egt

[8ggalant]

egt... why?...i keep getting mixed responses?...some say its juss an extra precaution..which i am all 4....but i jus wanna know the exact reason...i was told its to monitor gas temp which tells u if yer runnin rich or lean...well i have an air/fuel ration gauge so wouldnt that be monitoring the same thing?...somebody lemme kno...

[ken inn]

neither of them are worth much. use of either will put you in the ballpark, but you get much better tuning off of a logger, or a wideband. i consider them checkpoints, on a turbo car, you look for about .89-.91 to be safe, and about 1600-1650 deg. however, when i tune by the logger, which is WAAAY more accurate, i notice o2 volts show more like .83-.85 on my logger. if i am getting 0 knock, and 28 timing at wot, and inj duty cycle is 85% or below, i could care less what my egt or a/f says. the only advantate the egt and a/f(i have a jumptronix) have over the logger is they are both right there, and easy to read. with the logger i have to make some wot runs, and then play them back to see what it is doing. no way i am not going to look at the road when the car is at wot. if you are tuning with egt or a/f, or both, there are a lot more things you need to know. like, are you getting 100% tps? injector duty cycle? knock? timing? and you can hardly tune for off boost, where most of your driving is done.

[Lazarus]

Why didn't you just ask bro.

Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) is a good indicator of your engine's performance. Accuracy in Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) is very important. The turbo doesn't make heat; it absorbs the heat and uses the exhaust pressure. As the exhaust is blown across the turbine blades, the blades spin at incredible speeds. The shaft of the turbine wheel is slaved to the compressor wheel so they spin together. When you spool up the turbine, the compressor turns as well. Generally speaking, the faster it spins, the more boost the turbo will make. The problem comes when you're trying to turn the turbine too fast. To do this, it takes a lot of heat and pressure. If you get the turbine too hot, it can damage the turbo. At 1270 degrees F, the tips of the turbine blades begin to blow. If you get them too hot, they'll straighten out or even melt and you'll ruin the turbo. The factory Garrett turbocharger will pull all day long at 1250 degrees, but in our opinion, 1270 degrees is the DO NOT EXCEED temp for sustained use.

There is contradictory opinion and advice about the best place to install the temperature reading device (thermocouple) that supports the pyrometer, but there is no disagreement that watching EGTs with a graduated gauge is a good thing to do.

EGT's will run about 300 degrees F at idle to 1400+ degrees F under an extreme load (such as merging onto the interstate with 25,000 lbs.) Normal running temps will be between 500 to 900 degrees F. With EGT's at 600 degrees F, the 7.3L engine wis operating at its peak efficiency. Complete combustion is being achieved and converted into usable horsepower and torque as efficiently as possible. Maximum fuel mileage is achieved at this point. Above 600 degrees F the engine gets wasteful with the fuel due to load demands. Below 600 degrees F and you lose efficiency (Power and Torque). So when you're out on the road, pay attention to the gauge. If EGT's start to creep up, simply ease out of the throttle.

Some publications dealing with EGT temps favor Turbocharger Inlet Temp (TIT) and not Turbocharger Outlet Temp (TOT). This suggests that the thermocouple should be mounted Pre-Turbo (in the exhaust manifold) and not Post-turbo. (in the down pipe) In their view, if you choose to mount the thermocouple in the down pipe, EGT readings will be inaccurate. With the thermocouple in the down pipe, the gauge reacts more slowly and is reading the TOT which is lower than the actual temp of the turbocharger. The difference between TIT and TOT can be as little as 50 degrees F to as much as 400 degrees F under a heavy load.

Other experts point out that installing the thermocouple in the exhaust manifold, ahead of the turbo, raises the possibility of the thermocouple breaking loose in the heated air stream and damaging the turbo. With greater accuracy goes greater risk.

One expert gauge manufacturer suggests that mounting the thermocouple in the downpipe and watching for a sustained temperature of 1050 F, is just as good as mounting in the pre-turbo position. Logic would suggest that if the temperature can vary as much as 400 degrees from the input to output side, then the sustained TOT temperature to be watched for under extreme load should be more like 870 F (1270F "straightening" point minus the possible 400 F variation.)

The most convenient installation of the thermocouple for a TIT application is in the lowest point of the driver's side exhaust manifold. The manifold itself is made of a high silicon cast iron and is very easy to drill and tap. There is a place on the manifold that makes for an easy installation and since it's the lowest point of the exhaust manifold, the metal chips are easy to clean out. (Greasing the drill bit to capture and contain any loose metal chips does not seem to help much. Some owners drill with the motor running to blow the metal chips out in real time.)

The best location for installation of the thermocouple for a TOT application is in the downpipe as close to the turbo as possible.

This article is based on our own research through the trade literature, and discussion with gauge manufacturers. You will generally find that neither the manufacturer of the truck, the engine, or the various manufacturers of pyrometers take a public position on where to put the thermocouple. Neither do we. In short, watching your EGT's is highly recommended if you operate under heavy load. And just as in deciding how fast to drive, there is risk and reward in deciding where to place the thermocouple. We hope that the information presented will help you to reach a reasoned conclusion on your own.

[ken inn]

you CANT be serious. 1250 deg? if you tune to 1250, hondas will kick your ass. and i mean the n/a stock civics. at freeway cruise speeds, 75 mph, my egt is about 1300 f. at wot, 1600-1650. at IDLE i probably get 1000 f. wot at 1250 is beyond pig rich. car will bog, sputter, and generally fall on it's face. 1250 might work for a diesel truck, it AINT gonna work for a 4g63t

[Lazarus]

numbers arent right for us but that's jst the basic concept

[HiperSilver]

damn...pullin out the Dictionary responses here


EGT is more accurate
A/F will just do A/F ratio's

EGT-if it goes red your running lean and be prepared to rebuild your motor
if it stays around the middle...depends on your setup..your fine, too low your rich and pissing away gas...WHOEVER says this is not neccesary is retarded...and obviously your not gonna use this to Tune your car with..thats what wideband o2 and dyno runs are for