Have a system and your lights dim?

I have a 800watt amp and 2 MTX Thunder3128 12" subs, I dont use a capacitor.. just one distro block. I thought my altnator was the problem but I changed my battery terminals to brass ones. The problem is fixed, no more dimming https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif . You can get them from AutoZone for $2.49 each. Just thought I'd share this with the other 7th gens.

I tried the batt terminals, (both) it still did it, tried the monster cable ones too ($15 a piece) and it helped, but not much.
I even tried a 1 farad capacitor (rockford fosgate) and they still dimmed, it seems as if the capacitor is not even working.

My setup:
two rockford fosgate 1001bd power amps (amp birth certificate states 1400watts each),
each driving separate 2000 watt pioneer ts-w2000 competition 12's,
each with a 1 farad capacitor on 1/0 AWG cable.
alpine mr-pt20 4ch amp driving alpine type-r components, and alpine type-r 6x9's, amp on 8 AWG cable.
pioneer avh-p7480dvd in dash dvd/mp3/cd/etc...
pioneer xm radio tuner

If anyone knows how to fix the headlight problem, please let me know (all lights will dim even interior and guages)

from what i know, dimming also happens if your system isnt grounded correctly or theres a bad ground.....

Ground it to where the trunk latches or the rear deck.

I grounded mine to the center seat belt bolt, and it works great. (using 8 guage wire. )

Nope, not that, i grinded all the paint away from the metal under where the back seat folds down (still in the trunk) and used a common ground for all the components, so it's not the ground, although that is correct, if it's not properly grounded, dimming will happen.

From the best I can tell, I am pulling over 200 amps draw (90 each on the rockford amps, and 30 on the alpine) on a 90 amp alternator (that is also running the ecm, the lights, the dash lights, and various other electronic things), so the alternator can only supply the capacitors so much current before the system is drawing from the alternator itself. I may try a larger capacitor (25 farad, but they are REALLY REALLY REALLY expensive and need ventilation and proper mounting.) I've had the system some time now, and haven't had any issues with needing a new battery, or new alternator, so I may just leave it alone, and deal with the dimming.

Thanks.

capacitors don't do squat unless they're 50 farad or more...youre just wastin money...add a yellowtop, or put in a high output alternator....or buy better, more efficient amps https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif

I had the same problem and a Optima red top did the trick. Try that or any optima battery and you will see a great difference.

same problem the only way i stopped mine was to put a yellow top up front and my diehard in the trunk works fine now. Im running 0/1 gauge to the dist. block down to 4guage to the amps. 1500 rms mono block ma audio, on 2 12" RF.

when i first put my subs in, the lights dimmed, RPMs would drop, the whole package. then i got a new cheap battery and everything stopped. now with the yellowtop it seems a little more responsive and nothing fluctuates the slightest amount when the subs are on.

actually, i'm going to downgrade the system, found someone to buy almost all of it, (been trying to sell it for a while) making a couple bucks off it too. (will help pay for school)

I'm going to go low profile on this one, nothing visible (car was already broken into before) and nothing too extravagant. (less weight, i think there's at least 30 lbs or more of just cables, let alone the 150lb box, etc.)
I'll be selling the car before I go to college anyways.

But, I have heard elsewhere about red and yellow top batteries, I will definitely look into integrating that into my future systems, I don't like the idea of a non-sealed battery in the trunk though (99BabyBenz-aka Herb)
don't want any mess in a crash for instance, etc. so maybe two yellows or reds in the future??

efficient amps? what else do you know of that can produce 1400 RMS (not peak, rms) in that amount of space consistently with that draw or less (for less than double the cost of these amps?)
Not saying rockford is king, they're just a large company with lots of money to develop newer technology, and therefore can build great products like the BD (power) series amps, inexpensively. (I know there are other great brands, they just don't have the volume that RF has.)

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(monkeyracer)</div><div class='quotemain'>

efficient amps? what else do you know of that can produce 1400 RMS (not peak, rms) in that amount of space consistently with that draw or less (for less than double the cost of these amps?)
Not saying rockford is king, they're just a large company with lots of money to develop newer technology, and therefore can build great products like the BD (power) series amps, inexpensively. (I know there are other great brands, they just don't have the volume that RF has.)</div>

bro, not to be a jerk, but fosgate is mid-grade audio at best....look into Zapco, Resonant Engineering, Elemental Designs, TruTech amps...and depending on what you paid, you might not be getting 1400watts...add up the amount of the fuses on the amp, add a zero...and thats the PEAK output wattage of the amp (two 40amp fuses=800watts max power) simple rule of amps...if you wanna see a heavy ass system, hit me up for pics of my old system...

ok, fine, I didn't say Rockford was the best, actually that and the capacitors was the only rockford shit in there. I only paid dealer-direct prices since I used to work at Soundtrack (Ultimate) same with everything, dealer-pricing.
My system was tested at 155.2 dB, with a sealed (not ported or vented) separate chamber 1" MDF box with the seat up. Tell me that you can get the same results for the same price I paid with a better brand... (only on the amp, keep the subs and the box and everything else the same)

Where did you get that stupid equation for the max rating? It doesn't make sense.
Why would my alpine amp only have a 30 watt fuse if the amp can produce 380 x 1 at 2 ohms, and 760 x 1 at one ohm (yes i know if lightning struck, but for all intents and purposes...)? That would be max power, right, and by your math, this amp should only be able to get 300 x 1 total at 1 ohm, meaning 150 at 2ohms, 75 into 4ohms, then divided by the four channels, it's worse than a stock deck. this is not so. This amp is getting the roughly 75-85 watts per channel at 4 ohms.
Your numbers are off, and it may be a general equation, but there are more exceptions to the rule than proof of the rule. (hey, my numbers may be off too, but i'm not an electrician or an engineer, so it doesn't matter)

I agree that rockford is mid-end, but it's got volume so it can be less expensive for the same bang.

Let's both agree:
Rockford Sucks!
Dollar for watt though, they have little competition.
which means they sell more amps, which means they make more money, and more amps, and the cycle continues.
whereas other companies such as Zapco, Resonant Engineering, Elemental Designs, and TruTech amps which may or may not have excellent quality amps, have amps that are more expensive (smaller market share), and don't sell as many. Their technology may be advanced too, but I repeat:
Dollar for watt, RF has little competition.

I'd like to prove a point, who can get the most dB for the dollar?
Since it is harder to incrase dB after 130 or so, we'll decrease the odds a smaller system would win by multiplying the db above 130 by three (wild guess) and adding it to the total db in the equation, here's the equation:

C/(((d-130)3)+(d))=x

C= total retail value of the system, meaning amp, subs, box, wiring, if anyone were to get it without special discounts (msrp).

d=tested dB rating

x= dpd (dB per dollar)

For example a $4000 system that can hit 160dB would be $16.00 per dB, yet a $800 system hitting 130dB would be $6.15 per dB, meaning the lower priced system is better bang for the buck.

Here's how mine breaks down:

My setup: (prices are when new)
Rockford Fosgate 1001bd power amp retails for $599.99/ea (x2)
Pioneer ts-w2000 competition 12's $249.99/ea (x2)
Custom Box $200 (parts and labor)
Wiring $110
Total cost: $2010

put into the equation above:
$8.74 dpd.

My brother's setup:
Pioneer GMT-5000 amp $175
Jensen xs-1212 12" subs 2 for $129.99
Custom Box $200
Wiring $65
tested dB 132.8
Total cost: $570

put in the equation:
$4.03 dpd.

unless you are going to be in a show, or are rich, why have a system that does more than 130dB when per dollar one would spend less with a smaller system that would be sufficient? (My brother's car still annoys nearby civics and minivans while he's driving, and is enough thump for the average g-ride owner.)
I never had mine at max volume unless it was being shown or tested, so i didn't even hardly use the extra boom that I purchased.

I'd say, let's close this point.

you're full of shit dude...155db? no way in hell...not on a termlab mic...2 fosgates sealed...lol make me laugh https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif :roll:

oh, and my equation? ask ANY person who's been in car audio long enough to know their ass from their elbow...they know what i'm talkin about...it just doesnt make sense because you're upset that your amp doesnt make the power it claims :roll:

Well lets through this into the equation.....

Elemental Designs B312's: $175.00 x2= $350.00
Elemental Designs NINe.1: $300.00 x2= $600.00
Elemental Desgins Box: $125.00
Wiring: About $100.00 from KnuKnocepts
---------------------------------------------------------
Total: $1525.00

Seems to me I still paid half of what you paid using RF and I got more dollor to dollar ratio to your RF. I also hit a true 142db (at the dash) in a sealed 1 cub. box for each chamber and that is am impressive number for a sealed. Your 155 I am sorry to say is very hard to believe unless you put the mic right up to your woofers and closed the trunk. Where did you place the mic?

I used to own two 801s RF amps and when I switched them out for two ED NINe.1 amps there was no comparison. ED knocked RF out of the water. Alot of people well say a watt is a watt but I noticed improved sound quality and imporved bass response. Also the fact that I could only hit 140 with the RF amps. :roll:

There are better priced componts out there at far better quality then RF. You just have to look for them.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif just noticed this went way off topic. Thought it was in audio and all but it is in the 7th gen car problems. :shock:

Thanks alot Josh (SilverDragonGTZ) :?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DNA_Racing.net)</div><div class='quotemain'>https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif just noticed this went way off topic. Â*Thought it was in audio and all but it is in the 7th gen car problems. :shock: Â*

Thanks alot Josh (SilverDragonGTZ) :?</div>

sorry man, BS is BS, no matter what forum it's in

Firstly, rockford subs suck ass, I used two Pioneer Competition 12" subs

Secondly, 155 was tested at the dash as well, there were no special setups, the rear seat was up in it's natural position, the trunk was closed, etc. This accounts for having a well sealed, well sound insulated car (dynamat, etc.), and a well built box. The sound was not lost in the metal. Yes, there was a difference at 155 with the quality, but I never listened to the system that loud, once it was back down to around 130-135 or so, the quality remained excellent. I didn't use any cheat factors either, like digital bass boost or anything, the exact same procedures that the car audio shop uses for any car. They only allowed for a short amount of tuning, and then they wouldn't let me do anything until the test was over. They used the same procedures to test as would be used in an IASCA competition.

Thirdly, I don't really care if you think this is BS or not, because this is what my system performed.
Also, I paid WAY less than the numbers I put up there, but I got dealer discounts, if it weren't for that, I'd have gone with other brands. I only paid $50/ea for the subs, and 150 each for the amps, and since I made my own box (using a cad program to determine the exact correct volume for those particular subs. If I remember right it was 1.034 cubic feet that each separate chamber came to. It's been a few years since I built the box.), it was only $50, the wires too were only about $40. That brings the total I paid to: $490 for a $2010 (which by the way, half of is only $1005, you paid 75.87% of my system at retail) system.
Your info in the equation for comparison purposes, ends up with $8.57 dpd, whereas my system at retail was $8.74 dpd, only a small difference.

Fourthly, this debate is pointless. Both systems can make at least the somewhat reasonable 130 db in a non-competition scenario (real world listening) and even my younger brother's system that is running on a mere 380 watts max is sufficient for the average non-IASCA-competing galant driver. I paid way less than you or most people, and I am satisfied in my purchase, as well as you are, I'm sure. This has got to be the longest drawn out argument over nothing important. I have nothing more to say on the subject.

And finally, throw is spelled T-H-R-O-W, not your dumbass way of spelling it through (this word is used in the sentence: Sound waves travel through the air by vibrating the air molecules.) But maybe you were too busy making paper airplanes in elementary to have been paying attention in class.

elemental designs' website doesn't match your pricing too,

the NINe.1 amp, STARTS AT $350
the b312 is not on the website, but i'll assume it is similar to the 13Ov.2, which STARTS AT $195
the dual 12" pre-made box (35x15x9) goes for $140 (which is only common chamber, if you have separate chambers, you probably would have to pay more)
add in your wires of $100
that makes, only $1330 (you apparently calculated that you have four subs, your initial total was high)

Go back to school, and learn how to count and spell, then come back and trash talk all you want.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SilverDragonGTZ)</div><div class='quotemain'>you're full of shit dude...155db? no way in hell...not on a termlab mic...2 fosgates sealed...lol make me laugh Â*:lol: Â*:roll:

oh, and my equation? ask ANY person who's been in car audio long enough to know their ass from their elbow...they know what i'm talkin about...it just doesnt make sense because you're upset that your amp doesnt make the power it claims Â*:roll:</div>

Sorry, I gotta call BS too. I know SilverDragon knows his stereo as well as I do, and I know that no 2-12" any type of RF will hit 155. Sorry to burst your bubble bro, I've been in and watched too many Db Drags and know what can and can not even come close to 155. Anything over 150 is a bangin system with serious power and equipment. Seat up too? Not even close...sorry man.