P0443 code?

[rezyy0]

So apparently it's "EVAP System Purge Control Valve Circuit". And it's sending either the wrong signal or it just doesn't work at all. But I can't even find where this thing is on the engine. I'll put up a pic of my engine bay in a bit because I'm stuck and can't find it at all.
*Added pics*
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/24/74e4d19be5393b11dd314f0e94b63470.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/24/67ee66b1e7cc06d50ea597abcad170cb.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/24/d0f735a7e5c7b07c45c3ef03051d69dd.jpg

[Black8GV6]

Here is the diagram for the OEM IM:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/6976506530_06122fc4da_b.jpg

[rezyy0]

Here is the diagram for the OEM IM:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/6976506530_06122fc4da_b.jpg
Does it matter that I have the outlander TB? It's not the oem one anymore.

[Black8GV6]

see on the right, it says EVAPorative Emission PURGE Solenoid, I'm assuming to replace that.

[rezyy0]

see on the right, it says EVAPorative Emission PURGE Solenoid, I'm assuming to replace that.
I'll try to find one. Thanks for the diagram dude

[Black8GV6]

No prob, that's why we're all here. I've replaced the EVAP Purge on my eclipse, it's right under the throttle body IIRC

[oakrdrs187]

On the outlander manifold its moved by the oil dipstick on a triangular bracket.


You can see it on the OP pics, the first image shows the connectors of the EGR solenoid (orange) and the EVAP solenoid (dark green connector) by the throttle cable on the image, and the second image you see the triangular bracket I mentioned with both of them on it.

Now, cuircuit usually points to a problem in the wiring, since these we're relocated for the outlander manifold the wires would have been extended, look for a break in the wires or loose connection.

[rezyy0]

I unplugged and tested both with a voltage meter and both came up 12 volts. Should I replace the whole part then?

[OMEGA PHX]

As Oak said I'd recheck the connections of the extended wires, maybe a solderis broken causing a intermittent connection or it was not insulated well.

[rezyy0]

As Oak said I'd recheck the connections of the extended wires, maybe a solderis broken causing a intermittent connection or it was not insulated well.
Well, I thought more about it and realized I had the code even before the TB swap, so I'm just gonna spend $30 on a replacement and see what happens. And like I said before, all of the wires tested fine for voltage with a meter, so I'm 99% sure it's the evap purge solenoid valve itself.

[oakrdrs187]

Replacing the TB will do nothing.

[rezyy0]

Replacing the TB will do nothing.
Sorry I probably should have worded it better. I meant I had the code before I did the swap, so I bought a new evap purge solenoid to replace, not the actual TB lol. If that makes it clearer.

[rezyy0]

So I replaced the evap purge solenoid valve, and now it drives rough :( anyone know what could have happened? By rough I mean like when I get to a stop it almost wants to die, and it sounds like it's sucking in a lot of air, but I didn't mess with hardly any vacuum lines. Got any ideas?

[tamim13]

Did you disconnect the throttle body? If you did, make sure that you aligned the throttle body gasket correctly. If you have flipped it, would cause those symptoms.

[rezyy0]

Nope didn't have to move it at all. I have the Outlander tb so the evap purge solenoid valve is just on a bracket on the left. All I did was unbolt it, disconnected the vacuum lines, reconnected them to the new one, and bolted it back on and now it runs rough. I even tried putting the old one back on and it still runs rough so I have no idea what could have happened.

[OMEGA PHX]

Well if you swapped the Evap purge solenoid, you messed with vacuum lines. Did you disconnect the battery by any chance? If you did that is normal for a couple of hundred miles. Check if you have any new CEL codes.

[rezyy0]

I erased the code before I drove it, after I replaced it. Maybe this is the issue? Should I just drive it a couple more days and see what happens?

[tamim13]

Make sure the vacuum lines are connected properly again. If necessary disconnect and reconnect them. Also like Omega said, remove your negative on your battery for about 30 minutes, and let your car re-learn your idle, and see if that makes it better.

[rezyy0]

Alright well I'm currently leaving the battery disconnected so I'll see what happens in a bit.

[rezyy0]

Okay so I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes, let it idle for 10 and it's still rough. Wierd thing is, it doesn't drop drastically in rpms. It stays around 900 but it still sounds like it's sucking in alot of air, and it sounds almost like a dirtbike sort of. I can take a video if it helps.

[rezyy0]

Make sure the vacuum lines are connected properly again. If necessary disconnect and reconnect them. Also like Omega said, remove your negative on your battery for about 30 minutes, and let your car re-learn your idle, and see if that makes it better.
Well one of the vacuum lines I replaced wasn't on very snug so I went and got a new one, stuck it on, it's tight now, but it's still rough. I've gone through all the line connections and made sure they were on, I tested the electrical connectors of the egr and evap solenoid valve and they both tested good, and it's still running rough. I can drive it fine, it shifts fine, but when I come to a stop it idles rough. I'm out of ideas here.

[Black8GV6]

So I replaced the evap purge solenoid valve, and now it drives rough :( anyone know what could have happened? By rough I mean like when I get to a stop it almost wants to die, and it sounds like it's sucking in a lot of air, but I didn't mess with hardly any vacuum lines. Got any ideas?

I would triple check the vac lines since the purge has 2 vac lines on it

Maybe get some TB cleaner and clean the EGR Valve and EGR tube

[rezyy0]

I would triple check the vac lines since the purge has 2 vac lines on it

Maybe get some TB cleaner and clean the EGR Valve and EGR tube
Well on the pictures above you can see where they are, I had to switch them on the bracket because the lines wouldn't reach, do you think maybe they could be getting pinched? The replacement valve I got points the lines to the right instead of forward.

[rezyy0]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/75406d47287c6393a3257cdc5cf9b2f8.jpg
Anyone know what that wire showing is? I don't know if maybe that's the issue. I think I might have hit it when I was unbolting the bracket. I've covered it with electrical tape for now until hopefully someone can let me know what it is.

[rezyy0]

Well I'm completely lost. I took it around the block to see how it would run and now I have a p0720 code. I don't know what's going on and I'm getting pretty irritated with it. Guess I'll have to get it looked at by someone.

[coconut]

What yr is your G

[coconut]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/75406d47287c6393a3257cdc5cf9b2f8.jpg
Anyone know what that wire showing is? I don't know if maybe that's the issue. I think I might have hit it when I was unbolting the bracket. I've covered it with electrical tape for now until hopefully someone can let me know what it is.

That looks like a coil wire came undone from the connector.

[rezyy0]

What yr is your G
It's a 99.

[rezyy0]

That looks like a coil wire came undone from the connector.
Is there a way to fix it?

[coconut]

Soldier and heat shrink the two wires if theres another end if not get another from a junkyard and splice it back. Soldier and heat shrink.

[rezyy0]

Soldier and heat shrink the two wires if theres another end if not get another from a junkyard and splice it back. Soldier and heat shrink.
It's still connected though, it just feels like it kinda got pulled out a little bit and that's why the wires are visible.

[coconut]

Can you take a picture in a different angle. In that one it lioked disconnected. Tape it up and see if runs better.

[rezyy0]

Can you take a picture in a different angle. In that one it lioked disconnected. Tape it up and see if runs better.

I taped it when it happened and it still ran bad, and that's when I got the p0720 code. But, I think I might have figured out what happened. It looks like the replacement evap purge solenoid I bought was from an eclipse. Think that might be the problem? And should I put the old back on until I get a new oem galant one?

[rezyy0]

Piggybacking off of my old post, I still had idling issues. I took it to my friend and he couldn't really figure it out either. Replaced the tps and iac valve, no luck. Still idles bad and the engine shakes so I don't really know what to do from here. It sounds like it's sucking in alot of air but there's no vacuum leak. If anybody has any sort of suggestion to check it'd be appreciated.

[RedGalant2k1]

Sounds like you need a smoke machine. The problem with vacuum leaks is that they can be difficult to find on occasion. A smoke machine will find it for sure. Before you keep randomly guessing at parts and spending unnecessary money and time. Get it diagnosed properly.

[rezyy0]

Took it to firestone to get it looked at. Waiting for a call. Guy was gonna smoke test to find the leak. Hopefully this fixes it cause I'm gonna be super bummed if it doesn't.

[rezyy0]

Well the guy there told me he didn't fully know what it was, complained about my outlander swap, told me i should try replacing the egr so I guess that's my next step.

[rezyy0]

Sounds like you need a smoke machine. The problem with vacuum leaks is that they can be difficult to find on occasion. A smoke machine will find it for sure. Before you keep randomly guessing at parts and spending unnecessary money and time. Get it diagnosed properly.
Well, the guy at firestone was right. My egr valve is acting up. Had the car running, took off the vacuum line to it, and the car ran fine. So, I'm getting a replacement and hopefully I'll be all good. [emoji16]