My diff is about to blow up??????????

i have a 96 galant
automatic
tranny has around 40-50k miles on it
a w255 pump, fpr, and 18" rims with 225 45 18 on the front.
pretty sure when they rebuilt trannys they dont swap out the mechanical differential.
tranny shifts awesome, 10- 15k miles ago i went to trick shift syntetic atf new tranny filter the works.
i drove around for 6k miles on horibly bad mounts beating the life of the car.
i always do. ive had 3 galants and 2-3 eclipses
i change my oil with delvac syntetic ( turbo diesel truck oil) every 2000 miles 3000 the most.
check all fluids and i only burn oil here and then.
but i abuse the hell of my car.
i mean downshift at 65 and slam 3rd at 70 and ride third till 100 or redline and so on.
i relly beat my car to hell and back. but i upkeep it maticoulusly 10000 times more than i should.
plus i keep an arsenal of tools an misc car parts in my trunk, extra weight and more abuse, plus kyb shocks and tires inflated at 40 - 50 psi.
my point to all this is the car runs much harder than it did stock, has much more strain n i drive like an animal.
you guys are fully informed.
now bout a month ago or more i started getting a vibration when under hard acceleration dont matter what gear what speed.
and itd go away when i let off and completely disappear under the same scenario but in neutral.
i figure tie rods. i run procedure and check both sides for play while on a jack with n without rims. neither ball joints nor inner nor outer tierods. even with new kyb shocks or old factory ones.
i then figre cv joints which are beat to hell.
take em out n see no real damage, just a torn inner boot and no grease.
i notice that when im in there i turn the axle forward and back and i here a distinct clacking noise , aswell as the one u here when hitiing the parking pin.
i triple check everything and throw it back together.
new axle. (this is passenger side by the way)
i drive off n the same thing. in the last 4 days its been pregresivle getting worse to the point where im scared it might blow up and loose control.
ive had this happen on a 92 accord 5 speed were the diff blew the center rod and flew out along with some diff gears also shaterring the transfer case.
any suggestions or similar stories?

Huh? First of all I think you think that you know more then you really do. A 92 Accord does not have a transfer case, you are probably thinking of the bell housing.

Secondly, stop beating your car to hell, its a family sedan, not a bullet proof race car.

Thirdly, what is a 'parking pin'?

Fourthly, did you replace your worn motor mounts you mentioned?

Fifthly, why are you running 'turbo diesel' motor oil in a non-turbo, non-diesel 4-cylinder car? What weight is the oil?

Sixlthy, It doesnt matter how much you upkeep the car, nothing can prevent something from blowing up when you push the car far past its limits.

Seventhly, that is all.

Let me repost this... civilly:

From reading what I did earlier, what is your ultimate goal for your car?

I read something along the lines of a 7th Gen RWD Turbo (rally feel) car, 5spd with built internals?

right?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by seth98esT

Huh? First of all I think you think that you know more then you really do. A 92 Accord does not have a transfer case, you are probably thinking of the bell housing.

Secondly, stop beating your car to hell, its a family sedan, not a bullet proof race car.

Thirdly, what is a 'parking pin'?

Fourthly, did you replace your worn motor mounts you mentioned?

Fifthly, why are you running 'turbo diesel' motor oil in a non-turbo, non-diesel 4-cylinder car? What weight is the oil?

Sixlthy, It doesnt matter how much you upkeep the car, nothing can prevent something from blowing up when you push the car far past its limits.

Seventhly, that is all.

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thats what i meant, the bellhusing, i bought another tranny to find it had shot gears, took it ack off and put the diff inside my orignal tranny along with the new ones housing cus the other was ripped open by shrapnel.

a parkin pin i call whatever locks the car when put in park.

yes all motor mounts have been replaced with new ones.

im running turbo diesel because after all the car has its miles and ive experimented with all oils and the abuse i put on it burns as the car is not meant to be constantly turning 6300 rpms. the rings either are mildly worn or the rings cant clear the oil at those rpms.
last i understand, thats why im on here asking on a more experienced advice from you guys because ive been following up with TGC for years now and all has been very good information annd many of your mebers have gone very far and have great built cars.
and reliable.
so with that more experienced advise id like to know if its pretty possible its the diff, or if anyone has pushed these cars as far as i have, if not then let me tell you its a soldier!
i have many really good recources in south fl and hookups if u may. if this blows ill just slap another one in.
its no big deal for me to spend 5-8 hours replacing a motor.
now if the diff IS the problem can i replace it with tranny in car? or will the rest of the tranny be shot due to shavings?
the only thing i normally dont touch is automatic.
the OD always dies out and the damn TCU always shorts and throws it into limp mode, this car is in great shape and only cus the tranny was rebuilt 40 or so k miles ago is why its still in there.
the tcu n OD happened to me personally and upon some research its common.

i know its a 4dr family sedan but the heart is originally that of the vr4's from a generation ago and then some to the evo of today.
and they are just as much bolt on interchangable as hondas, seen a integra awd lately? i have.
ive seen a guy weld the diff on 6g vr4's and wam rwd vr4.
not sure if its reliable but damn sure unique.

n so far my recources go i can digg up good parts for even better prices.
i got a complet kit froma gsx minus piping intercooler and pan.
and all under $350 including a safcII
and all was bought seperate.
i go to the bowels off hell n back but the price is worth it.

n im sorry for being an ashole im just stressed and in distress with this situation and need a quick fix plus a future plan on re enforcing it cus thats my driving style, n if there aint a cheap fix then shit the money for real racing parts.
n i know what im doing, maybey my terminology might be off but i do my work alone and dont discuss it among others till now.
any help greatly apreciated, and im sorry if ive come across an idiot 16 yr old ricer boy wana be 7g owner .

mechanics and perfomance is my life i eat sleep shit it basically
its my carreer path
my life
and mitsubishi my choice within it

i have a freind with an acura CL
we swapped a h22a1 mildy built , and it hoars
another a 325 m3 everything
and a ranger gt witha 302 swap

i know what im doing ;)
thanks let me know

I just dont understand your modlist. You have a fuel pump capable of handling 500hp and an adjustable(I assume) FPR(which is correct for that pump), but everything else is stock? You dont benefit from those two mods on a stock motor.

Anyway, you cannot replace the diff with the trans in the car. You have to pull the entire casings in sections until you get the main housing off, the diff just lifts out.

Check it:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BMT.html

But I dont think that this is your problem based on your symptoms. Can you give us a bit better explanation then 'a vibration under hard acceleration'? What type of vibration? Does the car shutter? Do the RPMs not climb as fast? We cant help you unless you explain it a little more. And dont type 6 paragraphs about something that has nothing to do with your problem :P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by seth98esT

I just dont understand your modlist. You have a fuel pump capable of handling 500hp and an adjustable(I assume) FPR(which is correct for that pump), but everything else is stock? You dont benefit from those two mods on a stock motor.

Anyway, you cannot replace the diff with the trans in the car. You have to pull the entire casings in sections until you get the main housing off, the diff just lifts out.

Check it:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BMT.html

But I dont think that this is your problem based on your symptoms. Can you give us a bit better explanation then 'a vibration under hard acceleration'? What type of vibration? Does the car shutter? Do the RPMs not climb as fast? We cant help you unless you explain it a little more. And dont type 6 paragraphs about something that has nothing to do with your problem :P

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good and thanks
now were getting some where
ok my point for the pump is im soon to be turbo
and the fpr obviously for the pump

the reason i said it is cus the car runs alot stronger after both the mods
not more power but it always felt like it ran
kinda lean before. maybey my pump was givinig out.
so i figure that and the strain from the rims and the extra weight finally had its toll.
anyways i just drove it again and maybey its the driver cv axle.
it shakes and wabbles like crazy when under any throtle now, not only hard accelaration.
but i drove witha freind next to me and says theres no wabble on either side.
im thinking it lost one of the balls or bearings. theyve been in bad shape for a long time

i'd hope you lost the bearings because i'd be ashamed to call myself a man if I lost my balls...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by quicksilver22

Let me repost this... civilly:

From reading what I did earlier, what is your ultimate goal for your car?

I read something along the lines of a 7th Gen RWD Turbo (rally feel) car, 5spd with built internals?

right?

---

pretty much street / off road
turbo rwd
ive seen it done on a earlier gen vr4
still wondering how they did it.
but w/e its possible.
just rear subframe with all suspension gas tank some welding n it should fit the galants.

ill take it to work tomorrow throw it on the lift n if work is slow i can see exactly whats happening.
i just hope i make it to work n dont blow something up on the way there.
times like this i wish i hadnt sold the talon.
horibble when ur only car is on its limbs.

Do yourself a favor and take to an actual mechanic and have him take a look at it. It may cost you some $$$ but best case they could tell you what’s wrong. And you can fix it yourself.

You said

“mechanics and perfomance is my life i eat sleep shit it basically
its my carreer path
my life
and mitsubishi my choice within it”

It can’t hurt to get a second opinion. Also stop driving like you a crack-head and you problems may cease.

I used to work part time in a shop and there was always someone driving trying to manually drive an auto trans. Please stop the abuse. Your car will thank you.

Dude-

1. if ANY boot on your CV axles is torn and there is no grease left the joint is dead and gone. Replace the entire axle its cheaper and easier.

2. Replace your motor mounts. All you need is a small floor jack and a thin block of wood. You can change these yourself with a little patience and perserverance in a couple hours. having bad motor mounts is why your driveline is at the wrong angle and tearing itself apart, and probably your steering tie rods also.

3. There is no advantage to using a diesel engine oil in your engine. use a normal 10W-30. Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil one 5000 are the only brands I can honestly recommend. Whichever oil you choose, use a Mobil One oil filter becuase they are the best. Using a thicker oil will not keep it out of your combustion chamber, thats what the oil ring on your piston is for. If one cylinder in that engine was burning 1/1000 of a drop of oil per cycle, you would be losing 1 quart of oil every 2 miles. So don't tell me you need a thick diesel oil becuase you don't, its just going to have a harder time moving through the pump and bearing journals and cause more harm than good.

4.

thanks for the help
since then i took out one day on a calm note n realized the cv joint was shot but in the inner part of the axle.
it lost a bearing and made it wobble badly.
freaked me out real nice.
but i rebuilt em both n happy sailing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by galantryinbattle

Dude-

1. if ANY boot on your CV axles is torn and there is no grease left the joint is dead and gone. Replace the entire axle its cheaper and easier.

2. Replace your motor mounts. All you need is a small floor jack and a thin block of wood. You can change these yourself with a little patience and perserverance in a couple hours. having bad motor mounts is why your driveline is at the wrong angle and tearing itself apart, and probably your steering tie rods also.

3. There is no advantage to using a diesel engine oil in your engine. use a normal 10W-30. Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil one 5000 are the only brands I can honestly recommend. Whichever oil you choose, use a Mobil One oil filter becuase they are the best. Using a thicker oil will not keep it out of your combustion chamber, thats what the oil ring on your piston is for. If one cylinder in that engine was burning 1/1000 of a drop of oil per cycle, you would be losing 1 quart of oil every 2 miles. So don't tell me you need a thick diesel oil becuase you don't, its just going to have a harder time moving through the pump and bearing journals and cause more harm than good.

4.

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yea ur right, diesel oil is just thicker with hell more detergants.
since then ive been experementing left n right and forund 15/40 mobil 1 the best.
and i useed to work as a mobil 1 tech and one thing i learned is those mobil one filters are just the sme as a purulator, actualy made by them and rebadged.
its a blue pure one filter painted black. better material gaskets and a spring coil internal magnet like the factory 4459.
no better than the fram.
and for those that dont know m1 extended life uses he same stock base supersyn that royal purple does. just no purple tint.
n it used to be cheaper. but the same price now.
down here its almost $9 a qt.

n the tick oil is me stressing the car burning a qt evrery 500 miles.
but hey it runs great so i live with it.
n with gas so expensive the price of oil dont surprice me. i stoped looking at the labels and throwing away receipts with out reading them a long tim ago.

it was the cv inner on the axle, and now the car is 5spd.
finally managed to blow the auto 2 weeks ago :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crzejkr

pretty much street / off road
turbo rwd
ive seen it done on a earlier gen vr4
still wondering how they did it.
but w/e its possible.
just rear subframe with all suspension gas tank some welding n it should fit the galants.

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as far as you seeing VR4s turned rear wheel drive...uh...they have the luxury of a rear differential. They lock the front differential...thats how they do it. It would take a LOT of work to get it done on your car. There is a guy here finishing up an AWD build so you can see what it takes. For you, and the way it sounds like you drive, i'd start bullet proofing the engine first. Then worry about the AWD build later. You'd hate to get all that work done converting it then blow the engine and have to sit on it for a few weeks. Just my opinion

Amen.

true to that. in these next few weeks ima hit the jards for a good candidate to build on the side and just in case this one blows on me i have spare drop in. i may sound like a dumbass for the crap i say, but i know my shit, and thats just how i treat my car. push beyond the limits and then some. ive ran this thing on anything from jet fuel to e85 or hydrogen in search of its peak N/A. ive even locked up the motor a few times while on ethanol, and blown a few hydrogen canistors. but it runs strong and healthy like you wouldnt know it. till the day a piston flies by me, and even then swap it out and make it stronger. as long as all jap and u-pick are open. but from any american to any other jap car out there... this small lil 2.4 I4 cylinder in my over proven opinion is the strongest ive come across. it spawned the evo and many others. and o god wait till i boost it.

I am still worried that YOU are going to boost.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crzejkr

true to that. in these next few weeks ima hit the jards for a good candidate to build on the side and just in case this one blows on me i have spare drop in. i may sound like a dumbass for the crap i say, but i know my shit, and thats just how i treat my car. push beyond the limits and then some. ive ran this thing on anything from jet fuel to e85 or hydrogen in search of its peak N/A. ive even locked up the motor a few times while on ethanol, and blown a few hydrogen canistors. but it runs strong and healthy like you wouldnt know it. till the day a piston flies by me, and even then swap it out and make it stronger. as long as all jap and u-pick are open. but from any american to any other jap car out there... this small lil 2.4 I4 cylinder in my over proven opinion is the strongest ive come across. it spawned the evo and many others. and o god wait till i boost it.

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You pushed a stock 4g64 beyond its limits with hydrogen, e85, and jet fuel? lmao youre an idiot.