Hey folks....I was shopping around and ran into this.....u think it's official?
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mits...t/O2_Simulators
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Hey folks....I was shopping around and ran into this.....u think it's official?
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mits...t/O2_Simulators
i don't get the question... what do u think it's supposed to do?Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldotem
They work, not sure about that brand. I know my friend has one on his downstream and it works for him.
Reelax, I was wondering if they work and how well,.....guess I should have stated that, huh?
So does anyone know where to get a good one (reliable) or at the very least, a decent one?
you can get something like this
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...adapter_fr.JPG
from RRE for 20 bucks each. they don't eliminate the o2 sensor. you undo your existing o2 sensor, put this bad boy in, put the o2 sensor back in and you should be good to go. no wiring needed for the fix. just have to make sure the sensor can reach the bung.
you can also make one for 3 bucks but it takes a lil bit more work
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinoyesv6
Use the $3 method its not hard you just need a drill and the proper size bit, when I had my header it got rid of the SES light. Works like a charm.
well all an 02 simulator does is eliminate the check engine light (CEL) when you remove your main cat (test pipe, downpipe, headers). it doesn't, by itself give any gains in power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldotem
the cheaper method is the space that pulls the sensor out of the direct flow of exhaust... it's more reliable (no electronics) and works just as well.
i did this on my car..u get a 18mm spark plug anti fouler (found at any auto zone, pep boys, etc.) and have a shop bore(drill) it out to 1/2 inch. unscrew ur o2 sensor from pipe, screw on the anti fouler to the o2 sensor, then resrcew both pieces back onto ur pipe... DONE.
you're welcome...lol
any clue on where to purchse the $20 piece? The pictures on the link for the $3 anti-fouler method arent working so I'm willing to just pay a little more to get something ready to put on.
also, this would go in the hole for the 2nd 02 sensor correct?
No need to thank you dickweed. If you had clicked on Pinoy's link (work) you would have seen the tutorial. Have a glorious day and remember, reading is fundamental.Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ KING
http:\\www.RoadRaceEngineering.comQuote:
Originally Posted by airborneparainf82
And yea Sarge it would go in your downstream sensor to ensure that the downstream never reads higher than the upstream. Otherwise CEL triggers.
so does the o2 sensor still do its job with this installed?
does it?
What's the O2 sensor's job? If you can answer that, you've answered your own question....Quote:
Originally Posted by guynlidia2006
how could someone trick the computer to thinking the main o2 sensors are doing their job... i just dont want the sensor to tell the computer to add fuel... me and my friend are making a hydrogen add on and it burns a little hotter and the ecu thinks its running lean and adds fuel... so how would i trick it?
asking questions like that and trying to make hydrogen anything will only blow your ass up!!! Wake up and read something like howstuffworks.com
Don't waste your breath Roman. Remember the projector headlight post...He's not listening.
If something blows up, at least it'll be in Broward County and not near either of us.
You cant 'trick' the ECU into thinking the first o2 sensor is doing its job ... because its job is dependent on the weather and throttle %. You cant 'predict' those two things. Only way to get away from the first narrowband o2 sensor is to install a wideband o2 sensor that can simulate a narrowband output, but you still have to run a total of 1 o2 sensor, no matter what.Quote:
Originally Posted by guynlidia2006
You are way in over your head, you need to understand how the ECU works. There are two different types of 'modes' the ECU will be in at all times, Open loop and Closed loop. In Open loop, the ECU relies on the o2 sensor for input so it knows how much fuel to add. Open loop is anything that is not WOT. In closed loop(WOT, anyhting over 75-80% throttle), the ECU switches to Closed loop. In closed loop, the ECU relys on a predefined set of fuel maps to know when to add fuel at each RPM. The only problem with this is when you start modding and inducing more air, these predefined maps need more fuel to be added. Thats where piggyback fuel systems come into play(SAFC, eManage, ect) or full standalones. The piggybacks modify the a/f signal to the ECU and 'trick' it to add more or less fuel.
I dont understand what you are trying to do with hydrogen. Taken from another forum:
Quote:
Nitrous Oxide is an oxidizer, it does not burn on it's own. When in the engine, the piston creating the compression in the combustion chamber reaches temperatures in excess of the 525 degrees Fahrenheit needed to separate the nitrogen from the oxygen, and it's the oxygen that actually helps the burn to create more power in the engine.
If you use hydrogen, in the same types of quantities that you would use nitrous, you WILL cause serious engine damage.
Well, although I didn't order the product featured in the OP, I did order another Check Engine Light fix from Ebay and everything works perfectly after eliminating my pre-cat. Just thought it post an update! :)
just came across this thread...im gonna go buy the anti-foulers tommorow...you only need one right? and when u guys say drill them out, you are drilling out the hole in the center of it to 1/2" right?