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the wear on the housing itself does not look bad. What is the gear mesh clearance? go with oem composite or multilayer. Cometic isnt all that great. And this is coming from someone that has used them before. Do they make a kevlar belt for the 64/63 hybrid?
No kevlar belt for the hybrid but it is possible to machine the tensioner system a little bit and use a 4g63 belt. I'll take the pump down to the machine shop and see what he says about it.
Is there an OEM gasket for an 87mm bore that will handle turbo pressures reliably?
How much boost do you plan to run? Im sure the cometic gasket would work for you but man im telling you they arent all that great. Arp studs are pretty good though ;-)
I'm planning on running 22psi on the 16g for now. Any more than that and it is just hot air if I remember right. At some point my buddy and I both want to pick up Holset turbos at which point I'd pump it up a bit. I don't think I'll ever go real big with the turbo. I want to keep it quick spooling and streetable.
can't speak for the 64 dohc,
but I'm running 26psi daily on a stock mitsu composite, and stock 6 bolt headstuds.
Been doing this for well over a year daily driven.
Of course 7.8:1 compression and a 50trim make this possible.
i looked at the 63t and 64 dohc head gaskets at the dealer when i picked up my new dohc head gasket and they are the same just the larger bore for the 64. i have seen people run high boost on the 63t head gaskets so id figure you could run a good bit. i would use ARP head studs and that whole deal and i am using a stock 64 dohc timing belt and stock 94 gs cam gears. i plan on building another motor and then with that setuo run 16-20psi. as a matter of fact john, i want to pick up your old GS motor from matt and build itQuote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
you pretty much have to run arp's.
You cannot re-use the factory head studs because they are stretch to torque studs. Once they've been stretched once, they simply cannot provide accurate, or consistant torque specs. Not to mention if you mill the head, the old stud will be stretched so it won't even be able to clamp down the same as before.
Parts Ordered:
ARP Head Studs: $91 - eBay
BC Valve Springs: $82.62 - Amazon
Gasket Set: $52
I am getting a Gates timing/balance belt locally - $80
Pistons were $335
Rods $152
Nice. Ive read on dsmtuners were a dude had an issue with the BC springs. It broke but BC did help the guy out. When i build my 6 bolt im going with stock bottom end, 272 cams, bc springs, reduced diameter valves with 1mm overbore. BLAH BLAH BLAH.. Anyways congrats on winning car of the month. You deserve it man and post up some pics of the build yo!
9 AM: Finished my last final for the semester and went out to the garage.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/001.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/003.jpg
Notice the oil leaking everywhere:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ipsh/005-1.jpg
Yuck! I think I'll be fixing the PCV system up so this can't ever happen again.
12 Noon:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/009.jpg
It's already on the way to my machine shop in the back of my buddy Rick's tool truck. I sent the oil pump along too to see what my machinist says. The rest of the engine bay will get emptied out next week or the following week. I've got a house project that will take priority if it starts next week.
o-o I see some turbo malfunction down there. I had the same thing happening to my old s16g. how in the world sis that j-pipe clear the fans. I have the same one and I had to use the slim fans.
Keep us posted
Nah, the turbo is fine. The grime is from the valve cover leaking and the oil in the intake is from the PCV valve not working right. I never had any issues with the J-pipe clearing. Those are the stock Galant fans and radiator. Maybe it is a little different design than the one you are using.
Man i love building engines... I cant wait to get mine build.. But for now im building my gf's 2g.. Anyways. good luck cleaning all that oil up. I went to walley world and got some of the cheap foaming engine cleaner and a stiff house broom and saturated my engine bay down when the motor was out.
wow just saw this and the progress is amazing to say the least but what about the evo 4 4g63 would this swap also being awd is possible or is this wishfull thinking.............. good work so farQuote:
Originally Posted by akamikeymo
Wrong orientation. The Evo 1-3 used the same orientation as DSM's and 6g-7g Galants. 4-9 used the 4G63 rotated 180* and would not work in this car (at least as a bolt-in.)
If you want a holset let me know man, I have a great connection directly with getting these for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
How much can you get a hx35 for?
Thanks, I'll hit you up when I've got the funds. I'm already spending more than I should just building the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by SPD_FRK
Hi
Your Project was a good one and I liked it very much, sence I wanted to do a similar one on my car . you Did it on a Mitsubishi galant 7G 4Cylinder Turbo Engine ; I want to do it on a Mitsubishi Galant 7G 6Cylander Twin Turbo Engine.
I have the AWD Gearbox (W5M33) but I dont have the rear axel Parts . where can I get these parts ?
Tanx
Check the first page ;) I responded to your PM about it as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kavosh_h