My Turbo Shopping List

Well I did my research and I want some feedback from some forum members.

Parts I Already Have

stock evo fuel rail
evo III 16g ported
another evo III 16g ported
PTE sc50 turbo
evo III manifold
revhard evo manifold
SBR 2g manifold
Tial WG
evo III o2 housing
2g o2 housing ported
evo 8 fpr
walbro 255 fuel pump
stock evo IC pipes
evo dejon intake pipe
greddy RS BOV
HKS SSQV BOV
stock wrx injectors
ebay fmic 28x7x2.5
innovative LC1 wideband
evo brembo calipers
evo powerslot rotors + pads
powerslot bbk
ss brake lines
sandwich adapter
stri boost, egt, oil temp, oil pressure gauges
2nd gen maf translator
3" GM maf
blowthru UICP
misc gaskets
oil drain and oil feed lines
fluids
ebay 2.5" ic piping
silicone couplers + tbolt clamps


Parts I Plan to Buy
none



I'm looking for some feedback before I pull the trigger and buy all these parts. well im buying them anyway, but if people have an opinion about something or know where i can get it for cheaper, im open to change. Thanks for reading

wow.. please keep us posted.. and make sure, once you get all the parts and before you start the swap, you take lots and lots o pics... good luck..

Get the Evo ECU instead of the Emanage. No reason in the world to get an emanage.

Also remeber to get the ECUFlash cable.

You will also need the oil lines for the turbo (if they don't come with it already).

As well as a resistor pack.

DO NOT purchase worm clamps. Spend $22 (s&h included) and buy 12 T-bolt clamps here: Link

Have you thought about Alky injection? It will make your setup considerably more bulletproof (no one likes a blown engine).

Other than that you look like you have an EXCELLENT setup. I can't wait to see it up and running. I bet with proper tuning you will be able to run well over 15 psi (timing control is KEY!!!!).

BTW Will you run into any issues with the orientation of the turbo, and the starter?

use your stock dipstick,
the evo one will be shorter and give you a false reading

will the Evo IC pipes even work?

do you still have the auto trans? if so how do you plan on using the evo ecu? there is away to use both, the stock ecu for trans control and the evo ecu for engine control... but is that something you are comfortable with doing?

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Originally Posted by Xska55

will the Evo IC pipes even work?

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yes. only thing in the way is the stock horn.

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BTW Will you run into any issues with the orientation of the turbo, and the starter?

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depends on the manifold i choose. with the evo8 mani and couple of spacers, i should be able to clear the starter.

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Originally Posted by underated

do you still have the auto trans? if so how do you plan on using the evo ecu? there is away to use both, the stock ecu for trans control and the evo ecu for engine control... but is that something you are comfortable with doing?

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i still have the auto trans. i was planning on using both the evo ecu and my stock one. im still reading about it on open ecu, but flashblue on club3g would also be able to help

awesome!!! ive bookmarked this thread..... :twisted: :twisted:

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Originally Posted by 4g63lover

awesome!!! ive bookmarked this thread..... :twisted: :twisted:

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Definately one to watch. Quz is flying under the radar with his build ups. First the exterior now the motor. 8)

u will need to fab some of the hot side ic piping because it wont fit well... for the evo ic piping i mean.. u need a evo to whatever flange for the bov too.. u can use the 1g bov flange and convert it for the greddy flange.. looking good..

I guess we are in the same boat QNZ

Good luck bro

Aaron, I have a bunch of stuff for sale that you might want. Including A set of Autometer white face gauges, Boost (mechanical), Oil Temp, AFR and Coolant temp (electric w/sending unit) and a Greddy EGT. Hit me up.

very cool man .. cant wait to see it done

how big are the gauges?

i hear good things about the zeitronix. its a wideband afr, boost and egt meter and datalogging. what other gaugues do you suggest I run into my cabin. i was gonna put 3 gauges into the 1DIN in the center console. i was thinking oil pressure, oil temp, and another boost gauge?

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Originally Posted by qnz

how big are the gauges?

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They are all 52mm gauges

wouldnt there be a problem with the timing belt the same way the 7g had with the headswap? the 4g63 timing belt was an issue and they had to use the 4g64DOHC timing belt for the GS....just wondering if that would be an issue?

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Originally Posted by Qnzfinestplaya

wouldnt there be a problem with the timing belt the same way the 7g had with the headswap? the 4g63 timing belt was an issue and they had to use the 4g64DOHC timing belt for the GS....just wondering if that would be an issue?

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No issues at all. The EVO guys are using their stock T-belts with no problems, or you can use the 94 GS belt, either way it works. The thing is, you need at least one adjustable cam gear. The adjustment is not really to retard the timing, you mechanically time the cam itself so its in time at TDC on #1, then when you swing the belt over the gear, you will notice that it wont fall into the grooves correctly, at that point, loosen the gear, hold the cam steady and spin the gear counter clockwise to take up the slack. In the end, the gears should read between -6 and -8 total for both. So if you decided to use 2 adjustable gears, as long as adding the #'s together equalled between -6 and -8 you should be on the money.

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Originally Posted by Stewi

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Originally Posted by Qnzfinestplaya

wouldnt there be a problem with the timing belt the same way the 7g had with the headswap? the 4g63 timing belt was an issue and they had to use the 4g64DOHC timing belt for the GS....just wondering if that would be an issue?

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No issues at all. The EVO guys are using their stock T-belts with no problems, or you can use the 94 GS belt, either way it works. The thing is, you need at least one adjustable cam gear. The adjustment is not really to retard the timing, you mechanically time the cam itself so its in time at TDC on #1, then when you swing the belt over the gear, you will notice that it wont fall into the grooves correctly, at that point, loosen the gear, hold the cam steady and spin the gear counter clockwise to take up the slack. In the end, the gears should read between -6 and -8 total for both. So if you decided to use 2 adjustable gears, as long as adding the #'s together equalled between -6 and -8 you should be on the money.

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ok cool, i was wondering why nobody asked about this