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I bought the car new in '96 and have gone through lifters and A/C parts like they're going out of style but the transmission held out and is still going strong. The other day, the car stopped going into gear when the clutch pedal was pressed. So now I'm looking at approx $950 parts and labor to have the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing replaced and the flywheel sanded. For anyone that's had this done, does that price sound about right?
mine was 1300 since i invested in a better clutch kit but sounds about right
just about all clutch kits include a clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateMyGalant
buy the parts yourself. ebay has sooo mnay kits standard or performance that will be WAY cheaper than whatever a shop is gona charge you for their parts.
this kit is as good as any for stock to mildly modified hp and torque levels. it will last too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ECLIPSE-GAL...1QQcmdZViewItem
now, with that out of the way,
i'd HIGHLY reccomend that with the mileage you have, to replace the clutch fork and fulcrum while you ahve the transmission off. no doubt they are both worn. you may have disengagement issues if you don't.
they don't cost much at all.
getting your stock flywheel resurfaced will be the cheapest.
but if you spend a bit more you can get a brand new performance flywheel that will free up some power and help you rev a little faster.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RACING-C...1QQcmdZViewItem
the aftermarket flywheel is just a suggestion.
but definatly go for the cheaper clutch kit i highlighted. plus new fu;lcrum and cluthc fork. should save you some dough. ad will make the tranny behace like brand new again.
if it stopped going into gear with the clutch pedal depressed, it sounds more like a failed clutch hydraulic system.
yeah missed that...Quote:
Originally Posted by manybrews
so is it that you can't physically move the shifter into the desired gear from the neutral position? or is it that after you move the shifter into gear that the clutch doesn't bite and the car won't move?
check for fluid leaks around your master and slave cylinders. slave is right on the transmossion, just follow the hard line from the master.
is your clutch pedal still hard, or does it feel like jello when you depress it? does the pedal return to its original postition after you depress it?
Yeah, I thought it was the slave too, even though it was already replaced earlier this year. I guess one of the springs on the clutch popped out and caused the problem. Even after 198k, the clutch still looked in pretty good shape and so did the fork. I do wish that I had gone with something that gave a harder pedal, but oh well, this works for now.