california ecu tuning problems.

well i have been having some problems tunning my g, i am running a 14b at 8psi on the stock 4g64 motor. i am using a maf translator version 2.02,450cc injectors, aem wideband, memoscan data logger. so my problem is when i reset my ecu and start with tuning i get it all dialed in pretty good 14.7 idle 14.7 crusie and stays around .94 to .98 volts or 10.8 to 11.00 wot. the more and more that i drive the car the leaner it gets at wot. i start tuning and try to keep the stft around zero at idle and cruise but not long after the ecu is reset it starts taking away fuel then takes all the way up to -25 percent in the stft thus causing the ltft to be in the negative and is constantly taking away fuel causing me to lean out under wot. so i try adjusting and leaning the base out and all other knobs on the maft and it still is pulling -25 percent fuel. now here is the catch according to my scantool when i hook it up it says 0b2 california. now does this mean i have a california ecu and is this causing my tuning problems.

IDk what to tell you man. Try another ECU I guess.

This is why piggy backs are not the preferred method of tuning. Piggybacks try to trick the ECU to do what it wants except the ECU still wants to follow its stock fuel map. After a while, the ecu learns that its been tricked and re-corrects itself and the cycle starts over again

ya thats exactly whats happening to me. im going to try a new ecu and if that doesnt work i guess my last resort is to hook up the aem ecu plus. althought the 02 sensor is constantly going into open loop then back to closed loop when i am driving so tday i am going to replace that hopefully thats most of the problem. its been a really frustrating batttle. any input that any others have would help thanks.

you car drives in closed loop most of the time. Only when your throttle is open more than 40%-100% or so, the car swings to Open loop. Its not your O2 sensor. Your car is behaving the way its supposed to.

Either swap in a 98-99 Eclipse turbo ecu and flash that, or a Evo8 ecu and flash that or get a standalone.

well it is saying open loop driving conditions at 1.1 percent throttle then it will go in to closed for a split second pulling 4.6 percent fuel then go back to open loop then starts adding 10 percent fuel. it will never stay around zero its always adding 10 plus percent fuel or taking 4.6 percent or more in closed. the only conclusion i can come to is that the ecu is seeing this and is not liking the maf translator but then others are using the same setup as i am and are not having any problems. thats why i thought it could be my ecu but do ecus from california actually differ from other states?

If its jumping back and forth from open to closed loop then you have two things to consider - 02 sensor and coolant temp sensor. I didnt read if you changed the o2 sensor in your previous thread.

Like QNZ said the ecu is in open loop only at wot and at first start up in the morning. The coolant temp tell the ecu that the engine is cold and thata why the o2 voltage is close to 1V, when the temp sensor kicks in the ECu enables the O2 sensor i.e goes in closed loop

the coolant temp sensor is working because on my live data it is showing the temp rise as the engine is heating up but does our gs have more than one coolant sensor like the 63s do. and yes my 02 sensor is fresh. so mko what are ur exact settings on ur maft and how many psi are you pushing? would getting a 2g ecu 98 and newer and a 2g harness and just flash tunning it be the best?

7g has ONE coolant sensor. The other sensor is for the gauge. The fans are activated by the ECU getting readings from the coolant sensor. 1g Eclipses have another sensor just for the fans.

I dont really remember what the settings were. I know the AUX was zeroes since it doesnt do anything anyway, and the BASE was at A, I think. All other knobs are zeroed and the SAFC is taking care of the RPM tuning. But even when I didnt have the SAFC I never got any problems of leaning out and stuff. i only got a problem cuz i did my tune on stock fuel pump and when i put the Evo pump all my AFRs were off.

hmmmmm i wonder if i just need a super afc cuz all i have right now is the maft. i have a aem ecu plus but im saving that for my talon. so you never had any problems with it pulling alot of fuel on those settings. it just doesnt really make sense to me its like the maft is working sometimes and sometimes its not but no lights are flashing. i have my aux set at zero and with the base at zero it runs really rich when i turn the knob counter clockwise one click to lean it out it leans out really bad. but no matter what it evetually leans itself out at wot.

with the maft only it idled at 18.0, cruised at 14.7 and wot was at 11.0. these numbers were solid at all times. i added the safc to get the idle afr to 14.7 and some minor adjustment at wot. but i have the FIAV block off plate. If you still have the ISC and stuff, it will self adjust to 14.7 at idle.

My tune was based at cruise speed/rpms. I had the MAFT in my hand and started driving, got at 50mph with steady rpms and watched the AFFRs. It was at 13.5 or some. Clicked the BASE knob a couple of times until it said 14.7 at cruise. When I stopped it was idling at 18.0.Did a WOT pull it was at 11.0 It was fine at that point.

Im pushing 9 psi daily.

im pushing 10 i guess ill rewire the maft so its in the car and try and adjust stuff as im driving. them are about the same numbers im getting but then the next day when i start my car its like buried rich then under wot leans way out thats why im confused.

so i rewired the maft in my car and have the aux at zero and the base at a that seems to work pretty well still is leaning out under wot. green light is flickering on the maft at steady crusing speed? i wanna try to do some fine tunning with it is the rpm signal wire the white one on the 3 wire plug or the white one on the 5 wire plug on the distributor? for a (1998)

that would be pin 69 on the ECU

ok i already have the wire ran to the engine compartment so what wire is it on the distributor its self?

Dude im having that issue myself with my translator pro. i sent turbobob at fullthrottle my log files and he said the ecu is going crazy. Its reading 0 at the o2 sensors (unplugged or plugged in) but it still adjusts like its getting a signal from an o2 sensor. He is looking into it more in depth to see if its consistent so we can tune it out. Sometimes my idle is at like 12.5 and sometimes its at 16. Sometimes driving is at 14.7 sometimes its at 11.5... IDK what it is. Im really not up for swapping to a 2g ecu even though i have an eprom ready to go in. I hope like hell he is able to help me out with my tune. I have evoscan and all that shit so i know my logs are true but idk wtf to do. Its been sitting for 2 months needing a tune.

ya it sucks sometimes ill be driving and its reading 14.7 and other times its like in the 11s then sometimes its in the 16s. its really annoying cause just when u think its running good it changes and u try and adjust accordenly on the maft.

let me know what u figure out shadow19

Bob is working on this for me. However i have the translator pro so i have a little more room to fudge things SUPPOSEDLY! Anyways. From what i gather the car isnt going into open loop and the ecu is fucking with my afr no matter what. I even unplugged the o2 sensors and its happening again. Its like my ecu is stuck in N/A mode and i cant force it to go into open loop. He may tell me that i have to trick the ecu by sending voltage to it to go into open loop. That may not be the best solution but being that i have all the proper electronics to monitor and adjust fuel it should work.