correction the United States has the same socket but America the continent does not just like Iceland has the same sockets but Europe does not.... *smug face*Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
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correction the United States has the same socket but America the continent does not just like Iceland has the same sockets but Europe does not.... *smug face*Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
Jared I You had calculate that shit! Lol!
Im just saying metric just makes more sense iMO.
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So! Lol
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Metric over standard any day. Growing up overseas and dealing with metric and then coming here and switch to standard was very tough. And then we deal with metric for my engineering degree. Why the hell do we even use standard if higher education uses metric to give people engineering degrees lol
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lol, over here im required to learn the standard, they dont put alot of effort into it but they want you to understand it and be able to work with it
Because America!
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'Merica! Fuck yea!
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What would you guys do?
Broke the bold that holds the K-frame (front subframe) its a 12mm bolt,
Now i have drilled trough it with a 8.5mm drill bit and i tried to reverse tap thread it( idk what i trying to say but i think yall get the drift)
anyways nothing is working it seems like ill either have to make a 10mm thread and use a 10mm bolt which doesn't sound all that appealing
or i could cut a hole in the car and try to do something with that maybe a nut on the other end
Wondering if you guys have any ideas or opinions
picz for pleasure
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0-19162614.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...0-19162645.jpg
Use a torch worse case?
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well being that were out of gas. and even if we had gas i recon that i would defiantly ruin the threads then?
Possibly, but you could either
1) use a longer bolt with a nut, no need for threads
2) tap and dye set
No clue if that's a "good" solution, heat is usually the last thing you wanna try, but if you absolutely need it fixed soon that's a sure fire fix (no pun intended)
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And by tap/dye I mean melt it out, bore it out so the hole is the same all around, then thread it
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yeah tap and die is apperantly waht ive bin trying to do all day broken 8 drill bits i think a longer bolt and nut is the only way... but i dont like cuting into the body :088: thanks for your input tho
Drill it out bigger until you get to 11mm and then tap it for 12mm.
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If it is breaking drill bits left and right you are doing something wrong...but that should be an incredibly hard part so you may be able to melt the bolt without melting the threads, idk though...I rarely have to use heat :/
I'm with galantman on this one
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When you drill have another person spray some sort of oil in the hole (like pb blaster or something) it'll help keep the heat lower and reduce risk of breaking...and don't push a lot on it, let the drill bit do the work...takes longer but doesn't break bits as easily
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Use thread cutting oil
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let me clearify drill bits are not breaking because of heat its in most cases because of the drill bit catching on and snapping... granted im useing a magnatic drill machine but that neither here nor there...
Oil and not pushing will still fix that problem. Pushing too hard is what causes it to grab (oil will cause it to slide/cut easier without grabbing), heating up will cause it to break easier (heat makes it weaker, same concept as when you heat up metal in order to bend it)
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Easiest way to understand the heating up thing on a molecular level is to look up a video of when you heat up a wire...the heat actually causes the molecules to separate...if you pass electricity through a wire and heat it enough (glowing orange hot) at a point the wire obviously starts to droop...keep heating and it will actually shrink up (very rapidly). This is because the molecules rearrange themselves because they are so spaced out they loose "connection" with one another
Very very cool to see, almost like "magic"
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The oldest trains we have at my job were built by Rohr Industries (they do aerospace now) in Winder, GA in the 70's, those all use standard fasteners as did a lot of American stuff from back then, so I'm very used to 3/8", 7/16" and so on. However metric is so much easier. And also, 00 AWG isn't the biggest we use at work, we actually have 0000 AWG (labeled as 4/0 AWG) wires that carry the third rail power from the collector shoes to the rest of the train. Those wires can handle 1000 volts, 1000 amps without breaking a sweat (that's a lot of juice, we run 900 amp fuses on the train).
I'd seen 1/0 all over the place when looking into upgrading my system and 2/0 in a few places but nothing bigger than that without actually calling it by a measurement (like how 2/0 would be 9mm or .36") but just did a quick google searched, pulled up a wiki link, and I'm seeing 4/0 on here XD .46"...that's crazy lol
hey wanna make sure this is correct before I buy them, am I under the correct vehicle (Mitsubishi>2005>lancer>2.0l l4 turbocharged>brake/wheelhub>rotor>) and if so which should I get:
http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/...borockauto.jpg
Mitsubishi>2005>lancer>2.0l l4 turbocharged>brake/wheelhub>rotor>economy...will those work for brembo upgrade or should I go down to the "high performance/heavy duty" and get these:
http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/...orockauto2.jpg
CAN YOU MAKE THE ARROWS BIGGER?!! cant see them all that well lolQuote:
Originally Posted by demond0d5
It was in paint roflmao
can't be all that picky XD
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Why would you need different hubs?
Just a little fyi, Lancer hub assemblies will not work.
Not hubs, rotors...and they don't have an "evo" option on rockauto...is there a better place to get rotors?
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I no longer want to go without my cruise control so can someone help me? When I bought the car it had no radio and the harness that connects to the radio had been cut and individually wrapped...then I let a idiot take a look and see if he could fix it...long story short he took the tape off all the wires and left them exposed...I go to drive off and then I hear strange noises from the speakers...and in an instant my speedometer stopped working, which caused my odometer to stop working and then a few days later when I tried to use the cruise control I realized it wasn't working either... where should I start? Speed sensor maybe? New cluster? Fuses? Wires?
fuses irc the fuse for the reverse lights is also for the speedo check if ure reverse lights work or just you know check all them fuses
Does anyone know if the usdm seering rack is the same as the jdm one? I apparently need a 2001 or newer v6 seering rack for the vr4 found one usdm but its 4 hours away
Well I th8nk I just bought my self a usdm v6 steering rack for a jdm galant..and noo it doesn't fit
Waist of money and waist of 2 days
what's the deal with these connectors or what ever they are i traced a obdII connector wire to one of these and no i dont know what to do...
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...1-26194621.jpg
Can anyone answer this
I'm petty sure those ends are during the manufacturing process. To test the wires and connections ect.
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Anyone have any tips on removing the gas tank from the 8G? I know it has a small hole because when I top off I can smell raw gas, as the needle drops the smell subsides. Look under and theres what appears as wet spots. Wann find the hole and patch it, jb weld it or something.
I want to drop it with while disconnecting the least amount of thise hoses, if the evap shit needs to come down the its coming too.
Havent droped the tank on my G but ive take tanks from plenty of other cars and the one and only tip i can give u is if its empty it aint fkn empty and its going to be heavy as fk and not to mention awkward to hold so be ready with atleast TWO jacks to lower it. because u dont want to drop it and brake something or tear one of the evap lines
Drop the tank with the filler neck still attached. All the evap crap is bolted to the tank (well for my 03 it was) just make sure all connectors are off including supply and return line. Also on E you have about 2.5 gallons left, not heavy but awkward.
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Thanks guys. This thing is causing code p0440 to pop up.
I do want to have some gas in it to check for that leak.
Fortunately I have the luxury (thanks to Navid at Kpowered in Palm Springs, youtube that civic when you have free tine) of using a lift and transmission jack to lower it so it'll make things very easy.
It wasn't bad, I had to unhook two larger (girthy) evap lines to get it in the position it is in the pic. A helpful hit when put it back up, loosen up all the bolts that hold the metal straps, made it very easy to put back up by myself, my tank was almost empty when I dropped it, not too heavy since it was almost empty, just awkard. I would have some one help you if theres a lot of gas in the tank. Really long pliers helped too.Quote:
Originally Posted by oakrdrs187
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/...1d7f50b0_b.jpg
Question.
What's the difference between GTZ control arms and non-GTZ?
Now onto the research I did. I went to the OEM Mitsubishi Parts website and started shuffling through the years and models.
Something that hit as obvious is that the 4cyl differs from the V6 Except on the 8Gb"s (2002-03), I came to find the 4cyl 8GB shares the same part number MR554375 and MR554376 as any year GTZ (they label it sport) with the exclusion a year 99 and 2000. A 99 GTZ has the same part number (MR369791 and MR369792) as a 2000 V6 (non GTZ), and the 2000 GTZ has its own part number (MR369795 and MR369796) not found on any other year regardless of Trim or engine.
If you're still with me after all that, what sets these arms apart aside from the bushing that has the bracket on it in newer models and the one with just a bushing that re-uses the bracket?
Reason I ask is because I look up aftermarket arms and they give the same number for GTZ and regular V6. I realize the GTZ sits lower, but it was my understanding it was just in the coil springs. If anyone can, please enlighten.