-
I've just used narrow crappy tires for that, basically the same thing. Also if you push them and hold them at their limits you'll get smoother as a driver, which will make you faster.
I know the Rivals like to hydroplane, and with the lack of weight in the car, plus the width of the tire leads to the car being quite the hair raising experience to drive when its wet.
-
Ive heard good things about rivals but im really happy with the star specs, if these get to worn next year im gonna buy another set to finish out the 2014 season. After that ill get another set of wheels with r-comps, either r888's or nt01's if they haven't been discontinued or if something better comes out and keep the starspecs for rainy days,,, well atleast that's the plan.
I was wondering what springs rates do you have on your JIC's?
-
Got the car weighed today at the track, with me at 190lbs and just over a 1/4 tank of sunocos finest car came in at 2910.
I was pretty surprised. So with out me its 2720.
-
I'm trying to figure out what wheels I want to go with once I start trying to get into larger sizes, since going big will be the advantage I have over the honda's in my class. I plan to go to R-Compounds as well once I chord this set of Rivals. Not sure what I'll do for a rain tire just yet.
I run 9k fronts and 8k rears, I know Greddy likes the stiffer rear rates, some of the Evo guys run 14k rears, but with my set up I just can't see that do anything other than make the car excessively tailhappy. With my set up I've already acquired a neutral handling feel, possibly because my rear swaybar is just that much stiffer, but I can't see going to more than 10k rear springs as it sits now.
-
RA1s at full tread make amazing wet tires and they stay sticky to the cords. As for rates, Im at 10k 12K at this point with a big rear sway bar and I really like it. The car is loose at the rear @ the limit however Ive found that this is the fastest way to get a fwd car around a track not to mention feeding it more power straightens it out nicely.
-
yea I got a pair of new thicker sway bars that ive been waiting to install, maybe ill install the rear first and see how it goes.
-
Everything went well at the last event for the season a couple of weeks ago. Had lots of fun and the weather was great, the car did well too with the exception of two things. My radiator cap started to leak a little so water started getting everywhere and also Ive had some oil accumulating on top of the tranny ever since July. It would make its way down below the tranny then go downstream under the driver side frame rails when the air would pass under it and just make complete mess. At first I thought it was the catch can so I got a lil wrist warmer to cover the filter but everything all ways seemed dry. I finally figured it though its a bad seal on the gear selector housing but it took me forever to realize it lol.
heres a couple of videos from my last session
short clip
http://vimeo.com/79444801
longer clip
http://vimeo.com/79430714
-
Damn that looks like so much fun man!
-
I certainly agree that getting the back-end slightly loose helps with turn in and rotation through the corner. However I have noticed that when the back end gets too lose the slide causes the rear wheels to scrub off speed and can lead to traction issues exiting slower corners. So it comes down to maintaining balance and matching your preferences and talents as a driver.
I've been using the Suspension Techniques rear swaybar, which one's are you guys using?
I haven't seen many issue's with the selector shaft seals leaking, however I did have an issue a while back with the sealing surface between the shift selector housing and the transmission case. That was just a matter of rushing to get the transmission reassembled and not using enough RTV.
-
That's exactly where mines is leaking from but Ive never worked on any trannys so Im gonna take it to my local dsm shop to re-seal it. I don't want to experiment on mines lol.
As far as the sway bars I think the brand name is RM, ill measure it the next time I go to the garage but Im gonna start with the rear first then see what it does. I emailed JIC about getting coils with higher spring rates and Im also gonna contact Drive Shaft Shop to see if they have any cure for torque steer.
-
What kind if diff do you have in there?
-
-
My son and I loved the videos! Every turn he was like "uh ohhh!" He asked me about the shifter ("Daddy, what's that?"), he's never seen a manual in action lol. I'ma have to bring him to a race someday.
-
If you ever wanna go to Summit Point its only 1.5 hour drive.
-
If the 4 cyl transmission is anything like the V6, resealing the shift selector assembly is super easy. All the assembly does is manipulate the shift forks, there are no detent balls or anything to surprise you when you take it apart. With the transmission in neutral undo the 4 screws and it pulls right out, reassembly is the same, just put it back together. I'll find the F5M42 manual if you want to look at that to be sure.
Edit: They are identical, put the selector in neutral and it just comes out like I said.
-
that sounds easy then im gonna go for it, thanks!
-
I tried that before and it won't come out I wanted to take the shifter arms and powder coat them since they're rusty. I read somewhere that there a bolt that needs to come off that holds the assembly in place. I will have to find the pic since I won't be near my car anytime soon.
Sent from my Galaxy S4
-
Talking about this piece here?
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps77d452df.jpg
It pulled right out like 6g72gearhead mentioned.
-
Yeah. I guess mine was really on there then.
Sent from my Galaxy S4
-
Must be a difference between v6 and I4 because I remember having to pull a bolt out before I could get my shift select housing out too.