Turbo Question??

[illmatic101]

I thought of getting a turbo for my g-ride and was doing some research. I found out that people say that when turbocharging your car you want an external wastegate for it to prevent boost creep and boost spike. But most of the turbos for our cars that I see have internal wastegates and canisters. Will this cause problems for my engine if I use the internal wastegate for it and if so can the problem be fixed? Also if anybody has a turbo on there cars with and internal wastegate have you had any problems with creep and spike? I just want to be sure that im not going to hurt my engine. Thanks guys 8)

[DJ Galant]

bro, usually running a external wastgate not only will prevent the boost creep, but turbo will spool faster and it will hit full boost faster than with internal.
Besides, at first i went with external because of the fitting issues, and then later on I learned a great deal about actual wastgate purpose.
I say get a tial 35mm - this wastgate kicks ass, I used to have delatgate mark II before (-aka deltacreep) and let me tell u. It is a big difference as far as reaching full boost at lower rpm, and quicker response, much less turbo lag and no boost creep of course.
Of course it looks better too.
Sounds awesome if u dump it to the atmosphere when running a dump tube like i am.
I say $250 is really good investment for your turbo setup.
Besides that , which internal wastgate will hold low boost appl, such as 4psi for example?

[ken inn]

external is usually for big turbos running lots of boost. i have a ported big 16g with 34mm flapper, and 2.5 exh turbo back. i have no problem with boost creep/spike. i dont think you can run more than about 8 lbs boost on your car/motor/transmission without breaking something, even if you build a motor and a transmission, you probably cant go more than about 12 lbs. the smaller turbos(14b) will easily boost to 15-16 lbs, and will reach full boost at very low rpms. there is a difference in "full boost" at cruise speed, or from a stop. in first gear, you will not get to full boost till much higher rpm's than the other gears. i got full boost(18 lbs) by 3500 rpm in first, easily by 2800 in the other gears. however, if i am at cruise on the freeway, say 3000 rpm, 10-12 in of vacuum, and i floor it, i get full boost in about a second. there is no lag, because the boost is there instantly. also, there are a couple of things you can do to improve spool up. you can reduce the distance from the mas to the compressor. the vr4 mas is about 2 feet from the compressor, and it has 2 very radical bends, one is almost 180 deg. when i replaced that with a dejon intake, which was straight, and only about 8 inches, the turbo spooled quicker. when i installed the fmic and the bigger piping, the spoolup REALLY improved. i could get to full boost in first about 1000 rpm sooner. at cruise, full boost was WAY faster. even the hks 264 cams seem to improve boost response. i have an o2 eliminator downpipe coming, that also will improve boost. 250 is a killer price for a tial, IF that included the install-welding a flange to the exh, installing the exh pipe, either internal or external dump, etc. in the vr4, there is NOT a lot of room, and i certainly dont need any more heat in the engine bay.

[illmatic101]

Thanks for responding guys. So for example, if I get the doug's dyno or the xtech turbo kit I would want to replace there internal wastegate with a tial external wastegate which should totatly stop creep/spike and make the turbo spool up better, right? Also how will I know which external wastegate will fit what kit? Thanks for the info guys!

[HiperSilver]

dont get a external gate. an internal gate will be FINE. Worry about boost creep when running over 18-20 psi on a internally gated turbo. I know guys running 15 street, 20 race on a 16g internally gated and no boost creep. I mean of course it will be better, but stuff like that comes into play only until after your engine is built and can handle more than 15 psi. I mean if your really worried you can port the wastegate and upgrade the flapper and that will help out, also porting the o2 housign helps. External will help spool up time and cut boost creap. Your gonan be running little boost and with a 2.4 spooling a 16g is like spooling a damn t25 on a 2.0. Itll spool fast and responsive.

Hope this helps.

[illmatic101]

The reason why I was asking questions like that was I plan on saving up alot of $$$ to replace alot of my engine internals to set it up for the turbo. I want to get Stage 3 heads from rpw(can't seem to find a price anywhere and people don't answer phones), stage 2 camshaft with v/springs & retainers, je low compression pistons & con/rods, possibley darton block sleeves, and a turbo kit from either xtech or doug's dyno. If for example I did get all of this what would you guess my max psi would be for the engine along with whp + tqr? Thanks guys! 8)

[ken inn]

the motor is only one part of the equation. what are you going to do about a transmission? no way a stock trans is going to handle a lot of power, AND, if it is fwd, you will get TONS of wheelspin. a couple of guys on the vr4 board have 2wd/4wd switchable transmissions, and they say in 2wd mode, the car is undriveable. wheelspin everywhere.

[cdaw2001ES]

Level ten - full treatment (custom cut friction pads, hardened gears, ported valvebody and 3200 RPM TC
Or swap to bulletproffed 5 speed, or pay BIG Bucks for a XTec - 6sp SWOL

Custom hardened drive shafts.
and all front suspension bolts replaced w/ hardened, and renforcment metal welded to weaker components

Racelogic traction control with
OEM Hub assemblies with wheel speed sensors

Standalone EMS
Standalone Trany ECU (when available) or tranny swap

ANYTHING is possible. $$$