i hear ya i would rather have power breaks too.
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i hear ya i would rather have power breaks too.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-05-45_228.jpg
I have some questions about the fuel tank. I have 3 Ports in the tank, fill opening, a smaller one I think vent, and then a tiny one.. That's it no emission crap on the tank. And I traced those on the stock tank and it all goes into the fuel filler neck. So if I just match lines up it should work the same correct? Since I wont have emissions, I just want the fill station to stop pumping when it its full that's all lol
Did a little work today. Getting everything installed to make the cuts on the subframe
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-34-08_161.jpg
Ran into a snag though, I don't have an engine hoist and what I was planning to use, I don't think it would hold all that weight. So what do you do when you don't have an engine hoist and really don't feel like buying one yet?
You first position the engine/tranny in the bay from underneath.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-02-39_313.jpg
then you remove your support block that are holding up the forward part of the vehicle
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...8-09-00_80.jpg
Push down on the radiator support, I kid you not maybe 20 lbs of force..
And you will bring the engine bay to the engine/tranny...
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-08-55_761.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-08-35_684.jpg
Bolt it up, jack the frame back up, and install your support block
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-14-01_122.jpg
If you just use a 2g eclispe AWD filler neck, all the hoses hook up to it like they should and everything works fine. With the 2g neck, one of the bolt holes lines up with the stock 8g filler neck bolt holes (the ones under the car), honestly, that one bolt is more than enough to hold it in, that thing weights like 2 or 3lbs. If you wanted to be extra carefule, you can weld another tab onto the neck underneath so it can utilize the other bolt hole.
Thanks for the info. Ill try to look for a new awd filler neck.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-19-53_728.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-19-42_386.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-19-30_664.jpg
Just a little update...curious if that's enough room between the floor pan and the t case tail, I have 5/8 of an inch between the two. Input?
i think Brian had to cut the whole floor out when it was all said and done,,, and werent you scared the car was gonna fall over on the blocks lol.
I hope not lol, I know he used a bfh. But idk how much the engine really moves under torque.. And nope not really, if it fell I would have been surprised lol, it was way quicker than an engine host, 5 mins to get the engine and tranny mounted lol. I'll do it again
you had the fulcrum in te right spot lol.
i know he cut the outter skin first like you have but it wasnt enough so he removed the airbag module and hammered the hell out of the area but still wasnt satisfied so i think he either spacers on the motor mounts somewhere or cut the floor out, im sure he'll chime in.
Great progress!
Coming together nicely. Keep up the good work!
I guess he cut the floor out...but I wonder if there is a difference between years in that area...Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
Quote:
Originally Posted by oakrdrs187
thanks guys! Its getting there. Did this earlier, i'm going to have to adjust the front left side for the tranny mount. This its just a mock up lol, nothing hits anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Rod
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-48-12_702.jpg
Anybody know how far the engine rocks upon WOT? Idk if I like this distance
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...6-04-16_27.jpg
Just a thought I would measure from the center of your motor mount to the perimeter of it. Then add the engine into equation itll give you the absolute play possible.
Great progress so far!
ok so, this is for stewi or goosey, are you guys running power steering? pros and cons? I have driven a truck with out power steering and it sucks when your not moving, but when your driving, its not to bad..... hmm. I cannot get the nipple on the rack to seal.. the one that you have to relocate..
working... Sucks waiting for parts... But here are some pics
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-22-44_241.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-58-42_922.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-58-36_225.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-58-22_368.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-58-05_919.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-42-39_575.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-56-30_665.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-41-18_204.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-04-50_996.jpg
Good work so far. Get the 2g filler neck, that's not even an option really and you'll know that once you see the last few photos in my bail thread. And you have to cut the floor under the shifter then fill the gaps with metal and weld. Don't forget to remove the airbag ecu before cutting(right behind the shifter under a controls)? Keep it up!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2
Powrtsteering is a good thing keep it. What do you mean to seal?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099
See ok that's what I was worried about. How much room are we talking for the tcase? I have almost 2 inches from using a bfh, from the floor to the tcase, when all four mounts are installed. For the power steering, I tried using a banjo fitting, by tapping the rack, but it wouldn't seal, so I just welded it on lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099
You should buy -6an steel weld on fittings and weld them to the ps hard line. Then run a -6 line to the pump. And wait till you get a driveshaft and you'll see how much space you really don't have there. Me and Stewi both had to do this and this wasn't cause we like destroying the car lol(or do we... :)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2
Thats what I was planning on doing. hey how far did you drop the steering rack?Quote:
Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099
Dont tell me that.... I really didn't want to but when I was in the moment I was like WHATEVER! I need this stuff to fit! lol btw i'm curious what yours and brians driveshaft length was. I wonder if we are all about the same length..Quote:
Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099
here's a tip when getting your drive shaft made; the 6 bolt flange on the eclipse rear section is interchangeable with the evo 4 bolt one; part # MR145248. (~$50)Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
saves the hassle of of having to use an adapter.
Teaser shot kind of......
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-31-43_216.jpg
very nice, I LIKE!!!
Man this car is going to be EPIC when done! Hurry up! LOL! J/K! Dont rush just get it done right ;)
Seems like everyone lately is throwing some type of purple in or on their G's Lol! Looks good.
purple is the new Matte Black lol
HOLY CRAP!! that looks crisp, did you have a shop paint the bay?
That shit looks dope but I'm gonna have to step up my purpleness lol
Thanks Guys
haha, nope, primed, based and cleared is all done by me. I'm going to put one more coat of clear on the bay, the brake booster isn't cleared yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
purple is where it's at guys....
havent u people learned already, purple is royalty
Purple is dope, go Ravens!
More completed today...
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-24-03_716.jpg
These are cleared up, 3 runs I have to sand... http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-24-11_938.jpg
You stole it from me -_- not happy haha. Least I know it looks good. Though I may change the color scheme
Looks good! I'm sticking to purple
So much win!
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-28-15_651.jpg
Just need a Cdi box.
manual boost controller vs an electronic boost controller, pros and cons of each?
Manual easiest to adjust though not as accrurate. Electronic harder to wire up, need to reflash to change boost setting unless using duel maps. More accurate