7g take off the line????

does anyone know what the best way to get ur time in the 1/4 mile or 0-60? what technique is the best like...........double puping the gas etc. for a 7g 95 https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif

anybody??????????????????????help plzzzzzzzzzzz

There are 2 ways that I can suggest:
(Assuming you have a A/T)

1. When at the line....press on your brakes and get the RPM's to around 2 grand and when the light turns green let go of the brake and floor it.

2. 7g A/T Galants have a TCU's with "Fuzzy Logic" which basically means that the TCU adapts to your driving habits and programs itself to shift accordingly. If you want it to learn to shift "faster"...Disconnect your battery for about 5 mins or so....reconnect, and then "race" and the TCU should learn to shift faster.

aight thanks a lot ghost!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif

That shift thing will work with 98 G too right?

well i actually i just tried it and it does definitely erase how it used to drive.........Or it could just be my mind :roll:

LOL

does this disconnecting the battery really qwork?

I think you need to mess aroung with the rpm levels when you take off. For example: I started off by revving to about 4500 RPM (AWD), then slipping the clutch, the car bogged. Reved to 5000RPM, the car bogged again. 5500 RPM was just right, the car took off with minimal wheels spin and it did not bog.

What is bog? It's when the car lifts up and kindof starts going, but then slows down for a split sec. Thus you loose the precious mili seconds.

What is slipping? This is for the 5sp people only. If you want your axles, and trannies to last, its a good idea to slip the clutch, thus releasing it very slowly. This will allow for higher revs, and minimal wheelspin.

Other than that, floor it. There are other tricks you can do at the christmas tree that can shave some time and give you an advantage.

For example: If you stop as soon as the staging light turns yellow (both of them), you have about 12" of room before the clock starts cointing your 1/4 mile time. Thus by the time you are leaving the staging zone, you are moving at 3mph instead of 1mph.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(97Galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>does this disconnecting the battery really qwork?</div>

It will work, however drive on regular streets for a couple days and the shift patterns will change again and be much less aggressive like they used to be. Puling the battery resets the ecu also though, this means bad gasmileage and possible idle fluctations for a week.

Is there a fuse for AT tranny, if there is, you can just pull the fuse out for a few hours and it won't mess around with the rest of the ecu. Because from what I remember the AT ECu is separate from the main module.

You could always just pull the 3 connectors on the Tranny controller. And its more like 30 second disconect not a few hours =D

No particular order here ya go:

- Let your engine cool off by popping the hood and position your car so the hood will cast a shadow on your engine BEFORE you make any runs at the track.
- If you drive a V6, take off as many of the plastic covers off the engine as you can, all they do is help hold in the heat.
- Buy the 8lb bags of ice, they are worth the $1.50 you will spend! Put the ice on top of your intake manifold. Bring a towel if you can to mop up any condensation from the bag. When the ice starts to melt, use a key to poke a hole in a corner of the bag and drain out the water. When you put the bag back on, make sure the hole is facing UP so the water doesn't get all over your engine.
- Ideally your engine temp should be just above the C line when you start your car. By the time you finish staging it should be 3-4 lines above the C line. If your temp guage is still at the C line when you race, VTEC will NOT engage and your time will suck. (I ran a 17 something without VTEC)
- Every 5-10 minutes while your car is cooling off, start your engine for about 30 seconds so you can move the hot engine coolant away from the engine with colder coolant from the radiator.
- Avoid the water pit if possible when staging.
- Do a quick dry spin of your tires to knock off any rocks or dirt that may be sticking to them.
- In an auto: To spin your tires just hold the brake, punch the gas real quick and let off the brake.
- Staging: Slowly pull up to line while watching the Tree (The thing with all the lights in the middle) Once the first pair of yellow lights come on, slowly inch forward until the second pair of yellow lights come on. You are now staged!
- Launching: In an automatic wait until the car next to you is staged and then begin brake torquing. Use your left foot to FULLY depress your brake pedal while useing your right foot to bring the revs to around 1,800rpms or whatever works for you particular setup. There are 3 yellow lights and a green light. When the THIRD yellow light comes on, release the brake while flooring the gas peddle at the same time. If done correctly your car will start moving right as the light turns green and you will have a quick reaction time.
- If your tires peel out to much on the launch, reduce your rpms next time.
- If your engine bogs down of the line because your tires don't chirp, increase your rpms when launching.
- A small quick chirp generally gives the best results in an automatic.
- Racing in D3 or D4 makes no differences in your 1/4 mile times since 3rd is good for a very high speed and you will never go fast enough in the 1/4 mile to worry about your tranny shifting to 4th.
- Always turn off your radio, AC and any electical accessories. When racing at night, only turn on your parking lights. Always roll up your windows before staging and ALWAYS buckle up!
- When you finish a run, find a spot, pop the hood, put your bag of ice back on the intake manifold, and wait a good 30 minutes before you next run.
- If you go to a track with long lines try to push your car up to the staging area before starting it. Otherwise your engine will just heat up and your cool down period will have been wasted.
- If you drive an automatic leave your tire PSI around 30-34psi. It doesn't hurt to increase your rear tire pressure but typically auto's don't have problems with traction off the line.
- If you lower your tire pressure too much its going to increase your rolling resistance and decrease your trap speed and probably hurt your 1/4 mile time.
- Write down your launch rpm on the time slip so you can compare how your rpms affect your time.
- If you can buy a radio shack indoor outdoor thermometer that measures the humidity. After each run write down the the temp and humidity. This will help you because there are websites that can factor in temp and humidity to adjust your times so you can compare runs from different days when the temperature was different.
- Convert your times for hot and cool days:

how about double pumping at around 3000 rpm????????

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dark Anghell

the car took off with minimal wheels spin and it did not bog.

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u have wheelspin in yer awd1g....what kinda numbers r u pushing...??