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every since ive done the rear disc swap, whenever i turn moderately hard and use more than usual brake force, the inside wheel will lock and release repeatedly or just lock altogether. is this common on rear disc swaps? i would assume its due to cars from the factory with rear discs come with 2 piston front calipers and mine have a single piston.
Discuss
No it is not....................
flush your brakes out so you are getting even brakeforce distribution.Quote:
Originally Posted by lonestar22
you might also want to inspect all 4 sets of pads for abnormal wear.
no... only 99's had dual piston..Quote:
Originally Posted by lonestar22
Well now you dont need the handbrake to kick the ass end out.
my 2000 has dual piston calipers.Quote:
Originally Posted by dknight3
but yea, after 2000, the 8g's all had single piston calipers, no matter if it had drum or disc brakes.
yeah true but sometimes i dont want my ass end going out, and its annoyingQuote:
Originally Posted by 6G72gearhead
it makes me feel like maybe the ebrake is too tight but the tire spins fine when off the ground and id ahve worn away the ebrake by now.
is flushing a lot different than bleeding?
when you flush you replace the old fluid with the new. pretty much just keep bleeding til you have new fluid coming out.
Yes, its quite different.Quote:
Originally Posted by lonestar22
Bleeding the brakes doesn't replace all the fluids or condition the rubber seals and remove moisture in the system. Flushing is the only sure way to ensure proper brake force distribution and operation.
I'd recommend flushing your brakes at ever brake job.
And there is no regular adjustment for rear disc brakes. Though you may have an issue with the E-brake.
Can you tell which side its locking up on?
whichever side is the inside wheel when im turning
Does the ABS (if you have it) go off at all ever?Quote:
Originally Posted by lonestar22
and with brake fluid being as cheap as it is.
i just buy 3 liters of DOT 5.1 synthetic.
and i just flush the hell out of them. using more fluid thats even neccesery.
since i've adopted the "flush brakes at every pad change" method.
i've not warped rotors on any of my cars, and my family hasn't on their cars.
its also important to grease the hell out of every contact point and the slide pins with moly-based brake grease.
that way there is nothing restricting your calipers from their full fluid range of operation.
so now typically all 4 rotors and all 8 pads....... wear evenly. i don't hav problems with inner/outer pad thickness variances. or drivers side vs passenger side pad wear variances
once you've ruled out that your brakes aren't working les than flawlessly. you can move to the next set of possiblilties.
^sorry for the double negative