Many motor questions...please help

[Galanttuner]

Ok well I want to go nt with my car and not turbo or nitrous.
I tried contacting a couple of the motorheads here for the 7g's but they are wicked unresponsive and I gave up..not gonna name any names! I guess some peeps have lives.

Neways,
I see you have the 1g TB JIP, I read the post a while back, but where did you get it/did you have it bored out or is stock? I want to buy a 1g TB but the junkyards round where I live don't have any and I looked on RRE and they don't seem to stock them.
Anyone know of any place online that I can order a 1g TB that is bored out already? Also, what would be the correct mm to bore it out to?

I also need to know what fuel pump to get and where you got it from.
On a side note do our cars have a fuel rail?

One last question...I need to know the best applications to run for a nt motor regarding the injectors/pistons/rods. I know we want high compression v.s. the low compression in turbo cars but what ratio do I want for my car? Do the pistons and injectors from a 2g fit on our cars??

I know these questions have been asked before but no one thourougly answers them...so again Craig, Dukeplaya,ghost,jessie...anyone help me out.

[4-G-rim]

Hey GalantTuner....I read your post and well, i'll try to lend you some help

You want to bore your throttle body you pretty much have to find a place that will do it for you. You won't find anyplace online that specializes on boring out 64 throttle bodies. I have seen a couple of guys here use 1g or 2g throttle bodies with some little modification...they got it working you can also take that route. I bored out my throttle body a few years back about .10 mm i think..its been awhile since I last checked up on it. You don't want to bore too much, then you will loose some torque.

Fuel management:
You can use a 2g fuel pump or rewire yours...whichever you find easier. 4g63 fuel rails will work on the 64s because basically any 4g motor fuel can work. I honestly don't think you should put too much emphasis on dumping more fuel to your motor unless you are using some type of forced induction or have heavy internal mods in the motor. Dumping too much fuel into a stock internal motor will just cause more long term damage that short term performance.

If you plan to run a Naturally Aspirated motor the goal is to run higher compression. Why high compression in a N/A motor? Because you want high compression pistons to combust the air/fuel mixture thus making your power. Low compression pistons are needed in forced inducted cars because either a turbo, supercharger, blower, etc is feeding air into the engine unlike a N/A motor which is taking air in itself. There isn't alot of aftermarket suppor behind the 64 motors if you plan to take the N/A route unless your port and polish and bore internally.

Honestly the best route to making decent power out of your 64 is just force some air in there....but then again you have alot of obstacles to run into. Since the 64 has a 9:4:1 compression ratio...and you turbo it, you can probably run up to 9lbs of boost w/o hurting it internally. Once you get the turbo going...then you will run into the "bulletproof tenacity" of the automatic galant tranny...assuming you have one. (Oh yah...I meant that sarcastically). Its really something you have to think about unless more aftermarkt support starts happening for the 4g64.

There are guys here (including me) that have did mostly bolt ons on our 4g64's. I haven't dyno'ed, but my best run was a 15.1 @ 91 mph. That was with a custom CAI, NGK Platinum plugs, Magnacore wires, 2.5 cat back exhaust, bored throttle body, and a fully rebuilt 4g64. I do have RPW headers...but never got a chance to take a run before I parked the car in the garage. This is all I got for now....I am sure a couple of guys here will help you out. As far as contacting Craig....thats a miracle if you can....and ME TOO. Good Luck ...and Happy Galant Tuning.

[bronxbombr]

Go to ebay and type 1G or 4363 in the search.

[HiperSilver]

IF u want All MODA DOHC head swap, 12:1 or 13:1 compression meaning you will ahev to run 100 octane all the time but it will move, stronger rods, rings. Ad a HEAVY cam in there. maybe a JUN Stage 3


If u want turbo. well shit go search

[Dark Anghell]

I have heard that some honda guys tighten their head bolts a little more than what the spec sheet says. This raises the compression a little bit. You don't need a new fuel pump or bigger injectors just yet. The fuel system works just fine. Get yourself an EGT gauge. This is the first thing anyone who's building/turbocharging their motor should do.

In theory the car will feel the fastest when your pistons are about to melt. Which is about 900 degrees on 4g motors. It will take some time for a n/a motor to reach that temperature. But knowing how your engine is running is a good thing. So EGT gauge is the #1.

If you go turbo, lower your compression. After you get bitten by the turbo bug you will never go back to NA. Another thing is you always want more boost. So running at 9psi isn't going to work. Chances are you will want to turn it up more and more. 4g63 motors have 7.8:1 compression on the early 6 bolt motors and they run at 12.5 PSI, but daily it can be driven at 15psi easily, and for racing some guys are pushing 28!

So if you want lots of power, either turbo your motor and lower compression down to 8.5:1 with stock pistons, or to 9.0:1 with some JE or Wiseco pistons in it. You don't need to go to DOHC, a lot op honda guys are pushing over 250Hp on SOHC 1.6L motors. So just imagine what 2.4L will be able to handle.

In my opinion galants are too heavy to be NA, you have the power at the high-end anyway. With turbo you will gat and and a ton more. Car will pull harder uphill than it does downhill, and on the freeway all you got to do is push the gas pedal, no need for downshifting.

[sabzi5858]

in regard to pistons melting...

"Sure seems odd on the surface, yes. But there is a bit more going on here......

The 'ideal' EGT signature of 1600 to 1650 degrees F is determined by a number of factors. It has been generally found that this is the most optimal number for a turbo engine, as measured between the engine and turbo.

So why does it not melt the head? Why, if this is the exhaust temperature, what must the combustion chamber temp be? How can we run aluminum heads and pistons without melting?

It's fairly simple, really. Aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat. This works both ways. Since heat energy moves quickly through the molecular structure of aluminum, it is also dissipated quickly and uniformly throughout the part. It becomes impossible for the entire cylinder head to attain this temperature. Even on the surface of the port or piston, this heat will never reach melting point, since the entire part can never reach this temperature.

It is accurate to think that the oil beneath the piston and the coolant in the cylinder head are the major factors which prevent 'meltdown'. But there is still more going on! We have run air cooled 600 HP engines of 1.4 liter displacement that run 1800 to 2000 degree EGT's and still do not melt. Why? Same deal: the head can never get that hot due to its heat sinking capability. Of course, we only run them for 6.6 seconds at a time......10 seconds might be a different outcome!


__________________
Bill Hahn Jr.
"
but i'm not suggesting running high egt temps.

[Galanttuner]

Ok well I thank you for your replies and appreciate your advice on going turbo but I think I want to try staying n/a for a while...maybe if it doesn't work out I will then go turbo, I'm not planning on getting rid of this car for a while anyways.

After reading all your replies I have more questions...

1.)What is the highest compression ratio I can run SAFELY while still using 93 octane pump gas?

2.) Is the 2g fuel pump that I need the turbo or non turbo application?

3.)Dark Anghell, so your saying that retorqueing the cylinder head bolts tighter can raise compression??!?!? What happens if they are torqued to much?

4.) What exactly is an EGT guage? Wouldn't a s-afc suffice ?

[JiP]

Someone has a lot of research to do....


And no you dont have to bore anything out to install a 1g TB its a direct fit you just have to swap the IAC onto it.

I like sabzi he gives kick ass explanations =D

[sabzi5858]

well don't give me credit for the melting point explanation, that's quoted from bill hahn jr, see the bottom of the post :wink:

[HiperSilver]

Dont tighten the head bolts too much, you will fuck up the gasket and possibly cause a leak and the compression increase maybe from 9.0:1 to 9.05:1 , its so small its barely noticable and not worth it.

Highest compression on pump gas with knocking and detonating like a bitch is around 11:1 and that is the most i would go. But the high compression likes high octane gas, 100 will be doing it a favor.


2g Turbo Fuel pump, its weak, but if your gonna run around 10-15 pounds you can reqire the stock 2g dsm pump and be fine.

Exaust Gas Temp Gauge, Tells you how hot exhuast is (duh) until you start blowing shit up or running too rich and not get effieciency. AFC doesnt have a a/f meter nor a egt. Its just a tool used to adjust the fuel flow through different rpm's/setting to get the max efficieny out of your setup. DONT use an a/f or egt gauge for tuning. DONT tune yourself. take it to a shop that has a wideband and a dyno.

[jluv97]

Our fuel system is not so similar to the 63s...they use high impedence injectors

[HiperSilver]

yea, you need a resistor pack or low impedence injectors.

[JiP]

I just swapped in a 2g turbo ecu, real quick...after a month or two of cursing of course, but now i got it all figured out =D. Im doin headswap, but technically as everyone keeps sayin theres no performance gain between dohc and sohc, that its all in the ecu mainly because of the knock sensor allowing timing to be advanced out the ass...well then a 2g ecu swap should give you some added power...however I dont have a knock sensor installed yet so I run a lil slugish keeps me from getin speedin tickets for now though =D