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Yo i had nitrous for a while now but i never finished installing it, i herd dont yse the dry kit because i can blow my (sht) up. They say use a wet kit now is this true or not? Give me some advise because i am about to finish installing it, depending on your comments.
a dry kit injects only nitrous. it bumps up the fuel pressure and makes your injectors deliver the extra nitrous needed. this is bad for many reasons, some being that your stock injectors are now being worked more heavily, and the nitrous/fuel isn't mixed before it's combusted, rather mixed "during" combustion, so to say. a wet kit is a lot better since it Ts into your fuel line, and gets its own fuel and mixes the nitrous/fuel together at the nozzle in your intake. so when it hits your TB, its already a perfect n2o/fuel mixture. the engine will never know it's there till combustion.
the thing that makes dry kits so shitty, is that they're inneficient, and you'll only get like 75% of the quoted hp. where as with a wet kit, there have been many many dynos where people are getting 95% of the shot rating as WHP, not bhp. for instance, a 65 wet shot will give you 60-65hp, but a 65 dry shot [sometimes, depending on setup] will give you half to 3/4 that.
i wouldn't advise a dry kit, since i've seen many a car go bad from dry kits on the DSM nitrous board. one person has yet to screw up anything with their PROPERLY running wet kit.
the only few ways you can blow up your engine with nitrous are one of 3 basic ways: 1 - your spark plugs are the stock heat range, thus, after an explosion, they remain hot and pre-detonate the n2o/fuel/air mixture in your cylinder before it's time, sending a piston through your hood. get spark plugs 1-2 steps coler and you solve that problem. 2 - retards who think they know more than the phD engineers at Zex and Nitrous Express, who put different size jets in than what the chart says. Too much nitrous and too little fuel will cause you to detonate - again, pistons go flying. 3 - people spraying where compression would be too high. you can't spray in 4th gear (5th for manuals) because your engine can't climb through the RPMs as easily, so compression builds up way too much, and thats when people blow up their motors.
with a wet kit and most dry set ups, you can spray all night and all day to your hearts content, as long as your air/fuel ratios are correct (wideband readings, no blinkly light show autometer crap) and as long as your compression doesn't get too high.
my bible:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11
Please go smack whoever told you about dry nitrous. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif
It's all about how you use them. If you buy a wet kit, and have a properly built motor, you can fire a bigger shot, generally. Dry shots are quick and easy, but can make power safely. Now if you're planning on running a 100 shot on a bone-stock fuel system, yeah, you're going to blow up, whereas you'd be fine on a bone-stock fuel system with a 100 wet shot.
Detonation is a little bit more complex than peano went into, but I don't feel like explaining it all over again. Basically, what he said was right though.
I'm heading to the gym, will be back to type more later.
i've been running my 75 shot DRY kit for some time now and always give wrx's a spanking...
like they said, as long as you use it wisely and upgrade the essentials you should be fine...but chances are after a while something will mess up im just waiting to blow something so i rebuild everything and go turbo.
yeah, like i said, dry system isn't BAD, just bad if something is wrong or the car isn't tip top. dry kit just puts more stress on components that are stressed enough as it is. as far as higher end tuning, they're not really regarded as an option, even though at that point you'll be working with direct port injection. dry kits were made (initially, many many years ago) to help out 10 second cars with fuel/air ratios. over time, they started making kits for the average garage junky with more reasonable shots.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>dry kit just puts more stress on components that are stressed enough as it is. </div>
Well, actually, it's not the dry nitrous charge that causes more stress. The lack of tuning that would/could result in detonation or the large shot (which is just as likely with a wet kit) that fatigues parts in your motor would cause the stress. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif
And yes, dry nitrous on a carburaeted motor is a beautiful thing...
Oh, and btw, pistons don't go flying. They just break into little pieces or fall into your oil pan. It's basically impossible to send a piston through your hood. It would have to smash through a shitload of metal first. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif
ya thnx fellas the info you guys are giving me is defently helping me out. I will make sure i upgrade my components before i finish hooking it up i want to try and run 100 shot. My engine has like 82000 on it so i might as well take it out on the track or something. 8)
Who did you buy that dry nitrous kit from? Did you not buy it from me? I had it hooked up for a year and a half with no issues. The zex kit that I sold you was set up for a 75 shot.
:duh: i know who i bought it from, but i kept hearing promblems about it foo.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scootinintegra)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>dry kit just puts more stress on components that are stressed enough as it is. </div>
Well, actually, it's not the dry nitrous charge that causes more stress. The lack of tuning that would/could result in detonation or the large shot (which is just as likely with a wet kit) that fatigues parts in your motor would cause the stress. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif
And yes, dry nitrous on a carburaeted motor is a beautiful thing...
Oh, and btw, pistons don't go flying. They just break into little pieces or fall into your oil pan. It's basically impossible to send a piston through your hood. It would have to smash through a shitload of metal first. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...lt/biggrin.gif</div>
about the piston thing,.. it'll blow downwards anyway,... compression pushes it downward https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif not trying to be a smartass here, but feels good to share, 8)
a tip from me,... when your engine is quite "tired" better spend the the money to rebuild it first w/ stronger stuff,... will add back the lost HP (although not 100HP), and the needed fundamentals when boosted, sprayed, blowed, fogged, or whatever it will be,..
then you can try add a small dose,.. start w/ 50,... nozzles can be swapped in no time w/ bigger ones,... engine internals?!,... hmmm,.... a week?! well, add the frustation and time spent to the "money box" to it as well,... and added time spent cussing the whole way back and forth https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(orangbaligila)</div><div class='quotemain'>about the piston thing,.. it'll blow downwards anyway,... compression pushes it downward https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif not trying to be a smartass here, but feels good to share, 8)</div>
Uh...yeah. That's exactly what I was saying...
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scootinintegra)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(orangbaligila)</div><div class='quotemain'>about the piston thing,.. it'll blow downwards anyway,... compression pushes it downward https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif not trying to be a smartass here, but feels good to share, 8)</div>
Uh...yeah. That's exactly what I was saying...</div>
I quoted the wrong post,.... hehehe.....