i love it
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i love it
ive basically had the 5 speed swap for a few months as it was at my buddies junkyard, and now i feel its acually time to go pay for it and pick it up. so ill be getting it by the end of next week. then gotta get the new clutch, new clutch fork, pivot ball, shifter bushings and flywheel
going with an ACT 2100 6 puck unsprung and a fidanza 8.5 lb flywheel
Hey man if youre interested in a flywheel lmk. Its a gripforce lightweight flywheel wih 400 miles on it. check my FS thread and LMK!
My advice...?
Don't get a riveted hub on your daily driver. It WILL chatter and have harsh engagement.
4 puck, 6 puck, all fine... Just make sure they are sprung for a street car.
ok so here is an update. picked up the 1g prop valve to finish the rear disc swap parts so that will be happening within the next 2 weeks
the cylinder head is being disassembled and cleaned and planed as we speak at the machine shop and i have all the parts for that now all gaskets and parts etc
full turbo setup ready to go just need to pick up a wideband and im good to go
and today i just picked up the whole 5 speed swap today. everything needed all bolts fittings clips everything. i have a lightweight flywheel and i am picking up an ACT 2100 this weekend and i want to have it in by the end of june.
i have all the parts but no time.. man i need a daily lol
no comments :(
must not believe i have all that.. going to snapp pics right now as im finally home
finally some pics!!!!!
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i did the rear disc swap sunday. man i wish i did it years ago. big thanks to DOHCstunr for the calipers, MKO for the backing plates and R1Concepts for the rotors and pads. 5 speed is next on the to do list
you better cause 5 speed is bad ass only in traffic it sucks
Chris your garage is looking like mine. Def do 5spd first cause like me you would be so tempted to put your foot down if you did turbo and 5spd at same time. After you break in the clutch toss on the turbo.
I may have the parts on by end of summer, they cut my hours at work and I havent been able to finish parts on either turbo or 5spd. To finish 5spd parts will cost me like 400-500 more probably and to finish turbo parts will cose me another 600 plus i the $300 boom slang harnes. So about another 1300 and everything should be in :)
steve i have everything for the 5 speed. flywheel has like 400 miles on it and the clutch disc has 1500 and looks new so i really dont have to break in much at all. im just wating on everything so that i have enough backups shit in case something goes wrong or needs fixing. i have 2 clutches, an ACT 2100 unrevised pressure plate with revised clutch disc and then a daiken pp with a luk clutch and i have the lightweight flywheel and the stock one both in mint shape. just need the time to swap it. i was gonna have Al (bronxbombr) swap it just need money to have him do it
Yea that flywheel is pretty much brand spanking new. The F1 clutch held up to some nice power before we blew my gf's car up. Ebay turbo wastegate didnt open so we spiked boost to 30 PSI and BOOM TINK TINK TINK!.. BUT MAN DID IT PULL HARD! I run that same flywheel in the 7g. It takes some getting used to for street driving. Taking off is a little more complicated with the lightweight flywheels than the stockers. However if you delete the balance shafts and use that flywheel your 2.4 will rev wicked fast or atleast mine does ;-). OH.. Ill give you a heads up on your turbo build because i ran into these issue with mine.
1. remove the driver side radiator fan if youre going to put that turbo in the car with the j-pipe on
2. if you buy the ebay tubular o2 housing and 2g down pipe be prepared to have it cut and weld it (i recommend you buy this). It hits the oil pan because of the flange angle on the O2 housing. I had to cut the down pipe about 3'' down from the flange where it connects to the O2 housing and extend it about 2'' or so.
3. Down pipe is also too short
4. If you run the ebay O2 housing use their gasket with some copper sealer. Their flanges arent perfectly flat so youll need the thickness of their gasket to make up for that. OEM is too slim and will leak. Trust me i know. I was able to stick a feeleer gauge between the mating surfaces when i torqued them down.
5. Down pipe needs to be modified to fit the hangers on the 7g. There is 3/8'' rods that come out on the DP on both sides, the passenger side hit on the front sub frame. To fix this i cut a chunk out of the rod and welded it back together for strength.
6. If youre running a GM MAF sensor and not doing the recirculation and dont want to relocate your battery PM me and ill find the link to the K&N air filter that i bought that is a PERFECT fit for the turbo (i have a small 16g 2 1/4 inlet). Its a 5x3'' filter with an offset inlet so it doesnt hit the block or anything like that. I spent hours measuring and all that to see what works and thats the ONLY ONE that i can find.
7. Dont listen to the dsm guys or honda guys about not running coolant lines to that turbo. It was designed to have coolant so run coolant in that bitch. Use the throttle body coolant lines to feed the turbo and just eliminate them on the TB.
8. The 2g DENSO O2 sensor is a PERFECT fit if you elimate the harness extension from the OEM 7g sensor. The reason i say DENSO is because DENSO is OEM sensor. Rock auto has them for 45 bucks.
9. The oil return tube does stretch. You will find that its too short for the motor because the 2.4 has a higher deck height than the 4g63 (hence the reason for the down pipe issue). Bolt it to the oil pan first without a gasket then tighten it to the turbo. Trust me, this works. I couldnt tell you how many places i went to try and find oil proof hose that will fit that pipe if you cut it and i had no luck. Its designed to have that flex part in it so it works.
10. If youre not good at soldering. Learn it now. Its pretty easy once you do it a few times.
11. If you are going to use the stock maf sensor then good luck getting an aftermarket turbo pipe to work.
12. There is a guy on the full throttle site selling a maf translator gen2 for 150 brand new. I would get that to be honest with you so you dont have a headache fitting a turbo pipe and relocating your battery.
Thats about it for now. Trust me YOU WILL RUN INTO PROBLEMS. It took me 4 months for a reason. I worked little by little and i did it the right way. I dont want to go back and do shit again. So do not cheap out on your first round.
You should buy my manifold and 02 housing :)
what manifold do you have?
i have an evo 3 o2 housing and know that will be a headache and i also have a 2g and 1g shousing if need be. i drove my buddies 30r 1g gsx with the 8lb flywheel and a 6 puck unsprung.. that was a bitch and chattered like hell but im fine with the lightweight it wont be too bad. i will run coolant lines and turbo time it. reason i am putting this all off and saving up is my buddy is bored with the 30r and i may pick it up and make this a beast and finish the other motor as well and get a daily. prolly wont get it but ill be ready to if i can
Well good luck. The 5 speed swap is pretty easy. The only thing i had a major issue with was the shift cables. I cut the auto ones in the engine bay with some bolt cutters so that made it it a bit easier but it was still a mother fucker to put the 5 speed ones in.
well Al has swapped a lot including a local guy for me so i think ill just drop it off and let him have fun as i dont have the time. also, i have seths old downpipe which i believe has hangers ans shit designed for the 7g ill have to check with him on that but it looks like it
Hafe ss cast manifold and sbr ss o2 housing w/open dump.
nah im sticking with my setup. ported 2g mani evo 3 O2 and if i upgrade i will be going with a 30 or 35r and it will run a TiAL 44mm off the O2 housing,, wastegates on manifolds dont look clean to me.
i will post pics of the 30r setup on the 1g if i ever take some