TAKE OUT ALL THE WINDOWS!!!!!! all of em! lol
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TAKE OUT ALL THE WINDOWS!!!!!! all of em! lol
^Lmfao!! That would work... I think we will start off with slitting all four tires since its quiet,then break all headlights and tails,All windows with some f&*ked up denting on the body and were OUT!!
So lets go passed the bullshit and get back to moding some more..
So i ended up switching my CXRacing radiator with a Mitshimoto one. I wanted to start doing a better set-up on the Talon. This is going to be a street/strip and im not going crazy like huge turbo and straight up ridiculous upgrades. Gonna keep it simple and quick
So I started draining the antifreeze and got to work.
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/6454/cimg6983.jpghttp://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1745/cimg6984.jpg
Since the a/c is gone imma do something different with the thermostat housing,water pipe,radiator,and water pump.
Took the thermostat housing off and got something different from Jayracing
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/8803/cimg6987.jpg
This has a 16AN threaded flange on it
Also a alternator relocation kit. With the new cooling route im trying the alternator would just be in the way. Once this kits on I will be able to have the alternator sitting in the back firewall side instead of being close to the radiator
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5594/cimg6988.jpghttp://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9964/cimg6989.jpg
Little test fit with a fitting
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9830/cimg6990f.jpghttp://img23.imageshack.us/img23/6969/cimg6992n.jpg
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6391/cimg6993.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1618/cimg6994l.jpg
Some JDM side markers for the galant. Later on im gonna do some body work with my dad to give it that flush look with the fenders.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/4610/cimg7019.jpg
Alternator relocation kits on :) Very easy install
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/8228/cimg7028.jpg
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/3788/cimg7029.jpg
Got some EARL and Russell fittings for this water set up.Basicaully the water pump leads to the water pipe going towards the left side under the engine bay.This water pipe is right in back of the turbo and manifold which gets extremely hot making this water pipe hot. So what im going to do is block off the water pipe and put a 6AN fitting leading into the turbo's coolant port.Now im going to have the water go straight from the radiator to the water pumps front. You can see what I mean in the pics below. The other turbo port is going to come from the new housing ontop where the thermostat used to be. I had my boy weld and thread on this that way I would be able to still use my coolant sensors. The radiator,water pump and housing wil be using 16AN fittings and for the turbo ports im using 6AN.
Now I know your wondering where I would be able to check or fill in the antifreeze. Im going to have this welded onto the radiator.Im also going to relocate where the fluid travels in the bottom of the radiator.
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/5417/cimg7062.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7454/cimg7063.jpg
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/7836/cimg7061.jpg
Mishimoto radiator and slim fans
Notice that the bottom flow port is located on the right side of the picture.Im going to have that cut off and blocked while it will be relocated on the opposite side where the water pump is
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9015/cimg7065.jpg
http://img574.imageshack.us/img574/4109/cimg7066.jpg
Nice work
WOW very nice.
^ Thanks guys :)
By the way Galantfan88 I really like your build! Was it simple installing with the Evo 8 ECU? Im thinking about going with that and Speed Density
Hey you know how to make the JDM sidemarkers flush right?
^ im not sure I was either gonna get to cutting or maybe use the fender part from the Mirage..How did you do it?
woooooo Mishimotoooooo!!! You should also take a look at there thermostat if you wanna up grade that
Being that im doing the Evo 8 head swap now im going to have to take out my CP Pistons 86.5mm and Eagle rods. Rods can be used but im going with a better much stronger choice. I would have a problem using my pistons being that this heads valves are large and a DOHC. My new choice for Pistons and Rods
Wiseco Pistons kit 87mm 10:1 ( with upgraded wrist pins )
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/9374/cimg7896.jpg
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/29/cimg7897.jpg
Rods of choice
Manley Turbo Tuff connecting rods
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/9937/cimg7958.jpg
I ended up going with ACL Racing Main,Thrust,and Rod bearing aswell
2.4L Cometic head gasket
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/705/cimg7953.jpg
Now the motor has been takin out and all these new parts along with the motor and evo 8 head has been brought to the machine shop for some work
I bought the cheapest two mirage fenders I could find, I got them from a local body part supply place, they are aftermarket they were about $70 for the pair on fenders. I cut out the marker lamp "pocket" and left about 1.5" around it, then cut the same area out of the galant fender and welded it in. You will still need to do some body work once its all welded and smoothed since the metal is so thin, it will warp a bit, so some body filler is needed. I had one advantage when I did mine though, I had a pair of OEM JDM VR4 fenders sitting right next to me so I was able to get the exact measurements to make sure I put the marker lamp in the exact same place as the JDM one. If you need me to, I can re-measure my car to give you exact measurements.
Here are the only two pics I could find.....
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83...ork2008005.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83...ork2008001.jpg
So wait, your taking the bottom end back apart again?
Which model CP pistons did you have? Do you have a piston spec sheet for them? Also what is the headgasket thickness? Many aftermarket pistons have larger than normal valve pockets to begin with, secondly, the piston top on a 4G64 sits "in the hole" as they say, essentially meaning the top of the piston never gets above the deck of the block and actually sits below the deck. I cant remember exactly but im pretty sure my pistons sat about 3.5mm's below the deck, when combined with a cometic gasket that im sure is significantly thicker than stock, you have a good amount more valve clearance.
In regards to you new setup, how quickly do you plan on going AWD? That 10:1 comp ratio is gonna spool that turbo FAST, faster than you want in a FWD car. Hell my 9:1 comp ratio spools my turbo faster than I would like. You may have to de-tune your fuel & timing maps to force it to spool a little slower.
Ya man if you could do that for me that would be great. They look real good!
The main reason why im redoing the bottom end is because i want to make sure that the motor will support the power I want to be making in the future.. The eagle rods are good but i wanted better. The pistons I wanted to go alittle bigger and I had to upgrade the wrist pin anyways.
As for the ratio when the evo transmission goes on I want to start my awd project because I really dont feel like having all that work done on the transmission just to keep it fwd. I liked the ratio because of the more power on less boost.
Some more upgrades for the Talon. ;)
My new turbo set-up that im going with
Forced Performance Racing manifold
http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/5795/cimg7059.jpg
Megan o2 housing with open dump
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7886/cimg7057.jpg
Forced Performance 68HTA Turbo Ported ( Billet 16g! )
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/6933/cimg7101.jpg
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/8002/cimg7102.jpg
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/4402/cimg7104k.jpg
I also went with the FP top oil feed line from the oil filter housing,all new crush rings and fittings,And the FP blue oil return line.
What do you mean by "bigger pistons" Like larger bore? So now the block needs to be re-machined, re-honed, hot tanked, all over again. I can understand the rods, but the rods can at least be replaced without having to re-machine the block and all. The CP pistons have proven themselves to 800+whp. I personally use wiseco, only because its all that was available when I built my setup without going full custom and waiting 8-10 weeks.
In regard to the more power on less boost, its true up to a point. With a higher compression ratio you typically need to run higher octane fuel or meth injection to compensate once you get to a certain point. So lets say all other things remaining constant, on a 9:1 motor, you may make 400whp at 20psi on 93 octane, on the 10:1 you may be able to make the same power at 18psi which is great, but once you get to a certain boost level, the compression ratio isnt gonna be factor because your going to need higher octane fuel or meth injection to prevent it from knocking (detonating) That turbo you have there is most efficient in the higher boost levels since thats what it was designed for, so typically you would want to run more boost since thats what the setup is designed for. Its not the end of the world either way, I would just hate to see you waste money on swapping out the pistons for little performance gain.
^ I definitly understand what your saying. Thanks for all the info its most appreciated! Would I be able to use these pistons if I wanted to use this car for street driven?
sure, you can use anything, but what im saying is your going to need race gas or meth injection on a 10:1 motor once you start boosting past about 22-25psi, you can always retard timing and add fuel to offset this in the tune, but doing that will hurt the spool up time.