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Get ready for some major facepalm. :orangeeek:
This is my first real hands-on work with a manual tranny, and I learn the hard way.
Do I need a flywheel adapter with the Fidanza Flywheel? I see it in most 5spd swaps, but it's not generally listed as required.
(I'm assuming it's just the ring spacer that goes over the flywheel under the bolts?)
What is its purpose? Is it simply to accommodate a different bolt length?
That ring is there to help align the clutch. It should have a hole in it, through which you stick the clutch alignment tool to center the clutch around the flywheel.
You mean a hole separate from the centerbore and 7 bolt holes?
I got the ACT 2100 clutch kit and the Fidanza Flywheel (with extended bolts). I have the alignment tool, but is the adapter required for aligning the clutch properly, or do some flywheels not need it?
I guess I just need to know if I should order that part or go without...
correct, the hole should be the exact size of the little "nipple" on the clutch alignment tool. It is directly in the middle of all the 7 bolt holes. The "nipple" of the clutch alignment tool fits directly into that spacer hole, allowing you to center the clutch. Without it, it's pretty hard, and pretty dangerous to center the clutch by eye.
A few thoughts.....
The bolts my fidanza flywheel came with were too long, I used OEM mitsu bolts from some year 2g or maybe even an EVO I cant remember. There are two different things you guys are talking about.
#1 is the pilot bushing which is a little metal cup looking thing that is in the end of the crankshaft, from the factory the car has one made for the auto trans, you need to fight that one to get it out and install one from a 5 speed 3g eclipse, the part itself is like $9 from mitsu, but taking it out is a bitch. The easiest way I have found to do it is to pack the inside with grease, find a rod that fits snug into the hole and slam it with a hammer, the force will compress the grease and force the bushing out.
#2 is the metal ring that goes between the flywheel bolts and the flywheel itself. There are two rings, one is supposed to go between the bolts and flywheel, the other between the flywheel and the crank. I never used the one between the flywheel and crank. The other one I did use, its purpose is to prevent the bolts from damaging the flywheel since the bolts are much stronger than the aluminum flywheel. It also helps since the flywheel is aluminum, when it gets hot it expands at a higher rate than the bolts would, which would damage the flywheel if the bolts were directly against it. That plate helps distribute the pressure evenly over a larger area.
Hope that helps.
Crap. The pilot bushing HAS to be replaced? Does it actually interfere with the shaft from the transmission bellhousing? I was planning to leave it in there, and it'll take more time to get that part :(
Edit: Based on Beam's post, it's just the clutch alignment tool that that bushing needs to accommodate?
I do have the steel ring from the auto flywheel, so I'll probably reuse it. I hadn't thought of the aluminum/grade 11 steel issue with the Fidanza. Good thought.
If there's extra length leftover from the Fidanza bolts (they are too long, you're right), is it a horrible idea to space them separately with individual washers? Would it be a better idea to get shorter flywheel bolts from the dealer? (the 5 I have are good, I'm gonna call the dealer today and see if I can get two more).
Final Q: does anyone know the thread of the pressure plate bolts? The ACT 2100 doesn't come with them (the ones that hold the PP to the flywheel), and I was planning to pick up some grade 9s from autozone or somewhere. I'm hoping they're just M12 1.5; worst case, I'll check it with some bolts I have lying around. Are there any special considerations in bolt grade with the aluminum flywheel?
Thanks for taking the time, dude. I'm glad there are people who know more than me :P
i wouldnt just stick random mismatched bolts on the pressure plate/flywheel. the bolts need to be the same weight since they will be spinning around at 5000 rpm.
if you order bolts from the dealer, just order all of them so you get all of the same bolts within a single batch
So, I've got the part # for the flywheel bolts, so they should be identical to the 5 I already have. If not, I'll probably just order 7, but either way I will make sure that the same hardware goes on each portion of the rotating assembly. Same goes for the PP bolts.
Thanks, guys!
Typically that bushing needs to be replaced because the hole in the center of the flywheel isnt big enough to let the auto bushing fit thru. They might have changed the flywheel design, im not sure since im using EVO stuff now.Quote:
Originally Posted by charris
Def get the pressure plate bolts from the dealer like everyone else said.
You cant space the bolts for the flywheel using washers because then the tops of the bolts hit against the clutch disc, there is very little clearance in there once everything is torqued down. But either way I see you got the right ones, so you should be good.
i actually didn't take out the bushing and i have a fridanza flywheel... it fit almost perfectly... it was a little snug... and i haven't had any problems yet lol...
yeah they might have changed it. I know when I had the 2g fidanza the bushing had to get replaced, but then I got the 3g one but already replaced the bushing before that so I wasnt sure.
aw i see good point... for a minute there i was scared to drive it lol..
Yeah, the fidanza fit fine. I got everything aligned, and the new transmission fit up perfectly. For the PP bolts, I matched the thread/length, picked up some grade 9s at the hardware store, threadlocked them, and torqued them to spec.