Starting/Running Engine Problem

Printable View

09-21-2011, 05:25 PM
Thestangcrave

Starting/Running Engine Problem

So the long story is that I tried to replace my radio with one I found in my garage. I had to cut and connect every wire going to the back of the stock radio to fit the new connector for the radio I found. I found out (the hard way) that the radio from the garage was broken and did not work. So it currently is sitting in my backseat with the stock one.
I then drove to friends house, and all was going good. We went to leave to go to lunch and after I backed out of the driveway and right as she shifted into drive, she died, didn't sputter or anything just shut off. Tried to start her back up and when I couldn't, we pushed her back into the driveway.
Called my dad to come help (hes an ex-mechanic). he showed up and the car started right up and he got about 5-10 minutes home coming off the expressway with the RPM sitting at about 4grand and she just cut off.
She seems to run fine until she gets warmed up, then doesn't want to run anymore, and when she dies, you can't get her started again. She will just barely turn over, the needle hits 1000 and she shuts off, like i turned the key off.

Just replaced the distributor cap and rotor along with the valve cover gasket.

Thanks in advance for the help, sorry for such a long story :100:
09-21-2011, 05:55 PM
DiggerDill

Did u make sure the wires that you had connected to the radio had no copper showing?
09-21-2011, 06:19 PM
Thestangcrave

Yeah, they are all secure and look good.
09-21-2011, 08:36 PM
Shadow19

One of three things come to mind:

1. Coolant temperature switch
2. Coil inside distributor is going bad (most likely case)
3. Oxygen sensor

options one and two will more than likely never throw a CEL. When my distributor went bad it didnt. Master mechanics at the dealership had my car for 3 days and couldnt figure it out.
09-21-2011, 10:04 PM
Thestangcrave

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow19

One of three things come to mind:

1. Coolant temperature switch
2. Coil inside distributor is going bad (most likely case)
3. Oxygen sensor

options one and two will more than likely never throw a CEL. When my distributor went bad it didnt. Master mechanics at the dealership had my car for 3 days and couldnt figure it out.

Yeah I had a CEL for an EGR fault and the rear O2 sensor. after i checked the codes they never came back though. Still no codes. Any way to diagnose to see if the coil is bad?
09-22-2011, 06:08 AM
oakrdrs187

Believe me, what is happening with your car has nothing to do with the wires you messed with, nothing.
09-22-2011, 06:54 AM
Shadow19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thestangcrave

Yeah I had a CEL for an EGR fault and the rear O2 sensor. after i checked the codes they never came back though. Still no codes. Any way to diagnose to see if the coil is bad?

From experience, the EGR code takes a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG time to come back. However, I highly doubt this is your problem. Im not sure how you test the coil in the distributor. Do you have a pick and pull around you? If so, go snatch a distributor and check it out. You may be able to go get a spark tester at an auto store and see if the spark is weak when the car is warmed up. The rear O2 sensor will not cause this problem either. In fact, mine is disconnected and has been for over a year. That code COULD possibly mean your cat is clogged though.
10-03-2011, 12:02 AM
Thestangcrave

Update: Replaced whole distributor, and now she runs like a champ. Thanks for all your help guys.
10-03-2011, 07:24 AM
Shadow19

Im glad you got her back up and on the road. Its always a pain in the ass when its something stupid