gauge cluster problem (inaccurate needles)
hi guys
i recently took my gauge cluster out and also took off the needles so that i could scan to the gauges into my computer to make my own ones...
in the mean time i reinstalled my old ones and i can't get the needles to be accurate (speedo and tacho)...
for example - when my car is warm and idling the tacho usually idles at about 750rpm...to do that, i had to make the needle show -250rpm (negative 250) or so when the car was off, otherwise when it is idling it will show about 1,000rpm...
when the car is off the speedo shows about -20 (negative 20) for it to be accurate (from what i can tell going off the tacho)...
if i put both needles on to 0, they will represent higher values than what they should be when the car is running (hence me putting them on to negative values to make them accurate when the car is running)...
i know i was stupid to take the needles off the gauges without finding out the "proper" way to do it but i did it with my previous car and had the same problem but fixed it by trying to turn it further than it goes back and forth a few times and got it 100% accurate again...however, i've tried it with these ones and no matter what i do, for example, the tacho will either read below 0 (-250rpm) when the car is off or 1,000rpm at warm idle (250rpm too high)...
i have a 1990 model DOHC model galant gsr (australian) and i'm lost for what to do...i'm going for a drive shortly to compare my trip-meter to the highways one (it has a 5km tripmeter test on the road near by) so hopefully it will at least be accurate and the worst case scenario is that i have to put up with both the tacho and speedo reading below 0 when the car is switched off (or the speedo reads below 0 when not moving)...
any ideas what i can do to fix it myself? should i keep trying to turn it back and forth until it (hopefully) corrects itself or have i permanently damaged something?
please help https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...efault/sad.gif