I Can't Stop !!! Please Help

Hi guys... i've been reading and reading and reading and reading... and i've noticed that there seems to be a problem with the 8G's brakes... i know mine absolutely suck... i went to change mine yesterday and i noticed that the pad had 80% of meat on em... and the rotors were slighly grooved... normal wear and tear... but i can't stop for crap... i decided to just clean em off and save the money since they looked fine... figured they were just dirty... bought some brakleen... sprayed everything down... put em back... now it's like i have 30% functionality of brakes if that... where before i took em off this last time... i had about 50% functionality...

please help me...

by the way... i have a 2000 ES 4cyl w/ 43k on it...

Mine were warping a lot. If yours aren't warping, then you may want to just change out your pads....

I bought aftermarket powerstop crossdrilled and they REALLY stop! https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif

www.powerstoprotors.com

i'd check ur fluid to see if its still good. or maybe even get them bled cuz if you got air in the lines, its not gonna help u out...

my reservoir is full... pads are like 80%... it's weird... today i was able to stop a little better than yesterday... it's like a periodic problem... yesterday i coulnd't stop for crap... today was a bit better... but sometimes they catch... sometimes they don't...

i don't know what to do... money's tight so i don't wanna invest in all new stuff if i dont' have to...

i'm so confused...

if you blasted them with some type of "brakeclean", it will have soaked into the material.
you just need to hit 'em hard a few times to get rid of it.

I also believe the scheduled maintenance is to refresh the brake fluids at 30k or 2 years which ever comes first. Anyway, like Pinoy says, there's no harm to bleed them, especially if you've taken out your brake pads and squished the pistons back in a little. I would just get a small bottle of DOT3 brake fluid and do about 5-10 good full pumps of brake fluid from the fronts and 10-15 pumps on the rear pads to get rid of some old fluid. Just keep your eye on the reservior and make sure the level of fluid doesn't get below the min. level. Also bleed your brakes in the following order:
[LIST]
And if you get some SpeedBleeders to replace your brake bleeding nipples at around $7/nipple, you can bleed brakes by yourself.

thanks a lot guys... i really appreciate all of your input... i think you were right "brews"... cause today i was able to stop better than yesterday... but it's still not good enough... not even close... so i think i'm gonna take your advise TJC and bleed em... only problem is that the bleeder valve on the front passenger side is broke... the head of the screw is broke off in the caliper... not loose or anything... i just never noticed before that it's just in there... with no way to take it out... and i have drums in the back... would that really matter?... damn... i'm so screwed...

how would i know if my rotors are warped? is it visibly noticable?
also what Pinoy said about checking fluid... how would i know if it's "still good"?... i'm really sorry for all of the questions... but you guys have been great... i can't thank you enough...

it's scary... you know... specially since i usually have my girl and her 7yr old in the car... i don't want to take them anywhere now... i don't dare... me i don't care... i gotta drive my g-ride... but no way i'm takin a chance with them...

Are you getting vibration through the car / Steering wheel when braking ???
If yes could well be the rotors are warped
If not as Pinoy stated sound like you have air in the lines
Bleed than and better still change the fluid at the same time

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(EvoLuTioN)</div><div class='quotemain'>...btw TJC... why would that be the proper order... i'm not questioning you... you obviously know more than i do... i'm just curious...</div>

B/c it's stated in my service manual, lol. No really. I think the reason is that if there is air, you work it in this order so there is no chance of the air getting back into one of the other lines. I've heard in the old days that it should be done on an incline, lol; I have no idea what that logic was all about. :roll:

BTW, I'd seriously try to tap out that broken bleeder nipple. It may just be the reason your brakes don't work b/c of air in that one line. All it takes is air in one corner and it will affect the effectiveness of the entire brake system. And since you have to get a new nipple anyway, I highly suggest you get some SpeedBleeders. I have them on two of my cars and they are worth it even if you just do it once. :wink:

any ideas on how i could get that thing out?... i actually bought this weird reverse threaded cone like drill bit set... to drill into a screw and it's supposed to help you take the screw out... but that didn't work at all... is there any other way? it's not sticking out at all... it's actually flush with caliper...

You have a busted bleed nipple
That could be were the air is getting in
Take it to a brake shop dont mess with brakes
There have to tools to get it out get them to bleed the whole system at the same time

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(EvoLuTioN)</div><div class='quotemain'>any ideas on how i could get that thing out?... i actually bought this weird reverse threaded cone like drill bit set... to drill into a screw and it's supposed to help you take the screw out... but that didn't work at all... is there any other way? it's not sticking out at all... it's actually flush with caliper...</div>

yeah, that's exactly what I meant by tapping it out. what you have is a tap set for broken bolts and what not. you just have to make sure you have the right size. and the size of the nipple is so small, the tap also has to be pretty small. the hardest part is trying to drill the small hole into the broken nipple large enough to fit a tap into it and also not damage any of the threads. you also have to work very slowly and be patient. plus drilling a hole in any metal bolt is not easy either but has to be done in order to take it out.

other than that, your only alternative is to get another caliper... perhaps at a junkyard that has 8G galants.

if you had a lot of mad money, you can get a big brake kit that would include new calipers too.

You know what, I have my old stock nipples that you can have too if it will work for you. But you still have to get the old one out. Perhaps a shop can tap out the broken nipple for you too if you aren't making any progress yourself. PM me if you want my old stock nipples. These are from my '00 twin-piston calipers from a V6 so not sure if it's for your year and model if not the same.

I think the reason you have to bleed in a certain order is because of the anti-lock braking system...

Sounds like you have some major issues with the brakes... and if your not sure about what to do, I'd definitely take it to a reputable mechanic and have them fix it...

They are the experts and brakes are not something you live very long without!!! https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif

I'd bit the bullet and take it to a shop..... Good Luck!

thanks a lot you guys... i really appreciate everyone's input... i think i'm just gonna call a mechanic...

thanks again...

just called midas... got a 7:30am appointment... $19.95 for inspection... not bad at all... just have to wait and see what the damage is really gonna be... i'll keep you all posted...

well... i went to midas this morning at 7:30 in the morning... the guy checked out my stuff... said i need a whole new caliper since the bleeder nipple is broke off in it...

he also indicated uneven wear in my front passenger pads... and said it's probably because the caliper may have air in it... therefore not full pressure is being applied... something about we have "floating calipers" on the 2k ES's...

next he said that my rotors are almost at the minimum recommended thickness... his printout indicated .891 something or other but that it minimum accordingly to Mitsu is .882 so he didnt' cut em... i'm going to need rotors...

anyhow... he cleaned my stuff... tightened my drums... bled the 3 others... and i can stop much better... but i still need new rotors and pads... and a friggin caliper... which he was unable to find... he called a bunch of distributer's and indicated that he was unable to find a caliper... and then told me that OEM rotors would run me about $110 each????

anyways... that's my story... i saw a group buy posted on Brembo Rotors and pads by Axxis and KBR... i'm thinking about getting em... anybody have this stuff... is it good at all????

thanks again for all of your input...

Ihave the Brembo Rotors -they're awesome -waaaybetter than OEM -Do Not go w/ OEM rotors

Well first things first EvoLuTioN, you need to get a new caliper or have another shop do the work of removing the old nipple. I'm sure it's doable but may take a little time. You may also want to shop around and get prices for the caliper like at Don Herring and other Mitsubishi dealers in the area. Since you did turn the rotors, you should be good for at least 10k so probably have a little time but not sure if the one bad one is going to give you problems again and affect your brake system as a whole. Glad to hear you at least have some braking power back, lol. Good luck with fixing the one bad one you have left too.