???motor mounts???

ok heres the scoop on my 8G when i bought last january the engine hit kind of hard putting it in reverse (my car automatic) sometimes hard enough 2 shoot the car back i new a motor mount was bad so last summer i changed the front one result same problem oct 09 i started going 2 school 4 auto tech got the car up on the lift had someone else put it in drive and reverse and found that the rear (tranny) mount was bad so i changed that and still the same shit..... any ideas wat else should i be doing help help help

maybe replace all motor mounts all at once?

as far as i heard, if you replace just one with others still being shot, the new one will get damaged and torn much faster than if you replaced them all.

what kinda mounts did u replace with. stock or solids

i got stock mm nothing better then dealer parts lol

well the passenger front is good i no that maybe ill order the front and rear again and put them in at the same time

ok. id get the avid solids. thats what im getting

just replace all mounts once you have 3 motor mounts and a tranny mount

how do you remove the old ones ?

use a jack to support the motor un bolt and replace

the front is right in front not so hard just jack it up unscrew it and replace it the tranny mount is a bitch though took me a little bit but i got it and after i replaced the tranny mount i got a little play when putting it in reverse and drive it just had 2 settle but now its just doing it 4 reverse now and the passenger front is $200 i dont trusr ebay no more so i do autozone dealer or other parts stores

FYI- Just had all my mounts on my '03 V6, replaced with Prothane inserts that I got off ebay from seller "Never Enough Auto Accessories" for around $85 shipped. Since they're inserts, you have to use the factory brackets and remove the inner rubber bushings. My boy used a sawzall, big screwdriver, and hammer to do the job, but said it's much easier and faster to use an air hammer or air chisel. Also, some suggest using a vise to press the new inserts into the brackets, but he just knocked them in using a hammer.

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Originally Posted by Corey2000Galant

i got stock mm nothing better then dealer parts lol

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second that. OEM for the win!!11!!!!!1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Corey2000Galant

the front is right in front not so hard just jack it up unscrew it and replace it the tranny mount is a bitch though took me a little bit but i got it and after i replaced the tranny mount i got a little play when putting it in reverse and drive it just had 2 settle but now its just doing it 4 reverse now and the passenger front is $200 i dont trusr ebay no more so i do autozone dealer or other parts stores

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lolwut?

that's not english.

also, what's "passenger front"? as far as i know, there are four mounts: three engine and one transmission. engine mounts are front, rear, and right, or passenger side. am i wrong about this?

the passenger front is the one on the right thats the "technical" term and its really expensive

wouldnt happen to have a DIY on this on the forum? Couldnt find it useing search or browsing the How To's

no i dont but since my car still has the issue with the engine knockin when i put it in reverse when i change the front and tranny mount again ill take some pics and put them up cuz i no alot of G's have that issue but the 4 and 6 cylinders r different

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Originally Posted by ADExternal

wouldnt happen to have a DIY on this on the forum? Couldnt find it useing search or browsing the How To's

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here's how-to:

for the right engine mount: take off the upper timing belt cover, jack up the engine, undo the bolt in the mount, take off the mount, put the new one on, torque the mount to the specifications (found in the service manual, available on this forum), put the bolt in, tighten it somewhat, remove the jack, tighten to the specification, put the timing belt cover on. dun.

for the front engine mount: buy the centermember bolts, rubber collars, and spacers, jack up the engine, remove the centermember, take off the old mount, put on the new one, install the centermember (using all new hardware), tighten the mount bolt somewhat, remove the jack, tighten the bolt to the specification.

for the rear engine mount: jack up the engine, remove the mount, install the new one, tighten the bolt somewhat, remove the jack, tighten to spec.

for the transmission mount: remove the battery and some of the wiring harness bolts, jack up the engine, remove the mount bolt, remove the jack, remove the mount, install the new one, jack up the engine, put the bolt in, tighten it somewhat, remove the jack, torque the bolt down, install the battery.

dun.

as far as OEM right engine mount goes - it costs $75 plus shipping from www.oemmitsubishiparts.com

well thats good 2 no about the right mount thanks 4 the info varroa

so just yesterday i finished putting in the transmission mount and need to update the how-to:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by varroa

here's how-to:

for the transmission mount: remove the battery and some of the wiring harness bolts, jack up the engine, remove the mount bolt, remove the jack, remove the mount, install the new one, jack up the engine, put the bolt in, tighten it somewhat, remove the jack, torque the bolt down, install the battery.

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instead, read:

remove the battery and the two wiring harness bolts that go into the battery tray.
jack up the transmission.

remove following mount bolts: front roll stopper, rear roll stopper, and transmission mount bolts.

remove the cross member

lower the jack so that you can take the transmission mount off the studs.be careful not to lower it too much. also watch out not to damage the front and rear roll stoppers.

if the transmission mount's studs are damaged or rusted, replace them. to unscrew them, do one at a time like this: screw on one nut upside down (flange facing up), then one more nut normally on top of the other. allow enough thread to be grabbed by the top nut. then, use a wrench to "unscrew" the bottom nut. it will start pressing into the top nut, and eventually will start turning the stud.

when replacing the studs, screw them in by hand until they can't go anymore, and then use a vice-grip on THE TOP PORTION OF THE STUD ONLY to further screw it into the transmission. don't overtorque, obviously. just go like a 1/8 of a turn after screwing in by hand.

put on the new transmission mount, torque down the mount nuts to spec.

jack up the transmission CAREFULLY. when i was doing this, the rear roll stopper got kind of mangled because the whole engine was misaligned. jack it up until you can insert the transmission mount bolt in. tighten provisionally

install the centermember. torque all of its bolts to spec

operate the jack so that you can insert the rear and front roll stoppers' bolts in. tighten the nuts provisionally.

remove the jack.

torque all three mount bolts to spec

install battery tray

install battery.

??????

PROFIT!!!