn't been close to unlocked, its very revvable and if I can keep things like the oil pump and water pump and the timing belt happy I'm guessing there is plenty of power to be made in the upper stratosphere of the rpm range.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0160.jpg

The oil pan, and windage tray all have the normal oil varnish on them, its not a bad thing to see the golden brown varnish, that means your oil is building up a film and the additives are bonding to the internal parts.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0161.jpg

[wetamup2k3g]

What tool do you use to port the heads?

[6G72gearhead]

I used a wire wheel and a couple different grinding stones. The wire wheel takes out more material, but the finish it leaves is not quite so good, so you clean them up with the stones, on the exhaust side the finer grit the better. I DO NOT recommend just going at your heads without a lot of planning and measuring of clearances. You can very easily hit the water jacket or the oil return. Unless you can look at it and have an idea of what needs to be done, leave it for the pro's. Plus they have cool flow benches and can match each cylinder!

Spent most of today just cleaning stuff, but first a look as what the rod bearings and cylinder bore looks like!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0163.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0164.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0166.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0167.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0168.jpg

The half cleaned subframe

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0169.jpg

Dirty ol' gearbox

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0171.jpg

Passenger side of the engine bay all cleaned up

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0172.jpg

Drivers side disaster area

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0173.jpg

Passenger side headlight mounting area all cleaned up

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0175.jpg

Drivers side still in need of tlc

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0176.jpg

I found some rust on the strut tower that will probably have to be grinded and welded, more on that later, I'm shot.

[6G72gearhead]

I have been busy on this car, I have been grinding off the spots of rust and painting all the bare spots with POUR 15, as well as painting all the seams that might possibly rust in the future. Now its time to spray it down with 3M undercoat to give it a bit more protection.

Here is the cleaned up subframe.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0177.jpg

Crank and Girdle
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0178.jpg

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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0181.jpg

Rack cleaned up and back on the subframe. Still gotta change tie rods.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0182.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0183.jpg

Some pictures around the shop, the next project is to notch the frame of the S10 and bag it. Gonna pull the cab off the frame and clean it all up as well.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0184.jpg

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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0188.jpg

Old junk coilovers, well, the back ones are still good if anyone wants them.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0189.jpg

Old Norton Commander project bike.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0190.jpg

[Rach3T8G]

You sure have a lot of work on your hands. Are the coils free?

[6G72gearhead]

Well you pay shipping, can't decide if I want to keep the springs for tuning purposes though. The fronts are ruined, the rears I haven't played with, but there is a chance they are busted as well.

[keith6110]

What's wrong with the fronts? Don't want but curious lol.

[6G72gearhead]

What's wrong with the fronts? Don't want but curious lol.

Read my first post for more details, but I basically wrecked the car, the fronts are cracked and seized together. It took a hard hit.

So I have been debating the compression ratio I want to go for this stage of the build. It seems I could have a set of custom Wiseco's for the same price as a set of GTS 10:1's. If I do that I could potentially go to 11+:1 compression ratio. My problem is there is almost no documentation on what the 6G7X heads will handle as far as super high compression. My other dilemma is for SMFWD class I have to run pump gas, which could be E85, but for now I'd at least like to be able to make it run on 91-93. I'll probably do another engine build once I step up to Street GT as my powerband will have to be different and I can run higher octane, not to mention being able to utilize more power.

Another thing I've been looking at is what I want to do for a wheel and tire combo. My current set up is 17x8.5 front and 17x8 rears, which is working very well, however I am limited to a 255 tire, pretty much max. If I step it out to a 9.5 and 9 I can potentially run a 275, which will give me the amount of tire I'm looking for to be very class competitive. I need to get it sorted so I can use this next race season to gather data for custom valving the dampers and really getting the car dialed in so I can start competing nationally.

I have been talking with my fabricator about setting up a battery box mounted to the frame rail just above the transmission mount, and the battery we have decided to go with will weigh just 6 lbs!

We should be able to get started on the strut tower brace, currently trying to design a good solid mount for the firewall section and debating materials. Its looking like the rules are trying to limit/ban the use of exotic materials for non-safety components so ti might be out for a brace. Chromoly is the word currently being tossed about for a replacement.

[6G72gearhead]

Progress has been slow, waiting for the machine shop to finish up the heads and the block. Other then that I've cleaned up a lot of stuff, so it should be starting to go back together fairly soon.

[6G72gearhead]

Well its all back together, so here is whats left of the pictures I've yet to post.

Welding up the new flex joints on the header
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0299_zps81d7046d.jpg

Fresh undercoat on top of the POR15 in the fender wells, should keep them well protected from any road debris.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0192_zps4fc91ad9.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0193_zps831c05ae.jpg

Headers on the new engine after being ceramic coated.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0535_zps3bbe6a55.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0536_zpsb293d95f.jpg

Engine dropped in the car finally!
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0537_zpsbbd16a4c.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0538_zpsa1a264d7.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0540_zpsf2bc73e0.jpg

First start in over 2 years, like nothing ever happened.

http://s138.photobucket.com/user/autoxgalant72/media/VIDEO0002_zps22b94b6c.mp4.html

Back on the road to put the body work back on.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0561_zpsd3230845.jpg

Dirty, stock looking, but together at last.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0562_zps5e7dcbc5.jpg

First cone race since it got back together, still on dried out RS2's

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0592_zps252c7932.jpg

BFG Rivals in 255/40/17, these tires are awesome!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0724_zps233771c7.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0732_zpsb6b7bd8a.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0734_zps88544f4c.jpg

Working on getting it dropped lower.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0735_zpsb46f69a5.jpg


The car has been very fast in regional events, I'm working on getting it set up to perform at the divisional coming up late next month. I'm looking at rolling the fenders out heavily so I can get my roll center lower without rubbing under hard corners. Not to mention the Rivals like camber, so getting up to 2.5-3 degrees should be very beneficial.

Also I've been doing some work on a new intake manifold design, its mostly now up to which throttle body I decide to use.

[wetamup2k3g]

wow, that sounds great!

[mrg7243]

How did you use the POR-15? Just curious as I want to do that to my grand national and the t-bird on the garage.

Also do you still have those top camber plates on the coils?

[master_visionary]

this is great keep up the work

[6G72gearhead]

How did you use the POR-15? Just curious as I want to do that to my grand national and the t-bird on the garage.

Also do you still have those top camber plates on the coils?

POR-15 sticks best to rusted surfaces, so basically I cleaned up the top rust and got rid of the crumbly parts that are falling off anyways and then just brush painted the stuff on. Also if you have bare metal that you want to POR-15, just let it surface rust a little before you paint it on, this will make it stick much better. I'd suggest getting a light coat of wax on any painted surface it may drip on, since you can just let it dry and then pick it with your finger and it will just flake off, which is really handy.

I have the old camber plates if anyone wants them, they should be in good shape still.

I'm working on flaring/rolling the fenders today in order to make room for massive rubber. If I can push them out enough I think I might be able to go to a 275 in the future, which will be insane.

Also, I have a friend who is really good at fabrication, and we are attempting to design a new surge tank for the GTS manifold that will utilize a larger throttle body. I'm going to hold back on most of the details for now, but I feel it should work very well to make some very nice power gains.

[M-Rod]

Glad to see this car is up and running again. I may have missed it or forgot, but you do have an LSD installed, right?

[6G72gearhead]

Yeah, I got one way back when the Quaffe was the one to have. I see everyone is going to a wavetrac and I don't know anything about those. Makes a huge difference, and with a good box limits breakage to cv axles which are free at O'Reilly's, lol.

[6G72gearhead]

Got my buddies fender roller, so today I started on pushing them out to see how much additional clearance I can gain. I've done the baseball bat method before, however this thing works amazing! I will probably be working the fenders on the Volvo after this just because I'd rather do it this way then anything else.

They've already been worked a little with a bat, but this was today's starting point.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0740_zps2b358989.jpg

Hooked up to the hub.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0741_zps3318f32e.jpg

Getting a nice curl to it.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0742_zps2282b146.jpg

Its moving out quite a bit.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0743_zpsc69434f5.jpg

No rubbing at all, that's it for now, but I'll try and move them more tomorrow.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0744_zpsa73d7cfd.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/IMAG0745_zps9eb71908.jpg

[wetamup2k3g]

You had no problems getting around the arm coming from the knuckle? I ask because I went to take my car to get the rears rolled, and they told me my arm got in the way of the roller and they couldn't roll my fenders. I'm still kinda hot about it, but next week I'll be either bat rolling or dead-blow hammering mine.

Setup looks great btw!

[6G72gearhead]

It might be an issue if the suspension is at full droop on a stock style strut. I really don't see it being a problem at all with my roller though. If its a problem you might try putting a jack under the rear control arms, so the hub is raised enough to push the control arm out of the way so the roller can swing free. The fronts are going to be really fun I have a feeling. I think I'm going to use a trick to get even more clearance out of it, should allow air to vent out of the wheel wells and keep the brakes cool.

[wetamup2k3g]

Duly noted. Thanks for the help!

[Silvertune]

Xcessive has been making plenums for the XG and GTS runners for a long time now. They can put any throttle flange on it.

[6G72gearhead]

I figured someone else has been making something, I just have the tools available to do it for the cost of the aluminum. The only thing I'm trying to figure out is how to set up an IAC. The throttle position sensors pretty much all work the same, so that part is easy.

[xd_01]

like the rubber, im amazed your able to tuck the 255's lol

[6G72gearhead]

My goal is to have 275's under it. Its gonna be close out back, I still got 3/4 of an inch up front to go inward, gotta make sure I leave room for tire squirm.

I think I got a little too aggressive today with the roller, I've got plenty of room now, but it looks like crap.

[xd_01]

that sucks, that's when its time to start considering flares

[6G72gearhead]

Yeah, I'm thinking with a little work I can fix it too look right. Just kind of hoping to have done a cleaner roll. Or I'll just have to get fender flares.

[Silvertune]

Go find a late 90's Nissan Maxim. They have a remote IAC housing that employs the same type Mits does. Allows you to remote mount the IAC and run any throttle body you want.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/448261-how-add-dsm-iac-any-aftermarket-throttle-body.html

[oakrdrs187]

You had no problems getting around the arm coming from the knuckle? I ask because I went to take my car to get the rears rolled, and they told me my arm got in the way of the roller and they couldn't roll my fenders. I'm still kinda hot about it, but next week I'll be either bat rolling or dead-blow hammering mine.

Setup looks great btw!

Thats just lazy. That roller has over 3 ways of adjustment, with that knockle in the way you gotta keep adjusting the roller but it can be done. It takes extra time, my suggestion is rent the tool and do it yourself, nobody will be as thorough and detail oriented as yourself, theres a listing on ebay to rent the tool and a heat gun.

Also, Hub height to knuckle is not a problem. Like I said it requires that you reposition more times thats all, now that I think of it the wheel arch is not the exact diameter or shape that the tool will be able to do it in one motion had the knuckle not been there anyway eventually you have to re-set the arms reach to get to every spot.


Trust me ive used that tool time and time again.

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

[6G72gearhead]

That was dead on with the fender rolling, it just takes a little bit of tinkering to make it work right.

Thanks Silvertune, that is dead on what I need, I know my volvo runs a remote IAC, but the pinout isn't the same and I don't think it would be compatible with the factory pcm.

[wetamup2k3g]

I'm going to look into borrowing/renting one. I have a heat gun already. Thanks for the advice bros!

[6G72gearhead]

I've been working on fixing where the rear quarter warped due to the flaring and its starting to look a lot better.

[6G72gearhead]

Ok, so event #7 tomorrow, I've got the suspension lowered to get me up to -2* camber in the front and -1.2 in the rear, with 1/4" to out up front and 1/8" in on the rear. This camber advantage along with the lowered roll center should be a huge advantage at tomorrows race.

[xd_01]

Good luck today!

[6G72gearhead]

Thanks for the wishes, but luck was not on my side, the timing belt snapped.

Fingers crossed I didn't crack any pistons.

[6G72gearhead]

No cracked pistons, got the heads back on and torqued down. Should be good to go for divisionals this weekend. Gotta put it through its paces a little before I take it up to Topeka.

[greddy]

Slot your lower mounts on your coils. You can gain quite a bit more neg camber that way

[6G72gearhead]

I'll probably play with that over the winter, right now I don't have time to mess with it before the MiDiv event this weekend.

I'll hopefully be able to really set the car up over the winter and get it dialed in. I'm on a fresh build this year, so I'm testing things out.

[IVORY_G]

Subscribed, good to see you back and in full effect!

[6G72gearhead]

Its good to be back! I just got a set of Brembo Calipers in today, time to make sure I got all the parts for this winters build. Hope to have the car sorted out and ready for its debut at Nationals next year.

[6G72gearhead]

Anyone have any preferences for rotors to use with the Evo calipers? I've been looking at the DBA's from tirerack due to their interesting slot design, and it seem many have had good luck with them on the racetrack. I've also been looking at pads, but that is a different story, I'm up in the air between a set of Performance Frictions, and some Hawk track pads.

Well a little update, I didn't make it to MidDivs, the damned thing skipped 3 teeth on the timing belt after running for just a few minutes. The only thing I can think of is that the hydraulic tensioner is allowing enough vibration for the belt to skip. So I've ordered a new tensioner and I'll try it again, I'm a little worried as I don't want to mess these heads up since I don't want to mess with totally rebuilding this set again.

[xd_01]

man that sucks it always makes me nervous when it comes to issues with the timing belt.

[Galantman03]

lol same here. I'm dealing with timing issue right now.

[Blue3000GTguy]

Have you considered a solid tensioner?
When people start going big power on the 3/S platform, they get solid tensioners, because if we jump timing it's almost always DOOM.

[Silvertune]

Make sure when you tensioned it you pry the pulley into the belt from beneath it's axis of rotation. If you go over the top the clockwise rotation of the belt can actually pull the turn table up and as it snaps back down you get a bunch of slack that causes even new belts to jump.

I'd get the Performance Friction pads. Too many bad experiences with Hawk. Can't go wrong with the DBA rotors though.

[6G72gearhead]

The current update is the car is back up and running, just a little too late for any more racing this season. I guess its time to start tuning my new intake manifold design and developing a nice tune for the pcm. I'll be taking the car to my storage unit here pretty soon and getting it stripped for winter.

With the timing belt I ended up buying the tool and a new tensioner, the combination has worked wonderfully.

I'm debating leaving my Brembo's black or powdercoating them back to red. I'm thinking I'd like to start with totally fresh paint on them.

[8thLS6]

Nice you got the timing belt situation taken care of

[6G72gearhead]

Yeah, its not a fun issue since its bad news for the engine if something goes wrong.

I've been playing with ECUFlash a lot lately trying to figure out how to define my MUT tables so I can start logging in 2 bit load, anyone here tried to do anything like this?

Also I'm curious about using the big maps patch to get a finer control of the AFR's and Timing.

[6G72gearhead]

Since race season is like 5 weeks away I've ordered braided lines, rotors and pads for the Evo Caliper set up. Should be here next week, so it will be nice to have that done.

Looking at the SMF rules and my competition I'm going to have to do some major weight cutting to get down to a reasonable weight. I can flare front fenders 1.5" I belive and still be legal, really the simple solution would be to form a flared fender that replaces the factory one. If I'm going to really take this car to its potential I need a lot more tire. Like 295's or 315's. The minimum my car can weigh is 2125 lbs, I really don't believe this can be done while still in compliance with the rules but every bit will help. I've been looking into carbon panels, but no one actually gives the weight of anything, so its an exercise in futility. I guess its time to look into plugging off the sunroof, can't decide on thick Lexan or aluminum. Again, not sure if the rules will require steel.

I think I'm gonna try and make some lightweight aluminum intake runners to 1 drop weight, and 2 free up some airflow to make this thing breath. Along with a 90mm LS1 throttle it should have plenty of air in.

[Silvertune]

Even the heaviest 6g7 intake manifold weighs in at all of 11.5 pounds. And cammed 3.8's putting out 300whp run the 65 with zero choking issues. A 90mm tb will have the 3.0 at WOT at like 1/3 throttle. If you really want to be productive I'd put my efforts elsewhere.

[6G72gearhead]

The thing is I can get the throttle for cheap, and weld up a manifold for cheap, the biggest cost is getting the flange ends waterjet cut, which is cheap. The intake stuff will be primarily in preparation to hog out another set of heads and get some big cams. I guess if the 90 is too touchy I've got a 75mm stock throttle laying around somewhere. However watching the vacuum gauge on a dyno run on my 6G72 tells a little different story on how the throttle is flowing.

[Silvertune]

Who cares if its cheap when putting effort into other areas would yield more? I'd love to see a log of that vacuum gauge. If a cammed 3.8 isn't choking on a65 there no way in creation your 3.0 is choking even on a 60.

A 65 and a ported 3.8 manifold will outperform almost anything you could possibly DIY.

[6G72gearhead]

Not calling you a liar, but on a diagnostic gauge it never gets above 3"hg. Now, is this really choking it, no, but is there horsepower to be gained from reducing restriction, yes. Before you ask I have put the gauge to the crankcase vent port in the intake tube just to verify it wasn't filter/MAF causing it.

I know how good the 6G75 manifold set up is good, however the person I will be doing the manifold with has been building custom street bikes for years, and has designed and built a number of very well performing intake set ups for street bike engines. I know its not 100% the same, but much of the math and principals are.

More then power though, I need to drop weight, and that is a huge battle with my current budget. I graduate soon, so that should help, haha.

[xd_01]

What does your car weigh now and what have you removed so far?

[6G72gearhead]

I'm not sure, it should be under 3k lbs though. I need to weigh it at the school but the teachers don't really care for anything that isn't a lifted pickup or a muscle car.

So far:
Air Con, complete removal
Sound deadening
Trunk Carpets
Back seat
11.5 lbs battery on a custom lightweight tray
Lots of little bits and pieces like heat shields, EVAP parts, EGR etc.

I need seats and to remove the sunroof, those are big. I need to remove the sound system but driving it several hours to events makes it a nice feature.

[greddy]

I dont know how good the baffles are on the 6G series engines, but if you do serious tracking Id look into getting a baffled pan or having the OEM one baffled.

[6G72gearhead]

They have a few baffles in them, running 5 qts instead of 4.5 helps, I haven't run into any starvation at all in the 8 years I've been beating up these engines. Mine came apart very clean, almost new looking, it had spend at least 20k miles above 4k rpms at that point.

I'll probably need to baffle it at some point, but its not a major concern yet.

[8thLS6]

I'm not sure, it should be under 3k lbs though. I need to weigh it at the school but the teachers don't really care for anything that isn't a lifted pickup or a muscle car.

So far:
Air Con, complete removal
Sound deadening
Trunk Carpets
Back seat
11.5 lbs battery on a custom lightweight tray
Lots of little bits and pieces like heat shields, EVAP parts, EGR etc.

I need seats and to remove the sunroof, those are big. I need to remove the sound system but driving it several hours to events makes it a nice feature.

I'm suuure you've probably already taken it out, but what about the plate on the glove compartment door. I took my out earlier this month, and see what everyone meant, by how heavy it is lol.

[w/oarctic7g]

Sunroof and all the mounts/reinforcement etc, rear window motors, passenger wiper arm and power antennae (if you have it) probably adds up close to 100lbs

[6G72gearhead]

I'm suuure you've probably already taken it out, but what about the plate on the glove compartment door. I took my out earlier this month, and see what everyone meant, by how heavy it is lol.

Yes that and the reinforcement for the lower panel on the drivers side are gone. There is only so much I can remove though and still be legal for the class. The only way I can truly gut the car is by installing an SCCA or NASA spec cage in the car.


Sunroof and all the mounts/reinforcement etc, rear window motors, passenger wiper arm and power antennae (if you have it) probably adds up close to 100lbs

Rear window motors, any part of the wiper system is not legal to remove. I don't have a power antenna.

I'll be posting up all my Brembo swap once parts arrive this Wednesday. April needs to get here fast, my racing bug is itching sooooo bad!

[demond0d5]

Yeah, its not a fun issue since its bad news for the engine if something goes wrong.

I've been playing with ECUFlash a lot lately trying to figure out how to define my MUT tables so I can start logging in 2 bit load, anyone here tried to do anything like this?

Also I'm curious about using the big maps patch to get a finer control of the AFR's and Timing.


Hey names Jake, been texting you the last few days =]
When I go boosted im obviously going to need some tuning, did you ever get all that figured out where you could do everything basically yourself or do you have a hookup somewhere that you trust? im thinking late summer at the earliest would be when I get my build started/finished (compiling parts for now) and have been looking at shops around KC (Mc racing, revline, modified by kc, etc...) but if you are capable I would much rather work with someone that "specializes" on these cars ya know ^.^
HMU here or text me, you got my number, and let me know, Thanks!

[6G72gearhead]

The last month of waiting for race season to start is worse then a herpes flare up.... Wait uuuuuhhhhhhh?




Anyways, the brake swap went well, pics should be up when I get my computer back. Still gotta get it all bled and it will be ready ish.

Jake, I can tune it well enough to make it safe to drive, but I'm not experienced enough to tune it for peak power. Chad from MKC does a good job with evo's, but lately I've heard his tuning on other stuff has been slipping, again hearsay, but concerning. RevLine wouldn't touch my car, but that was when Choung ran it, they are still a Honda shop though. MC Racing is heavily domestic, but not exclusively. The only good tuners I know specialize in LS engines or Ford modulars.

[demond0d5]

yeah that's about what I had figured, I was pretty sure revline would evade it like a plague (damn Honda people) and MC always had muscle when I was around to fill my bottle so I figured they wouldn't be toooooo stoked. Heard from a guy named Antonio about MKC working on his rx7 and said they did decent...figure ill probably take it there if I cant find anywhere semi-close that would be better.

what sorta stuff should I buy before I take it somewhere or should a shop like MKC have everything and just hand them a stack of cash? I plan on getting the obvious gauges and stuff, mainly so I can monitor after everything is said and done, but is there anything I would need to take? pretty new to the concept of tuning

[demond0d5]

and FYI by gauges im thinking the following:
Innovate LC1 wideband AFR - installed, works awesome!
Volts (have a huge system) - custom made by yours truly for dual optima setup
Boost (with coolingmist methanol injection controller) - purchased, not installed
Intake Temp - getting soon

Im also thinking about getting either EGT, Fuel pressure, or oil temp (if I get A/T oil cooler)

[6G72gearhead]

The brake set up is complete, been getting the pads worn in, they don't like cold at all. I also should have gone to braided steel lines long ago.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/701b9b32-617c-4868-b4be-60f1dacb4c55_zpsf1a7493a.jpg (http://s138.photobucket.com/user/autoxgalant72/media/701b9b32-617c-4868-b4be-60f1dacb4c55_zpsf1a7493a.jpg.html)

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0173_zps7ebe0032.jpg (http://s138.photobucket.com/user/autoxgalant72/media/DSCN0173_zps7ebe0032.jpg.html)

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0181_zps603d14b6.jpg (http://s138.photobucket.com/user/autoxgalant72/media/DSCN0181_zps603d14b6.jpg.html)

The paint sucks, but it drives awesome, this is as clean as she gets.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0188_zpsbea36da1.jpg (http://s138.photobucket.com/user/autoxgalant72/media/DSCN0188_zpsbea36da1.jpg.html)

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0189_zps3f26d200.jpg (http://s138.photobucket.com/user/autoxgalant72/media/DSCN0189_zps3f26d200.jpg.html)

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0190_zps7a808033.jpg (http://s138.photobucket.com/user/autoxgalant72/media/DSCN0190_zps7a808033.jpg.html)

One of my good friends passed away this past September, he was an amazing person and a major car guy, so the racecar will forever be badged in his memory.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0191_zps6d46cf4f.jpg (http://s138.photobucket.com/user/autoxgalant72/media/DSCN0191_zps6d46cf4f.jpg.html)

[wetamup2k3g]

The brembo's peeking thru are the only hint that she's a beast, total sleeper! Although the cancer sucks, it adds to the sleeper status.

[6G72gearhead]

Its fun because it really gets a lot of attention at the track for how stock it appears and how quick it moves. People seem to think they weigh 500-800 lbs more then they do.

I'm trying to decide how I want to paint it when it comes time, its gonna be a competition car for the rest of its life. I just gotta decide if I'm gonna leave it as a street/autocross car and then build a Volvo for stage rally or if I want to stick to tarmec and build the thing into a time attack monster.

[xd_01]

Time attack monster!

[M-Rod]

^this!

[6G72gearhead]

I'm not gonna abandon the car or anything, just postpone the cage plans for a few years while I start into some airborn, sideways, gravel slinging rally action! Then after I get going with that start pushing the Galant into time attack.

[6G72gearhead]

So this happened.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxcKiHGsq-o&feature=youtu.be

[Black8GV6]

dang, good job man

[carl3g]

Looks like fun

[xd_01]

Damn that looks hard and your really moving too! What kind of track is that?

[wetamup2k3g]

The slalom was cool as hell! The G takes off pretty good too. Nice show of skill!

[coconut]

Looks like fun ..

[xd_01]

What camera are you using?

[6G72gearhead]

I have a GoPro Hero 3 and a Nikon pocket camera, the GoPro video is getting edited with the footage from the D7000 and the pocket cam, but I should have that up later in the week.

There where some other really badass cars out, I have video of quite a few of them so that will be in my compilation. I really hope I got my full spin in one of my first runs during the slalom, I think I brushed it off pretty well.


xd_01, its an autocross, you should do one. They aren't as fast as track days, but with how tight all the features of the course are it will train your instinctual reactions to be very quick with correcting oversteer and understeer. I'm hoping to get out to a few track days this summer, but autocross is way cheaper and more accessible practice in the meantime.

The BFG Rivals run slaloms soooooo well, I never dreamed of a street tire that would handle how these do. I guess it doesn't hurt that they are 255 width.

I placed 2nd in SMF (Steet Modified Front Wheel Drive), I lost to a Mini Cooper S, of the turbo variety, who had an upgraded turbo pushing it to 260 whp, so 70 more then what I dyno'd at, and was on Hoosier A6 r-comps. He only beat me by .7 seconds, and Saturday I had him by 1.5 seconds, so the car has a lot of potential, I just need to learn to guide it to that.

I'm seriously researching a new tire set up, I need R-comps, and I need bigger, so I'm measuring for a 295-315 front tire and a 275 rear, if the rear doesn't work 255's out back fit and will suffice, but I need big steer wheels, and the softer compound will be a bonus as well.

[6G72gearhead]

Here we go, here is the video from the actual even Sunday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aHCW8-Komw

[coconut]

Looks like fun!! Awesome job in the handling skills.

[8thLS6]

Nice driving, plus I like how you can see the changes in approach for different turns in between runs. Even if you didn't post times, you can see the improvements

[6G72gearhead]

That is 100% why I film my runs, I'm really disappointed the driver cam didn't work. I can review the footage at a later point and figure out what is costing me speed on course.

Again, its unreal how far this car has come, when I started I was one of the slowest out there, now I'm consistently in the top 20 cars, including the formula cars, shifter karts, and the full prepared monsters. This past weekend in RAW time I was 12th overall, outrunning the SM Evo that is considered a national competitor.

[wetamup2k3g]

Very nice driving there!

[6G72gearhead]

Thanks for the good words guys! This last event didn't go quite so well though, all my competitors got to run 1st heat, which ment they ran dry runs, and the only dry run I got was my first, and I coned at the damned Chicago box, which would have been good enough for 1st if I hadn't coned. Oh well.

The car will not longer start in the rain. If its not raining, I can hit the key and it fires right up, rain starts to fall and it won't turn over and acts like a bad battery... Weird.

So what do you guys like for seats? Keep in mind I need bolstering and light weight, also being able to use a 3 point while driving to and from the track is also important. I have a hook up on NRG stuff through a guy in town, I have also been looking at Ultra-Sheild seats as they are a popular choice among the really fast guys.

[DEADEYES]

I personally think that stock cloth 350z seats are very nice, they are also pretty darn light iirc. Dunno what they usually run but just a thought.

[6G72gearhead]

Those are comfortable, but I'm looking for like sub 10 lbs.

I really wish I fit in a 350z, they are fun cars!

[greddy]

Recaro SPG, Bride Vios 3. I like both. Both are in the realm of 12-13 pounds though. I daily my car with a 3 point on the bride works great since I have it fed through the side slots. What are your pertinent dimensions?

[DEADEYES]

Those are comfortable, but I'm looking for like sub 10 lbs.

I really wish I fit in a 350z, they are fun cars!

Ah I forgot for a second that your car is a track/autox machine lol

My friend has one and aside from the shitty plastic interior pieces (like all cars now days) its a nice car to drive and abuse in the winding country roads.

[6G72gearhead]

Currently the issue with Sparco, Recaro, Bride and all them is cost, hopefully that will change at the end of the year, but for now its a battle.

This is what I've been looking at as they seem to be pretty popular with the cone race crowd, I think I can make the 3 pt work with them as well.
http://www.ultrashieldrace.com/catalog/Road-Race-Seats/Standard-Road-Race-Seats/Rally-Sport-Seat/160

[6G72gearhead]

So the car tried to eat the wiring to the crank sensor at the track today. Fortunately it just grounded out slightly and I was able to fix it with zip ties and electrical tape, but now I gotta fix it right. I'll have video up here in a day or two since I took a pretty sweet spin. I just felt off my game though, with such a busy weekend and rushing to get to the event took a lot out of me, hopefully next event will go more smoothly.

Martin I'm a 16" seat width. I can fit in a 15" but its rather tight.

[6G72gearhead]

Took the dyno performance testing class this past week, and since I had the only tuning system for a personal vehicle we decided to tune the Galant on the schools dyno so other students could see what was involved with adjusting a computer controlled fuel and ignition system.

Here is how the day went, started with a baseline runs, since the instructors at the school are used to using the dyno for diagnostics and IM240 emissions tests and don't really do anything in the performance industry they insist on using the DLC to obtain the RPM signal for OBDII vehicles and are dependent on a smart tac, which doesn't work. So I finally figured out how to set the rpm through wheel speed.

This is what a dyno graph looks like with a malfunctioning DLC. Here is 2 of the baseline runs, not sure why both got printed.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/05_16_14_run2_small_zps84b35fa3.jpg

The next one is more interesting, you can see how the curve should look, but with the DLC trying to fall off and losing RPM signal its interesting to see that peak hp and tq where fairly accurate, but the graph itself is useless.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/05_16_14_run3_small_zpsd0443592.jpg

After learning about how different dyno's work, and their accuracy potential I have no interest in using anything other then an eddy current or a water brake type dyno, the others are just not accurate, (except for the big AC/DC units, but its pretty much only the OEM's that can afford them) so any measurements for scientific purposes should be taken with the most accurate instruments available. An eddy current dyno has the ability to hold an engine at a constant rpm no matter how much throttle you throw at it.

So to tune ignition timing through more then just WOT conditions we set the dyno to hold a certain rpm and logged as throttle was applied all the way to wide open. This allowed me to set timing from 30% to 110% load. We did this test every 500 rpm from 2500 to 6000. If knock was found the timing was retarded 1 degree and the test repeated. If no knock was found ignition was advanced 2 degrees until the knock threshold was reached, once found timing was retarded 1 degree and test repeated.

I wish I could have done fuel, but without a wideband was not something we could have done accurately.

So this is the baseline after the first round of tuning, this time using rpm calculated through wheel speed.

Boom, here is what a dyno graph should look like. Here it made 204 hp and 214 tq, the final run in this series made 206 hp and 224 tq.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/05_16_14_run5_small_zpse695de9d.jpg

We continued to tweak the timing side of the tune and eventually pulled another 10 hp out of it. so during the day we went from 198 hp to 216 hp, I wish the 216 hp 226 tq graph got printed, but here is 214hp and 225tq, which is close enough.

The spike at the beginning of the graph was me waiting too long to shift into 3rd, since the test window was set to start at a certain wheel speed it started recording just before the shift.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/05_16_14_run7_small_zpsac8bdc85.jpg


What I continually notice is the manifold pressure stays high all the way to around 4500 rpm and then starts to gradually drop all the way to the rev limiter. It doesn't drop an incredible amount, to a maximum of 3-4" hg, but I really wonder if there is power gain to be had with a larger throttle and a good freer flowing manifold.

The other issue is at the lower end of the graph tq is flatlined until 3500 rpm then ramps up very aggressively. Is this a normal thing that might have something to do with the cams or could this be due to my fuel map not being tuned correctly? Since that is around the rpm I exit most corners at I'd like to try and improve power in that area, of course to get into fuel I need widebands.

[6G72gearhead]

So I found 6G75 Mivec for $650.........

[Silvertune]

You'd blow that thing up in no time putting it through the events you take on.

[6G72gearhead]

Really? I need something that can hold 7 grand for an afternoon. Would ARP rod and main stud/bolts help at all?

[Silvertune]

You'd have to get the block completely blueprinted and balanced with the ARP bolts and studs, but then you should have no problem revving it as long as you don't cross the 7000 rpm line. The 3.8's use cheap bearings and the short rod long stroke nature of the shortblock doesn't mix well with them. People spin main bearings with them, rod bearings, stretch main studs, you name it. All that with wayyyy less abuse than you're rambunctious 3.0 endures.

[6G72gearhead]

I see, that is disappointing. I knew it wasn't a good design for high rpm use but the extra power is tempting. This is why I'd like to find out how to make good N/A power from the lowly 6G72. It would be nice to get good power out of an engine that will live at 7500 rpm all day long.

[Silvertune]

272's, big tb, big IM and some very precise port work and you could see 260whp all day long.

Course if you're a real sucker for punishment build a 3.7 long rod mivec motor with RPW stage 2's. 400whp all motor on pump and 7500 RPM's no problem.

[6G72gearhead]

I want to build an intake manifold for 6 jenvey throttles, go even farther on my current port work and so on and so forth.

I'm just unsure what cam profile will really be optimal. There hasn't been much done with these engines in the world of natural aspiration, at least not to the extent of the likes of the VQ world and other V6 platforms that have made a lot of horsepower n/a.

I think it can be done with this one, it won't be cheap and it won't be easy and I'll probably blow up a few engines doing it, but once I'm out of school I don't have much of a problem with making that investment.

I'd like to see where that 3.7 came into existence, that sounds like a build I need to read.

[Silvertune]

The four banger guys aren't the only ones who can mix and match cranks and blocks with custom rods. If you're ballsy you can run a 97mm bore over the 85.8mm stroke. Put that under a set of ported and cammed MIVEC heads or even a ridiculously cammed up set of non mivec heads (they have identical flow potentials as far as ports go) with the breathing support above them and the sky is the limit. The 6g75's react to modifications the same if not better than most other V6's. People are making 30+whp/wtq over advertised crank numbers at the wheels with basic port work and decent bolt ons with stock cams. Hopefully I'll have M-rod set for the dyno soon here. Between him and Bhuddalawton on the other forum it should be possible to get a pretty good idea of where the 3.8's capabilities lie.

[demond0d5]

idk if it would work but:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=28777
could be worth looking into, idk much about engines and stuff though.....happen to find that looking for some stuff a while back

[oakrdrs187]

^^^$5000!

Screw that!

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

[Galantman03]

That's a little pricey IMO lol. Even though it would be cool.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[wetamup2k3g]

Looking at that kit, I saw this:


Pistons are set to 8.5:1 compression ratio.

That's not what you want for an NA build on this platform. That's for turbo. Seeing as how that's 3SX, it's targeted to 3KGT's and Stealth builds, though I think it would work in our blocks (correct me if I'm wrong).

[Silvertune]

Zone DOHC shouldn't even cross the minds of us SOHC guys anymore. Stock cam non mivec 3.8s are putting down about the same power as the most powerful all motor DOHC of all time that has well over 15 grand into the engine alone. Heck put 3k I to the heads and you're looking at well over 300whp. You can spin the 3.8s really but when you're power band is a breath above idle to 6 grand you don't need it.

[6G72gearhead]

That is what I like about the 3.8, the fact that power is well set in at 3k ish rpm and I imagine it carry's to 6k rpm, which is where I need power, but I need to be able to let it rev to 7500 ish and have it hold up, since its, many times, faster to let it rev or leave it on the limiter then to upshift and downshift. With my current gearing I drop to about 2800 rpm at lowest and wind it to 7500 rpm, so making a good curve through that is ideal. It doesn't need to idle at all or make any power below that though, lol.

[Silvertune]

You're revving a stock shortblock to 7500? Livin on the edge! Lol.

[demond0d5]

Looking at that kit, I saw this:



That's not what you want for an NA build on this platform. That's for turbo. Seeing as how that's 3SX, it's targeted to 3KGT's and Stealth builds, though I think it would work in our blocks (correct me if I'm wrong).

yeah yeah I know its for FI and 3sx is for 3000gt's and such but figured it might be worth sparking some ideas or conversations ^.^ and it should work on ours, I've no idea why it wouldn't I mean that's the absolute center so even though its all flipped around the middle doesn't really change ya know.
like silvertune said, no reason 4 cyl should be the only guys that can't mix and match parts. if you need everything you can get out of a n/a then you gotta do what you gotta do...

now what would stop you from using the crank but using say...wiseco pistons or something? that even possible? like I said before, im not much of an internal engine guy, more about add on stuff and aftermarket but im learning =]

[demond0d5]

and while we are at it, would this fuel rail work? Id guess its for 3kgt but should be about the same right
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=34385
the mani they have pictured looks about like the diamonte mani doesn't it?

and I've been looking for pistons but the wiseco site is confusing as shit, would these work too
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=28405

[Silvertune]

Nothing you've shared from 3sx is worth even considering. By mixing and matching parts I'm talking about putting a 3.5 crank in a 3.8 block, under 3.8 pistons with custom long rods. Billet 3.4 liter stroker kits are a WASTE when you can buy a whole 3.5 for $200 and still spin it higher. Billet fuel rails are a WASTE when the $20 stock rail upgrades are found like grains of sand in yards nationally that are already bigger than AN six. And unless you personally are going to show proof that the DOHC pistons don't hit SOHC valves don't even think about recommending someone else do so.

[6G72gearhead]

Haha, yes this thing see's 7500 regularly and doesn't gripe about it, but I know going any higher is looking for trouble.

So when you go with a 6g74 crank in a 6g75 it ill increase the rod stroke ratio and ease some issues that go along with having a small one, but will there still be any of the bearing issues you mentioned beforehand, or is that just solved in the rebuild?

The 6G72 just seems like it was built to rev, long rods, big bore, super short stroke. I'd like to see where power can be found there. However as much as I want that right now I want to win, so I'm after whatever will build good usable power.

Maybe its been found otherwise, but I don't see the n/a V6's needing more fuel flow than the stock fuel rail can support, bigger injectors yes, adjustable pressure regulator, probably, but the fuel supply won't be near what an FI engine will require.

[demond0d5]

hey silvertune that's exactly why I often state I don't know anything about the engine stuff. hell I see it as beneficial cuz a lot more people out there like me that don't know this stuff and now, if they read this, they will know it wont work ya know. maybe we just saved somebody from wasting a bunch of cash on something that wont work ^.^

[mysticj]

Haha, yes this thing see's 7500 regularly and doesn't gripe about it, but I know going any higher is looking for trouble.

So when you go with a 6g74 crank in a 6g75 it ill increase the rod stroke ratio and ease some issues that go along with having a small one, but will there still be any of the bearing issues you mentioned beforehand, or is that just solved in the rebuild?

The 6G72 just seems like it was built to rev, long rods, big bore, super short stroke. I'd like to see where power can be found there. However as much as I want that right now I want to win, so I'm after whatever will build good usable power.

Maybe its been found otherwise, but I don't see the n/a V6's needing more fuel flow than the stock fuel rail can support, bigger injectors yes, adjustable pressure regulator, probably, but the fuel supply won't be near what an FI engine will require.

Modified some Chevy 6.125" rods with the 6g74 crank and you will not only increase the R/S ratio but also gain a little bump in compression with the 6g75 pistons.

6g75 are limited to 6800rpm and even then the thin bearings overheat, worse on a FI build. 7200rpm is max with better bearings on the 90mm stroke or end up like that 6g75 drag Mirage: parted out.

[Silvertune]

end up like that 6g75 drag Mirage: parted out.

You should PM me with the story on this.

[6G72gearhead]

Shit just post it here, I'd like to see this!

Well I've been having an input shaft bearing noise for some time now and finally decided to do something about it. Well since my buddy wanted to know how long it takes to get the gearbox out I timed myself, 50 minutes on the nose, not bad for hand tools and jackstands. Got the box apart shortly after, the input bearing is the only one making noise, the others look to be in really good shape, so I got that one on order and it should be here soon. Since the other side uses a sealed bearing I shouldn't have to reshim the diff or the output shaft, right?

I ordered an Ultra-Shield spec miata seat today, I'll be sure to post pictures of that when I get it.

So some stupid raccoon ran out in front of me last night and I blasted him with my drivers corner, most of it was just plastic and he didn't get my bumper cover, but the inner fender liner, and the liner between the wheel well and the gearbox got destroyed.

This past Sunday was event #4 for me, unfortunately I only got the first 2 runs, if that, so no kick ass video. It turns out one of my front swaybar links broke recently, the car felt funny on the highway, but I couldn't see anything wrong when I inspected it. Well, turns out the bottom stud broke and the thing would slip back in when the car was sitting still, and look like it was attached.

In spite of that set back I managed to place 16th out of 113, which isn't too bad, considering if the backend would have behaved and I didn't cone (by just barely) on my fastest run I would have placed 11th.

So I'm hoping with the new seat I can keep my struggles with sliding around on the seat to a minimum and hopefully start getting into top 10 positions. If I can start competing with the likes of Mark Hill, Craig Wilcox and some of our regions national champion drivers I should be standing on a good shot at breathing down the necks of the Civics at nationals.

[demond0d5]

Shit just post it here, I'd like to see this!

seconded! always nice to read up on another build, never know what you're gonna learn!


sucks about the raccoon bro, I got some links at oreilly the other day that were like twice as big as the ones that were on the car...not sure if you're looking for something massive or what but the masterpro ones they had seemed pretty beefy

[6G72gearhead]

I've been busy with tidying up random things on the car as of late, but I did get one new awesome piece of gear.....

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0233_zps696838a5.jpg

Its really comfy and it only weighs 6 lbs!

Down the road I need to get one for the passenger side and cover them in plaid!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0234_zps9a61215c.jpg

Its cat approved, haha.

[demond0d5]

here everyone else is putting in highflow cats or cat deletes and you are installing them in your seats!:044:

[DEADEYES]

Wow that seat looks crazy uncomfortable but I can't argue with a cats choice, haha.
But for real only 6lbs! Thats nuts, hope it holds up well to that abuse you'll be putting it through.

[6G72gearhead]

I thought they would be as well until I sat in one. Just enough padding to really do its job. They are very well designed in that its the bare minimum to maintain comfort and strength.

They are really strong, good welds, good structure, they are really popular in my area for racecars, I can't imagine they would be so popular if anyone was having durability issues.

Next week I'll have the mounting brackets fab'd up and get this thing in the car.

[2002BlackDragon]

Are they just a local company or do you have a link to them?

Sent from my Z796C using Tapatalk

[DEADEYES]

Good deal if you don't mind me askin how much did it run ya?

Can't wait to see it in the car.

[xd_01]

nice seat, try to position yourself as low as you can.

[6G72gearhead]

They are out of Texas, they make drag and circle track seats all the way to full containment road racing seats. The price is the best part, it was just under $315 to my door.


When I mount it I have to use a slider and I can't modify the floor to do it, so I gotta get as creative as possible to mount it low.

[DEADEYES]

Wow thats not bad at all, good deal man

[demond0d5]

whats the advantage of being low? better protection during a roll or something (like so you don't hit the roof?)

[6G72gearhead]

Well, at 6'5" that is a concern, but primarily its the difference in CG. The lower I can put the ballast of my body the lower I get the CG of the car.

In WRC the navigators seat is generally attached directly to the floor pan, while the drivers seat can be 2"-3" off the floor of the car. This is to keep a low CG, however as a driver issue's can arise if the seat is too low, and your legs are not at a good angle and you can't see out of the car.

[demond0d5]

ahhh ok that makes sense! i didn't think a few inches would really make a huge difference but i guess when you wanna win everything counts!

[6G72gearhead]

Anymore SCCA racing is all about splitting hairs, since the rules are very defined on what can and can't be done. Its really hard to win with an under prepared car just by being a better driver, its just too competitive.

Since I have my rear suspension out to get things cleaned up I'm currently painting my control arms orange. Why? Because its obnoxious and I can.

[2002BlackDragon]

Lol... that's awesome. Shoot us a pic when complete. I'd like to see how that turns out.

Sent from my Z796C using Tapatalk

[6G72gearhead]

Still haven't got the seat bracket templates made. it is looking like the lowest I can go is the plane of the sliders which kind of sucks, but I can deal with it, I'm still sitting about 5" lower then I was previously.

I should have the aluminum waterjetted out early next week, and I'll have some weld porn for you guys shortly after. Just gotta get these damned mopars finished up at my buddies shop to clear room.

[6G72gearhead]

Still waiting for the aluminum to come back from the water jet place.

In the meantime I did polyurethane rear knuckle bushings and cleaned up the control arms, and painted them bright orange!!!!

Why, because I fucking can.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0235_zps099f27c0.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0238_zpse2cebd23.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0239_zpsfc4575f8.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0241_zps05a69572.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0242_zps331ffe6a.jpg

Getting things settled in to get the seat mounted, I'm really excited to get this mount fabbed up, it should look really good!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0243_zps8b84fdee.jpg

I feel a big 'For sale' thread coming on, just a small sample of all the spares I've accumulated.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSCN0240_zpsb11bff24.jpg

[6G72gearhead]

So my rear toe adjusters are seized and will likely need to be cut out, so should I go with the Megan Racing toe arms or another set of factory parts?

[demond0d5]

Yeah I had mine sitting in the tech parking lot for like a week waiting to get a sawsall to cut em out last year!!! Downing wouldn't let me back into the shop even though we broke it on the alignment rack -_-

I really wanna know which y'all are going with, oe or Megan!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[6G72gearhead]

That is what I'm deciding. Guess I need to price out OEM before I get too far into it. I have yet to do that.

[demond0d5]

Used I picked a driver side up for $35


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[6G72gearhead]

Ok, this update isn't so much from work I've done on my car, but work done on another members car, demond0d5.

As far as my car is concerned I lost my damned key and am waiting for the locksmith to come program a couple new ones. I will take pictures tomorrow of the welded up and installed seat bracket!

Anyways, here are the only 2 5 spd swapped 8g's I know of in the central midwest area!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_0075_zpsc94d063e.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_0076_zps3f712392.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_0077_zps3c95596a.jpg

[6G72gearhead]

Boom!

Here is one side of the bracket at least. Gotta slot the mount holes to shift the seat slightly further inboard, but the welds came out killer, I've certainly come a long way in that department.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_0079_zpsbfb4f7d0.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_0080_zps82e29926.jpg

I didn't polish the welds, or clean them at all afterwards.

[6G72gearhead]

Here is the video from Saturdays event, I'm still working on the video for Sunday.

2 days of racing was a blast! Lots of multi-time national champions, several formula cars, so lots of competition for fast raw times.

Still I placed 18th overall, here are the raw times: http://www.kcrscca.org/results/solo/2014/2014event6_raw.htm

And here is the video!


https://http://youtu.be/sYRjzfcMGZA

[demond0d5]

bro 4sec off of first is crazy awesome!!!

[Black8GV6]

Great job, looking at all those cars you beat makes me smile

[Blue3000GTguy]

How the hell did a Cobra WIN?
Solid rear axle and all?

[6G72gearhead]

Its an IRS car, it has 315 width tires all the way around. CP is one of the most modified classes for a production based vehicle.

[Blue3000GTguy]

Ah ha!
That explains a lot, then.
I was just completely confused as to why it was so fast. Normally they're good going straight, but once you try to turn they go all asdfkgjlg.

[2002BlackDragon]

Anyone else not able to see the video?

Sent from my Z796C using Tapatalk

[Silvertune]

Anyone else not able to see the video?

Dude, you can never see the video. Get your shit fixed.

[demond0d5]

http://www.youtube.com/embed/sYRjzfcMGZA?feature=oembed

Put that in your URL black drag and see if it works


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[6G72gearhead]

Ah ha!
That explains a lot, then.
I was just completely confused as to why it was so fast. Normally they're good going straight, but once you try to turn they go all asdfkgjlg.

The pre terminator Cobra's where all more geared towards road racing then anything else, its only been recently that the crayon eaters have prevailed and the top end of the Mustang spectrum has been straight line cars. They still have the Laguna Seca and GT350 for road racing.


The second day I just couldn't manage to drop time, I just hit the 64.9 wall and couldn't pass it clean.

I only managed 26th in Raw time since it seems everyone else continued to get faster. http://www.kcrscca.org/results/solo/2014/2014event7_raw.htm

Here is the video, I just kept pushing the car too hard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVffFYmoM4E

http://youtu.be/WVffFYmoM4E

[demond0d5]

Dude I have an awful time even trying to figure out where the track is! That's some serious skill


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[2002BlackDragon]

I have a shitty phone! Don't judge me. Lol

Sent from my Z796C using Tapatalk

[2002BlackDragon]

Oh, and very nice Vid! Looks like a blast!

Sent from my Z796C using Tapatalk

[coconut]

Awsome!!!

[xd_01]

Nice runs, are you running any after market sway bars or bushings and whats up the seat did you get that installed yet?

[6G72gearhead]

Check pics on the previous page, I welded up an awesome seat bracket and its all mounted in. No bruising on my legs trying to keep myself in the car this go around!

Its all prothane and energy suspensions on everything, the rear bar is the suspension techniques piece. The combination works really well. I just need to get the damper valving set correctly. I'm at full hard in the rear and medium in the back. I'm running the next event with a national champ who is going to help me get the alignment and valving in order. Should make a big difference once I get my driving in order.

[Exhaust power]

your car seems fast as balls compared to mine in the autocross. How fast were you going? top of second gear?

[6G72gearhead]

On the 5 gear box I'm around 6k in 2nd.

Which brings me to some questions, has anyone miss matched final drives and forward ratio's between the GT and GTS trans? I'm almost thinking about buying a GT box and putting the 4.111 final drive into it just to get a super deep 1st and 2nd. If I could lower 2nd gear at current it would be of great benefit. On the road course using the .761 overdrive out of the GT might help me stay in power with the long gap between 4th and 5th in the GTS box.

I can't find anything that would interfere, should I try it?

[demond0d5]

Another thing I've been looking at is what I want to do for a wheel and tire combo. My current set up is 17x8.5 front and 17x8 rears, which is working very well, however I am limited to a 255 tire, pretty much max. If I step it out to a 9.5 and 9 I can potentially run a 275, which will give me the amount of tire I'm looking for to be very class competitive. I need to get it sorted so I can use this next race season to gather data for custom valving the dampers and really getting the car dialed in so I can start competing nationally.

hey hit me up whenever/if you decide to up the size...I just picked up some brembos and I'm gonna need rims to fit them...I'm gonna be flat broke till prolly Jan. now but if something pops up keep me in mind!

[6G72gearhead]

Its gonna be awhile before I do anything. I need to find the right set up, and save up the $1400 for tires.

[demond0d5]

Yeah I here ya there! Come jan/feb/march is when I'll prolly start looking for parts again but figured I'd throw that out there for whenever =D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[6G72gearhead]

I've figured out I can make 295's fit with flared fenders, which means I'll be running a 17x10 +18 front. The tires are $340 each and the wheels are $280 for RPF1's, so $1220 for the front end alone. Its gonna have to wait until after I graduate. Hell the 275/35/17 rears I'd need are $318 each, so just about as expensive.

However the grip will be unreal, so now I just gotta save up $2400 or so.

[demond0d5]

Yeah that's gonna be crazy!


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[6G72gearhead]

Here is video from Event #8 here in the KC region, this time back at MCC. It was a blast to run against former Solo II nationalist, suspension builder and designer, and current PSU instructor Nico Prelogar.

I only managed to place 22nd overall, tires are really holding me back at this point.

Here is the raw results: http://www.kcrscca.org/results/solo/2014/2014event8_raw.htm


http://youtu.be/84nGAxExUNg

[demond0d5]

had a student teacher/assistant kinda thing when I was in Dell's class in the tech center, name was Nico...same guy?

[6G72gearhead]

That would be the same guy, he's a genus with suspension!

Here we go for pictures I took them during 2nd heat and my girlfriend took them for 3rd heat.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_0089_zps649d6161.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_0105_zpsb6d5ff0d.jpg

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[6G72gearhead]

Didn't get the raw times I was hoping for, but its pretty much settled that I need to get r-compound tires to PAX very well in my class.

The event was a blast though, I made some adjustments which loosened the back end up considerably as some of you may notice in a couple runs at the end of the slalom.

The fastest time out there was around 47.7 out of KU Engineering's multi-winged Formula SAE car. Right around 1000 lbs and powered by a 600cc motorcycle engine and a sequential shifter, its a seriously fast car!



http://youtu.be/th-En9m-jOg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_03432_zps07f4770b.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_03452_zps9b8254b7.jpg

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[6G72gearhead]

So looking through data logs I've discovered a few things.

My speeds tent to stay between 33 and 60 mph, occasionally I get outside that but its still the average window.

The engine is running between 4000 rpm and 6000 rpm. Unless its an asphalt straight away, then it jumps straight to 7200 rpm and about 68 mph and holds until the car catches up. Which means I'm getting some pretty hard wheel spin in the straights.

Knock has been persistent around 3000 rpm and 50% throttle with 80% ECU load. This has been fixed in the tune, so hopefully its fixed.

[Exhaust power]

Nice pics galant looks pretty flat on some of corners.

[xd_01]

what are you using for a data logger?

[6G72gearhead]

I'm using the Open Port 2.0 and my dads Garmin that has a gyroscope and playback features and time stamps it, so I just line it all up and compare it to the video. A real data acquisition system would be better, but its a bit more money then I have.

Its pretty obvious though when there is a solid second and a half of the Tactrix reading 68 mph and the Garmin accelerates from 35 to 55.

[xd_01]

yea data equipment is expensive but sounds like you have a good alternative. I don't have any myself but I did download the harrys lap timer app, I haven't used it yet though. I don't think harrys collect a lot of data though.

[6G72gearhead]

The cell phone apps have always been disappointing, plus you gotta mount them solid and flat or else you don't get any usable data.

Some of the guys I run with have a program that fits their data log to a gopro allowing them to map their course and show speed, rpm, and a hud of the course in the playback video.

I would really like to get one of the systems that maps out the course I travel, so I can program in the track after I get the design and compare how well I held the optimal line. That way I can see where I can clean up my driving and keep getting faster!

[xd_01]

Most of the cell phone apps aren't precise neither. There mostly for ball park times but I do believe they come pretty close. The only reason I was considering harrys app was for a ball park figure and to see if I could overlay it on my videos so I don't have to sit there watching with a stopwatch. And Im not saying my stop watch method is precise neither lol.

The AIM SOLO is pretty popular among road racers, it doesn't a lot for the price. I want one bad but just cant pull the trigger on one yet, rather spend that on seat time. Hopefully soon though but that's why I got the Harrys app, only $10.

[greddy]

I would recommend the track attack apps developed locally in the pacnw it has been proven on countless occasions to be within hundredths of an AIM solo. Plus if you do the record option the data is automatically over laid on the video.

[xd_01]

Do you mean recording with the cell phone?

[6G72gearhead]

Is it the same as the Track Attack in the google play store? Theoretically the GPS and gyro's in the phone should be able to give a pretty good reading of what the car is doing, and should be fairly precise. I know some of my competitors are using a system that allows them to overlay each lap/run on top of each other to show their variation in their lines. I'm not sure what system they use, I really haven't looked into it that much.

[6G72gearhead]

Its weird not having anything to update. There hasn't been an event in almost 2 months, the car has been running flawlessly and I'm not modding anything until the season is over, so I've just been keeping her clean and keeping the battery charged.

On the other hand I've been working on a ton of crazy shit I'm going to have to put up here somewhere. I bought an 88 Volvo 740 wagon, which is getting a LS T56 combo, with an assortment of 240sx front suspension parts (yes they fit) and a bunch of other stuff that will make for some pretty epic hoonage. If that isn't wild enough we are bringing Keitora to the states in a big way. A little Suzuki Carry truck with a mid mounted GSXR1000 engine and gearbox, built to the hill with a Garret turbocharger! I'll share with you guys the video's of the celebratory tire slaughtering when we are finished!

[xd_01]

The wagon sounds like a fun project, wish i could add a second project.

[6G72gearhead]

Oh, this isn't a second project, its let me see, a 4th project, lol. I've got a 91 Volvo 240 Turbo that I get my boost kicks with, and a 72 Suzuki GT380 for some two wheeled action, so yeah, way too many projects, but its ok.

7 passenger drifting with the Volvo wagon will be a blast though! I'll make sure to get plenty of video of the shenanigans that ensue!

[xd_01]

lol that's gonna be alot fun for the passengers!!

[6G72gearhead]

Ok, ran event 11 and 12 this weekend, so far I have the video from the first one done, I've just been crazy busy. So here's my runs from the morning trying to clear off the marbles and warm up the tires, oh, and it helps to not drive like a ham fisted baboon!


http://youtu.be/pTQwuB6ScSw

In other news, the 740 wagon project is coming along, I've gotta fab up engine and transmission mounts before we can put the T56 and 5.3 in. My old set of JIC's are getting new use in this car. I'm currently working of fabricating knuckles that will accept the JIC damper. With the coilovers set up to give the car a good 2"-3" drop a set of Kaplhenke racing steering arms should get me to some 80* of steering angle. This thing should run fantastic once I'm done!

[6G72gearhead]

I let a buddy of mine test his mettle in the car for the 2nd runs, which he did very well given the fact that he hasn't driven the car before, or driven an autocross before, or really driven a fwd hard before, so don't give him too much crap.

So here is the comparison video between our runs.


http://youtu.be/hT73KHMg9KY

[coconut]

Damn bro!! That is so bad ass!!

[demond0d5]

Apparently a buddy of mine was parked right next to you bro! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/27/naqasypu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/27/amynujer.jpg


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[wetamup2k3g]

Small world!

[6G72gearhead]

He looked like he was having fun. He really needs to be in Street Prepared or Street Modified though, he was in street class, which means his CF hood and change of wheels and tyres, as well as what looks like aftermarket suspension. Looks like he has a pretty sweet set up he just needs to be in the right class.

Jake, if he's planning on coming out next year feel free to let him have my number and I'll help get him in the correct class!

In other news hopefully r-compound tyres will be on the Galant for next season!

[demond0d5]

Ight I'll talk to him and see what's what! Honestly I've been thinking about getting into it when I get out of school XD obviously with a different car but still...

You're runnin 255/(?) right?


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[6G72gearhead]

I've been going back through the massive amount of pictures that have been taken of my car over the past season, and I found this Gem!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/DSC_08152_zps9d8b4e19.jpg

Lol, nailed it!

[6G72gearhead]

Been quiet for awhile working on projects for the shop, figured I'd share this since I think it turned out awesome. This is my 2nd time welding titanium, especially tubing this thin, maybe .030" wall and the diameter is only the size of my index finger.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q279/autoxgalant72/20150311_011404_zps94gwcvdx.jpg

[demond0d5]

Saw that on FB, that is pretty damn good! Are you using a tig? (Can't remember what Sam has)

And what is that part?


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[6G72gearhead]

TIG is the only way to run for Ti, MIG just isn't precise enough. There might be a way to do it with MIG, but it would take a specialized set up. Then you would lose the advantage of Ti which is where it will fuse without filler.

The rod end was machined incorrectly and the tube had a crack in it, so its just scrap to practice with.

[6G72gearhead]

Its been quite awhile, I hate to be out of it for so long but I have a lot of stuff on my plate.

Finally graduated from PSU with my Bachelors degree.

My boss decided to upgrade to a new job that will allow him to achieve his goal of moving to Florida, so I took the opportunity to gather some funds and pick up a bunch of equipment, materials and a space I can use to keep moving forward on my own. So now its on to getting things rolling to get some income into the shop.

One of the things I've been doing has involved picking up an Evo 7, 8, and 9 roll center correction kit, which almost works for our platform. So close in fact that I can't actually make a damn wedge spacer to make the ball joint fit the control arm. Now maybe there is issue with the control arm I'm using for mock-up as it was replaced due to the ball joint being able to spin inside its mount, however it still measures about .7mm smaller than the Galant/Eclipse ball joint.

Aside from the difference in the outer barrel diameter of the joint literally everything else is the same.

Now simply adapting the kit to the vehicle isn't my end goal, I'm taking what I have learned in building adjustable control arms, no full details yet, but I will have them adjustable for both caster and camber. If all goes to plan there will be two versions, one with rebuildable spherical bearings, and one using polyurathane bushings for those of you street driven folk.

Once I get prototypes finalized to a production model I will get pricing and color options posted up as I will be setting up my powdercoat system.

I plan to utilize a similar design for the rear upper arms in order to minimize the extreme toe in these cars suffer from as the rear suspension is compressed closer to its limits. As I've measured from where my ride height is and where toe has been set, when compressed 3" there is a change of over 1/4" inwards, with camber also increasing tremendously.

What you all have to realize about rear toe in is that it will stabilize the tail end of the car, which is good, unless you drive a FWD car, like ours. To get the maximum handling response out of FWD cars you need to use the back end for a little turning, when toe'd in the rear end does exactly the opposite of that. With our rear suspension set up static toe responds very well with around 1/8" toe out upon corner entry, as the suspension loads to the outside and compress's the camber change causes the toe to go to up to over 1/8" in. This causes the rear thrust angle to change directions and transfer weight back to the inside, and then droop and the thrust angle once again changes direction, and this starts the fight back and forth. This makes the rear end feel as if its riding on a wobbly razor blade trying to sway back and forth, the stickier the tire and the smoother the driver the more dramatic this effect becomes.

If the rear upper arms pivot point is moved upward as it attaches to the vehicles body the camber curve will be changed reducing the progressive camber increase as the suspension compresses.

Again, this will be available in spherical bearing and polyurathane versions.

I feel its about time some serious parts came out for this platform and I'm in a position to make that a reality.

I've been working with a company called Steinjager to provide the bearings and bushings I will use, they have been around for a good many years providing such products for the off-road and fabrication community, and after the run of parts I build I will be making sure spherical bearing rebuilds and similar parts are available. Also even though I must say I plan to move my production to beyond our platform I will keep the design and materials list to continue support after I have ceased production.

I talk about after production plans because even though I have enjoyed my time with this community and this platform but I must be realistic in understanding the market is small and will not support an extended focus. That being said though, I will be available to help support these after I have made them and I am more than happy to help anyone with custom fabrication needs.

[demond0d5]

That's badass man! I'm stoked to see what you come up with


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[xd_01]

Ive been wondering were you been! Looking forward to it and good luck in your new endeavor!!

[6G72gearhead]

Still working on design, I want these to be stronger and lighter than factory, the issue is keeping them adjustable. I have a couple ideas for that, but its not as straight forward as you might think.