$350 4g64 5 speed swap project started

[amaru7]

Okay so here's the story. I've been driving my 8g since 2002 when I was 16. It's a 1999 Galant ES automatic 6g72. I bought it with 41k miles on it and it now has 223k. Whatever happens to this car, I won't let it die. It's a sentimental thing at this point so I'm not giving up on it. So about 2 months ago the engine overheated bad and it quit running. I started driving my other car instead and kinda forgot about the galant and let it sit. Well I sold my other car so now it's time to get the galant going. I knew it overheated and the heads were probably warped due to the fact that it could still run but combustion pressure was coming out of the overflow bottle. So first thing was to pull the heads and see if maybe I got lucky and it was just head gaskets. No luck, .013" warpage on the heads
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/22/6e077c4b786b099cbb375d42774e9168.jpg
I've started redoing the surface of the heads and have one down to .06-.07" warpage, which is actually within the spec of .08". I decided a while ago tho that the 4g64 was a better option. Easier to work on, seemingly less problematic, and more options and potential when it comes to making power. So the idea of a 6g72 to 4g64 swap was born. I also have wanted to do a 5 speed swap, and since this automatic is shuddering and struggling to hold a gear, now is a good time to swap transmissions. So I searched for a 3g eclipse with a 4g64 and 5 speed. Just when I thought I would never find one around here for cheap enough, a 2001 3g pops up on Craigslist.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/22/774e029cf20f3618e87b51c514675876.jpg
Owner told me it doesn't run because the belts are bad. I figured that meant a thrown timing belt, so I was able to talk them down to $350 for the car. I found the shredded timing belt in the back seat after I got it to the shop. The car is trashed. The body is faking off and interior gutted, but I don't need that stuff anyways. I'll scrap the car when I'm done. Since the timing belt went, it's time to pull the head and check the damage
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/22/eaf7b75bf8b9b738d16dee924f829ceb.jpg
I honestly don't think the pistons hit the valves. I'll take the cam out of the head tomorrow and check the combustion chambers for leaks, which will tell me if any valves are bent. I'll also check deck height and see if rods are bent. I can then the crank by hand, so the pistons aren't seized. But the oil pump and balance shaft won't turn. Top left and bottom right gears in the picture are stuck
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/22/e2c6cb64af8e4fc616cf66fcf28f80ed.jpg
Tomorrow I will pull the oil pump cover off and see what I can find. Once this engine is running in the 3g, then I'll swap it to the 8g. That way I know it was good before the swap and if it doesn't run afterwards, it's something I did wrong. I'll post pictures of everything as I go. I figure I'll do a full prothane kit for bushings and mounts while everything is out. Probably a clutch too. I think I'll leave everything else stock for now until it's good. Unless the valves are bent in the head, then I might as well do a DOHC swap right now.

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[rijery34]

Good stuff, I also own an 8g, and I want to do a 5 speed swap on mine soon also, can you please post the info and step plus pictures on here, in case yours take place before mine thank you, I'd really appreciate it

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[amaru7]

Had to work later today than expected. Only had an hour to work on the cars tonight, but I got the engine out

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I'll put the engine on a stand in the morning and then after work pull the oil pan and front cover.

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[amaru7]

Engine on the stand and ready for further disassembly

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/24/547044d53d041193eeb63b13d76f43b4.jpg

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[amaru7]

Got down to the source failure that locked everything up. Both balance shafts seized in the block and stopped the oil pump from spinning which caused the timing belt to snap.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/24/715664192f9832f74ea422f459e0e2a1.jpg

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I'm thinking instead of replacing both shafts and pressing new bushings into the block, I should just go with a balance shaft delete kit. Easier, cheaper, and free up a couple hp.

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[amaru7]

Well scratch that. I have bigger problems. I figured the balance shafts probably seized due to lack of oil, so I should check the main bearings.....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/24/8d54552a8876014d8c048a3a036f2c78.jpg

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Definitely oil starvation. By the looks of the blown up strut tower, bent sway bar link, and the severely dented oil pan, I'm guessing the previous owner jumped this thing hard and dented/cracked the oil pan. Then drove it until the engine died. Main bearings: trash. Crankshaft journals: scored and scraped. Connecting rod bearings: trash. Pistons: skirts scored/scraped. Cylinder bores: scraped.

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[amaru7]

Bought another engine. It'll be here Monday.

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[NickGen8]

Can you do the 5 speed swap while you wait? :)

[amaru7]

Can you do the 5 speed swap while you wait? :)
Lol it'll happen soon enough. Engine will be here Monday. Clutch should be here Tuesday I think. So the new engine should be in the eclipse and running by Thursday night. That means the entire swap to the 8g starts Friday and hopefully done Saturday.

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[amaru7]

Some parts arrived today

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/9108f41bbd7dddd44da707fa5313f419.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/852087e23d96aa0103bd5bf2089d2add.jpg

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[amaru7]

New engine showed up today. Had just enough time to strip the junk off of it and mount it in the stand.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/30/11b73e589e8c657bfb391247a755c638.jpg

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Maybe it's just me, but the pilot bushing on the old crank doesn't look right. Is this really all there is??

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/30/bdd4bf7f74ba237575566389ab8bb900.jpg

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[amaru7]

New arrivals

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/30/99e8cd2f43e2944fecdfbca3d80af3e2.jpg

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[amaru7]

Frustrating day with the car. Partly because I only get an hour a day to work on it. The original plan was to put the new engine in the eclipse so I can verify everything works as it should BEFORE the swap. Well, I found out that I can't get the new engine into the car without pulling the transmission. It kind of slipped my mind that the old engine was pulled after I already had the head off, so I had way more room. Now with a complete engine, it's not even close.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/01/acea98edf244d030990de1b83c81b345.jpg

So the swap is happening sooner than I thought. The eclipse will be gutted tomorrow.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/01/2332754e4618e4731d51e5557baf0b33.jpg


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[rijery34]

Hang in there man, be patient, you'll get it, usually when I get frustrated on my car I leave it, then come back in a bit to cool off

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[amaru7]

More parts arrived

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/01/f78c27c89749e26d6486037fd54934c1.jpg

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[amaru7]

Hang in there man, be patient, you'll get it, usually when I get frustrated on my car I leave it, then come back in a bit to cool off

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Thanks. I just wish I had a solid like 5 hours to dedicate to it in one day. I'll be on it all Saturday basically. I was hoping to have the engine in and close to running tonight. Instead, all I accomplished was installing the flywheel with the new clutch and pressure plate, a new throwout bearing, and a new rear main.

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[rijery34]

That's a lot more I could've done in an hour man

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[rijery34]

Quick questions, when I do my swap, I have an 2003 galant when I swap the tranny for s 5 speed I will get an engine light, how do I get that out? And what about my starter it will not work with the new tranny right!?

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[oakrdrs187]

Pull the axles and drop the tranny no big deal. Mate the two and lower the car onto the engine/trans assembly.

[rijery34]

I meant how do I get rid of the engine light

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[amaru7]

Quick questions, when I do my swap, I have an 2003 galant when I swap the tranny for s 5 speed I will get an engine light, how do I get that out? And what about my starter it will not work with the new tranny right!?

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I'm not sure about that. There are threads here that cover that. I won't have that problem because I'm taking the ecu from the manual eclipse

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[amaru7]

Morning progress:

7am
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/2c2b58da96c2301678b2e010abb876a4.jpg

8am
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/744f98e227fe7da8e5aeef98eb5e927b.jpg

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[amaru7]

Pull the axles and drop the tranny no big deal. Mate the two and lower the car onto the engine/trans assembly.
Oh I know how to do it, I just don't want to do it twice. So instead of putting the new engine in the eclipse first to verify it's okay, I'm just swapping it into the galant.

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[oakrdrs187]

Well yea. Do it and the iron out the kinks later.

[amaru7]

Well yea. Do it and the iron out the kinks later.
Yeah I'll have to do it that way. It would've been easier for diagnostics to put the new engine in the eclipse, but oh well. I should have it all out tonight. I'll post updates

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[Triller831]

Just want to say I love that pic of prybar through windshield. Lurking on this swap. Keep going, you are doing well.

[amaru7]

Just want to say I love that pic of prybar through windshield. Lurking on this swap. Keep going, you are doing well.
Lol thanks. Sometimes it just feels good to smash something haha

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[amaru7]

I accomplished what I intended to do today, which was to gut the eclipse and get everything I need out of it

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/4bd0ca1497aee2768e167309216a227d.jpg

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[oakrdrs187]

Doin good work. Where you located?

[amaru7]

Doin good work. Where you located?
Vegas

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[oakrdrs187]

Nice. Not too far from me.


If you were closer I'd go spend a Saturday with you bro. Give you a hand. For kicks ya know?

[amaru7]

Nice. Not too far from me.


If you were closer I'd go spend a Saturday with you bro. Give you a hand. For kicks ya know?
Yeah man I appreciate it

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[amaru7]

Just some more pictures

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/03/412190c2a2fe2d9a04eed934a42e526c.jpg

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[amaru7]

Got to a good midway point today. I believe I have everything I need from the donor car. Tomorrow the galant begins its teardown.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/03/5542cabc219acf8d6fcc7447b9d39540.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/03/e92c63d8d174f3c19c9a4cecdc5e79ec.jpg

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[amaru7]

New tires arrived today

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/04/58e497d973c7acd4153385d5124d0aba.jpg

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[amaru7]

Progress tonight with some signs of hope:
Did anyone know the spot for the clutch pedal is already there? I didn't.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/04/0604cb3d1c699c0d0fe34fce4f3490b6.jpg

Started a small fire

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The hydraulic engine table was being used, along with all the big tables that I could support the engine with. So I had to lift the car about a foot and hold the engine up with the engine hoist, unbolt everything, lower the assembly to the floor, and then lift the body up and off of it. Was only a little pain, sounds worse than it was

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[amaru7]

Today's progress so far....

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[amaru7]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/05/583c73dfbb362757d4d88e5daad0c30d.jpg

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[amaru7]

Progress came to a screeching halt. I have a lot of wiring to figure out

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[Galantman03]

Change out the entire harness.


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[amaru7]

Change out the entire harness.


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I'm going to have to. I had planned on swapping the engine harness, but then I realized the body harness doesn't have plugs for the clutch pedal sensors. So I went to swap that harness (which includes the front fuse box) and found that the abs wiring is supposed to go thru that one but the eclipse doesn't have abs. So I went to add the abs relay and harness to that harness only to find that the connection from that harness to the rest of the body harness behind the dash has different pin locations. So I guess I need to swap that final section of body harness behind the dash and hope the eclipse harness will reach all the 8g components in the car. Mainly my concern is if it will plug into the cluster.

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[amaru7]

Found frayed wires that I had to fix

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/05/93686f1ad9bbca4ed2deac3c953449ef.jpg

Galant body harness plugs behind dash

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/05/de5e553d01cf90647b2b780834fe1eae.jpg

Eclipse body harness plugs behind dash

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/05/3a27dcc48e443bab943e735a0fe4f88c.jpg

The extra connection for the galant is abs. I removed the abs harness and got it ready to add to the eclipse wiring

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/05/bfd72a9732c43e941e0f4df8398ed251.jpg



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[oakrdrs187]

If ABS on the Galant, your gonna have to get ABS axles that have the speed sensor ring you can try to R&R the rings from the V6 axles. Your gonna have to use the original V6 knuckle with the hole for the ABS sensors. If im correct the brakes on the 03-05 eclipses are the same as 2000-2003 V6 galants so you can use either or.

[Galantman03]

You don't have to have the entire harness, you can just change the engine portion and then cut and splice for power ect if needed. But many people haven't done what your doing. You'll get lost it will happen. What sucks is the manuals don't really lay out in detail what wire is for what. Or show you random connectors. As long as you haven't cut anything yet you should be good. The only think they you might have to cut is the starter ignition wires off if the main harness. It's been so long I can't remember what I all did and I moved my fuse box to the trunk as well. Just get it all into place label everything and then back track from galant harness to eclipse harness


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[amaru7]

If ABS on the Galant, your gonna have to get ABS axles that have the speed sensor ring you can try to R&R the rings from the V6 axles. Your gonna have to use the original V6 knuckle with the hole for the ABS sensors. If im correct the brakes on the 03-05 eclipses are the same as 2000-2003 V6 galants so you can use either or.
The axles the eclipse came with have giant tears in the boots and were ran dry for a long time, so I'm replacing them. I'm leaving the galant spindles on, so I'll still have the speed sensors. I'm buying axles for a 4g64 8g with abs. They have 43 teeth on the ring just like the 6g72 axles do, so it'll work fine.

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[amaru7]

You don't have to have the entire harness, you can just change the engine portion and then cut and splice for power ect if needed. But many people haven't done what your doing. You'll get lost it will happen. What sucks is the manuals don't really lay out in detail what wire is for what. Or show you random connectors. As long as you haven't cut anything yet you should be good. The only think they you might have to cut is the starter ignition wires off if the main harness. It's been so long I can't remember what I all did and I moved my fuse box to the trunk as well. Just get it all into place label everything and then back track from galant harness to eclipse harness


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What about the "front ecu" that's in the front fuse box? Are there any differences in those from auto to manual? And no, I haven't cut anything yet.

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[amaru7]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/af136f8f0066bc477e4f258c50b29b94.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/b9ab53b4bd7b3bd2740d8e4fe60e495f.jpg

Thats the front ecu I'm talking about. The 2 I have are different part numbers. I feel like I need to use the one from the 3g, but I'm not sure

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[oakrdrs187]

Front ECU?

That's just basically a main relay.

[bryanjordan]

Great stuff bro keep up the spirit

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[amaru7]

Okay so I figure that even if I figure out the wiring, I won't know for sure that it's right until I attempt to start the engine and drive. So I decided to start installing the engine and trans. First the sub frame has to go in tho. The bolt patterns are identical. The 8g 6g72 frame bolts up in the exact same location as a 3g 4g64 frame. So far so good. I kept lifting it up and against the frame, only to get stuck on something. Come to find out, the 3g frame comes up higher than the 8g frame. So I'm left with about a 2 inch gap

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/07/b57d6aeec7d540baba87987943d3e110.jpg

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[amaru7]

The frame is tilting down and forward when I took that picture, nothing is bent. It's kind of hard to see but you can zoom a bit and see the gap I'm talking about

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[M-Rod]

It's because the body on the 4 cylinder cars has an extension welded in place there. You'll see exactly what I'm talking about when you go back to the car that you pulled the 4 cylinder subframe out of.

It isn't a 3g vs 8g difference, but rather an i4 vs v6 difference.

[amaru7]

It's because the body on the 4 cylinder cars has an extension welded in place there. You'll see exactly what I'm talking about when you go back to the car that you pulled the 4 cylinder subframe out of.

It isn't a 3g vs 8g difference, but rather an i4 vs v6 difference.
So if I weld an extension on, the engine won't be sitting too low in the engine compartment? I was thinking it would be easier to make the 4g64 mount into the 6g72 frame, rather than putting in extensions. The front and rear mounts look to be in the exact same spots

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[M-Rod]

All you'll essentially need is something to fill the gap, and you're all set.

[amaru7]

All you'll essentially need is something to fill the gap, and you're all set.
That shouldn't be tough. I'll figure something out then

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[amaru7]

It's because the body on the 4 cylinder cars has an extension welded in place there. You'll see exactly what I'm talking about when you go back to the car that you pulled the 4 cylinder subframe out of.

It isn't a 3g vs 8g difference, but rather an i4 vs v6 difference.
It's definitely a difference in sub frames. The vehicle frames are different

8g:

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/08/af374410ff9bfde6b9781d583ee1b831.jpg

3g

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/08/c312954eb30b9dc985b14dfdbdd5d26d.jpg

I would have to put 6 spacers in, and then I'm pretty sure the engine would be sitting too low to reach the passenger side engine mount and transmission mount

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[M-Rod]

Ahh yes. I had mistaken things last night. The silver frame rail appears to be a v6 car which has the extension on the frame rail, whereas the red frame rail is a 4 cylinder car. To make the 4 cylinder subframe work in the v6 car, that extension would need to come out. The only thing I can't remember is if the stud remains in place after drilling out the spot welds.

[deeznutz]

Studs are trapped in the frame rail..

[amaru7]

Finally some things went right... I pulled the 6g72 and auto from the 8g frame. Mated the manual to the 4g64. Then attempted to install the manual 4g64 setup onto the auto 6g72 subframe... I don't want to get ahead of myself, but it looks like it should fit just fine.....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/08/983440672ab95a3a04c70873ff4b90cb.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/08/1d66b2675a84f9d5c6e098850e5e132c.jpg

I think the reason everyone says it won't fit is because (at least on the 3g) the 4g64 frame has the steering rack boxed in, so the rear engine mount mounts directly over the rack. The 6g72 frame doesn't box in the rack, therefore the mount support must attach farther back and extend forward to reach the engine. But in the end I believe both mounts are sitting in the same spot. I won't know 100% for sure until I put it all in the car, but so far it looks promising.

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[oakrdrs187]

Studs are trapped in the frame rail..

I was waiting for this guy to chime in.... What's up bro!

[amaru7]

8g frame is in. Have to tighten a couple things in the morning and the new timing belt and balance shaft belt will be done.

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I found that whoever did the last timing belt, had the left balance shaft timed wrong. Finish the timing belt and install the engine harness and the engine/trans assembly will be ready to drop in tomorrow.

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[deeznutz]

I was waiting for this guy to chime in.... What's up bro!
Same old stuff brotha!

Amaru the 64 should fit with plenty of space if I was you I'd keep the v6 frame and fabricate a new rear mount it's much easier this way. I did the exact reverse swap as your attempting but I had no choice but to swap frames the v6 needs the extra room that the aluminum sub frame provides. I'm glad to see someone else attempt what I did so many years ago...

[amaru7]

Same old stuff brotha!

Amaru the 64 should fit with plenty of space if I was you I'd keep the v6 frame and fabricate a new rear mount it's much easier this way. I did the exact reverse swap as your attempting but I had no choice but to swap frames the v6 needs the extra room that the aluminum sub frame provides. I'm glad to see someone else attempt what I did so many years ago...
If anything, I think I'll just need to fabricate a new rear mount bracket on the trans. Should be super easy.

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[oakrdrs187]

Same old stuff brotha!

Good to hear it bro.





Amaru the 64 should fit with plenty of space if I was you I'd keep the v6 frame and fabricate a new rear mount it's much easier this way. I did the exact reverse swap as your attempting but I had no choice but to swap frames the v6 needs the extra room that the aluminum sub frame provides. I'm glad to see someone else attempt what I did so many years ago...

And this is why I have been watching this thread. I believe that most are as well, they aren't saying much. They're just kinda lurking the thread.

Amaru good stuff on here. Like I said even though most of the community isn't dropping off their 2 cents, deep down we're all rooting for you!

[amaru7]

Same old stuff brotha!

Amaru the 64 should fit with plenty of space if I was you I'd keep the v6 frame and fabricate a new rear mount it's much easier this way. I did the exact reverse swap as your attempting but I had no choice but to swap frames the v6 needs the extra room that the aluminum sub frame provides. I'm glad to see someone else attempt what I did so many years ago...
When you did yours, you obviously had to change the ecu as well, what did you do about having the car pass emissions? The wrong VIN is now stored in the ecu. Is there a way to program the correct VIN in?

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[xd_01]

Ive been lurking for sure, Im a lil confused though your swapping in a 4cy to a 8g with the existing v6 aluminum subframe?

[oakrdrs187]

When you did yours, you obviously had to change the ecu as well, what did you do about having the car pass emissions? The wrong VIN is now stored in the ecu. Is there a way to program the correct VIN in?

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

I dont think the VIN is in our ECUs. Milage ain't for sure.

[oakrdrs187]

Ive been lurking for sure, Im a lil confused though your swapping in a 4cy to a 8g with the existing v6 aluminum subframe?

That's what he's doing.

[deeznutz]

When you did yours, you obviously had to change the ecu as well, what did you do about having the car pass emissions? The wrong VIN is now stored in the ecu. Is there a way to program the correct VIN in?

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk
Vin is not stored in the ecm, your swapping harness and ecm, emissions is good to go as long as everything is working properly

Vic I haven't been lurking just haven't been on the fourm in a long wile I pop in and see this so I commented lol

[xd_01]

This is real interesting to me. I see a lot of room there for a Evo trans and t-case, modified fwd t-case that is.

[Galantman03]

Steering rack is in the way right were the tcase goes


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[amaru7]

Finished the timing belt. Put 90% of the harness onto the engine. Dropped the engine and trans into the car, connected the rear engine mount. I'll definitely have to modify an engine mount a little, but I'm not thinking too bad. We'll see.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/10/c082884059a51f3bcafb881f76b0aec6.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/10/27f575d7d6c8355cb4189b9c175f4a00.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/10/01509c5fef47fc1da7011abe18ff8fcf.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/10/c52b410a3b8b2c5e760899b9c9a69131.jpg

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[oakrdrs187]

Vin is not stored in the ecm, your swapping harness and ecm, emissions is good to go as long as everything is working properly

Vic I haven't been lurking just haven't been on the fourm in a long wile I pop in and see this so I commented lol

I knew it. Gonna find a loophole for emissions now even quicker.

[amaru7]

Morning progress.... 4g64 is in and bolted up to all 4 engine mounts without modification. Engine harness is routed and ready to finish the connections.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/c3e9efd4f440ee6d9f2ff2f90ccade3a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/8e3813fe543009ac8ed837a11d745c15.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/ef9f4fdaf6669b2fc44b3265cbc34f22.jpg

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[oakrdrs187]

Awesome.


I just wanna pressure wash that bay!

[amaru7]

Awesome.


I just wanna pressure wash that bay!
Lol I agree. I want to get it operational first, then I'll work on improving the looks.

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[deeznutz]

Hold up,,,, so the v6 rear mount fit into the bracket on the rear of the 4cyl trans? Pic please...

[amaru7]

Hold up,,,, so the v6 rear mount fit into the bracket on the rear of the 4cyl trans? Pic please...
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/8f3fb6750238c41e445ece645f4e656a.jpg

You can see all 4 mounted up in that pic

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[amaru7]

Hold up,,,, so the v6 rear mount fit into the bracket on the rear of the 4cyl trans? Pic please...
Closer pic

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/11/d873b4f7f617d113f1db8b5f61c8ec20.jpg

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[oakrdrs187]

This is a real treat. A few things good, no modifications needed and the V6 mounts are sturdier whether oem replacments or prothane mounts.

The only down side to this is the V6 rack turning radius is that of a Semi, where the 4cyl can easily do u-turns in most residential streets from one side to the other.

[amaru7]

This is a real treat. A few things good, no modifications needed and the V6 mounts are sturdier whether oem replacments or prothane mounts.

The only down side to this is the V6 rack turning radius is that of a Semi, where the 4cyl can easily do u-turns in most residential streets from one side to the other.
Well I'm not throwing any old parts out just yet. So maybe I'll see if I can make the 4 cylinder rack work. It should have the same coupling to the column

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[amaru7]

Today's update.... clutch master cylinder installed, clutch pedal installed, brake pedal installed, shifter and cables installed, steering column installed, 99% of wiring finished, starter installed, power steering pump installed, exhaust installed, battery tray installed, 1 bolt left for the alternator, 1 more line to install for power steering, vacuum and coolant lines attached to engine. I'm pretty sure I successfully bypassed the immobilizer. Won't know for sure until it's running, but I cranked it for a second.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/1289d02dd1cc20cfaf9f8961aa088145.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/12add52da7597bc7c9ccde1c026d8056.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/5fc004211916ee1d32d28828cbb41027.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/ed4ae3353b05084c962db190513fe0a6.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/a15acf1aea29647f26073c1d65149dc6.jpg

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[oakrdrs187]

Immobilizer will allow to crank. It'll cut ignition once it turns over.

Take the immobilizer box and key/tumbler from eclipse then it'll work.

Also you should upgrade to the sportier 3G steering wheel while you're at it.

[amaru7]

Immobilizer will allow to crank. It'll cut ignition once it turns over.

Take the immobilizer box and key/tumbler from eclipse then it'll work.

Also you should upgrade to the sportier 3G steering wheel while you're at it.
I'll most likely have everything installed Monday. I can check the immobilizer then. The 3g steering wheel has a big stupid sticker on it. Idk if it's covering a defect or if I can get it all off. I'll check

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[amaru7]

Immobilizer will allow to crank. It'll cut ignition once it turns over.

Take the immobilizer box and key/tumbler from eclipse then it'll work.

Also you should upgrade to the sportier 3G steering wheel while you're at it.
Is there an immobilizer bypass I can buy? Wouldn't a remote start system include something like that?

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[oakrdrs187]

By pass is to fool the ecu into thinking the correct key is in the tumbler. But ut requires the the use of matching ecu, in this case the V6.

You're only other option would be to disable the immobilizer with a computer and programming cable, I personally still have not played around with that.

Since you swapped harnesses and ECU. Simply plug in the immobilizer box located under the radio and switch out the ignition switches and it'll work.

[Galantman03]

It's not the tumbler, it's the lighted ring that detects the rf in the key fyi


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[oakrdrs187]

^^^ Correct. The ring detects the RF signal coming from the key and transmits it to the box under the radio and to the ECU.

But the eclipse key won't turn the Galant switch therfore the switch part has to be swapped too.

[bryanjordan]

good work but you could at least cleaned and painted the chassis near the engine

[amaru7]

good work but you could at least cleaned and painted the chassis near the engine
My focus is on getting it on the road first. Then I can start making it look better. No point in having a nice looking car that doesn't run

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[amaru7]

It's getting there. Had to use the 4g64 power steering line. The 6g72 is too short.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/ebabbc29f7ed0543fc53b87c1814943f.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/aa078d0a6cc4f152c2ff5f2a42198236.jpg

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[oakrdrs187]

Yea, that pump is in back on the V6 and up front on the i4.

Keep up the updates bro. Real good stuff happening here.

Have about what fluid to run in the 5 speed?

[amaru7]

Yea, that pump is in back on the V6 and up front on the i4.

Keep up the updates bro. Real good stuff happening here.

Have about what fluid to run in the 5 speed?
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/e26a1e5d33cef75a284de36facee4667.jpg

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[amaru7]

Idk why it put it sideways

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/a864baaf86a6cf9f8998037261a772b8.jpg

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[oakrdrs187]

I believe that covers GL5 applications which you do not want.

I ordered RedLine MT90. I switched from Pennzoil SynchroMesh and I love it I wouldn't run anything else.

[amaru7]

I believe that covers GL5 applications which you do not want.

I ordered RedLine MT90. I switched from Pennzoil SynchroMesh and I love it I wouldn't run anything else.
I looked at SynchroMesh and it didn't say GL4. This says API GL-4 on it. Still no good?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/e508ea69b5774a3b8469a04d65978d57.jpg

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[oakrdrs187]

It's when it states GL5 that I don't feel comfortable running it. Something about our brass synchros.

SynchroMesh for me was very notchy shifting in.

[amaru7]

It's so close to running. New axles are in. Spindles, brakes, and belts are all in. I need to wire in the immobilizer and fill fluids. Hopefully it's on the road tomorrow

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[amaru7]

Some pics from today....

New axle seals

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/1afc5e00c9ccc1e4e36246af40a04ff9.jpg

Normal grill

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/ab410966488d1dfa7fc27a656ffada67.jpg

Painted grill

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/aa32cd83fc653c033ca1e6d69652f60d.jpg

A few more things on the engine. Clutch is bled now too

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/8e27338c384ce593c6e5ce8df6e4e838.jpg

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[bryanjordan]

My focus is on getting it on the road first. Then I can start making it look better. No point in having a nice looking car that doesn't run

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You right

[amaru7]

New front mount

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/15/4b85dba87aae87ff3fb03ab209604081.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/15/bd5bf8ffc507c34f6672586169080737.jpg

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[kylecanthurdle]

well this is something ive missed for a little while. good to see someone actually documenting this type of swap. i know a bunch of people have tried and given up one way or ther other. its def coming along very well, cant wait to see a vid of the tach revving!

[amaru7]

https://youtu.be/MdlymxGfkV0

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[amaru7]

And there we go! Some minor stuff to button up, but I'm pleased

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[amaru7]

Some other pics from today....

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/15/0426adc0e2e5269dc93f46fcd4df5f9b.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/15/25d813c4286fa34fbf1ed2c7c314cdc7.jpg

The oil pan was dented near where the oil pickup is. So I decided to pull the pan and straighten it to make sure the oil pump isn't starved.

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[oakrdrs187]

https://youtu.be/MdlymxGfkV0

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Good fucking work!! And Great fucking job!! You outdid yourself bro!

Reputation points given.

[amaru7]

Topped off fluids today. Bled the cooling and power steering. Secured the wiring harnesses. Installed the wheel well liners. Relocated the battery to the trunk. Replaced 4 tires. Wired my headlights back up. Installed the hood. Drove it a good distance tonight and developed a steady oil leak. Not sure where from. That may have to wait until Saturday.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/16/5e6696640b29126d33b0c4cb4c3b75b1.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/16/f0f1810a908cc8b6ee9d62529ef032cd.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/16/306ea710a10cdda50ff104d384af2e8b.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/16/745ee882e7a41ccf13a377927af8c27b.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/16/2f511d1dd59a8c2b96813d3191c35336.jpg


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[amaru7]

The service engine light is because I'm missing a knock sensor. The one from the old engine had a wire ripped out, and the new engine was missing one

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[bryanjordan]

Good work he's coming back Alive

[oakrdrs187]

Knock sensor? On a 4cyl?

[Galantman03]

Eclipse comes with them I think


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[amaru7]

Knock sensor? On a 4cyl?
Yeah it has 2 on the back of the block (firewall side)

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[amaru7]

Drove it 30 miles and it sprung a rapid oil leak. It's home now. I topped off the oil and added UV leak dye. I found the area it's coming from, but not exactly what's leaking

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/17/e87b1e422e797c96959b96355cd15d0d.jpg

Hard to see, but between the alternator and the block, you can see the oil glowing under the black light.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/17/d9555db35416e06caa5c094d769fa050.jpg

It's coming out of the timing belt cover, above the oil filter housing

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[rijery34]

Check the gasket behind the camshaft gear

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[amaru7]

Check the gasket behind the camshaft gear

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I had the upper timing belt cover off and it was dry. It's like near the rear balance shaft seal. Either that or front crank seal I think. I need to get it back to the shop and take the entire cover off

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[amaru7]

The car is now back at the shop. Closer diag of the oil leak begins in about 30 minutes. I went ahead and got the balance shaft seal, front crank seal, and oil pump gear seal. I'm guessing it's one of those

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[oakrdrs187]

The car is now back at the shop. Closer diag of the oil leak begins in about 30 minutes. I went ahead and got the balance shaft seal, front crank seal, and oil pump gear seal. I'm guessing it's one of those

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Hopefully it is and it isn't coming from the oil pump gasket. I doubt anyone will have it in stock.

[amaru7]

I think I fixed it. I decided to play it safe and leave it at the shop tonight. I'll qc it more tomorrow. It was leaking from behind the hydraulic belt tensioner. I also swapped the knock sensor I needed from the 6g72.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/18/043fe82f60d0d88ed5e7424f99eae64d.jpg

Knock sensors on the back of the block

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/18/206c5b6e6fd13f8aa1f7ce3f8ad24a79.jpg

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[Galantman03]

Left one is oil pressure sensor right one is knock sensor


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[amaru7]

Left one is oil pressure sensor right one is knock sensor


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Ah okay. Makes sense

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[amaru7]

Making progress today. Oil leak still looks fixed. There was a misfire under medium to heavy load, spark plugs and wires have fixed that. The exhaust is swapping right now between the 8g and 3g. The complete undercarriage is getting degreased while I eat lunch

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151219/5d42bfd84aef0089749685620510b561.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151219/4d27815e611bf1069609b2d09cd54677.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151219/ce390b3a058c15e888b94b320f92780a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151219/e735e04e7408e4aeaf5f4c07d931c998.jpg

I don't want a bunch of residual oil dripping onto the "new" exhaust

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[kylecanthurdle]

does your shop supply the tool boxes for you guys?

[amaru7]

does your shop supply the tool boxes for you guys?
Yeah but we don't get to keep them when we leave

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[amaru7]

Updates.... 3g exhaust doesn't fit the 8g. The mounting brackets are in different spots and the 3g exhaust isn't long enough. I removed a ton of oil from the undercarriage but there still a good amount to go. Drove it home with no issues. No noises. No check engine lights. Shifts smooth. I just need to find an exhaust. Suggestions? Headers? Just cat back? Which brand?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151220/e801612b2410ca4021c8003aca423554.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151220/b3d6bf3bb8905533e4c665d94c7e6981.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151220/5349e3650eb36598f69506788121dd07.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151220/bdb344e8e5f519c7473ee73f21f696cd.jpg

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[kylecanthurdle]

lucky you, i am already $8k deep just in tool storage.

can i make a suggestion? if you have running water(which im assuming you do) and a way to hose the undercarriage down, get a gallon or two(or 5) of purple power degreaser or maybe even simple green and fill up a spray bottle and go to town with it and spray on the undercarriage. let it sit for a minute or two and hose it down and repeat it a couple of times. luckily i have a nice drain right behind my bay and a water nozzle right next to my box and i have to do the same thing of KIA v6 engines that leak from the oil pressure sensor. its crazy how well it soaks up the oil and when it dries it leaves no residue and it cleans any kind of dirt from the undercarriage.

[amaru7]

lucky you, i am already $8k deep just in tool storage.

can i make a suggestion? if you have running water(which im assuming you do) and a way to hose the undercarriage down, get a gallon or two(or 5) of purple power degreaser or maybe even simple green and fill up a spray bottle and go to town with it and spray on the undercarriage. let it sit for a minute or two and hose it down and repeat it a couple of times. luckily i have a nice drain right behind my bay and a water nozzle right next to my box and i have to do the same thing of KIA v6 engines that leak from the oil pressure sensor. its crazy how well it soaks up the oil and when it dries it leaves no residue and it cleans any kind of dirt from the undercarriage.
Unfortunately we don't keep the boxes when we leave. So I'll have to eventually buy one. My tool cart is mine tho. That's a good idea. I think I'll take the degreaser concentrate we use on the floors and spray it like you said. I used 2 cans of engine degreaser and like 12 cams of brake clean so far.

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[kylecanthurdle]

Yeah man, I used the floor cleaner we used at my last job to clean as well until I left and all I have at my shop is that purple power. Brake clean and engine degreaser works but not well enough

[oakrdrs187]

http://m.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759

I buy this by the 5 gallon size. Runs around 40. Blows purple power away IMO.

Best shit I've ever used. Be Careful with it though.

[amaru7]

I have this whole week away from the shop. The project hasn't stopped. I ordered a catback exhaust, lowering springs, and new shocks. The exhaust should be on Saturday or Monday. I'm looking into a gauge pod, s7 gauges, stripping the clear coat, and plasti dipping it.

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[amaru7]

Finally an update. New exhaust is on. Not loud at all while cruising. Not obnoxious while accelerating. I'm happy with it

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151226/55d9162c78d76cacd18fde7d305a6486.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151226/205c0c433f565996b980bb9fb81f0684.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151226/792f22cf1b4850b3bea716a9addbf570.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151226/485b48721248d1c48333727d81c100fa.jpg

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[kylecanthurdle]

whats the brand?

[amaru7]

whats the brand?
Ebay

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[johnygezony]

Ebay

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The Best Brand

[amaru7]

The way I see it, it was inexpensive. Worst case scenario is it sounds like crap and I have to get a new muffler. But I still got the other exhaust pipes I needed for cheap

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[amaru7]

Front shocks and springs are on. S-techs with GR-2's. The front is sky high when you take out a 6g72 and install a 4g64 with a 5 speed. The stock springs are just way too strong for such a weight reduction

Ride height after the swap

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151230/fe7168d69c0dfe5a05eb0a944086c836.jpg

Ride height now

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151230/914490cd77d6f99e0f4f95bc0f2d7794.jpg

Spring difference

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151230/cf793b0fa3ef77b354c25c0faf410e8d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151230/dbd29fedf63c0d20a93fa975039c09ef.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151230/dad9e8ebd4421104acdfd1db6d777924.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151230/38d3099ee0e6baee345a4319f98002d7.jpg

Since it was already in the air, I did a bit more degreasing underneath

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[oakrdrs187]

Hope you went with the 4cyl springs.

[amaru7]

Hope you went with the 4cyl springs.
Yeah I got the 4 cylinder ones

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[amaru7]

Installed the rears

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160101/6bc65357730a0bab5dc6d64d2d6abfaa.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160101/511d6c962dc1e612d3a5078b0ed2fb13.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160101/c3a1d9a5f7b0680eeed5170809783908.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160101/26469564d9d52c9c251f76db2392493a.jpg

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[amaru7]

Left and right engine mounts installed today

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160105/0383b8bebbc60ec145ede2d985a810db.jpg

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[amaru7]

Timing belt covers went back on today, had to replace the passenger side xenon setup, removed the old V6 badging and the rear ones as well, did more cleanup of the underside. New heater core and evap showed up and will be going in soon so I can start putting the interior back together. I want to install some gauges but I don't want it tacky. Either molded to the A-pillar like everyone else or molded to the center of the dash on top. Slowly but surely it's coming together. I'll post more pics soon

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[amaru7]

Relocated the downstream O2 sensor

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/f703f0c8317154758b5d066b94298cd5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160109/38614322bb626dafa733234e0682874c.jpg

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[rijery34]

would a rear mitsubishi lancer strut fit a galant, i found some kyb and they are pretty cheap, would they fit my 8g

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[oakrdrs187]

would a rear mitsubishi lancer strut fit a galant, i found some kyb and they are pretty cheap, would they fit my 8g

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Wrong place for this question.

And no. Only 3rd generation eclipse suspension parts will work.

[rijery34]

Sorry, and thanks!

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[dGALANTc]

Nice work bro!
Im wondering What if any modifications did you do to the engine harness to install it. I'm swapped but need the check engine light gone it is annoying. Sounds like you used both engine and body harness, but was it necessary? Thanks

[clegg4g64]

can you list all of the parts required for the tranny swap? I have a 2003 and I wanna put a five speed in it soon. Any tips and tricks too?

[spdracr]

can you list all of the parts required for the tranny swap? I have a 2003 and I wanna put a five speed in it soon. Any tips and tricks too?
There is a full tutorial on how to do it here.

[clegg4g64]

yeah i read all of it. it never tells me what kind of clutch assembly he uses or what flywheel they used. i assume it is all 3g parts but ive read a bunch that you have to interchange 2g and 3g parts to do it correctly.

[spdracr]

No u don't have to interchange anything to do it correctly. Use all 3g parts. That's it.

[clegg4g64]

No u don't have to interchange anything to do it correctly. Use all 3g parts. That's it.

Thanks man. That helps a lot

[amaru7]

Nice work bro!
Im wondering What if any modifications did you do to the engine harness to install it. I'm swapped but need the check engine light gone it is annoying. Sounds like you used both engine and body harness, but was it necessary? Thanks
I only used the 3g engine harness. Instead of swapping the body harnesses, I just added to my existing ones. Like wiring in the clutch pedal sensors. I had to extend the engine harness wiring for the downstream O2 sensor. What code comes up for your check engine light?

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[amaru7]

I haven't updated this in what feels like forever. I have driven it just over 6k miles now without issue. 5 days ago I finally put the interior back in. It's getting hot in Vegas and I need AC lol. The only issue I have is the tachometer still doesn't work. To be honest though, I haven't really looked into the issue too much. The 3g and 8g ecus use the same wire and pins for the tach signal, so I'm thinking possibly my cluster has failed internally. My dash cracked badly while handling it, so I'm going to get a dash cover, and I need to fabricate a shifter boot. The 3g boot is smaller than the 8g auto shifter hole.

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[coconut]

There is a wire that needs to be connected at the ecu i believe for yor tach and speedo to work

[amaru7]

There is a wire that needs to be connected at the ecu i believe for yor tach and speedo to work
I'll look into it again. The speedo works, just not the tach.

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[amaru7]

I've still been slowly buttoning things up. Haven't had much time for it since we just had our first baby. I installed ac and had to Re wire it so the system would work. The 4 cylinder eclipse ecu didn't like the signals it was receiving (or wasn't getting signals it needed) and would only allow the compressor to run for about 5 seconds at a time. I've since wired the system to essentially a manually controlled system, but it works amazingly. Installed a shifter boot from a Mustang. I need to install some speakers and wire the radio back in and I should be done.

https://vimeo.com/180768083

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/492471ce77ba05170c12249d10794fc2.jpg

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[4g63lover]

where did this thread come from? Good job man!

That v6 subframe is intriguing me. Jared, you sure the transfer case even without the tailshaft housing will hit the rack?

[dGALANTc]

Went-to-wire-up-the-speedo page 8

Post #158 he talks about the tach but I'm not sure if he meant speedo. I haven't tried it yet I just ran across it looking to fix my tach. I'm having the same issue.

[mrg7243]

Good job! Turboing at this point will be super easy.

[amaru7]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/200428580311aad99ee541b655f1cfd8.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/a2b3d1263b8147818742f0ee6aed7722.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/81411b7c5bb20c44a6a93c5910e170d5.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/4fd7bc8a9a83fc1df56a05455296846c.jpg

Just a few update pictures. I'll be creating a thread on doing the rear knuckle bushings. 6 bushings left to do in the rear and everything will be polyurethane

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[white2k3mitsu]

I went to the junkyard and pulled a 3g tranny with clutch lines, clutch and break pedals, master / slave cylinder, hard and soft lines, 3 harness pigtails, shifter assembly, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch and clutch fluid reservoir and sonata dohc for 146 and basically other then the dohc (lol) am I missing anything in my parts list for the swap I've done my research and see some posts about maybe using a 3g or evo ecu but I'm not sure if I need it I have a 03 2.4 es also what wiring needs to be done and how hard is it I must admit this is my first time doing anything like this but I was able to take these parts off so I'm pretty sure I can put them back on

[amaru7]

I went to the junkyard and pulled a 3g tranny with clutch lines, clutch and break pedals, master / slave cylinder, hard and soft lines, 3 harness pigtails, shifter assembly, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch and clutch fluid reservoir and sonata dohc for 146 and basically other then the dohc (lol) am I missing anything in my parts list for the swap I've done my research and see some posts about maybe using a 3g or evo ecu but I'm not sure if I need it I have a 03 2.4 es also what wiring needs to be done and how hard is it I must admit this is my first time doing anything like this but I was able to take these parts off so I'm pretty sure I can put them back on
I swapped engines too so I needed a lot more parts. I believe there are multiple threads in the swap...

But as far as I can remember, you'll need the following parts:
-manual transmission
-clutch
-pressure plate
-flywheel
-clutch pedal assembly
-clutch master cylinder
-clutch fluid reservoir
-clutch fluid lines
-shifter assembly
-shifter cables
-throw out bearing

That's everything I can think of. I believe you have to jump the neutral safety switch. No you don't need an eclipse ecu. I'm not sure about the clutch pedal sensors and wiring them in. I had to make my own harnesses

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[amaru7]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161210/0f912dbc07eb605783973f1a227fc2bb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161210/99537adbba08caf5197f3243977ba9d1.jpg

Sudden change of plans. The rear sub frame will now be getting replaced before my suspension is complete

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[amaru7]

Some quick updates...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/9a1f89a9ba62f665d3382e8d1cb5adbb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/845c34e8b236ab8a96fd80328804a6d0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/177444f2b4223893af2ebc9cc219a7b7.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/d723c5fda782a7bf61d19420e9f33c17.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/b64458faf6e0f5d6c537323b34246793.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/e52a19dac8a22feda1f86074daf7dc9a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/c1885e688a4514f8b66799b3c0eba0a0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/24a47d338412fc844e6987006ff03b7e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/fe0f58c12ed318abaa15bd3fc5505e61.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161212/06cc9206c274ec600565ba4793704b1b.jpg

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[xd_01]

Nice progress!

[spdracr]

Paint the area where u exposed bare metal or else it will rust very quickly.

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[amaru7]

Paint the area where u exposed bare metal or else it will rust very quickly.

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Yeah I'll spray it next time it's in the air

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[amaru7]

Couple updates from today...
Secured my battery in the trunk
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/709bce0155a6d3a9f716b8ab9d9589f0.jpg

Made a brake bleeder adapter to flush the brakes more easily
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/75e06c9fdbff561750e4741992ba4d8a.jpg

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[spdracr]

Couple updates from today...
Secured my battery in the trunk
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/709bce0155a6d3a9f716b8ab9d9589f0.jpg

Made a brake bleeder adapter to flush the brakes more easily
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161213/75e06c9fdbff561750e4741992ba4d8a.jpg

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What's this homemade bleeder for exactly?

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[amaru7]

What's this homemade bleeder for exactly?

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It's a spare brake fluid reservoir cap that I have. It goes onto the reservoir and then a hose from the brake bleeder machine connects to the fitting. The brake bleeder applies pressure to the system so you just open each bleeder screw and fluid comes out. No need to have someone pumping the pedal anymore. Obviously you must use a spare cap because you can't leave the system open because brake fluid is hygroscopic. Normally I use the brake bleeder at a pressure of 2 bar, but our caps are weaker than the typical cap I use, so I'll apply only about .5 bar.

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[spdracr]

It's a spare brake fluid reservoir cap that I have. It goes onto the reservoir and then a hose from the brake bleeder machine connects to the fitting. The brake bleeder applies pressure to the system so you just open each bleeder screw and fluid comes out. No need to have someone pumping the pedal anymore. Obviously you must use a spare cap because you can't leave the system open because brake fluid is hygroscopic. Normally I use the brake bleeder at a pressure of 2 bar, but our caps are weaker than the typical cap I use, so I'll apply only about .5 bar.

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Makes sense. I just gravity bleed and works well for me. I did it on both cars with brembos and had no problems. Nifty tool though.

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[amaru7]

Makes sense. I just gravity bleed and works well for me. I did it on both cars with brembos and had no problems. Nifty tool though.

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I'll post a picture of it hooked up. It's what we use in the dealership

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[amaru7]

My hood needs to be replaced. It's rusted and bent. It looked insanely bad with the clear coat bubbling up all over it, so I did a quick touch up

I ground all the paint and bondo off:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/b1f2391c5436776e7cd0ecce7832e0bd.jpg

Quick hand sanding:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/9a42cac71d3de6adedae522acde77b49.jpg

Couple coats:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/7790f88bcdf14ffdbad25864e7b9bbc3.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/885396c63db3a938f8aecd4b3fc177dc.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161214/7967726d0167d67429551d7185b9cb7c.jpg

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[amaru7]

One ended up not being enough, so I had to install 2 on each side, but here's a picture of one front camber bolt
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161215/5387aae5e38df6e1ea0f79a98d48e8c7.jpg

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[xd_01]

Camber plates might helpful. You can max those bolts all the way negative then use the camber plates to fine tune the camber and will be much easier then having to keep taking the wheel on and off for adjustments.

[amaru7]

Camber plates might helpful. You can max those bolts all the way negative then use the camber plates to fine tune the camber and will be much easier then having to keep taking the wheel on and off for adjustments.
Luckily I can adjust them with the wheels on while it's on the alignment rack. But yes, camber plates are a good idea. Any idea who makes them for our cars?

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[xd_01]

Thats a good thing! I havent really searched for galant specific ones, although evo ones look dead on. I havent tested my theory yet since i have plates on my coilovers but there is a used set ive been looking at being sold on evom that not only adjust camber but also caster.

[amaru7]

Thats a good thing! I havent really searched for galant specific ones, although evo ones look dead on. I havent tested my theory yet since i have plates on my coilovers but there is a used set ive been looking at being sold on evom that not only adjust camber but also caster.
Interesting. I'll look into it, but my front camber is just barely out of spec now. Wouldn't the plate actually lift my car about 1/2"? I'm honestly not exactly sure how those plates install.

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[xd_01]

Thats tru but probaly not by a 1/2". That would really depend on the plate thickness and the spherical ball used. Typically these are used on coilovers so if there is a difference in height it can be adjusted. I know you dont have coilovers so it probably wasnt a good idea to suggest them.

They basically replace the top hat, that easy. They rest on the same step on the piston shaft as oem.

[amaru7]

Thats tru but probaly not by a 1/2". That would really depend on the plate thickness and the spherical ball used. Typically these are used on coilovers so if there is a difference in height it can be adjusted. I know you dont have coilovers so it probably wasnt a good idea to suggest them.

They basically replace the top hat, that easy. They rest on the same step on the piston shaft as oem.
It's worth looking into at least. Especially if it's camber and caster. I'll be on coilovers eventually

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[xd_01]

Maybe so but most coilovers come with camber plates anyhow so waiting might be a cheaper option. Ive never seen any 8g coilovers come with a combo caster/camber plate but if that interest you the brand plates I saw for sale on Evom where K-Mac. Like I mention before Ive never personally tried Evo plates but they look dead on.

[spdracr]

Wait why do u need that much negative camber on the front in the first place?

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[amaru7]

Wait why do u need that much negative camber on the front in the first place?

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/01355c1b5668170284b75f5420f04655.jpg

I've aligned it the best that I can so far. I need the front camber to go more positive. It's currently about .4 degrees too negative

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[spdracr]

So u just need to add a half a degree? That's not the headache and money for it. Why is it that negative to begin with?

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[spdracr]

I'm not saying that extra negative half degree is bad, it's not gonna kill your tires if that's what u r worries about. The toe is what kills your tires. I wouldn't sweat it and would just leave it alone.

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[amaru7]

I'm not saying that extra negative half degree is bad, it's not gonna kill your tires if that's what u r worries about. The toe is what kills your tires. I wouldn't sweat it and would just leave it alone.

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I'm assuming it's negative from the lowering springs. Yeah I don't think it'll wear anything either, just being a perfectionist with the alignment. I'll probably just leave it

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[spdracr]

I'm assuming it's negative from the lowering springs. Yeah I don't think it'll wear anything either, just being a perfectionist with the alignment. I'll probably just leave it

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No the front won't gain negative camber from lower due to the design of the suspension. The rear yes it get more negative the lower or gets.

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[amaru7]

No the front won't gain negative camber from lower due to the design of the suspension. The rear yes it get more negative the lower or gets.

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I had just assumed it was from that. Then it's probably just from having everything out and disassembled from the front suspension. I didn't align it after assembling my swap. I waited until I installed polyurethane bushings all around to do the alignment. So idk exactly what caused it, but I know nothing is bent or worn out.

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[spdracr]

Was this picture of your alignment specs before you added the camber bolts up front?

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[amaru7]

Was this picture of your alignment specs before you added the camber bolts up front?

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I installed 1 camber bolt on each side before I ever even checked the alignment. Here's a picture of the alignment before I adjusted anything, and before the other 2 bolts up front...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/395c8213f1e9d94a6bb8a1d34768daf6.jpg

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[spdracr]

So it was 0.7 negative and u added the bolts and now it's 0.9 negative instead? I'd leave it at 0.7 negative and won't touch it.

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[amaru7]

So it was 0.7 negative and u added the bolts and now it's 0.9 negative instead? I'd leave it at 0.7 negative and won't touch it.

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Yeah it was but once all the other adjustments were made it went to .9. The alignment rack uses the rear measurement to calculate the front as well. So as you adjust the rear, the front keeps changing. So I like to do another caster sweep after adjusting the rear. Plus adjusting front toe alone does slightly change the front measurements. Next time I have it in the air I'll pull the front wheels off and just move the front bolts to max positive adjustment. If it's not enough, then oh well. I want to align it one more time anyways because my steering wheel is slightly off center. No pulling, just slightly off. Which means the front toe is set slightly too positive on one when and slightly too negative on the other. And then it'll be getting yet another alignment after I replace my front outer tie rod ends. I drove about 15k miles on my swap without ever doing an alignment and it didn't wear my tires unevenly.

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[spdracr]

I need to install the ear camber kits on mine and adjust it. It's too negative for my taste. Need maybe an added degree of positive camber to make it more flush with the fenders.

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[amaru7]

I need to install the ear camber kits on mine and adjust it. It's too negative for my taste. Need maybe an added degree of positive camber to make it more flush with the fenders.

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The kits for the rear that I installed can adjust up to probably 4 degrees positive depending on how many shims you use. I used 1 shim at max adjustment because I needed 1.5 degrees and it ended up perfect

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[spdracr]

The kits for the rear that I installed can adjust up to probably 4 degrees positive depending on how many shims you use. I used 1 shim at max adjustment because I needed 1.5 degrees and it ended up perfect

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Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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[amaru7]

Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/6f5d286b2832d8294165724200987119.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/bec3730f8fd9ba01411227b56d8d089f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/1c078ea9ded3f42b628c96e17bd5ac1a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/0cd68a484e7bc034e95b8cd8f34d99bf.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/734db63fdc8295e1a278357091fb1881.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/fe4d95ab7d1102da8d51dfd9ed0e76b0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/e55ec6d2134d6b1062566a77958de1c6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/eed84eb4193294f910abd33a57d773bd.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/ea055acd2d2e5bd77be11d068eaf304d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/fd17169c0f6ee01b173a7ae998cc5bd5.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/a08c5f85503931d2571491670e029a82.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/3d7bdabf7690915496ccdaa182451f95.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/b89fc72fda971891eed45670d45f11fb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/d3be7191458fed20ce408bff1fe4c7ae.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/34d283e575bdf782c67012457022804d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/536a05751d5d62a9e7cf6c8b89c4a5f4.jpg

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[amaru7]

Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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I had the same problem. The bolts in the upper control arms and lower toe arms were seized to the center sleeves of the bushings.

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[spdracr]

I know how to do them, I've done them on my last daily. Thanks for the pics anyway. Also u left that metal exposed without painting it. That's going to rust and hopefully doesn't get really bad or else it will be dangerous.

I actually have the upper ones and the lower ones with the bushings still in them, removed them from my last daily before I scrapped it.

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[amaru7]

I know how to do them, I've done them on my last daily. Thanks for the pics anyway. Also u left that metal exposed without painting it. That's going to rust and hopefully doesn't get really bad or else it will be dangerous.

I actually have the upper ones and the lower ones with the bushings still in them, removed them from my last daily before I scrapped it.

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Yeah I have it handled. Pretty much nothing rusts out here in Vegas. Back in Illinois it would rust in just days.

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[spdracr]

Ok good

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[amaru7]

DC front upper strut brace showed up last night, but it's bent. I'm waiting to see what the eBay seller is going to do about ithttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161223/a9a09a27669fdd76dc75af399f40ea88.jpg

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[xd_01]

Wtf

[amaru7]

Wtf
Yeah idk how it happened. The box it came in isn't damaged. The seller has agreed to replace it

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[amaru7]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161231/d85e70230cd9d6f0ac2f8755f216b717.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161231/32789f675a002cc315ed189c5a025409.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161231/14bb315d2b7379311d1a73220c270d0e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161231/68a93913e152cc73984bfd0f46f2a98e.jpg

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[spdracr]

It's much better to fill them with liquid polyurethane. That's not gonna help much.

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[xd_01]

I don't know what logical reason Prothane made the inserts like this but they've been known to crack. Putting slugs in the holes is a good idea but I would be worried they would work themselves out and become projectiles. I have Energy Suspension for that insert and never had a issue.

[amaru7]

Some new parts went in today...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/88405dc1b5a176c13372eb489a1d063d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/9909edb031e50478dd8ee4bca1af5c64.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/75c777bd5f7d80958c2037eaa5199c93.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/c98435b1eb759856a9d72f2f36365b26.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/816bb266401250d4dac1bac2eefa6db3.jpg

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[amaru7]

Took forever to locate a set of RMDSM sway bars

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[amaru7]

Oil pan replacement today
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170117/be8b2274771028b914013783454494ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170117/f9f2663c998f771dcc8e6c805d5245d9.jpg

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[amaru7]

Sway bar end links installed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170119/2cdec6ad02a514380d0a2f122d0d6db3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170119/8abf588f86a81c83fc3d7ae1597a2914.jpg

Front upper strut brace installed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170119/0d213839333fd29bdc9f8d6934c52011.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170119/a8e5280ca97036b02e6fc6306b399e7d.jpg

Until I eventually go with coilovers, my suspension is now 100% complete

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[xd_01]

Notice any difference in handling with the thicker sway bars?

[amaru7]

Notice any difference in handling with the thicker sway bars?
I feel a big difference. There is minimal sway while cornering now compared to before. I'm very happy with how it handles with the sway bars and polyurethane bushings

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[xd_01]

Yeah you have a real nice setup.

[amaru7]

Notice any difference in handling with the thicker sway bars?
Thank you, but yours is on a whole other level

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[xd_01]

Thanks, I appreciate it.

[amaru7]

Radiator support replacementhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171211/c075907907aef6aa7039416d9c9d0774.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171211/877a5b6172875243ab6ed64016b1cc11.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171211/4bf3241e3cdc051132d208aa28988f88.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171211/e44cdf9738417af868440b2a94cdbd52.jpg

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[amaru7]

These should help light up the roadhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180108/42802ab1ccc1f3cecaaf6bcecea5608c.jpg

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[amaru7]

1 headlight in so far. Have to relocate the horns. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180123/5ce1b923c0fff5fec82877cafc3b6c18.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180123/b5d647e83c8fa3027d4faa51ad3f163c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180123/90230128e5e552a9c50dc6f196015976.jpg

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[yhkwok]

So you replaced the whole radiator support to JDM?? or you still have to do the cut to make the headlights fit in?

[spdracr]

So you replaced the whole radiator support to JDM?? or you still have to do the cut to make the headlights fit in?No one goes through changing the radiator support for the jdm swap

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[amaru7]

So you replaced the whole radiator support to JDM?? or you still have to do the cut to make the headlights fit in?My radiator support needed to be replaced due to an accident a long time ago. I still had to cut to fit the lights

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[yhkwok]

haha, I should have known :P

So how long did it take you to replace the radiator support? coz I think down the road if I'm still gonna work on mine, I may want to do the same thing, since mine also had an accident in the front before, and it'll be great to make it right...

[amaru7]

haha, I should have known [emoji14]

So how long did it take you to replace the radiator support? coz I think down the road if I'm still gonna work on mine, I may want to do the same thing, since mine also had an accident in the front before, and it'll be great to make it right...It took a few hours. You need to know how to weld to install the new one. If I could've found a JDM support I would've installed that instead of having to cut into my new one

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[yhkwok]

Welding sounds far away from my skill set... Hmmm, wonder if any of those IGS vendor from Europe can get something like that, I guess the shipping is gonna be bad though, since it's metal, assuming its heavier than any other kind of body parts...

[amaru7]

Welding sounds far away from my skill set... Hmmm, wonder if any of those IGS vendor from Europe can get something like that, I guess the shipping is gonna be bad though, since it's metal, assuming its heavier than any other kind of body parts...It's pretty thin metal. Doesn't weigh much at all. It came in a bulky box though

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[gtx]

Welding sounds far away from my skill set... Hmmm, wonder if any of those IGS vendor from Europe can get something like that, I guess the shipping is gonna be bad though, since it's metal, assuming its heavier than any other kind of body parts...

If I were to do something like that I'd look out for dismantlers in Canada or places like PR or the DR. Than you'd just have to convince them to actually do it as it takes forever to drill off those spotwelds. Heck just buy a halfcut lol.

[yhkwok]

lol, half cut does sounds exciting! though it also sounds too much... what is PR and DR means anyway??

[gtx]

lol, half cut does sounds exciting! though it also sounds too much... what is PR and DR means anyway??
Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic. They got some jdm goodness.

[amaru7]

Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic. They got some jdm goodness.I'll have to check that too. I'm looking for the fenders that have the lights in them. EBay has them but for like $900 each. Ridiculous

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[yhkwok]

:P now I got it, yea I did see a few vendors on IGS that are from these locations

[seanske99]

It took a few hours. You need to know how to weld to install the new one. If I could've found a JDM support I would've installed that instead of having to cut into my new one

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My new radiator support just arrived yesterday. Do you have any pictures of where you welded in your new support, or have any suggestions of what to do when installing the new one.

[gtx]

My new radiator support just arrived yesterday. Do you have any pictures of where you welded in your new support, or have any suggestions of what to do when installing the new one.

Once you strip your front end, it will be pretty obvious as you will see the spotwelds from the factory. If you haven't done this before, I'd take it to a bodyshop, you want this to be alligned 100%.

[seanske99]

Once you strip your front end, it will be pretty obvious as you will see the spotwelds from the factory. If you haven't done this before, I'd take it to a bodyshop, you want this to be alligned 100%.

I figured you would reuse the old spotwelds for the places you can get to. I was just more curious as to the ones you can’t get to from behind like the square holes where the bumper bar attaches to.

Do you try to drill new holes close to where the old spot welds were, or does it matter as long as it’s in the same original area?


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[amaru7]

JDM headlights are in. LED's installed. Fenders are here. VR4 grill is here. Bumper is on its way. Pics to come...

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[gtx]

There's nothing like waiting for the packages to arrive. Now onto the pics please :D

[amaru7]

It beginshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/35453fce10a7905b20e89d751a4fc689.jpg

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[amaru7]

Didn't get to finish like I had planned. Ran out of time to fab up the bumper. The headlights are nice and flush with the hood now though. Here's the progress so far....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180612/d8146a0c243cf55477e3b048755d1d08.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180612/ac147dcb058f6516b87a49171e1b9c57.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180612/ce07da437f9db312e805a08f3acdc94c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180612/96f26d8e119fe821d8af776ed632461a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180612/5624162279c917156aef960bf9cb6d23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180612/88008e12d3d7de08c5b46e960572d861.jpg

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[spdracr]

Are those fiberglass jdm parts? I wish I knew you were in the market. I have an extra Oem jdm bumper and grille and fog lights.

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[yhkwok]

I may not get it just now, but how much would you sell it for? @spdracr

[spdracr]

I may not get it just now, but how much would you sell it for? @spdracrPm me

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[spdracr]

Your inbox is full. Did you get my last message?

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[rasheid]

Can someone help me find a cheap 4g64 ecu (Car does not use the following: immobilizer, injector resistor, no injector driver).

[spdracr]

R u looking for a stock auto ecu?

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[rasheid]

R u looking for a stock auto ecu?

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I replied to your pm, The answer is yes. Detailed answer in your PM. BTW Thanks for the quick response.

[rasheid]

Does anyone have a 4g63/4g64 shoc ECU dirt cheap? No immobilizer, no injector resistor, no injector driver, no turbo and no mivec. four connector type(like the evo 4). The vehicle has a TCU separate from the ECU.

Thanks in advance

[spdracr]

Does anyone have a 4g63/4g64 shoc ECU dirt cheap? No immobilizer, no injector resistor, no injector driver, no turbo and no mivec. four connector type(like the evo 4). The vehicle has a TCU separate from the ECU.

Thanks in advanceI'll reply to you the same I said in pm. No galant ecu has no immobilizer. U are asking for an ecu that does not exist for the 8g buddy.

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[rasheid]

I though persons here modded their ecu and deleted the immobilizers on the regular with the tactrix openport cable. If anyone has a spare ecu lying around with a stock 4g63/4g64 sohc rom would greatly appreciate it. Car has been sitting in a garage for months.

[spdracr]

I though persons here modded their ecu and deleted the immobilizers on the regular with the tactrix openport cable. If anyone has a spare ecu lying around with a stock 4g63/4g64 sohc rom would greatly appreciate it. Car has been sitting in a garage for months.Only the 01-03 was able to delete the immobilizer via the tactrix cable.

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[rasheid]

BTW i am almost certain the evo 4 ecu dont have immobilizers but is setup for bigger injectors, turbo etc...

- - - Updated - - -

What would be my best course of action at this point?

[spdracr]

BTW i am almost certain the evo 4 ecu dont have immobilizers but is setup for bigger injectors, turbo etc...

- - - Updated - - -

What would be my best course of action at this point?The evo ecu uses completely different connectors at the harness. Won't directly plug in. Any evo or manual eclipse for that matter won't work.

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[rasheid]

Just wanted to update the internet on my findings.
If your Engine is a 4 cylinder(4g) on a wasted spark system with 210cc injector and separate ECU and TCU (JDM, Some Eur)
The mirage MR420757 should work, it did for me. It was affordable @ US$50 and didn't have an immobilizer.
This should work even if you had an immobilizer on the 4g original ecu