when clutch components fail and go horibly wrong

what a clutch and flywheel look like after a faulty throw out bearing wouldn't let the clutch realease completely. so from heat the starter ring poped off, sent the saftey bolts holding it everywhere and fucking it up.

fidanza is only covering the flywheel, even tho they all have under 20k on them.

faulty TOB
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ken005copy.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ken006copy.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ken007copy.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ken009copy.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ken010copy.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ken012copy.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ken013copy.jpg

Was the TOB OEM?

no sir, fidanza's from the 2.1 kit.

i'm a little pissed now. i ordered a stock disk and throw out bearing, i'm using my oem flywheel too. the only thing that will remain is the pressure plate. it's close to stock so it will stay.

so far in 2 years i have spent $1400 in clutch repairs. it's a good thing my mech gives me a cheaper price than the dealer (about half)

woooow.......-_-

When you put the new clutch in...put in a OEM mitsu TOB.

I hope everything goes well with Fidanza and hope they cover everything.

Damn Chris....what next???

Im confused, are you saying the TOB got stuck in the pressure plate? If the TOB wouldnt allow the clutch to disengage, did you realize this and get it into neutral, shut the car off, or did you just keep forcing it trying to make it work? If you forced it, well you know what the result is. That type of heat doesnt build up that quicklly for it to do that, you would have to have been riding the clutch for a few miles to heat it that bad.

Damn, it's looks like it went through a war zone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stewi

Im confused, are you saying the TOB got stuck in the pressure plate? If the TOB wouldnt allow the clutch to disengage, did you realize this and get it into neutral, shut the car off, or did you just keep forcing it trying to make it work? If you forced it, well you know what the result is. That type of heat doesnt build up that quicklly for it to do that, you would have to have been riding the clutch for a few miles to heat it that bad.

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it didn't get stuck, it's wouldn't let the disk come back in all the way.

when i had my car jacked up. and turned the car on and the car is NO gear the wheels would spin.

the disk was always making contact with flywheel. it was just chewing away at it slowly, and the clutch also never got seated properly and broken in good because of this.

Thats normal, at least my cars have always done that. Think its just friction from the diff. I could put my hand on the wheel and stop it with ease, not like it was engaged in any way.

But that is some damage man. Id just get a stock Exedy clutch and pressure plate. $80 and will hold any power the NA can throw at it. I had one on my silver 7g and transferred it over to the green 7g. Definitely use OEM throw out bearings though. I put the TOB from my Spec kit and it was already making noise just after a few days. OEM FTW in this case!

i'm using the fidanza pressure plate because it's better condition than my stocker. plus i llike the slightly stiffer springs. i'm putting a regular old advanced auto disk till i swap motors.

so as of now it's gonna be stock everything minus the pressure plate.

but i noticed my stock flywheel isn't too much heavier than the fidanza 8lb one. i say the stock is 18-20 ish.

this little fuckup is costing me about $500. more money that i could put into the built motor