forged pistons and rods

[leadfoot]

i have desided on getting Je pistons and crewer rod's. im not exactly sure what this involves is it as simple as replaceing the set's or is there alot of work that am unaware of?

[00GTZ00]

may I ask why you want to do this? are you planning on running boost?


Well to replace the pistons and rods you are going to need to take out the engine/tranny, Remove the upper and lower intake, drain all the fluids, remove the heads remove the oil pan, then unblot the pistons from the crank, remove the crank, the push out the rods and pistons. Then just reverse the order you took everything out, replacing all the crank berings and all the gaskets and seals that you removed/took off the engine in the removal process.

[escoson]

as 00gtz00 stated he is 100% accurate. to a mechanicly inclined person it sound like a real hard thing to do. but a good mechanic should have no problem doing this for you.

[manybrews]

actually, its much easier to just install the new rods/pistons without removing the engine from the car.

[DJ Galant]

manybrew is right, u don't need to take out the block to put pistons and rods.
Only removal of the head is necessary .

[leadfoot]

im going to run boost in the future but before that im trying to make the motor breeth and run better. im getting a ripp supercharger and hopefully going to run 10 plus psi off it. my goal is 350 to 400whp on nos and about 300 to 320 with out. ripp is suposidly working on an intercooler SDS so im waiting on that but in the mean time i want to make my motor strong. what power gain's can i expect from this and will i loose compression?

[00GTZ00]

You might gain a few HP from the install simply because they are new parts. The only reason that you should lose compression is if you go from the approx 9:1 (or 9.5:1 I forgot what the 4 cyl is) pistons to the 8:1 pistons, which these are the ones that would be ideal if you are going to run boost. And running the 8:1 pistons with no S/C would be dumb IMO because of the loss of power. If you are truly goijng to do all those mods then you are heading in the right direction!

[HeadAche]

For the JE's to fit you will have to bored out the block .20 for them to fit correctly...

[burthold]

forged pistons do not react the same way to heating thats why you usually have to bore the block .020 over to make sure you don't oval a piston. I'm sticking with the stock compression just moving to all forged parts in prep of the SDS as well. I am doing a motor rebuild while I'm at it any way I don't want to replace the rear main later and I'm rebuilding the tranny so it just makes sinse to send the block to a qualified rebuilder. Looks like more people are prepping for the SDS https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

Wes

[DJ Galant]

For the JE's to fit you will have to bored out the block .20 for them to fit correctly...

you don'r have to bore the block or do anything to fit them correctly.
Me and AK1 got the JE pistons 8.5:1 compression and they are excatly same measurments to fit our blocks with no bore.
JE PISTONS have excact measurments of our pistons, so when u call them, tell them what engine, year of the car, etc and they should have measurmenst in thei computer, cuz AK1 send them our stock pistons to measure that shit.


If u want a to bore your block and go plus .20, u can do it. But this is optional.

[leadfoot]

inbetween the forged pistons and the S/C there will be about a 3 to 4 month time, in getting other part's and swaping the tranny, and installing them but that's all in the future right now i need to get a price on kamikazi header's becuase im going to be getting them in the next week or two does anyone know where i can get them and how much they will be? i was also going to ask if i get the motor bored .20 will it be worth the time and money in other words will the difference between the stock bore and the .20 will i get a 20 wph diference? if not then i wont even bother. and no i dont want to go down on compression to my understanding the more compression a block and the more power you will make with a given amount of psi.

[burthold]

There is no point in overboreing if you don't need it .20 isn't going to gain you much maybe 1hp. If there aren't any heat expantion issues with these pistons then you shouldn't have to bore the block unless its got some problems with the cylender walls.

Wes

[00GTZ00]

Going .20 over will help if you are going to add boost to your car. going .20 will allow you to put even more air/fuel in your cyl.

[burthold]

If you do the math .20 isn't worth it at all. .40 .60 and a stroker kit will get you more displacement if that is what you want. I'll see if I can dig up the numbers again.

Wes

[leadfoot]

so is the .20 bore worth it or not im not really wanting to put my car in the shop and wait 1 month to get this done and then have close to nothing of results i think in going to go ahead when i get the money and get the stage 2 cam shafts, gears, and forged pistons, and rods. i will have them puting them on, my uncle should have no problem doing this. im still looking for price range on the header i want will kamikaze header fit on the the stock piping?

[00GTZ00]

Find out what your ultimate goal is for your car. Do you want every little HP you can push out of your car? do you want a performance buildup from the block on up? or do you want basic overall performance?

If you just want basic performance then it's not worth boring your engine because you will never utilize that mod.

If you are wanting to build a good performance engine, you need to start with the block and work your way up. this is were the .20 will benifit you. with going this route, you would start with the block, get it bored over .20. make sure the deck is level. Get the block totaly cleaned and looked over for any "spots" of concern. Then get the crank cleaned and inspected, (Might as well Balance and blueprint while it is out if you have the $$) Then get your Forged rods and pistons with new berings. Match the berings to the rods and crank (but make sure you get the pistons on the rods before you do this, Just makes things easier) Then take the rods back off the crank so you can put the crank back on the block. Put the pistons and rods in the block first then the crank. Make sure to keep the end caps of the rods together with the rods they came off of so you do not get mismatched caps on the rods (did this once, the extra work involved to get them matched up again sux) Then once the piston,rods and crank are back in the block it is time to work the heads over. P&P the intake and exaust ports. mulit-angle valve job, reverse swirl valves (if you can find them) polish the bowls. New performance cams, springs and rockers. then you can gasket match the lower intake to the head and the upper intake to the lower. Don't forget the cam gears. I would also suggest new water pump, maybe some pullys etc.etc.

This is were the boring of your block will show, Once everything is back together and runningyou will make more power with a bored block then without. But this is JMO. If I was rebuilding my engine or going for the besst N/A of FI engine I could build I would make sure to do everything I could to extract the most power out of my ca ras I could


sorry for the long post

[leadfoot]

woops

[leadfoot]

before i do all the motor work i want to get the exhaust and intake manifold's P&Ped how much is safe so that the air flow in greater but they dont break down?and it's no problem with the long post the more info the better. my plans were as include.
header
custon 2.5 inch high flow cat back exhaust
APR
S-AFC
P&P I/M and E/M ( dont know how much)
70mm throttle body have the intake manifold fitted to it.
i dont know what intake but an intake the will go good ith the 70mm TB
walbo fuel pump
330cc injectors
JE forged pistons
crewer rods
valve springs
stage 2 cam shafts(still have to call for prices)
cam gears
aem pulleys exept for crank pulley not work it
then tranny swap to M/T
ripp S/C running above 10 psi
and i guestimate 300whp out of this
then when all the motor stuff is done a 50 or 75 shot of nos
and some where in there 18's velox rims, brembo brakes, and peroformance springs and shocks but before the S/C
please post if you think im missing something i know i am i made this in about 5 min off the top of my head. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif