Ok, so maybe it's not a "performance" modification, but it's a REALLY good idea. Especially if you're concerned with burning oil.
This one comes from the Neon community (thank one of the penny-pinchers later...you'll feel better)
Fact is large displacement, small engines like the 4g64 tend to burn quite a bit of oil. It's usually caused by excessive manifold vacuum at idle sucking oil through the PCV valve. The more well heeled will install an expensive custom made catch-can inline to catch this oil. These cans usually cost between $60 and $120 depending on how exotic they become. This is a bit too expensive for the average mortal, and people either just don't know any better, or live with the oil consumption. The Neon drivers came up with a solution, the $20 catchcan! As it's name implies you get all of the benefits of that really expensive catchcan for ~$20. Here's a short little how-to (pics can be arranged, but eh...I'm too lazy to just do it of my own accord):
Parts/tools required:
1 Campbell Hausfeld "Mini General Purpose Filter" P/N MP5138 ($11.38)
2 3/8" ID, 1/4" NPT hose barb. Amflo P/N 411-RET ($1.49 ea)
3-4" 3/8 fuel line ($1.39/ft)
Teflon pipe tape
Screwdriver/socket set (to tighten hose clamps)
Crescent wrench
2 6" Zip ties
2 3/8" hose clamps (2 are provided with the Amflow barbs, use of another brand may require 2 additional clamps)
cutters/scissors
Hose cutter (knife will work also)
Difficulty level: Very easy
Time required: 15 min
1. Remove the "stone" from the filter. That is for use with an air compressor and will only hinder the performance of the filter in this application.
2. Install the hose barbs using teflon tape on the threads to ensure a good seal using the crescent wrench. Snug is good, too tight and you'll break the "bowl" on the filter. This assembly will never see more than 30 mm/hg of vacuum.
3. Slide the ENTIRE length of 3/8 fuel line onto the "inlet" side of the filter and tighten down a hose clamp.
4. Position the filter (I found the A/C line to be particularly convinient) Remember, the filter has to point "down", if it's horizontal, it won't work!
5. Use the zip ties to LIGHTLY attach the filter to the mounting point. Don't overtighten the ties, they just need to keep the filter from moving too much right now. The filter still needs to be able to move a bit.
6. Cut the fuel line to proper length to attach to the PCV valve. You'll likely have to rotate the PCV 90* or so to line up, it turns easy though. Slide it on the end of the PCV valve. Use another hose clamp if you feel the need. On a Purolator PCV valve, the fit is so tight I skipped this step. The OEM valve is slightly smaller though, and may require a clamp.
7. Fit the remainder of the fuel line to the other hose barb and secure with hose clamp.
8. Cut remaining fuel line to length to reach nipple on intake manifold. Slip over nipple, securing with hose clamp. Tthis DOES need a hose clamp, a vacuum leak will likely result without one.
9. Tighten zip ties and cut off "tails" Check all hose clamps to ensure fit.
10. Start the car and check for vacuum leaks. Rev the engine slightly by manually opening the throttle body. You should see a white "mist" in the bowl of the filter when the engine is revved. If not consider replacing the PCV valve while you're here.
11. Be sure to check the bowl every 100 miles or so, until you get a feel for how fast it fills up. You need to empty it pretty regularly (~300-500 miles)
I put mine on last night, and after driving only ~15 miles to-from work, there is about 1/2 teaspoon of oil in the bowl. Do the math and you can see this is a SIGNIFIGANT ammount of oil usage! Try it...it's only $20...and it's imminantly reversible if you don't like it. (oh, and the CH filter is BLUE...so if you like blue...this is DEFINITELY for you)
