Yes, as long as the V6 car had the single piston front calipers.
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Yes, as long as the V6 car had the single piston front calipers.
Not for the 2003. Aftermarket(random check) all show the same part number. Mitsubishi shows the same price, so I'm guessing OEM is the same as well. These are for the fronts, if I remember right, the 4cyl doesn't come from the factory with rear rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by tony2face
I don't think the 2003 ever came with dual pistons, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Rod
Correct. only 1999 and early 2000 V6 came with dual pistonQuote:
Originally Posted by tamim13
Thanks for the info guys. I was searching online and it seemed to be the same size, but i posted here to be sure.
Going to order some now.
I was talking about the entire Generation. He doesn't have to limit the rotors to a 2003 model year car.
How hard is it to take out the abs sensors from the knuckle? I know you have to remove the little bolt, but aren't the sensors magnetic?
Also I'm changing out my control arms, already done with passenger side but on the drivers side I can't get the ball joint to go into the knuckle, anybody have any tips?
I've broken abs sensors everytime I tried taking them out.
As far as your second issue goes, I just replaced my ball joints last week and all I can suggest is trying to pull the knuckle outwards to get a straight angle for the ball joint to slide into. Hopefully that helps.
The knuckle has cut in it. Last time this happened I pryed it open a hair, plus a little wd40. Went right in.
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Did that on the passengers side but I didn't think it worked cause I didn't see it move that's why I didn't try it on the drivers side, but I guess it does work.
How come the 6g72 from the eclipse is rated at 205 hp while the 6g72 from the galant only makes 195. Just wondering since it has the same compression ratio as well being the exact same engine. Im talking about the gt model and not the gts which has the butterfly valves. It just seems odd that there would be a 10 hp difference on the exact same engine. Is it detuned in the galant? The eclipse also gets supposedly the same gas mileage as well.
1. What's the best way to store an engine "outside", it will be in a small shed. If my friend is correct there is a 6g75 galant that was ran into the back of at the junkyard.
2. Should I just pass up the engine and buy one in 3 years when my pockets are ready to do the engine build/swap?
^ That's a tough one (the last question).
I would either
A) Buy the engine, and over said 3 year period get her built with spare/project money
or
B) Save the money in case something pups up (knock on wood, but you never know), and pick up the engine and build it in one go when funds are right after the 3 years.
I would personally save the money and engine for a later date; but my financial situation is fubar atm, so that's just me.
buy it, coat it with oil, wrap it in a giant huge space bag, vacuum pack that sucker. as long as you have oil and most of the air out, you should get not rust if the cylinder walls and what not are correctly coatedQuote:
Originally Posted by Black8GV6
thanks for the replys, if I have time tomorrow I'll swing by the yard to see if the engine is there and to see the price of it. I have never seen a 6g75 in any of the junkyards I go to so this will be like seeing a unicorn if it's there and I'll probably get it.
went to the junkyard today, no 6g75, my friend is a douche. Anyways the good news is if I find an engine the price is $275 + $75 core charge, great price if I find one. Also I put back on my stock intake manifold and my P0300 went away and the throttle repsonse is normal, YAY!
If you were using the 72 tb on the 74 manifold, it causes the egr valve to stay open. That creates the P0300 because it'll misfire in the low rpms.
Didn't really see any topics on the issue, rather post here than make a new thread.
Anyway, the Galant doesn't see much use these days. I changed the oil in it back in November, it's only seen 1000 miles since. I had to jump start it a few days ago since it sat for most of the wonderfully cold weather LI (and everybody else) has been getting. Went over the fluids after I got it running and battery charged, oil still looks good (at the full line and a dark goldish color) power steering, coolant all look good, but the trans fluid looks rather dirty. It's not low, but definitely could use a change. Thing is, it doesn't have shifting issues. No slipping or hesitating.
Still, I planned on changing it. To really make sure to get it fresh, I wanted to drain and refill 3 times. Basically, drain out the fluid and refill, drive for about two weeks and repeat this another two times. Anybody else done this? I'm planning on doing the same with the Accord, it's where I got the idea from (accord forums)
Still need to find out the fill capacity of the auto, I'm only finding the entire capacity of the trans, not the drain and refill capacity. Heh, funny I work at a Mitsu dealership now and I'm still asking here for that info. Still, 8th gen Galants rarely come to this dealership as most don't "need" to come here for maintenance and repairs. Still, I'm hunting down the refill capacity while I'm not busy.
Here are the instructions from the Mitsubishi service manual -
1. Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which
connects the transaxle and the oil cooler (inside the
radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the
discharge.
CAUTION
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is
started. If the A/T fluid has all drained out before then, the
engine should be stopped at that point.
Discharge volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
2. Start the engine and let the A/T fluid drain out.
Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling
3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle case
to drain the A/T fluid.
Discharge volume: Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts)
4. Install the drain plug with a new gasket, and tighten it to the
specified torque.
Tightening torque: 32 2 N⋅m (24 1 ft-lb)
CAUTION
Stop pouring if the full volume of A/T fluid cannot be
poured in.
5. Pour new A/T fluid in through the oil filter tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 5.5 dm3 (5.8 quarts)
6. Repeat the procedure in Step 2. (to pump out the rest of the
contaminated A/T fluid)
7. Pour the new A/T fluid in through the oil filler tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
NOTE: Check the A/T fluid for contamination or burnt smell.
If fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 6 and 7
before proceeding to Step 8.
8. Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step 1
above, and firmly replace the dipstick.
9. Start the engine and run it at idle for one to two minutes.
10.Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move
it to the "N" position.
11.Check that the A/T fluid level is at the "COLD" mark on the
dipstick. If the level is lower than this, pour in more A/T fluid.
12.Drive the vehicle until the A/T fluid temperature rises to the
normal temperature [70 −80C (158 −176F)], and then
check the A/T fluid level again. The A/T fluid level must be at
the "HOT" mark.
NOTE: The A/T fluid temperature is measured with scan tool
(MUT-II).
NOTE: The "COLD" level is for reference only; the "HOT"
level should be regarded as the standard level.
NOTE: If it takes some amount of time until the A/T fluid
reaches its normal operating temperature [70 −80C (158 -
176F)], check the A/T fluid level by referring to the left
diagram.
13.Firmly insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube.
If you want pictures etc, there was a tutorial created by pinoyesv6 a while ago -
http://web.archive.org/web/200601141...s/TrannyFlush/
More information on the forum -
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...r-tranny-Fluid
Awesome, thanks for that. Now I just need to wait until it's not freakin' 35*F outside.
Hey isnt there supose to be a one-way vent here?
This is behind the rear bumper on the passanger side
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...4-16101050.jpg
And aren't there supose to be plastic caps in these holes? behind the rear quarter panel under the car
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...4-16101029.jpg
^ 1st pic yeah, it's kinda a one way vent, 2nd pic It's not a cap but a rubber hose for draining.
ait thanks man...
does anybody have a part number for eather one of the items i need or a term to search for on ebay. cant seem to find it
OR is anybody parting out a 8g?
HEY!!! need answers quick
I'm in the middle of painting my headlight housing black and i was wondering for those who have done this if you heated the old glue/putty and put the headlight back to gether that way or if you used addistional glue / putty
ps. its almost 12pm the car needs to be out of the garage by tomorow and the glue that i haveis white not black like i thought
There should be enough glue from when you pulled them apart, just reheat, connect the pieces, then use like a big C-clamp with cloth to keep pressure so it seals good
Thanks for the tips wouldnt have tought of useing c grips :)
Does anyone know if the locking mechanism for the drivers door is the same for jdm and usdm?
Not in the mood to tear into my usdm to check it out
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I'm almost certain they are
Ok. Are the 99-01 and the 02-03 headlights are the same? (I looked google, here....)
Im currently a 01. I want a 03front.
I found headlight (crystal black housing) tht say 02-03. And others say 99-03.
Thz guys in advance.
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by boosting90
Hate to a pain. Just dont want to waste money. Im sorry if i am.
So i can buy the "02-03headlights" and keep my grill(01)?
Really appreciate.
I'm not 100% sure, but I thought the 99-01 headlights were chrome housing finish, while the 02-03 were black housing finish? The fitment is the same though, so you can keep your grill. But your requirement of going with with the 03 front would require you to change the grill, if you go with the 03 bumper cover as well. Remember the 03 has a nose between the two grills, while the 99-01 has the single grill with a bumper cover without a nose.Quote:
Originally Posted by boosting90
Awesome..... thx guys. Just tryin to stand out here in orlando fl. Since is all about hondas.... i did had one lol but i want some different mfrom others. Thx
And if i go jdm front bumper. Do i have too go jdm headlight????
Just undecide what front i want.
Does any one know where can i get the vrg front lip? I love the lip on the 03bumper. :-)
Alright dont want to start a new thread about this since these problem dont realy bug me thaaat much but here i go;
When i back up into my parking spot ( i go from making a full left turn and hit reverse and make a full right turn) there is a litle squeaky noise from the steering i think its from the steering rack, does not happen if i do a full right turn and then a full left turn and only happens when i hit reverse between these two turns. and yes there is enough fluid on the power steering resivor it does have a small leak tho (the only leak my 140k mile galant has) i mean ive gotten to a point where i only check on it when i do oil changes and that stuff usually full
another problem my exhaust is hitting my rear swaybar at low rpm (stock exhaust btw and stock swaybar) and it makes a rumbling noise and i rev the car a little the noise goes away, haven't realy looked that much into this one im suspecting a broken motor mount but then again this is almost as far away from motor mount u could be.
please if anyone has any tips or tricks please reply and sorry for my bad grammar
these problems have bin going on for months never realy bug me that much unless someone in the passanger seat has the nerve to point them out ( I need ejector seats )
That squeak could be your power steering belt, also check your tie rods (thinking worst case). Finally, how old are your tires?
Check the hangers and the rubber from hanger-to chassis mounts. That also suspiciously sounds like a loose heat shield to me, what engine do you have?
2.4l I4 my tires are only about a year old lots of tread left the one back tire is fkn old tho its on its last breath and waiting to get changed out
Yeah, I'd check the power steering pump/belt. And the exhaust could be a hanger or the rubber on the hanger. Or a heat shield somewhere.
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Does any part of the gauge cluster besides the odometer use a 74 bulb? My key ring isn't lighting properly but the led is good, so now I have one to spare. Already have the odom, cig lighter, hvac, and ash tray led equipped. Anywhere else I can use a 74 bulb?
Thanks
Help! im trying to order of of ebay.co.uk and i want to be sure im ordering for the jdm not the usdm car what is the body trim called EA???? or something like that...
BTW the registrastion says EA0 but i get zero results for that.
trying to order stuff like tie rod ends and bearing