Upgrade 02 8g 2.4l 4g64

[birchette42]

Ok so I got a Mitsubishi galant 2.4l 4g64 with 194k I want to port and polish intake manifold and thottle body. new fuel injector. bigger fuel pump. After market fuel pressure regulator. Wat kind of gain will come from that

[birchette42]

I also have obx header and n1 cutback exhaust and obx coils

[oakrdrs187]

All of 10whp! My friend, now go do it!

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

[birchette42]

With 02 Mitsubishi eclipse overdrive pulley kit and obx radiator hoses

[kylecanthurdle]

any kind of NA 4g64 build is a lost cause. you will not see any substantial gains unless you throw a turbo (and the complimenting mods) on these engines. the overdrive pulley was a waste as well and the rad hoses do nothing but make your engine bay "look pretty" if thats what youre going for. imho OBX is the cheapest ebay brand of anything you can get. all of these topics have been covered already so a quick search will find most answers whether you agree or not. remember, we've been there and done that. if any of those things you listed bumped the HP or torque enough to notice after the slushbox tranny chewed it up and spit it out then it would be stickied everywhere all over this site.

[Black8GV6]

If you want to port the OEM intake manifold you can't, get the 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander non-mivec intake manifold, that one you can port, it's aluminum. For any performance you need to go turbo.

[birchette42]

Ok so can I put a turbo on stock motor if not wat do I need to do

[oakrdrs187]

Turbo the stock motor. Unheard of. This is going nowhere fast...






GreddyIvory8gtonameacouple
Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

[2002BlackDragon]

Research and read the forum... All of the questions your asking have been mentioned tons of time before. You are not going to make a good name for yourself like this... im just saying...

[demond0d5]

forum > turbos, superchargers, & nitrous > very first sticky

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?38229-How-to-turbocharge-your-4g64-8g

[kylecanthurdle]

its crazy how if this were any other forum im on then this person would be flamed for this. 3 threads started simultaneously and all with dumbass questions that have been answered manyyyyyy times on here. stop and search please noob

[demond0d5]

Ok so I got a Mitsubishi galant 2.4l 4g64 with 194k I want to port and polish intake manifold and thottle body. new fuel injector. bigger fuel pump. After market fuel pressure regulator. Wat kind of gain will come from that

I'll take a quick crack at breaking this down for you. as I always state, I am pretty new to all this and do not take my word for anything without a grain of salt. do some research prior and see what the real pro's are doing!



starting with the absolutely worthless for a stock engine:
fuel injectors - wont do anything at all unless you do something to require more fuel...if anything you could actually flood the cylinder (correct me if im wrong guys) by injecting too much fuel because the computer
thinks it is injecting less than it actually is...look up injector scaling and what not for better/more info
fuel pump - wont do anything at all unless you do something to require more fuel...all the pump does is push more fuel to the fuel rail, which in turn pushes it into the injectors...
fuel pressure regulator (FPR) - takes the excess fuel from the oversized pump and calms it down to where you want it...

Fuel system upgrades do absolutely nothing without a need for them...I.E. heavily modded N/A (naturally aspirated) ((no turbo/supercharger/nitrous)) or going boosted



ported intake manifold - helps flow air better. will help a very small amount, maybe noticeable but not really...until other/heavier mods are done
ported throttle body - will help a very miniscule amount...at best you will notice a little better throttle response but that's about it...

these are the only "performance" upgrades you listed and they are not enough to require any fuel system upgrades at all




ask anyone on here, I have been where you are right now, and still am a noob...I know the website is a little hard to search on because it brings up every time any of the words come up but if you want to be taken seriously then do it...and don't be afraid to show what you are doing without asking questions too! start a thread and show some progress...if the only thing you ever post is questions it seems like you never do anything yourself :012:

synopses - don't waste your money with any of that unless you are going to really do some work to the car later down the road. dig through the hundreds of threads people you ask a question.

[kylecanthurdle]

so in turn, do all of those things once you make a 9.5:1 compression DOHC ported and polished head and custom intake manifold with an 80mm throttle body that runs on 110 octane and you got yourself a performance 4g64 NA.

[demond0d5]

Think 9.5 would cut it? Buddy had a civic running like 11:1 or some crazy shit like that and was still only running 14's or something...granted he bent a valve, threw a rod and busted a hole in his block but still :p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Silvertune]

There is no such thing as all motor four cylinder performance in cars. There is not enough displacement possible in a four cylinder rotating arrangement that would fit in a car to make it stand up to any other form of competitive setup. Sure, some Hondas run 14's, 14 seconds sucks. And here you're talking about like 95whp; a 20 second car. The fact that anyone would think the stock crap in there has any potential on it's own is fucked.

Cut the drivetain loss in half and triple the crank output with a turbo. It has worked for hundreds of others.

[Bllrmbltz]

Tbh. Don't listen to the negativity just do what you wanna do to your car and you'll see some kinda gain if not a gain in a self pat on the back that you got outside and tried.

As for the intake manifold until you completely take it off you won't notice how completely thin all that metal really is. Best bet is to make friends with a welder and toss back and forth ideas. My throttle body flange neck was swapped out with a 2.5 inch peice of piping and extended about 3/4th of an inch. So yea that is "ported" for what we can do and after swapping the Tb to a 60mm I can tell you all that made a difference.

Fuel supply. We have stock one of the largest injector sizes n/a so I wouldn't really be worried about that. Fpr helps with the acceleration curve so it's actually not all that bad. As for your fuel pump the size you have now is adequate but you'll get better performance with a new oem pump and filter sock than the one that's been sitting in your tank for idk how long.

Exhaust upgrades are a great bolt on. High flow cats, headers, up the size of piping, and high flow muffler is what you wanna do before all those other modifications.

Light weight pullys. You'll never know how great they are at weight reduction until you have one of each in your hands lol. But beware there has been reports of them cutting your pull on the altinator not being able to charge your battery as well as it should.

It's funny how every post is about the same even if you search like they say. It's always filled with "search for it youself noob". You won't have a full on track car staying na auto but it'll give you some fun while you DD instead of your car always on jack stands trying to figure out what went wrong when you boost.

[oakrdrs187]

^^^Theres the 10hp I was talking about.

After all that, a honda with a 1.6L single cam will still take you.

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

[Bllrmbltz]

You'd ^

Be surprised. I make v6 cars ask me what I have under the hood saying "I didn't expect that car to move like that".

The best thing to do if you want better performance is to take your car back to stage 0. Fix every issue you have and replace worm out parts. Then those bolt ons will surly help you out.

Ask gallant on here about my car and don't listen to the negativity. Everyone has to start somewhere and for you I suggest rebuilding/replacing that motor first.

[xd_01]

^Im curious, what did your car dyno at after all these mods and how much does your car weigh?

[Blue8g]

There is no such thing as all motor four cylinder performance in cars. There is not enough displacement possible in a four cylinder rotating arrangement that would fit in a car to make it stand up to any other form of competitive setup. Sure, some Hondas run 14's, 14 seconds sucks. And here you're talking about like 95whp; a 20 second car. The fact that anyone would think the stock crap in there has any potential on it's own is fucked.

Cut the drivetain loss in half and triple the crank output with a turbo. It has worked for hundreds of others.

What. MANY Hondas run 10's/11's in NA form.

[demond0d5]

It's funny how every post is about the same even if you search like they say. It's always filled with "search for it youself noob".

We gave him the answer to the questions he asked...and I even gave a quick breakdown of what each would do. Everything he asked about was explained and discussed between the noob remarks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kylecanthurdle]

all OP asked was if doing any of the above will make his car faster. and we gave our opinions. thats what a discussion forum is right? unfortunately its kind of annoying when someone makes an account, doesnt read the rules of said forum theyre agreeing to, and then posts 3 separate threads asking pretty much the same thing. shoot me for doing a little flaming, but if i pulled that crap when i first started(when this forum had 5 times the active members) id be flamed ten times worse.

[Silvertune]

Tbh. Don't listen to the negativity just do what you wanna do to your car and you'll see some kinda gain if not a gain in a self pat on the back that you got outside and tried.

As for the intake manifold until you completely take it off you won't notice how completely thin all that metal really is. Best bet is to make friends with a welder and toss back and forth ideas. My throttle body flange neck was swapped out with a 2.5 inch peice of piping and extended about 3/4th of an inch. So yea that is "ported" for what we can do and after swapping the Tb to a 60mm I can tell you all that made a difference.

Fuel supply. We have stock one of the largest injector sizes n/a so I wouldn't really be worried about that. Fpr helps with the acceleration curve so it's actually not all that bad. As for your fuel pump the size you have now is adequate but you'll get better performance with a new oem pump and filter sock than the one that's been sitting in your tank for idk how long.

Exhaust upgrades are a great bolt on. High flow cats, headers, up the size of piping, and high flow muffler is what you wanna do before all those other modifications.

Light weight pullys. You'll never know how great they are at weight reduction until you have one of each in your hands lol. But beware there has been reports of them cutting your pull on the altinator not being able to charge your battery as well as it should.

It's funny how every post is about the same even if you search like they say. It's always filled with "search for it youself noob". You won't have a full on track car staying na auto but it'll give you some fun while you DD instead of your car always on jack stands trying to figure out what went wrong when you boost.

Throttle body: How can you gain performance increasing throttle body size when your current motor doesn't even come close to maxing what's there? That's like putting a 4" exhaust on one of these, it doesn't net you a thing. Go run a volumetric flow rate calculation and check the velocity at the throttle body. Get your reynolds number and tell me if it's laminar or turbulant. I'll give you a hint, it's laminar. Meaning you aren't even in the realm of increasing performance with throttle body size and there is math to back it up.

FPR: sets your fuel pressure. Tell me what relevance does changing this abstractly have to increasing acceleration? It's only job is to maintain a static pressure gradient across the needle valve in your injectors. It either keeps that gradient or it doesn't. "Upgrading" to an aftermarket unit doesn't change a damn thing, it does the same thing: it keeps the gradient. IE: No performance game what so ever. Likewise the fuel pump: Capable of handling some 280whp before running out of volume. Given that the FPR sets pressure explain to me how a new pump that flows the same is going to increase performance?

Fueling is controlled electronically, the mechanical bits are simply there to keep a consistent environment for the electronic part so it reliably runs the same way. The ONLY way to net power by changing fueling is through a tune.

Fuck exhaust mods. There is nothing more retarded than a loud 20 second car. The factory exhaust is plenty big enough, I wouldn't stop anyone from deleting the cat but fooling yourself into thinking it's a worth while upgrade isn't even funny.

Sure you do. A few ounces versus a a few more ounces. Lightweight pulleys do nothing considering a serpentine setup with the AC off and low alternator load (IE, whenever you want to get on it) is less than 5 horsepower. The loss comes larger from bending the belt. I implore you, go back to high school and take an intro to physics course. There's this little concept called moment of rotational inertia. Do some calculations with the weights of each pulley and see how much you aren't gaining by putting billet pulleys in there.

You're a fool. Fooling yourself and others into thinking that there is some merit in an all motor 4g64. The irony is people on this very forum have built them for NA potential and this is the only forum on the internet with those builds and documentation. What's hilarious about it is none of them, even with DOHC heads, high compression manual transmissions and more broke 160whp. Not a single one. 160whp is modest output on a bike. In a family four door you might as well leave it alone.

[2002BlackDragon]

I have to agree with Kyle on this. I miss when this site was really active. Use to be a huge list of new posts. Now there's only a few here or there.

Sent from my Z796C using Tapatalk

[qcustoms]

Are you serious about T
This upgrade list in a 2.4? And we talking about the notorious 2.4 GDI motor?


Sent from my iPad

[kylecanthurdle]

there was no 2.4l GDI motor in the 8g.

[oakrdrs187]

Q is JDM as F*ck.

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk

[mysticj]

Simply no, no in the 3G Eclipse/8G Galant realm anyway.

There is so much information on this board about it...Why haven't this thread been close already?

[demond0d5]

Was wondering the same thing...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[birchette42]

I got my car lower 2 inch and they told me I needed new camber bolts why and which band is good

[Bllrmbltz]

Have you personally looked at everything to decide for youself? Possibly needed new ones before you dropped your car. It just added extra stress

[birchette42]

Well my tires r wearing and the said I need them.want should i get

[oakrdrs187]

Well my tires "are" wearing and "they" said I need them. (Space!) "What" should "I" get (FUCKING QUESTION MARK!!)

Fixed! For those who have the ability to read/write past 3rd grade.


Camber bolts will help the front and camber kits will do the rears. You can go on ebay and "SEARCH" (Hint Hint) for "Galant/Eclipse/Stratus or Sebring Ingalls camber kits"

Also some parts stores are also starting to carry alignment hardware and accessories.