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kendotelie
05-20-2013, 04:37 PM
hello all. Any and all tips appreciated.

I have a 2004 Galant ES 160K. Since i purchased the car second hand 6 months ago, i would occasionally run into the problem of my accessories not coming on when i start the car. This includes dash lights, radio(stock & aftermarket), dome, and clock. This happens rarely, but happens. I more recently(for a week now) have had the issue of all power in the car being disconnected/off when i stop the car, after removing the key. I'll leave the car, but when i return, the key-fob doesn't get a response, there are no lights on when the door is open, neither the dome or dash or clock. I can start the car with no problem, my now aftermarket radio has lost its memory, but not the clock. What could this be? I suspect the ignition switch, but its just a guess? If so, how easy is it to replace?

qnz
05-20-2013, 08:55 PM
The first thing I would say is to check the battery terminal connectors and that they are clean.

bgood12
05-20-2013, 11:59 PM
I agree, the main things that can do that are terminals, and grounds. Grounds sometimes get over looked. It sucks cause it's arduous task. start at battery and work out checking fuses and relays as well maybe buy a cheap multimeter.

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Gotti
05-21-2013, 11:19 AM
Might want to remove the L/F kick panel. Make sure the big fat connector is not corroded

kendotelie
05-23-2013, 08:16 AM
Thanks for the tips. It turned out to be a lose ground cable that comes directly from the negative terminal on the battery.

bgood12
05-26-2013, 02:58 AM
Glad I suggested the ground and you found it.

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kendotelie
06-07-2013, 10:47 AM
Looks like the problem has returned. The ground I tightened before it's still tight do I'm back to square one

wetamup2k3g
06-07-2013, 04:08 PM
I just had to replace my battery-to-chassis ground cable entirely earlier this week from having the same problems. What I did was jumped the negative battery cable to a chassis ground (I used the connection for the battery ground to chassis) using jumper cables and everything started right up. If that works, the ground cable is probably corroded all to hell like mine was and is just too resistant to function properly. I replaced that and haven't had any problems since, I used a very large 1 AWG cable, which is overkill.

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k525/wetamup2011/84E61CD4-455C-4E8E-A6B1-034CB078BEE2-4821-000004225C9F29F8_zps6e31e79a.jpg
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k525/wetamup2011/84EB7DB7-A66C-4D75-BBCC-49A791B1E7B3-4821-0000042260BCD0CF_zps79d0ce24.jpg

Hope this helps!

kendotelie
06-07-2013, 04:42 PM
thanks, i'll try that. I know i have a 8 AWG cable in the trunk somewhere. Kinda annoyed that i keep having to reset the darn presets

wetamup2k3g
06-07-2013, 05:07 PM
If you do 8 AWG, double it up. I think the factory one is 4 gauge. That red cable in my pic is for my amp, and it is either 8 or 6 gauge, which is entirely too small for the entire electrical system's main ground. I suspect it's too small for my amp. And yes, I hate dialing in my presents and my EQ settings to only have to redo them all again.

kendotelie
06-20-2013, 08:11 PM
so another issue but major this time...I never got around to changing the the ground cable. but here goes the new issue.

today, stopped to pick up the kiddies with a friend. I turned the car off, but because the friend was staying behind, i tried to start the car back up 3 seconds later. On the first start there was a weird grinding noise and no start. I stopped and tried again but this time it sounded like a flooding problem. I stopped and tried again but this time nothing at all. There is no turnover, not even a click. Could this be the starter? Battery terminals are clean, battery is a month old. Any help appreciated. Where is the starter on the 6cyl 9g? Easily accessed?

qnz
06-20-2013, 10:34 PM
still may be related. One time, I did not tighten my positive battery terminal. drove somewhere, turned off car, turned it back on, and it wouldn't click either and all the electronics died. Took my a few min to realize the positive terminal was not tight. Maybe trace the positive terminal and make sure its connect to the fuse box and starter

kendotelie
06-21-2013, 08:07 AM
All electronics work normally. When I turn the key to start (no crank) I hear one click and humming. I forgot to mention that when this initially happened, there was a smell. It smelled like burning wires

bgood12
06-21-2013, 10:01 AM
Man I have no clue I would have to think a groundout somewhere, but check wires around starter and alternator. Cause you should hear more clicks at least, and those wires are by a lot of heat.

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kendotelie
06-21-2013, 03:16 PM
so im 49% done with the replacement of the starter, damn top bolt wont come loose. Put PB on it and i'll have to see if i can use my breaker bar on it. The starter is actually easy to get to

bgood12
06-21-2013, 04:20 PM
Did they test the starter and say out was bad

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kendotelie
06-24-2013, 09:27 AM
im 100% done now. The new starter worked like a charm. I have a really low idle now, but im able to get where i need to go now. That bolt that i couldnt get off turned out to be incorrect one. I didnt realize that the bolts that secured the starter to the trans were on opposite sides