Phase 1 parts list

Okay, so I'm financially ready to start phase one of my turbo project on my 8G.

But, I need you 4G64T members to tell me if My parts list is complete.

Mitsu 16G from either 1G or 2G DSM
DSM cast manifold
DSM BOV [Already have it]
Intercooler [I have 2 for sale, but going with a smaller but much more efficient Precision intercooler from a local speed shop for $289]
Intercoller piping [what do I need to get welded? or can I get away with just coupler and clamps?]
oil lines [what size fittings do I need?]
EVO oil filter housing
EVO oil pan [this will work right?]
Misc. Gaskets [which ones will I need?]
couplers
T-bolt clamps
Injectors [which is my best bet? DSM? EVO? or WRX?. I heard WRX 440's are plug and play.. myth or fact?]
FPR [Aftermarket or OEM DSM okay?]
manifold spacers [where can I get them?]
longer manifold studs [ARP]
Piggyback unit [AFC or E-manage? what would you guys use? which is more user friendly?]
misc. gauges
O2 housing [DSM]
downpipe [What fits?]
fuel pump [which ones should I use?]

EXTRA STUFF:
Im thinking of upgrading to a C&R radiator thats not as long as the stocker to give me more space. looks like the small but thick racing radiators that dont take up the whole radiator support.

Also, Im thinking of using an oil cooler. which brands are efficient, and anyone know of a tut for installing it?

That's pretty much it? I will update as I recieve parts. Im planning to spend less than 2k bumming off my connections, buddy's, and the junkyard.

Chime in! I'm stoked.

Installing an oil cooler once you have the EVO filter housing is a very simple task. You mount the oil cooler, buy -8 AN lines and fittings, cut the hoses to length, put the fittings on, put the hoses from the cooler to the filter housing and Viola! The EVO filter housing already has ports for the oil cooler input and output and any hose shop can sell you the fitting to go from the metric thread in the housing to -8AN. I bought my oil cooler for $70 its a B&M cooler, its cheap and very effective and I mounted it to the front of the radiator behind the grille so it get good flow. Yes, the EVO oil pan will work, but honestly, thats money you dont need to spend. Take your old pan off, drill a hole in it and tap it for a AN fitting or take it to a shop and have them weld an AN fitting to it. At most that will cost you $40 instead of spending $120 on an EVO pan. Its the exahst same pan just the EVO pan has the hole for the turbo drain.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stewi

Installing an oil cooler once you have the EVO filter housing is a very simple task. You mount the oil cooler, buy -8 AN lines and fittings, cut the hoses to length, put the fittings on, put the hoses from the cooler to the filter housing and Viola! The EVO filter housing already has ports for the oil cooler input and output and any hose shop can sell you the fitting to go from the metric thread in the housing to -8AN. I bought my oil cooler for $70 its a B&M cooler, its cheap and very effective and I mounted it to the front of the radiator behind the grille so it get good flow. Yes, the EVO oil pan will work, but honestly, thats money you dont need to spend. Take your old pan off, drill a hole in it and tap it for a AN fitting or take it to a shop and have them weld an AN fitting to it. At most that will cost you $40 instead of spending $120 on an EVO pan. Its the exahst same pan just the EVO pan has the hole for the turbo drain.

---

Thanks Brian!

Reason I'm going with the EVO oil pan is because me and my buddies are going to take this project down in one weekend. I really cant have the car down for a week or two cuz it is esseantial for me and my dad to have the car for work and school. I want to collect parts, once I collect every single part I will dive in and do it all at the same time. Easier to buy the drilled oil pan, and just bolt it on no worries than having to drill into the stockie, just not confident enough to do that. especially since i dont have experience on it.

It shouldnt take you more than an hour to take off the oil pan, drill the hole, install a -8AN fitting with a plug and reinstall the pan. Then when its time to install the rest of the turbo system, take the plug off and install lines.

Where did you get your evo oil filter housing from I've been looking for one on car parts.com, but the evo is not listed?

damn i cant wait to see how this comes together and the power you make.
do u plan on retaining the a/c?
also are u sure u want to install a turbo if your iffy about drilling an oil pan. its a lot of work

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lonestar22

damn i cant wait to see how this comes together and the power you make.
do u plan on retaining the a/c?
also are u sure u want to install a turbo if your iffy about drilling an oil pan. its a lot of work

---

lol. I know how to install the rest of the set-up. I've never boosted an N/A car before. Hence, I've never drilled holes through an oil pan. I've helped build a lot of turbo 4G63T's though. In which, was already ready for oil lines. Im a noob in boosting N/A cars, but Im pretty experienced in turbo cars.

Anyway, still debating on the A/C. depends on my downpipe options. I prolly will though since its going to take a crap soon.

Im hoping atleast 180-200 whp. anywhere in between that.

One more thing, where do you guys tap for coolant?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by remarque

Where did you get your evo oil filter housing from I've been looking for one on car parts.com, but the evo is not listed?

---

I got mine from mitsubishiparts.com i think it was $75 brand new. Let me know if you need the part number

Quote:

---

Mitsu 16G from either 1G or 2G DSM

---

huh? neither car came with 16g's stock

Quote:

---

DSM cast manifold

---

ok

[quote]

Quote:

---

DSM BOV [Already have it]

---

is it a 1g bov?

Quote:

---

Intercooler [I have 2 for sale, but going with a smaller but much more efficient Precision intercooler from a local speed shop for $289]

---

just get an ebay one for $100. they do the same thing. and probably come in a better size to fit your bumper better

Quote:

---

Intercoller piping [what do I need to get welded? or can I get away with just coupler and clamps?]

---

couplers and clamps can work if you dont use couplers at the bends. also dont clamp too hard or you'll bend the aluminum. lol. Welds look cleaner and no chance of blowing off.

Quote:

---

oil lines [what size fittings do I need?]

---

10an for drain. 4an for feed

Quote:

---

EVO oil filter housing

---

ok

Quote:

---

EVO oil pan [this will work right?]

---

i guess

Quote:

---

Misc. Gaskets [which ones will I need?]

---

all of them

Quote:

---

couplers

---

ok

Quote:

---

T-bolt clamps

---

ok

Quote:

---

Injectors [which is my best bet? DSM? EVO? or WRX?. I heard WRX 440's are plug and play.. myth or fact?]

---

read more

Quote:

---

FPR [Aftermarket or OEM DSM okay?]

---

read more

Quote:

---

manifold spacers [where can I get them?]

---

why would you need this?

Quote:

---

longer manifold studs [ARP]

---

why would you need this??

Quote:

---

Piggyback unit [AFC or E-manage? what would you guys use? which is more user friendly?]

---

read more

Quote:

---

misc. gauges

---

you know essential gauges cost about $400+

Quote:

---

O2 housing [DSM]

---

not needed if you have to make a custom dp

Quote:

---

downpipe [What fits?]

---

nothing

Quote:

---

fuel pump [which ones should I use?]

---

read more

The downpipe going to be your biggest problem. I you use the 16g o2 housing and keep your A/C it will be in the way. If you remove the A/C then your good to go.

As for injectors just get some from a DSM with resistor pack or you can make a resistor pack as cloud did at club3G.

You also forget a vacuum manifold and exhaust.

heres my view on some of your questions.


EVO oil pan [yes]

Injectors [which is my best bet? DSM? EVO? or WRX?. wrx are plug and play just need to replace the injector O-rings if you get used ones.]

FPR [aeromotive is fine]

manifold spacers [you can get them from RRE, unless your doing an evo 8 or 9 turbo swap with the manifold your not going to need these due to the evo set-up the turbo hits the starter housing on our cars so you need a spacer and then have it machined at an angle to put the turbo away from the starter housing. evo turbos sit more to the right compared to dsm turbos..or the manifold you can say sits them there]

longer manifold studs [unless your doing an evo 8 or 9 turbo swap with the manifold your not going to need these.]


downpipe [gotta make custom]

fuel pump [walbro 190 or 255 will do]

im doing an evo9 set-up on my G and im almost done gathering all the parts for my install...club3g helped me alot in deciding what type of parts to get and what works best with our cars..you should take a look and read up on the turbo threads over there.

ur car looks too good man i hate u so bad...
everyone i have seen run a stock fpr has done fine thus far but obviously they are not making 500 hp but -- i run 190lph walbro for the 2g (tearstone.com has a tutorial thats good just follow it to the t.. ) i have dsm 450 blue tops, u have to wire the resistor pack and use some fuel rail spacers... not hard at all.. i use the stock fpr and tuned my emanage atleast the fuel side and i got easily down to 11.2 to 11.5 on wot with no issue...

the 16g with 2gdsm or evo3 manifold which is more preferred. U can keep the ac with the dsm o2 housing but not with the evo3 version its too big.. 2gdsm is preferable because it puts the o2 sensor downwards as opposed to the top near the power steering...

if u use the evo 8 or 9 16g u need the spacer and studs as hughes said.. The emanage needs a laptop and afc doesnt but afc has no ignition functions. ur call...

the oil pan is easier than u thing.. it takes all the time to free it then u can use the unibit and make a nice tight hole for ur bulk head... U should weld it as they said.. I put a nut on the bulkhead and jbweld and no issues but its bootleg... SS drain lines also as ur drain will be near the downpipe probably.. sorry for the ramble but i get pms and stuff about it