8g 4g63t AWD...Finally done!
Originally posted 3/16/09
the rear half at least. :)
i wont work on the front for a good while till i finish the starion and find a really good deal on a donor evo, but i got tired of the rear awd parts just sitting in my garage and taking up space.
took me two days from start to finish. i took PLENTY of pics so eventually i'll post up a very detailed tutorial.
discuss.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...awdgalant1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...awdgalant2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...awdgalant4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...awdgalant3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...awdgalant5.jpg
*UPDATED 6/24/12*
So a few years later i finally finished the 4g63t awd swap. I won't bore you with too much info as you can find a lot of help/pics from both stewi's and goosey's build but i'll add a few pointers:
For the driveshaft you dont have to get an adapter from DSS to connect to the DSM 6 bolt rear shaft section; you can use the flange from an EVO. (same spline count; fits perfectly and much much cheaper)
Part number is MR145248. ($48)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/100_3280.jpg
For the front section of the drive shaft, you can use a slip yoke from a starion. it's the same spline count but the O.D. is smaller; the solution is to have a sleeve machined and pressed on. IMO this is a much more effective solution as the u joint is OEM size and clears the tunnel without having to hack it up. There is also speculation from DSM community that the DSS slip yoke is cut from a new oem yoke and welded onto a larger u joint which can be very dangerous if it breaks. (see link below).
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2244582
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/100_3314.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0678.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0684.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0694.jpg
Drive shaft length from seal to flange (assuming using the evo flange) is 56" ; I dont see any reason it should change from car to car.
For the boot on the steering column, use an evo boot to close up the gap that results from extending it; part # MR449901 ($13)
I also used an evo rear roll stopper (mount) for future ease of replacement; the way i modified the subframe allows for full transmission/transfer case service without removing/dropping the subframe.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/100_3242.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/100_3245.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/100_3241.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/100_3298.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0525.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0667.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0656.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0658.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psb8a8dd98.jpg
Video of first startup:
http://youtu.be/8VeZLe0n-AI
