Clutch pedal adjustment help

So my clutch pedal dis-adjusts itself (spelling?), basically I adjust the master cylinder and lock everything with the nut, it feels great for a couple of days and then it start to engage higher and higher until it feels like shit and shifting is somewhat hard, has happened to me since the swap. Nothing is leaking fluid.

Has this happened to anyone?

Air on the lines?

Replace Master cylinder? Slave cylinder? What brand: Rockauto sells ACDelco, Aisin, Exedy, brute power, sachs?

Hope someone can help thanks in advance.

Where is said nut?

It happened to me once. I think i had it right at the tip i just screwed it a little more and tighten it real tight. Hasnt happened since.

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Originally Posted by greddy

Where is said nut?

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Its the locking nut for the master cylinder push rod

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Originally Posted by jojo03

It happened to me once. I think i had it right at the tip i just screwed it a little more and tighten it real tight. Hasnt happened since.

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In my case its screwed all the way, maybe I need an extended clutch pushrod: http://speed-source.net/?wpsc-produc...clutch-pushrod

Its weird since its screwed all the way in and tightened by the locking nut but still after a couple of days it disengages higher

Thats the rod goes into the slave cylinder though not the clutch master cylinder.

You do need a longer push rod, but try looking at your fork pivot ball and adjust that out so you have 2 or 3 washers under that, and then adjust your clutch pedal.

I dont think it would be coming off because of the push rod. Hhhmmmm. Was the master cylinder new or used?

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Originally Posted by Galantman03

You do need a longer push rod, but try looking at your fork pivot ball and adjust that out so you have 2 or 3 washers under that, and then adjust your clutch pedal.

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Aaaaahh. I didnt know that. If it happens to me again now i know what to do.

i would try to bleed it again, even though its a short run people have hard time bleeding it. make sure your using brake fluid.

maybe some second hand parts are failing on you, which clutch and flywheel are you using?

heres a video on how to properly adjust your clutch pedal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw

Oem 3g flywheel
New Exedy oem replacement

The master and slave where used, so I know I should change them.

What brand should I get, the masters range from $18- $80, and slaves from $8-$50. Oem would be around $200 for both.

That was a awesome video, Right now the bracket thingy is screwed all the way in and its higher already, I'm thinking the Slave is sucking air in or something.

Also can the pushrod be adjusted attached to the pedal? I always detach it and adjust it.

Thanks for all the answers guys

im sure an aftermarket brand should be fine but me personaly i almost always stick with oem but price is always a deciding factor, its up to you.

it is easier to spin the rod with pedal disconnected but you can do it with it connected but youll need either a very small open ened wrench to grab the hex part of the rod (i forget what size) or a small pair of channel locks or visegrips. jiggle the pedal with one hand while you turn the rod, should make it easier.

its a hard spot to get your head and hands into so be patient.

gl

Oem Master cylinder and Aisin(made in Japan) slave on their way!!

XD_01, great video. In fact that is the video that saved me from pulling my trans right after I finished my first 5-spd swap. After I did the swap I could not figure out WTF was wrong with my car and was sure it had to be a bad trans/clutch/master cylinder/etc. Finding the link to that video on TGC is what finally prompted me to become a patron in appreciation of not having to pull the trans.

Yeah if your using 3g stuff you shouldnt need a longer push rod. Its most likely a bad slave cylinder, a leaky fitting on the line or just air in the line. A trick is to use some Motul brake fluid as your clutch fluid, since the brake fluid is colored, its easier to see when the new fluid make it down to the slave to be sure that the line is fully bled.