What r the differences between W4A32 in the galant awd, and the W4A33 in the turboeclipse awd... Can they be bolt on ...
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What r the differences between W4A32 in the galant awd, and the W4A33 in the turboeclipse awd... Can they be bolt on ...
a slight variation in the gearing??? bolt into what??
I have a w4a32 in my usdm rvr. Id like to know more about the differences of a w4a32 vs a w4a33 too. Is the w4a32 compatible with 4g63's? What years? Not much info out there considering the rvr platform uses EVO 3 powertrains.
6 bolt to 6 bolt and 7 bolt to 7 bolt!!
no, not quite. dont know about the automatics, BUT, the galant gsx(awd n/a) manual trans-W5M312 is way different from the vr4 trans W5M332, the 332 gears are much stronger, but by far the biggest difference is in the final drive. if your final drive does not match up, you will toast the center diff, and if you are lucky, it will just explode, and you will need a new trans. worse case, and there have been several, the center diff locks up ALL 4 WHEELS, and it will usually do it AT SPEED, you will lose control and end up in the ditch. you GOTTA be careful with awd. i was recently hosed with a jdm trans, they said it was a NQBK, and i had a 90 day warranty. i got a WQNK, which is an RS trans, and then they denied there was a warranty. the RS trans not only has different final drive, 1-4 are close ratio, then 5th is normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by ConceptSleeper
Usually, the best advice is, if you are going to change part of your drive train, change the whole thing. It is your safest bet. Don't know much about the different auto transmissions, but I do know that there are no "gears" in an auto tranny. I'm not going to waste space here explaining the difference, but if you go to howstuffworks.com, they have a few pages that will let you know most of the details. I can't tell you if the match up will work, but if sizes are the same, your probably ok. I would still suggest gettin the whole drivetrain set up, better safe than sorry.
ok, then i would say that the CLUTCHES would probably be much stouter in the turbo than the non turbo, and the valve bodies would probably not be the same. but, if you look back at my post, i referred to the CENTER differential, and the FINAL DRIVE, which DOES have gears in them, and they are the ones that will lock up if the ratios do not match. i guarantee you that if the center diff explodes, it WILL take the trans with it.
Sorry ken, wasen't trying to dissagree with you. And deffinetly, if the final drive is off, that will lead to trouble. But being there is no gear ratio, he does have to look at the output of all of the speeds individually, unless he goes the safe way, and replaces everything (that is what I was pushing for). It would probably be a good idea to do that regardless, just to make sure everything is in good working order. "Remember folks, preventative maintenance stops a small problem now from turning into a huge problem later."
the differences between the two are primarily strength.
externally, theyre virtually identical
the nomenclature is like this.
the first letter signifies what drive it is. F is for front, R is for rear, W is for all, 4 is for part time 4WD.
the second is the number of gears. 3 for 3, 4 for 4, etc.etc.
third signifies the type, as in A for auto, M for Manual.
the forth is the series, either 20, 30, 40, or 50 for the bulk of mitsus' cars.
the last is the number in the series, and the strength increases as the digits increase. There are also other variables, such as ratios and friction plate numbers, but thats more technical than we need to get.
although the trans would bolt in, its not correct for the car.